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ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/acrossmeridiansfOOfran 


AGKOSS 

THE  MEEIDIANS 


AND 


FRAGMENTARY  LETTERS 


BY 

HAEEIET  E.  EEAI^CLS 


31Uu0tratet) 


1887 


TO 

MY  HUSBAND 

JOHN  M.  FRANCIS, 

WITH  WHOM  THE  AUTHOE  HAS  SHAKED 
THE  PLEASUEES  OF  HEE 
TEAVELS. 


VII 


1M{  EFAT  E. 

This  coiiiijilatioii  lias  been  made  from  a series  of 
rambling’  and  Imi'riedly  written  letters  addressed 
to  my  daug’liter,  Alice  Havemeyer,  and  to  ray 
son,  Oliarles  S.  Francis,  and  wliicli  Avere  not  in- 
tended for  pidillcation.  This  fact  will  explain 
their  fragmentary  cliaracter  and  other  defloien- 
cies.  I am  only  induced  to  pnblisli  the  collection 
as  a souA^enir  for  ti'iends.  My  experienc'es  in  life 
and  ti-aA^el  in  foreign  connti’ies  embrace  a space 
of  more  than  seven  years,  including  four  different 
periods.  Having  only  imperfect  data  of  my  first 
journey  to  Europe,  and  not  suffielent  memoranda 
of  iny  tAvo  years’  residence  in  Athens  to  render 
complete  the  continuity  of  my  lettei’s,  I have 
only  utilized  those  of  more  recent  date.  The 
illustrations  lierein  presented  are  from  photo- 
graphs obtained  in  the  places  Avhere  the  originals 
Avere  taken. 

IT.  E.  K. 

Auf^ust,  1887. 


IX' 


CONTEXTS. 


PART  I. 

Chapter  I’age 

I.  Boston,  Denver,  Salt  Lake  City 1 

II,  Over  the  Alkali  Plains  to  San  Francisco — Across 

THE  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains — Yosemite  Val- 
ley— Excursions  in  the  Vicinity  of  San  Francisco.  ^ 7 

III.  Voyage  across  the  Pacific  Ocean ‘20 

IV.  Japan;  Excursions  — Novel  Sights  — The  People 

— The  Inland  Sea 27 

V.  China:  Chinese  Customs — Cemeteries — Shanghai  . . 47 

VI.  Hong  Kong — Canton — Sedan-chairs — Boat-life  on 

THE  Pearl  River 56 

VII.  A Voyage  from  Hong  Kong  to  Ceylon — A Ty- 
phoon— Saigon — Singapore 71 

VIII.  Point  de  Galle  — Tropical  Vegetation — Curious 

Scenes 79 

IX.  A Voyage  to  Calcutta  — Glimpses  at  Madras 
— Native  Nurses,  called  Amas — Going  Ashore 

— Magicians 84 

X.  Calcutta — The  Garden  of  Eden  — The  Great  Ban- 
yan Tree — Visit  to  a Zenana — Cashmere  Shawls.  89 


XI 


Chapter 


Page 


XI.  Benaees — The  Mecca  of  Hindooism — Snake-chakm- 
EES — An  Excuesion  on  the  Ganges  Eivee — Bud- 
dhist Temples 101 

XII.  Agea — The  Taje-Mehalle 108 

XIII.  Delhi — Long  Teains  of  Camels — The  Manufactuee 

OF  India  Shawls 115 

XIV.  Allahabad 128 

XV.  Allahabad  to  Bombay  by  Bail — Bombay — Funeeal 

Pyees 126 

XVI.  Feom  Bombay  to  Suez — A Pleasant  Sea  Voyage  . . 132 

XVII.  Caieo — Donkey  Excuesions — Palaces — A Visit  to 

THE  Peincess  Mansooe  — Eomantic  Stoey  of  a 

Little  Egyptian  Giel 136 

XVIII.  Athens  — Maes’  Hill — Baebecues 152 

XIX.  Feom  Athens  to  Venice — Milan — An  Excuesion  on 

Lake  Como : 159- 

>x.  Paeis  and  London 164 

XXL  Leave  England — Voyage  to  New  Yoek — Besume  of 

A Yeae’s  Teavel 167 

PART  II. 

I.  Aceoss  the  Atlantic  on  the  Steamship  (r(dUa  . . .173 

II.  London — Paihs — Madeid  177 

III.  Lisbon  and  Some  of  Its  Envieons 182 

IV.  CiNTEA  194 

V.  Lisbon  200 

VI.  CiNTEA — The  Palacio  da  Pena 206 

VII.  Lisbon — Abelheiea — Thanksgiving  Day 209 


XII 


Chapter 


Page 


VIII.  Earthquake  and  Carnival  in  Lisbon ‘214 

IX.  Lisbon — Religious  Processions 220 

X.  Oporto — The  North  of  Portugal 224 

XI.  Braga — The  Pilgrimage  Chapels  of  the  Church 

OF  THE  Bom  Jesus  228 

XII.  Adieu  to  Lisbon — Arrival  in  Hamburg 233 

XIII.  Vienna — Ring  Strasse — Court  Balls  237 

XIV.  Vienna — “Coffees” — Flower  Exhibition— Foot-wash- 

ing Ceremony  249 

XV.  Vienna — Stadt  Park — The  Prater 254 

XVI.  Hungary — Budapest — National  Exhibition  . . . . 257 

XVII.  Bohemia— Carlsbad — Mineral  Springs 263 

XVIII.  Vienna — Birthdays — Departure  from  Vienna  . . . 271 

XIX.  Hamburg — Lubeck— Niendorf — Anchovy  Fishing  . . 273 

XX.  Bremen — The  Rathhaus  Keller 277 

XXI.  London — Exhibition  of  Machinery — A Troy  Laundry 

Machine — Hatfield  House 2§8 

XXII.  Stratford-on-Avon  — Shottery 294 

XXIII.  Ramsgate — London — Windsor  Castle 297 


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1 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


No.  H 


9 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


I 


From  Boston  to  San  B^r  an  cisco. 


OSTON,  June  17,  1875.  To-day  has  been  a field  day  in 


Boston.  The  centennial  of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill 
lias  been  most  fittingly  celebrated.  The  weather  has  been 
perfect ; fresh  breezes  from  the  sea  and  a partially  obscured 
sun  modifying  and  making  comfortable  the  summer’s  heat. 
Everybody  was  satisfied.  Indeed,  it  has  been  the  grandest 
gala-day  Boston  has  ever  known.  There  were  miles  of  mili- 
tary in  procession,  the  ceremonies  were  appropriate  to  the 
day,  and  many  distinguished  guests  from  various  parts  of  the 
Union  were  present.  You  will  have  the  details  of  the  day’s 
events  in  to-morrow’s  journals,  and  lietter  told  l>y  them  than 
by  me.  The  celeliration  was  well  worthy  the  occasion,  and 
will  lie  rememhered  many  years  by  those  who  witnessed  it. 
You  know  when  we  left  home  on  the  24th  of  May,  three 
weeks  ago,  we  expected  to  sail  for  Europe  two  days  there- 
after, but  on  our  way  to  New  York  we  changed  our  plans 
very  materially,  and,  as  you  have  already  heard,  we  have 
decided  to  go  to  California,  and  we  may  extend  our  travels 


2 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


to  the  westward  until  we  shall  have  reached  our  starting- 
point,  Troy.  My  next  letter  will  probably  he  VTitten  on  the 
wing  somewhere  lietween  this  point  and  San  Francisco. 


ENVER,  June  28,  1875.  Our  itinerary  from  Boston  to 


Denver  is  the  following;  We  left  Boston  on  the  18th 
inst..  New  York  on  the  21st,  Syracuse  on  the  22d,and  Chicago 
on  the  25th,  and  arrived  this  morning  in  Denver  l)y  way  of 
Cheyenne.  So  far  wo  have  had  a delightful  journey,  and 
everything  has  been  most  comfortalile,  with  the  exception 
of  disturl)ed  slee])  the  first  night  on  the  train.  However,  one 
soon  lieconies  accustomed  to  the  coustant  jar  and  motion  of 
rail  travel,  and  only  a day  or  two  is  required  for  adaptation 
to  the  new  condition  of  tilings,  and  then  one  liegins  to  write 
letters,  and  (h*op  postals  along  the  route  to  friends  at  home. 
The  train  stops  three  times  a day  for  refreshments,  allowing 
twenty-five  minutes  for  each  meal,  sufficient  time  to  do 
justice  to  the  fare  offered.  The  provisions  are  very  good. 
There  is  jilenty  of  fresh  milk,  which  the  traveler  prefers  to 
the  tea  or  coffee  ]»rovided  at  these  stopping-places.  The 
first  meal  eaten  after  leaving  Chicago  is  a sample  of  all  the 
rest  until  within  a day’s  ride  of  San  Francisco,  when  venders 
of  fresh  fruit  appear,  making  a welcome  addition  to  the  fare 
after  four  days’  repetition  of  the  same  menu. 

G oing  from  Cheyenne  to  Denver,  a distance  of  one  hundred 
and  six  miles,  we  crossed  a part  of  the  American  desert. 
On  one  long  stretch  of  the  w"ay  of  fifty  miles  or  more  we 
passed  hut  one  house,  and  that  w^as  occupied  by  raih’oad 
employes.  The  land  in  this  region  is  low,  sandy,  and  barren. 
From  time  to  time  we  saw  in  the  distance  “ claim  cabins,” 


FKOM  BOSTON  TO  SAN  FKANCISCO. 


3 


built  on  one-lmndred-aiid-sixty-acre  grants.  After  crossing 
this  arid  part  of  tlie  conntiy,  the  land  showed  some  signs  of 
vegetation,  and  we  came  upon  thousands  of  cattle  and  many 
antelopes  feeding  on  little  tufts  of  grass  growing  among  the 
rocks  and  on  small  spots  of  aralde  land.  We  passed  tlirongli 
the  valley  of  the  Platte  River,  where  also  the  soil  is  arid, 
and  hut  little  vegetation  is  seen.  Irrigation  is  necessary  to 
get  a product  from  the  soil.  Denver  is  irrigated  from  the 
Platte  River,  the  water  of  which  is  conducted  into  the  streets 
by  little  channels  along  the  curbstones.  The  city  is  built  on 
a range  of  bluffs  five  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty-seven 
feet  above  the  sea,  at  the  Ijeginning  of  the  foot-hills  lead- 
ing up  to  Pike’s  Peak.  Denver  has  a population  of  four- 
teen thousand,  with  flattering  prosi)ects  of  a rapid  growth. 
There  is  a canal  or  artificial  river,  one  mile  long,  just  outside 
the  city,  called  the  “ Inland  Sea,”  where  a pretty  miniature 
steamer  makes  frequent  trips.  The  great  altitude,  and  clear 
dry  atmosphere  of  Denver  offer  a very  desirable  climate  to 
a certain  class  of  invalids.  We  have  made  an  excursion  to 
Idaho  Springs,  forty  miles  from  Denver,  by  a narrow-gauge 
raih’oad  running  through  Clear  Creek  Caiion.  The  road  was 
built  at  a cost  of  $30,000  a mile.  All  along  the  canon  we  saw 
Chinamen  engaged  in  placer-mining,  who  were  standing  knee- 
deep  in  water  washing  the  sand  carried  there  by  mountain 
torrents.  The  Chinamen  are  satisfied  to  work  for  one  dollar 
a day.  A grain  or  particle  of  gold  is  worth  one  cent.  If  a 
laborer  finds  one  hundred  particles,  he  is  thought  to  liave 
done  a good  day’s  work.  At  the  office  of  the  mining  com- 
pany we  saw  a brick  of  pure  silver  worth  $1100,  and  a lump 
of  refined  gold  valued  at  $1700.  The  scenery  in  the  canon 
is  wonderfidly  wild  and  picturesque.  There  is  here  a con- 
stant disclosure  of  such  new  phases  of  the  earth’s  surface  as 


4 


ACROSS  THE  MEEIDIAKS. 


I never  di'eanied  existed.  A long  letter  would  not  contain 
an  adequate  description  of  all  the  things  we  saw  on  this 
excursion.  In  two  days  we  leave  Denver  to  accomplish 
another  stretch  on  the  California  route,  and  without  donht 
we  shall  see  other  points  of  interest  of  which  to  write  yon. 

* 

SALT  Lake  City,  July  5, 1875.  We  made  a detonr  of  two 
hours  l)y  rail  from  the  direct  California  i*onte  to  visit 
the  capital  city  of  the  Mormons.  Soniehody  selected  a rich 
and  arable  tract  of  land  when  this  site  was  chosen  on  which 
to  hnild  a new  Jerusalem.  Salt  Lake  City  nestles  quietly  in 
a fertile  valley  at  the  base  of  a range  of  snow-capped  mount- 
ains. By  irrigation  the  soil  is  rendered  extremely  pro- 
ductive. Little  purling  rills  of  snow-water  from  the  nionnt- 
ains  traverse  the  streets  in  all  directions.  We  attended  a 
Sunday  service  at  the  Tal)ernacle  yesterday.  There  were 
jiresent  prohalily  not  less  than  five  thousand  people,  this 
nnnil)er  equaling  the  capacity  of  the  building.  Two-thirds 
of  the  audience  were  women  and  chikh'en.  Elder  John 
Taylor,  one  of  the  twelve  apostles,  delivered  an  impromptu 
discourse.  He  to(A  no  text.  He  exhorted  the  people  to  he 
faithful  to  the  good  cause  which  they  had  espoused,  and 
assured  them  that  there  were  many  evidences  of  the  pros- 
perity of  the  Mormon  Zion  in  Utah  and  elsewhere.  He 
admsed  them  to  go  on  with  the  work  more  courageously 
than  ever.  The  sermon  was  short.  Much  of  the  service  con- 
sisted of  congregational  singing  led  by  a choir  of  a hundred 
voices,  accompanied,  if  not  by  the  largest,  certainly  by  the 
second  largest  organ  in  the  country.  The  comninnion  ser- 
vice is  celebrated  every  Sunday.  The  twelve  apostles  lireak 


FEOM  BOSTON  TO  SAN  BBANCISCO. 


the  l)rcad,  and  serve  it  with  tlie  water,  tlie  latter  sidrsti- 
tuting  wine.  The  water  is  di|)]>ed  from  two  large  casks 
standing  hy  the  altar.  The  entire  Mormon  congregation, 
including  the  children,  jmTtake  of  the  commnnion.  The 
women,  especially  the  elder  ones,  were  attired  in  the  oddest 
styles  of  clothing  iniaginal)le,  their  dresses  and  ))onnets 
l)eing  exceedingly  old-fashioned,  to  say  the  least,  and  repre- 
senting tlie  styles  of  many  European  coimtries,  while  some  of 
the  younger  women  were  gayly  dressed  in  New  York  fashions, 
although  somewhat  antiquated.  The  Mormons  jilace  great 
stress  on  the  rites  of  liaptism  and  communion.  They  allow 
themselves  to  he  baptized  frequently,  and  also  baptize  the 
living  for  the  dead.  Under  certain  cii*cumstances  they  per- 
mit themselves  to  lie  “sealed”  in  matrimony  to  the  dead, 
in  which  case  they  do  not  marry  with  the  living.  Brigham 
Young,  the  patriarch  of  the  Mormons,  has  eighteen  wives 
(perhaps  not  all  of  them  now  in  good  standing  Avith  the 
president),  and  forty-nine  living  children.  We  Avere  intro- 
duced to  several  of  his  AviA^es  and  children.  One  of  his  sons, 
a line  and  promising  young  man,  has  just  graduated  from 
tVest  Point.  The  Mormons  are  liuilding  a temple  here, 
Avhicli  is  to  he  their  “ Holy  of  Holies.”  It  is  of  gray  granite, 
ninety-nine  hy  one  hundred  and  eighty-six  feet.  Wlien 
finished  it  aauU  he  a magnificent  sfructure.  The  country 
surrounding  Salt  Lake  City  is  made  very  productive  hy  irri- 
gation, and  is  really  a garden  of  wheat  and  of  other  grains. 

Yesterday,  the  4th  of  July,  Ave  made  a very  jileasant 
excursion  OA^er  the  Utah  Southern  Kaih'oad  to  York  City, 
seventy-five  miles  distant,  liy  invitation  of  Brigham  Young. 
We  AA^ere  accompanied  hy  several  Mormon  gentlemen,  AA-ith 
their  Avives  and  daugliters.  Elder  Taylor,  with  three  of  his 
AviA^es,  was  among  the  number ; also  President  Young,  with 


6 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


several  of  liis  wives,  besides  a number  of  the  sons  and 
daughters  of  the  different  branches  of  the  “ Bee  Hive.” 
The  road  runs  through  the  valley  of  the  River  Jordan.  The 
country  is  barren  for  want  of  irrigation,  but  will  become 
very  productive  when  water  shall  have  been  procured.  We 
made  some  acquaintances  among  the  Mormon  women.  They 
appear  satisfied  in  their  homes,  and  believe  there  is  a great 
future  for  their  sect. 


II 


Sa)),  Francisco  and  the  Yosemife  V<dleij. 

SAN  Francisco,  July  9,  1875.  At  last,  after  being  nearly 
three  weeks  en  route  from  New  York,  we  have  arrived 
at  the  “Grolden  Gate  City”  on  the  Pacific  coast,  three  thou- 
sand three  hundred  miles  from  the  metropolis  on  the  Atlan- 
tic coast.  From  Salt  Lake  City  to  San  Francisco  is  a 
journey  of  fifty  hours,  most  of  wliich  time  is  occupied  in 
crossing  the  Alkali  Plains.  We  brought  with  us  a good 
outer  coating  of  their  burning  dust,  besides  swallowing  a 
considerable  quantity  of  it.  But  a bath,  a good  dinner,  and 
a night  of  refreshing  sleep  made  us  “ as  good  as  new.”  We 
shall  start  in  a few  days  for  the  Yosemite  Valley,  and  shall 
not  attempt  to  “ do  ” the  city  until  our  return.  We  find  the 
climate  here  bracing  and  refreshing,  the  nights  are  cool,  but 
the  air  under  the  rays  of  the  midday  sun  is  hot.  San 
Francisco  is  more  like  a city  of  continental  Europe  than 
London,  and  one  hears  more  foreign  dialects  here  than  in 
that  great  capital. 

The  scenery  along  the  pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  through 
which  the  railroad  runs,  is  majestic  even  to  sublimity.  For 
hours  we  rode  through  natural  openings  in  the  mountains  of 
rocks  utihzed  by  the  skillful  engineer  for  the  path  of  the 
steam-horse,  and  in  which  the  ravines  between  the  mount- 
ains are  spanned  by  trestle-bridges.  Sometimes  we  went 

7 


8 


ACKOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


curving  around  a rocky  projection,  on  one  side  of  wliich  was 
a precipice  thousands  of  feet  deep,  on  the  other  an  acclivity 
hundreds  of  feet  higli.  Again  we  were  shooting  through  a 
narrow  pass,  the  sides  of  which  were  far  too  high  to  get  even 
a glimpse  of  the  summits  of  the  rugged  mountains.  The 
scenery  at  and  near  the  Di\dde  is  grandly  imposing;  there 
were  mountains  of  huge  rocks,  deep  gorges,  and  eminences 
of  sharp,  smoothly  cut  stone,  variegated  with  all  the  colors 
of  the  rainbow,  seemingly  the  handiwork  of  a nation  of 
giants.  Some  of  tlie  pealcs  in  the  Sierras  are  ten  thousand 
feet  high.  Traveling  for  hours  through  such  an  inhospitable 
country,  we  seemed  to  l>e  daringly  encroaching  on  Nature’s 
})rivate  domain.  It  is  a wonderful  work  of  l)old  engineer- 
ing, this  pathway  of  travel  and  commerce  through  tlie  Sierra 
Nevadas.  An  open  platform  car  is  attached  to  the  train, 
affording  the  travelei*  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  pass. 
Before  reaching  the  Divide  we  passed  through  twenty  miles 
of  snow-sheds.  We  had  aii  artist  on  tlie  train  who  was 
almost  lieside  liimself  in  enthusiastic  admiration  of  the 
scenery.  1 must  confess  that  I was  like^vise  affected  liy  the 
sul)lime  grandeur  of  these  mighty  works  of  Nature.  At 
last  we  came  into  the  Sacramento  Valley.  Here  we  returned 
to  our  easy-chairs  in  the  inclosed  car,  remarking  the  con- 
trast lietween  the  soft  green  grass  of  tlie  Sacramento  Valley 
and  the  mighty  rocks  and  mountains  of  the  Sierras. 

«§• 


Yosemite  Valley,  July  IG,  1875.  Here  we  are  in  this  most 
wonderful  mountain  gorge,  the  Yosemite  Valley,  so 
named  liy  the  Indians.  It  should  he  called  the  Valley  of 
Wonders.  We  were  six  hours  in  traveling  the  distance  of 


SAN  FEANCISCO  AND  THE  YOSE^IITE  YAI.LEY, 


9 


twenty-six  miles  tVom  Clark’s  Station,  over  a road  curving 
along  the  sides  of  the  nioiintains  and  zigzaging  np  and  down 
the  hills.  We  are  one  Imndred  miles  away  from  the  railroad. 
It  is  a fatiguing  ride  of  two  days  to  get  into  this  valley. 
From  Merced,  whei’e  we  left  the  railroad  for  Clark’s  Station, 
is  a distance  of  seventy-hve  miles.  W e liad  seven  relays  of 
horses,  five  in  each  team,  to  firing  ns — ten  passengers — over 
the  road.  We  were  twelve  hours  in  acc()ni])lisliing  the  dis- 
tance. We  entered  the  valley  yesterday  at  noon  from  a higli 
point  in  a monntain  gap  opposite  the  El  C<(pif(Ut  rock.  I 
find  no  fitting  words  to  describe  as  I wish  the  scenery  of  this 
wonderfnl  valley,  or  what  looks  like  a vast  abyss.  It  is  ten 
miles  long  and  one-aml-a-half  wide,  the  crystal-i)nre  water 
of  the  Merced  River  miming  through  it.  A delightful  shade 
of  fine  old  trees  and  a lovely  carpet  of  green  grass  border 
the  shores  of  the  river.  Just  opposite  onr  hotel,  across  the 
river,  are  the  Yosemite  Falls,  tnmliling  and  foaming  down  a 
preci])ice  of  two  tlionsand  six  Imndred  and  tliirty-fonr  feet. 
The  descent  of  wmter  is  only  broken  twice ; tlie  first  fall  is 
one  tlionsand  six  Imndred  feet ; the  second  four  Imndred 
and  tliirty-foiir  feet ; and  the  last  fall  is  six  hundred  feet. 
The  WTiter  at  each  leap  gathers  an  increased  niomentiim,  and 
finally  plunges  with  niiicli  foaming  and  terrific  roaring  into 
a basin,  from  which  it  quietly  rniis  into  the  river. 

This  morning  at  six  o’clock  (all  excursions  here  liegiii  at 
that  hour,  for  a long  day  is  required  to  make  any  one  of 
them)  we  went  to  see  Mirror  Lake.  It  is  a lieaiitifnl  sight 
to  see  the  reflection  of  the  early  morning  sun  in  the  water, 
coming  as  it  does  over  a clilf  four  thousand  nine  Imndred 
and  ninety  feet  high.  The  lake  is  only  a mile  long  and 
about  as  broad,  and  forty-eight  feet  deep  at  its  deepest  part. 
It  is  encircled  by  high  monntains,  and  the  water  is  so  trail- 


10 


ACEOSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


qiiil  and  clear  that  the  adjacent  scenery  is  mirrored  in  it 
with  all  the  naturalness  of  the  real.  In  the  water  on  one 
side  of  the  lake  the  reflection  of  the  mountain’s  rocky  side 
seems  to  picture  a line  of  family  washing  hung  out  to  dry, 
and  a washerwoman  with  arms  akimho  stanchng  near  it. 
Looking  into  the  lake,  yon  can  see  yourself  as  clearly 
reflected  as  in  the  finest  mirror.  Excursions  in  the  vicinity 
are  made  on  horseback.  The  women  in  Bloomer  costnme 
I'ide  astride  for  safety.  The  monntain  roads  are  very  precip- 
itous in  places,  and  one  cannot  he  too  careful  while  riding 
along  them.  I have  made  only  one  horsel)a-ck  excursion,  and 
that  was  to  the  Maraposa  grove  of  hig  trees  near  Clark’s 
station  ; an  excursion  very  nnich  like  the  ascent  of  Montiui- 
verf  at  Ghaniouni,  which  yon  will  donl)tless  rememher  from 
the  extreme  fatigue  we  all  suffered  in  crossing  the  Mer 
(/e  Glace  and  the  descent  of  the  Mauvais  Pas.  dust  think 
of  riding  thi'ongh  the  trunk  of  a tree,  tlie  opening  in  it  hav- 
ing lieen  made  hy  1 aiming  out  the  heart,  and  tlie  tree  still 
standing,  and  the  foliage  just  as  green  and  fresh  at  its  top 
as  ever  it  was ! There  are  in  this  grove  of  mammoth  trees 
one  hundred  and  sixty  measuring  from  sixteen  to  thirty-two 
feet  in  diameter,  and  in  height  from  two  hundred  and  fifty 
to  three  hundred  feet.  These  monarchs  of  the  forest  are 
red  cedars.  Many  of  the  larger  trees  have  sign-boards  on 
them  hearing  the  names  given  them.  For  instance:  In  one 
group  stand  the  Fallen  Monarch,  the  Grizzly  Giant,  the  Twin 
Brothers,  the  General  Grant,  and  the  Old  Hooker.  The 
hotels  in  the  valley  are  small  two-story  frame  builcUngs  with 
cloth  partitions,  and  are  furnished  only  with  the  most  indis- 
pensable things.  Milk,  fruit,  vegetables,  fish,  and  eggs  are 
to  be  found  here ; but  flour,  dried  meats,  and  all  other  pro- 


SAN  FEANCISCO  AND  THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


11 


visions  come  from  San  Francisco,  and  are  “packed  in”  on 
nndeback.  California  ladies  visiting  the  valley  don  the 
Bloomer  costnme  for  convenience  of  climhing  the  mount- 
ain paths,  and  for  horset)ack  riding.  The  service  of  the 
hotels  is  done  l)y  Chinamen,  even  to  performing  the  duties 
of  chanil)ermaids  and  nurses.  One  day  we  went  to  the  Cas- 
cade Fall,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  W.,  of  Syracuse,  accompanying  us. 
The  water  descends  l)y  a series  of  falls  or  cascades  over  a 
ledge  of  rocks  three  hundred  feet  high,  the  last  fall  having 
a sheer  descent  of  a liimdred  feet.  The  highest  ])eak  in  this 
range  of  mountains  is  called  Cloud’s  Rest.  It  is  seven  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  valley,  and  almost  vertical.  The  ascent 
of  it  is  one  of  the  l^reakneck  undertakings  of  tlie  irrepres- 
sil)le  tourist.  The  Bridal  Veil  Fall  is  the  lovehest  of  water- 
falls imaginahle.  It  is  within  walking  distance  of  the  hotels, 
and  consequently  is  visited  repeatedly  during  a sojourn  of  a 
few  days  in  the  valley.  The  water  of  the  Bridal  Veil  grace- 
fully descends  in  one  unhroken  sheet  over  a rocky  precipice 
of  nine  hundred  and  forty  feet.  The  Inchans  named  the 
tall  Po-ho-no,  meaning,  in  the  Indian  language,  the  Spirit  of 
the  Evil  Wind;  l)ut  this  is  a misnomer,  evident  from  its 
beauty.  The  white  man  has  named  it  the  Bridal  Veil, 
because  of  the  reseml)lance  of  the  foamy  tall  to  a bride’s 
veil.  The  water  comes  half-way  down  the  distance  smooth 
as  a sheet  of  glass;  then  it  sj)i*eads  out  in  a fan-like  fah, 
and  descends  al)out  two  hundred  feet,  when  it  assumes  tlie 
appearance  of  a white,  flowing  gossamer  veil,  which  the 
faintest  zephyr  can  sway  from  side  to  side.  Sometimes  the 
spray  is  thrown  outward  a long  distance,  hut  the  water 
never  loses  its  compact  and  fabric-like  appearance.  Just 
before  falhiig  into  the  basin  the  sunlight  strikes  upon  the 


12 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


water  and  forms  a beautiful  and  clearly  defined  rainbow 
arching  its  prismatic  colors  across  the  sheet  of  water. 
The  Bridal  Veil  is  constantly  changing  in  its  effects,  and 
under  the  light  of  a bright  sun  it  is  an  enti*ancing  spectacle. 

Tlie  ])eople  of  the  valley  are  preparing  to  celebrate  the 
opening  of  the  wagon  road  completed  a month  ago  from 
Clark’s  Station  to  the  valley.  Tliey  have  erected  an  immense 
canvas  tent,  and  trimmed  it  with  large  boughs  of  evergreens. 
All  the  nudes  are  hard  at  work  “packing  in”  provisions  and 
other  necessaries  tor  man  and  l)east.  The  men  of  the  valley 
intend  to  go  al)ont  an  hour’s  ride  out  on  tlie  road  to  meet  the 
mountaineers,  and  escort  them  to  town.  Nearly  one  hun- 
dred persons  (this  l)eing  the  population  within  a radius  of 
thirty  nnles)  are  expected  to  join  in  the  celel)ration,  and  the 
people  of  the  valley  intend  to  give  a warm  welcome  to  their 
mountain  neigld)ors,  and  to  take  good  care  of  them  while 
here.  To  tell  of  half  the  wonders  of  tliis  undeveloped  and 
almost  unknown  corner  of  our  continent  would  l)e  impossihle 
within  the  si)ace  of  my  limited  time.  You  must  visit  it  and 
see  for  yourself.  The  Yoseniite  Valley  cannot  be  faithfully 
described  with  pen  or  l)rusli.  An  exact  description  of  it 
might  be  considered  an  exaggeration.  Photographs  give 
only  an  inadecpiate  representation  of  it,  because  of  the  im- 
practical)ility  of  ol)taining  vfith  a camera  a true  picture  of 
its  grand  features.  Tlie  natural  inaccessihility  of  this  sub- 
lime mountain  chasm  would  seem  to  indicate  that  Mother 
Nature  never  intended  to  reveal  the  secrets  and  beauties  of 
this  secluded  region.  Tlie  entrance  to  the  valley,  e\en  now, 
in  a carriage  is  a very  fatiguing  trip.  The  roads  are  fearfully 
steep  in  jilaces,  and  just  wude  enough  for  the  wagon  wheels 
to  keep  in  track,  and  only  at  certain  points,  called  “ dugouts,” 
can  the  stages  pass  each  other.  The  drivers  announce  the 


BAN  FEANCISCO  AND  THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


13 


approach  to  these  turnouts  hy  l)lowins’ a horn.  They  drive 
down  the  mountains  on  a run  with  teams  of  hve  liorses. 
Sometimes  there  is  not  more  tlian  several  inches  of  road 
between  the  wlieels  and  the  edge  of  a precipice  hundreds  of 
feet  deep.  Often  I had  not  the  nerve  to  look  over  the 
l)recipice,  and  woTild  ch^se  my  eyes  until  I heard  the  passen- 
gers exclaim,  “Well,  another  narrow  escax)e  is  over.”  And 
yet  they  tell  us  no  accident  has  happened  on  the  road.  How- 
ever, they  have  had  only  one  month’s  experience,  and  the  best 
drivers  in  the  country  are  employed,  some  of  them  men 
who  had  hel])ed  to  Iniild  the  road.  Each  stage  has  two 
drivers.  They  say  it  is  safer  to  go  on  a run  down  these 
steep  declivities  than  at  a slower  ])ace. 

— 4*  — 

SAN  Ekancibco,  July  28,  1875.  Here  is  an  epitome  of  a 
two  days’  visit  at  a mansion  in  Alamada,  a tew  miles 
from  8an  Francisco  : The  estate  comprises  one  hundred  and 
twenty  acres,  every  rod  of  which  is  under  the  highest  state 
of  cultivation  possible.  It  contains  a tine  driving-park,  acres 
of  flowers,  an  extensive,  beautifully  kex>t  lawn  shaded  by 
majestic  old  live  oaks,  and  acres  more  of  choicest  fruit. 
There  are  eight  l)eautiful  carriages  and  twelve  flue  blooded 
horses  at  the  serHce  of  the  family.  The  house  has  a corps  of 
eighteen  servants,  (las  is  made  on  the  premises,  and  the 
house  and  grounds  are  brilliantly  illuminated.  The  i)roperty 
extends  to  the  San  Francisco  Bay,  where  one  finds  two  beaii- 
tiful  little  gondolas,  with  gondoliers  in  x^icturescpie  costumes 
ready  to  command.  The  main  entrance-hall  is  eighteen  by 
forty  feet.  The  second-story  hall  corresx)onds  to  the  one  on 
the  first  story,  and  is  used  as  a i)icture  gallery.  Into  the  third- 


14 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS, 


floor  hall  open  the  bedrooms,  the  doors  of  which  are  faced 
with  mirrors,  so  that  at  first  sight  the  hall  appears  like  a 
salon  of  mirrors  rather  than  a servicealile  bedroom  corridor. 
The  halls  are  lighted  by  twenty  large  chandeliers.  The 
library,  on  the  first  floor,  is  ninch  larger  than  the  hall,  and 
contains  three  thousand  five  hnndred  carefnlly  chosen  l)Ooks, 
and  is  superbly  furnished.  Tlie  dining-room  is  a companion 
room  to  the  library.  One  end  of  tins  room  is  occnpied  l>y  the 
sideboard,  having  a mirror  which  extends  to  the  ceiling  and 
is  as  wide  as  the  sidelmard.  Two  large  rooms  are  appro- 
priated to  the  anmsement  of  billiards  and  liowling.  The 
drawing-i-oom  is  not  yet  finished  and  exceeds  all  the  other 
rooms  in  size.  The  inside  wood- work  for  the  entire  house 
was  made  in  New  York,  and  is  mostly  of  choice  imported 
woods.  The  fnrnitnre  is  made  to  match  the  wood-work  of 
each  room.  To  ns  were  assigned  two  adjoining  rooms  of 
immense  propoilions,  so  large  indeed  that  I could  almost 
lose  myself  in  serpentining  around  the  massive  fnrnitnre. 
These  rooms  contained  every  convenience  and  luxury  belong- 
ing to  liedrooms.  The  house  ser\dce  is  performed  liy  China- 
men, who  move  noiselessly  about  the  house  in  cork-hottomed 
shoes,  and  present  really  a picturesque  appearance  in  l)lne 
silk  or  cotton  blouse,  the  wearers  having  braids  of  plaited 
hair  reaching  down  to  their  heels. 

The  lady  of  the  mansion  is  a Quakeress,  a perfect  niis- 
ti'ess  of  her  lionse,  and  a most  charming  hostess.  The 
master  is  a highly  cultivated  and  a most  agreeal)le  host. 

We  saw  bushels  of  choice  fruit  decaying  upon  the  ground 
untouched  hecanse  it  was  a superfluity  and  could  not  he 
used  by  the  family.  Nothing  is  sold  from  this  place — would 
a Californian  king  make  a commerce  of  fruit ! This  is  one 
of  three  equally  magniflcent  estates  which  we  have  visited 
since  we  came  to  San  Francisco. 


SAN  FR.VNCISCO  AND  THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


15 


We  are  delighted  with  the  Golden  Gate  City.  The  climate 
is  deliglitfid;  even  the  most  sensitive  constitntion  can  find 
]iei*(^  an  agTceahle  atmosphere.  One  can  dress  thick  or  thin 
in  the  lionse ; the  only  pi*ecaidion  necessary  is  to  take  a 
wrap  when  going  ont  to  drive  or  walk.  Even  sealskin 
jackets  are  not  ont  of  |)lace  on  a Jidy  day  at  the  approach 
of  evening,  for  with  it  conies  the  cool  hracing  sea  air.  They 
say  the  sninmer  lireezes  in  San  Erancisco  arc  more  to  he 
feared  than  the  winter  rains. 

There  is  almost  a wastefid  almndance  of  frnit  in  this  city. 
It  is  sold  at  a merely  nominal  ]>rice.  Choice  vegetaldes 
and  Oregon  salmon  are  sold  in  tlie  niai'kets  for  trilling 
snnis  in  coni})arison  with  the  prices  paid  for  them  in  the 
East.  There  are  thi-ee  cro])S  of  hgs  a year,  and  strawberries 
are  to  he  had  every  month  in  the  year.  The  flower  gardens 
are  in  j>erpetiial  lilossom  from  Jannary  to  Jannary.  The 
hehotro])e  and  fuchsia  grow  Inxnrionsly  enongh  to  shade 
the  windows  and  cover  the  verandas.  However,  it  may  lie 
remarked  that  we  enjoy  the  howers  and  eat  tlie  fruits  at  a 
consideralile  ex|iense,  considering  the  distance  and  cost  of 
coming  here!  I find  little  or  no  diiferonce  in  the  ]irices  of 
dry  goods  here  and  in  onr  Eastern  cities.  There  is  no 
copper  coin  current  here  ; the  smallest  coin  used  is  tlie  silver 
half-dime.  About  the  lowest  price  for  anything  is  a “ hit,” 
equal  to  a New  York  shilling. 

— •!»  — 

O AN  Eilancisco,  July  31,  1875.  For  the  last  two  weeks  we 
GJ  have  been  constantly  on  the  wing,  visiting  and  sight- 
seeing, and  now  I find  it  necessary  “ to  put  in  ” for  a few 
days  of  rest,  letter- writing  and  general  repairs  We  have 


16 


ACKOSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


made  tlie  inevitable  drive  to  the  Cliff  House.  It  is  a favorite 
resort  for  pleasure-driving.  A refreshing  l)everage  and  a 
cool  sea  breeze  may  always  he  found  at  the  Cliff.  The  house 
is  located  on  a ledge  of  rocks  jutting  out  into  the  sea,  where 
there  is  a good  view  of  the  colony  of  seals,  which  have  a 
domain  of  their  own  a little  distance  out  in  the  hay.  On  a 
group  of  large  rocks,  rising  high  out  of  the  water,  scores  of 
seals,  old  and  young,  disport  themselves  without  fear  of 
molestation.  The  patriarch  of  the  colony  is  called  Ben 
Butler.  He  ansAvers  readily  to  this  appellation  when  a 
piece  of  l)read  is  throAvn  to  him.  It  is  really  quite  an  infat- 
uating amusement  to  watch  the  nioA^enients  of  the  seals. 
We  wei*e  as  relnctant  to  leave  the  spot  as  childrei]  are  to 
go  away  from  a cage  of  monkeys,  (^nite  near  the  Cliff 
House  is  the  Lone  Mountain  Cemetery.  The  mountain  is 
isolated,  looming  up  out  of  the  sandy  l)each,  whence  its 
name.  Since  it  has  been  occupied  as  a cemetery  eA^ery  foot 
of  soil  has  l)een  made  fertile  for  the  groAvth  of  plants  and 
lloAvers  V)y  ii-rigation.  Large  trees  are  uoav  perfectly  “ at 
home  ” on  the  sandy  sea-shore.  With  its  mountain  of 
flowers  the  cemetery  stands  out  in  l)old  relief,  the  sea  wash- 
ing its  base  on  one  side.  There  is  a magnificent  park  of 
tAVO  thousand  acres,  fronting  the  sea  Avith  miles  of  fine 
diiA^es.  By  irrigation  the  beach  along  the  main  diwe  has 
l)een  rendered  fertile  for  the  groAA'th  of  ti*ees,  shrubbery,  and 
the  grass  of  loA^ely  laAvns. 

We  dined  the  other  day  AAdth  a friend  Avhose  house  is 
a gem  of  art  and  beauty.  The  dining-room,  especially,  is 
worthy  a description.  Its  furniture  and  the  flooring  and 
all  the  other  wood-work  are  from  foreign  countries.  To 
particularize  : The  parquet  floor,  which  is  AAWought  out  of 


SAN  FKANCISCO  AND  THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


17 


cl  VMviety  of  woods  in  beautiful  desigTis,  the  doors,  the  frieze, 
aud  dados  were  made  in  Switzerland ; Italy  coutrilnited  the 
statTiary,  the  paintings  and  the  marble  mantel-pieces ; the 
tahle-service  came  from  Dresden  and  Bohemia.  Tw(j  Sevres 
vases  and  several  l)ronze  pieces  were  bronglit  from  Paris. 
Tlie  sideboard  was  manufactured  in  Hamlmrg.  The  din- 
ing-tal)le  cand  chairs  were  imported  from  England.  Every 
article  in  this  I’ooni  is  of  foreign  origin.  It  would  seem  that 
sending  to  Europe  for  tine  woods  is  like  “ taking  coals  to 
Newcastle,”  for  in  California  are  to  lie  found  as  finely  grained 
and  ricldy  colored  woods  as  can  be  found  in  any  country, 
and  skilled  labor  tor  wood-working  can  be  olitained  as  read- 
ily in  America  as  in  foreign  countries.  Nevertheless  these 
Califoniian  Monte-Cristos  must  expend  their  money  in 
Europe  ! 

We  have  indeed  much  to  boast  of  in  our  own  country. 
It  has  the  largest  trees,  the  largest  cave,  the  largest  cat- 
aract, and  the  largest  geyser  spring  in  the  world,  and 
now  I hear  it  possesses  the  largest  pearl  ever  found.  Not 
long  ago,  a poor  Mexican  fisherman,  at  a small  seaport, 
dredged  up  a large  oyster,  and,  to  his  great  astonishment, 
found  it  contained  a magnificent  pearl.  It  is  pure  white, 
oval  ill  shape,  more  than  an  inch  and  a half  long  liy  aliont 
one  inch  liroad.  Experts  have  pronounced  it  to  lie  the  finest 
pearl  ever  discovered.  The  poor  fisherman  wants  several 
tlioiisand  pounds  sterling  for  it.  How  iiiiich  of  this  pearl 
stoiy  is  true  I do  not  knoAV,  Imt  it  is  widely  circulated 
here. 

The  Palace  Hotel — another  of  America’s  wonders — is  to 
be  opened  in  a month.  It  is  a niagnificeiit  structure,  built 
at  a cost  of  $I:,000,000.  It  will  lodge  fifteen  humhud  persons 


3 


18 


ACllOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


and  require  a corps  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  servants. 
There  is  to  l>e  a hand  of  music  in  attendance  at  dinner  and 
in  the  evening.  The  l)uilding  is  seven  stories  high,  and 
occupies  one  square,  consequently  it  has  a frontage  on  four 
streets,  and  an  open  court  in  the  center,  filled  vuth  plants 
and  flowers.  Every  window  fronting  on  a street  is  a hay- 
window.  The  fifth  story  is  devoted  entirely  to  suites  of 
rooms  for  families.  There  is  an  elevator  at  each  street 
entrance.  The  hotel  is  provided  with  every  convenience 
necessary  for  the  use  and  comfort  of  its  guests. 

We  are  talking  quite  seriously  of  going  to  Japan  in  a tew 
weeks,  l)ut  as  yet  we  have  not  perfected  a plan  for  this  jour- 
ney. I will  write  you  more  al)Out  it  in  another  letter. 

We  have  changed  our  quarters  from  the  Grand  Hotel  to 
the  Lick  House.  Tlie  dining-hall  in  this  house  is  something 
unique  and  very  fine.  It  is  octagonal  in  form,  and  includes 
in  its  height  two  stories  of  the  house.  It  is  lighted  from 
al)ove  through  richly-colored  glass.  There  is  not  a vdndow 
in  the  room.  There  are  four  grand  entrances  to  it.  The 
doors  are  massive  and  large  and  are  made  of  choice  Califor- 
nian woods.  In  the  four  corners  are  immense  miiTors,  and 
in  alternate  panels  are  paintings  in  size  corresi)onding  to  the 
mirrors.  The  paintings  are  Hews  of  the  Yoseniite  Valley 
l)y  the  l)est  American  artists.  The  mirrors  and  paintings 
are  framed  with  rosewood,  inlaid  with  rich  gilt  tracery. 
Tliere  are  eight  Corinthian  columns  of  wood,  exquisitely 
carved,  supporting  the  glass  ceiling,  and  four  very  large 
glass  chaudeliers  reflecting  tlie  colors  of  the  rainl)ow  through 
hundreds  of  prisms.  The  talJes  seat  four  huudred  guests. 
The  tahle  appointments  are  very  fine,  and  are  in  keeping 
with  the  general  features  of  the  room. 


HAN  FEANCIHCO  AND  THE  YOHEMITE  VALLEY. 


19 


SAN  Francihco,  August  26,  1875.  We  Imve  al);iii<loiie(l 
and  reconsidered  more  than  once  onr  trip  to  Ja])an,  ]mt 
at  last  we  have  decided  to  nndertake  it  and  liave  taken  pas- 
sao’e  in  the  China^  leaving  Sept  end  )er  1st.  It  is  a voyage  of 
foTir  thousand  eight  Inmdred  niiles,  and  is  made  in  tlie  time 
of  twenty-fonr  to  thirty  days.  This  is  indeed  a long  sea 
voyage  and  may  lead  to  a continnation  of  onr  travels,  ecen 
to  going  aronnd  the  world  ! Bnt  are  we  not  jnst  as  much  in 
the  constant  care  of  onr  Heavenly  Father  in  China  as  in 
onr  ovm  home  ? And  may  we  not  trust  onrselves  to  His 
})rotecting  care  with  the  same  confidence  in  one  spot  on  the 
earth  as  in  another,  far  from  home  as  well  as  at  lioine  I So, 
keeping  tliis  thonght  in  mind,  I sliall  leave  the  Pacific  shore 
with  the  liopefnl  assnrance  that  we  shall  make  the  journey 
across  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  safety,  and,  after  many  thonsand 
niiles  liy  water  and  hy  land,  may  he  spared  to  meet  onr 
loved  ones  again  after  a long  separation.  I do  not  forget 
that  changes  may  take  place  among  us  in  a year’s  time  ; hut, 
whatever  may  happen,  let  ns  rememher  that  Hod’s  decrees 
, are  jnst  and  right. 

We  expect  to  meet  with  some  interesting  experiences, 
the  remenihrance  of  whi(di  will  he  worth  Ininging  home 
with  ns.  We  are  going  over,  to  ns,  entirely  new  ground, 
which  is  not  so  frecpiently  traveled  liy  the  American  tourist 
as  the  well-lieaten,  old  European  routes.  China  seems  a 
long  way  oft  from  home,  hut  from  this  point  it  is  reached 
in  a few  weeks. 


Ill 


yl('ro,S‘,s:  the  Pacific. 

SEPTEMBEE  12,  1875.  Oil  1)oai*(l  the  steainsliip  China,  two 
thousand  and  thirty-six  miles  out  from  8an  Francisco. 
We  sailed  on  the  1st  of  Septenilier,  and  this  is  the  first  time 
I liave  felt  disposed  to  hegin  a lionie  letter, — not  on  account 
of  mat  (le  mer,  which  I liave  not  suffered  from,  l)ut,  to  make 
a frank  confession,  I have  had  a little  attack  of  mat  da  paijs, 
and  to  color  a letter  with  such  a sentiment  does  not,  as 
you  know,  read  well  at  liome.  With  twelve  long  days  of 
redection  on  travel  and  other  to])ics  at  sea,  1 have  adapted 
myself  to  the  new  situation,  and  at  last  have  taken  courage 
and  intend  to  improve  this  grand  opportunity  for  traveling, 
which  is  a chance  of  a life-time,  and  am  now  ready  to  hegin 
one  of  my  “circular  letters.”  I observe  there  is  a general 
movement  in  the  caliin  toward  letter-writing,  occasioned  by 
the  report  fi'oin  the  purser  that  we  may  meet  an  outward- 
hound  steamer  any  day,  when  we  sliall  exchange  mails. 

Here  we  are  out  on  the  broad  Pacific,  not  quite  half-way 
over  the  passage  of  four  thousand  eight  hundred  miles  be- 
tween America  and  Japan.  Our  ship  is  large  and  strong, 
hut  not  fast.  The  Pacitic  Mail  Company  allows  only  forty- 
five  tons  of  coal  to  he  consumed  a day,  which  is  a short  al- 


ACEOSS  THE  PACIFIC. 


21 


lowance  for  a great  steamship  like  the  China.  Tlie  cai)taiii 
tells  us  that  it  is  not  prudent  to  drive  a steaniei’  at  her  l>est 
speed  on  the  first  halt  ot  a long  voyage,  so  we  accept  the 
motto  of  “slow  and  sure.”  At  present  we  do  not  expect  to 
reach  Yokohama  before  the  28th  hist.  The  China  is  a side- 
wheel  steamer,  and  does  not  run  as  fast  as  a })rox)eller.  So 
far,  we  have  had  hue  weather,  and  I have  lieen  aide  to  say 
“present”  at  every  meal,  counting  four  a day,  liesides  the 
morning  cohee.  While  we  have  had  no  wind  of  any  con- 
se({uence,  yet  I oliserve,  after  an  experience  of  crossing  the 
Atlantic  four  times,  that  the  ocean  swells  on  the  Pacific 
are  heavier  and  longer  than  upon  the  Atlantic,  and  are  not 
less  liable  to  render  one  seasick.  We  have  only  forty-five 
cabin  xiassengers,  although  there  is  accommodation  for  one 
hundred  and  fifty-six.  The  state-rooms  are  comtortalile  in 
size.  We  have  two  connected  cahins,  and  have  had  the  u})per 
berths  removed,  so  that  we  each  have  a nice  httle  liedi'ooni. 
Each  cal  )in  is  furnished  with  a small  chest  of  drawers,  which 
• we  find  a very  handy  arrangement.  The  stewards  and  stew- 
ardesses are  Ctiinese.  They  are  neat  in  appearance,  and 
move  quietly  about,  seldom  speaking.  They  keep  the  caldns 
in  good  order.  Upon  the  up^ier  deck  is  the  “social  hall,” 
where  there  is  a piano  and  a very  well-stocked  bookcase. 
There  the  evenings  are  agreeably  passed  in  chatting  and 
singing.  The  “Moody  and  Sankey”  hymn-books  are  passed 
around  every  evening,  and  singing  some  of  the  stirring  songs 
while  away  an  hour  or  two  after  dinner.  Among  our  pas- 
sengers are  a number  of  agreealile  people,  embracing  several 
naval  officers,  a dozen  missionaries,  Mr.  Yano,  the  Japanese 
charge  (Vajfaires  at  Washington,  and  his  wife,  who  are  going 
home  on  a conge ^ and  six  “glol)e-trotters,”  as  travelers  are 
called  who  are  making  the  tour  around  the  world,  including 


22 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


ourselves.  There  are  two  Englisliinen  on  hoard,  going  to 
China  to  have  three  months’  shooting,  and  two  Italians  are 
going  to  Jajjan  to  huy  silk  cocoons.  There  are  also  three 
hundred  Chinamen  in  the  steerage,  among  whom  are  two 
rich  merchants  of  San  Francisco,  who  prefer  to  live  among 
their  own  people  ratlier  than  in  the  cahin  with  the  “Melican” 
men.  The  cuisine  of  the  ship  is  equal  to  that  of  a Fifth 
Avenue  hotel,  and  the  daily  menu  embraces  a very  satisfac- 
tory variety  of  viands.  Coffee  or  tea  is  served  at  seven  a.  m. 
in  the  cabins,  a good  breakfast  conies  at  nine  o’clock,  an  ex- 
cellent Inncli  is  ready  at  one  o’clock,  aud  a fine  dinner 
follows  at  six  p.  M.,  and  the  cloth  is  laid  for  tea  and  cakes  at 
nine  o’clock.  We  have  had  fresh  celery  every  day.  The 
captain  says  he  has  “hanging  gardens”  outside  the  ship, 
whence  come  the  fresli  vegetables ! We  have  on  hoard 
beeves,  sliee]),  chickens,  pigeons,  and  pigs.  A Japanese  cow 
furnishes  milk  for  the  captain’s  talile.  The  cow  is  quite  a 
traveler,  having  made  several  voyages. 

To-day,  on  the  fourteenth  day  out,  we  are  fifty  miles  from 
the  half-way  xioint.  So  far,  we  have  lieen  “climhing  uji  hill,” 
and  as  soon  as  we  reach  the  “dhfide”  we  will  liegin  going 
down,  and  shall  make  1 letter  time  then,  as  our  shiji  is  he- 
couiing  daily  lighter.  The  caxffain  has  just  jiassed  through 
tlie  cahin  on  his  daily  tour  of  insi>ection,  and  rejiorts  “all 
well.”  Observing  several  jiassengers  writing,  he  remarked: 
“I  suxqiose  you  are  all  writing  hooks;  something  the  Amer- 
ican traveler  is  sure  to  do.” 

The  fifteenth  day  out.  During  the  last  twenty-four  hours 
we  have  had  delightful  sailing,  scarcely  a rip})le  to  he  seen. 
We  seem  to  glide  over  the  long  swells  as  gracefully  as  a 
fioating  swan.  We  have  a full  moon,  which  makes  the 
evenmgs  on  deck  very  enjoyable.  Sou,  our  cahin  steward. 


ACKOSS  THE  PACIFIC. 


28 


comes  quietly  every  eveuing',  at  nine  o’clock,  to  tiiid  us,  and 
to  say,  “Missee,  tea  is  going.”  Prom  tins  time  forward, 
until  we  reach  Europe,  the  lunch  is  called  “tiffin.” 

The  l)athiug  facilities  on  hoard  are  good.  Wo  enjoy  very 
much  a cold  sea- water  hath  in  tlie  morning.  I imagine  it 
helps  to  resist  seasickness.  The  two  Chinese  stewardesses 
are  so  fat  and  their  feet  so  cramped  that  tliey  are  of  little  or 
no  service  to  the  ladies.  Fortunately,  the  weather  has  lieen 
so  tine  and  the  shi];)  so  steady  that  we  have  not  required 
their  assistance. 

The  more  we  are  informed  concerning  oni‘  contemplated 
jonrneyings  in  the  East,  the  more  we  are  persuaded  that  we 
liave  before  us  a very  interesting  and  instructive  tour.  I 
have  greatly  enjoyed  reading  Baron  de  Hiilmer’s  travels 
around  the  world.* 

September  16,  1875.  Wo  crossed  the  one  hundred  and 
’ eightieth  meridian  this  morning  aliout  ten  o’ch^ck,  and  are 
now  two  thousand  eight  hundred  miles  from  America. 
Naturally  we  have  all  looked  tor  the  exact  npot  where  we  will 
di-oj)  the  day  out  of  our  calendar  time,  and  quit  counting  the 
degrees  of  longitude  from  the  west! 

The  mathematical  calculation  of  time  has  lieen  the  topic 
of  conversation  for  the  last  two  days.  The  traveler,  on  his 
iirst  voyage  across  the  Pacific,  is  not  a little  perplexed  in 
trying  to  comprehend  this  reckoning  of  time  at  sea.  When 
we  think  we  understand  it,  we  are  still  inca})ahle  to  explain 
it  to  one  another  or  talk  intelligently  about  it.  However,  we 

* June,  188G.  Since  the  date  of  this  letter  I have  had  the  pleasnre  of 
making  the  personal  ac(piaintance  of  Baron  de  Hiibner,  in  Vienna,  at  a 
dinner  given  by  the  Clerman  anil)assador.  He  is  an  experienced  traveler, 
and  a fine  descriptive  writer. 


24 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


omit  one  day  in  our  reckoning,  tliat  we  may  not  he  ont  of 
time  when  we  reach  Japan,  Starting  with  Grreenwich  time, 
we  are  to-day  jnst  half-way  around  the  world.  The  weather 
is  warm,  and  tlie  ladies  are  in  light-colored  calico  toilettes, — 
cahco  being  tlie  most  convenient  fabric  to  wear  on  a long  and 
warm  sea-voyage.  O,  for  only  one  peep  at  yon  all  to-day  ! 

Se|)tenil)er  18,  1875.  It  looks  a little  odd  to  see  on  the 
shij)’s  bnlletin  this  morning  the  date  of  September  18th, 
when  yesterday  was  marked  tlie  16th!  The  captain  says  we 
will  hnd  the  reckoning  all  right  on  arriving  in  Yokohama. 
Crossing  the  one  linndred  and  eightieth  meridian  is  the 
grand  event  of  tlie  voyage,  and  an  extra-line  dinner  is  served. 
To-day  is  Saturday,  and  the  l)hie-l>lonsed  celestials  are  scrnb- 
liing  and  polishing  np  for  Sunday. 

September  19,  1875.  We  have  had  the  nsnal  chnrch  serv- 
ice read  by  the  captain,  and  an  interesting  sermon  by  one 
of  the  missionaries.  The  service  was  attended  by  two  Prot- 
estant Chinamen,  who  listened  to  the  sermon  with  marked 
attention.  On  Snnday  mornings  the  ci*ew  is  drilled  for  lire- 
dnty.  The  men  are  exercised  to  make  them  proficient  in  the 
nse  of  the  means  for  extin gnishing  hre. 

Wlien  the  alarm  is  given,  tlie  hose  is  laid  qnickly  through 
the  ship,  attended  with  consideralile  excitement,  and  the 
machinery  is  arranged  with  as  mnch  x>Tecision  as  if  it  were 
for  a fire.  Tlie  exercise  consnmes  a half  honr. 

We  are  now  nineteen  day  s ont,  and  have  made  two-thirds 
of  the  voyage,  and  have  to  exiiect  at  least  ten  more  days  of 
this  sea-life.  We  are  already  tired  of  making  the  daily  “con- 
stitutional” on  the  hnrricane-deck,  and  are  now  limiting  it 
to  a lazy  sauntering  to  the  shi^i’s  bow  to  see  the  sunset.  At 


ACROSS  THE  rACIElC. 


25 


the  of  the  voyage,  we  undertook  to  do  very  vigor- 

ously a “ coustitutioiiar’  twice  a day.  The  weather  is  very 
warm,  and  we  are  iioav  somewhat  enervated,  and  are  not 
disposed  to  walk  niucli  for  exercise. 

Septeml)er  22,  1875.  We  have  made  two  Imndred  and 
thirty-tive  miles  in  tiie  last  twenty-fonr  hours, — tlie  best 
day’s  run  so  far  during  tlie  voyage. 

Septemher  23,  1875.  I had  begun  to  think  tliat  perliaps 
we  had  lost  our  way  in  tins  immense  expanse  of  trackless 
water,  hamng  met  uo  sail  of  any  kind  since  we  left  port, 
more  tlian  tliree  Aveeks  ago,  when  al>out  noon  to-day  the 
joyful  sound  was  heard  in  the  cal)iii,  “All  liands  on  deck! 
A ship  is  in  sight!”  It  Avas  tlie  Colorado,  liomeAvard  l)onnd, 
and  AAutli  her  Ave  exchanged  mails.  It  l)ecomes  very  monot- 
onous to  tlie  eye  to  see  notliiiig  Imt  sky  aiid  Avater  for  thi-ee 
long  Aveeks  ! 

September  24,  1875.  The  excitement  of  meeting  the  Col- 
orado  yesterday  briglitened  the  AAdiole  day.  To-day  AA^e  are 
hack  again  in  the  old  do-nothing  routine.  We  are  getting 
tired  of  one  another’s  society,  and  are  longing  for  a change 
of  scene.  TAventy-four  days  of  a quiet  sea-voyage  makes 
one  dnll.  After  three  weeks  of  constant  intercourse  AAuth  a 
limited  numlier  of  jicople,  the  stimulus  of  thought  and  con- 
versation diminishes,  and  Ave  move  languidly  aliout  hetAveen 
meals,  \Auth  little  or  nothing  to  say.  Nobody  has  any  news. 
We  have  already  discussed  almost  everything  and  every- 
body. One  day  is  like  another,  barring  bad  Aveather.  The 
atmosphere  is  heavy  and  Avarm.  There  are  indications  of  a 
typhoon.  During  the  night  the  shi}>  was  trimmed  foi‘  a 


26 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


sudden  change  of  weather.  We  are  told  that  at  this  season 
of  the  year  typhoons  maybe  expected  near  the  Japan  coast. 

September  25,  1875.  Tliis  evening  I can  think  of  nothing 
new  of  which  to  write.  Everybody  is  warm,  besides  being 
fatigued  with  the  voyage.  The  air  is  sultry,  and  we  are  con- 
scious that  a great  atmospheric  change  is  near  at  hand,  and 
consequently  everybody  is  a little  blue.  The  captain  says  he 
has  some  spare  coal,  and  that  he  mil  at  once  increase  the 
speed  of  the  vessel. 

September  26,  1875.  Sunday  morning.  The  weather  is 
warm  and  sultry  again  to-day.  A light  breeze,  however,  is 
freshening,  and  with  it  our  spirits  are  rising.  We  feel  sure 
we  shall  escape  the  threatened  tjqihoon.  We  came  in  sight 
of  Cape  King  early  this  morning,  and  this  brings  us  within 
forty-five  miles  of  Yokohama.  Information  is  lirought  that 
the  Great  BepulMc  is  coming  down  the  hay,  and  we  are  to 
send  off  another  mail  to  her.  We  are  glad  to  end  our  long 
voyage  of  twenty-five  days,  although  it  has  been  a very  fine 
one,  and  we  have  made  it  in  two  days’  less  time  than  we 
expected  to  do  when  starting.  We  have  not  had  one  had  day. 
I have  not  had  a symptom  of  seasiclmess,  nor  have  we  once 
had  the  “fiddlers”  on  the  table.  Old  Neptune  has  been 
friendly  all  the  way  over. 


IV 


Japan  and  the  Inhual  Sea. 


OKOHAMA,  Septeinl)er  26, 1875,  Sunday  eveniii,t»-.  Here  we 


are  in  Japan  far  away  from  home,  and  among  people  and 
scenes  entirely  unlike  anything  we  have  yet  heheld  in  all  onr 
travels.  We  came  into  the  harl)or  at  3:30  o’clock  this  after- 
noon, and  reached  the  Grand  Hotel  at  almnt  live  o’clock.  On 
onr  arrival  in  the  hay  the  ship  was  l)oarded  hy  nearly  naked 
coolies  who  took  ns  and  onr  l)aggage  oft  in  sampans,  or  little 
row-hoats.  After  a hard  pull  of  fifteen  minutes  in  a pouring 
rain,  we  landed  on  the  htnid.,  or  dock,  wet  as  rats,  hut  glad 
enough  to  touch  terra,  jinn  a,  once  more.  The  hoatmen  pre- 
sented a strange  ap|)earance  to  ns.  Tlieir  clothing  was  a 
rich  coating  of  tattoo,  wdth  only  a loin-cloth  about  the  l)ody, 
and  a little  square  of  straw  matting  fastened  hy  a rope  ai'ound 
their  necks  hanging  dowm  their  hacks  to  keep  oft  the  rain. 
They  were  barefooted  and  without  hats  or  head-gear  of  any 
kind.  A little  tuft  of  hair,  coinhed  to  stand  upright  on  the 
top  of  the  head,  gave  them  a savage  appearance  not  unlike 
that  of  our  Western  Indians.  The  tattoo  designs  are  gro- 
tesque; dragons  seem  to  he  the  favorite  figures.  The  captain 
of  our  sampan  has  a i)ictm‘e  of  the  Mikado  on  his  hack.  The 
legs  and  arms  of  these  x>eople  are  generally  marked  with 


27 


28 


ACKOSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


serpents  and  favorite  idols.  The  tattoo  is  of  a blue  color 
with  occasional  sj winkles  of  a l)rigiit  red.  The  coohes  hronght 
ns  safely  ashore.  We  sliall  l)e  glad  to  sleep  in  a comfortable 
bed  once  more.  But  we  mnst  not  s])eak  disdainfully  of  Old 
Ocean.  We  have  yet  to  ask  many  favors  of  the  great  sea 
l)efore  we  reach  home  again. 


OKOHAMA,  8eptenil)er  27,  1875.  After  “tiffin”  at  noon 


to-day  we  started  tor  a drive.  Onr  velncle  was  a jiur id' - 
sIhui\  a two-wheeled  cart,  slia|)ed  like  a cliihrs  hand-carriage, 
wdth  a canvas  hood  drawn  half  over  it.  Tlie  conveyance  was 
jnst  large  enongh  tor  one  person  to  sit  comfortably  in.  It  was 
moved  l)y  two  tattooed  coolies,  one  drawing  and  the  other 
pushing.  Coolies  em|)loyed  in  family  service  wear  lose  sacks, 
which  afford  a more  snl)stantial  covering  than  tattoo.  The 
passenger  is  protected  from  rain  by  oiled  paper  covering 
the  toi>  of  the  vehicle,  and  inclosing  the  ]_)erson  as  if  in  a hag. 
Few  liorses  are  to  he  seen  in  the  streets,  and  they  are  not  for 
hire.  They  belong  to  foreigners  resichng  in  the  country. 
Horses  are  required  only  tor  long  jonrneys.  We  have  an 
American  for  guide  and  company.  He  is  engaged  in  Yoko- 
hama commercially  in  the  eurioa  business.  He  is  coaching  ns 
in  Japanese  manners  and  cnstoms,  and  informing  ns  respect- 
ing the  leading  questions  of  the  day.  We  comprehended  many 
things  pretty  well  before  we  hnished  onr  first  stroll  about  towm. 
We  made  the  promenade  of  Honcho  Dori — the  Broadway  of 
Yokohama — and  visited  Sholiey’s  silk-shop,  the  jirincipal  one 
in  the  city,  where  we  saw  specimens  of  the  best  Japanese 
garments  and  fabrics  of  siUv,  beantifnl  crei>es  of  all  colors 
and  gayly  colored  silli  l)ed-qnilts  covered  with  hand-made 


A JINRICKSHAW. 


JAl’AN  AND  THE  INLAND  SEA, 


29 


eniliroideiy.  We  entered  a lacquer-sliop,  and  saw  many 
beantitnl  pieces  of  furniture,  and  rich  bronzes  with  elal)orate 
gold  and  silver  inlaid  work.  This  hronze-work  is  a s})ecialty  of 
the  country,  forming  one  of  its  chief  industries.  We  went  to 
the  “ Bluffs,”  a high  promontory  overhanging  Mississipjiy  Bay 
jnst  hey  Olid  the  crowded  thoronghfares  of  tlie  city.  Here 
foreigners  and  American  missionaries  live.  We  sto^iped  at 
a very  attractive  tea-honse,  and  had  a cipi  of  tea,  and  a chat, 
through  onr  interpreter,  with  the  tea-maid.  The  scenery  is 
picturesque,  and  the  garden  cultivation  is  perfect.  W e passed 
fields  of  rice  where  the  laborers,  both  men  and  women,  were 
almost  naked ; the  tattooed  men  wearing  only  loin-cloths, 
and  the  women  a short,  scant  skirt  scarcely  covering  them 
from  the  waist  to  tlie  knees.  They  get  eigiit  cents  a day  for 
their  toil,  and  consider  themselves  fortunate  in  obtaining 
steady  work.  We  saw  evergreen  trees  dwarfed  in  all  shapes, 
and  lovely  bamboo  cottages  vdth  thatched  roots  and  small 
green  hushes  growing  here  and  there  in  tlie  thatch,  and  little 
tnfts  of  grass  cropping  ont  nnder  the  eaves.  The  children 
of  the  poor,  from  eight  to  ten  years  of  age,  are  entirely  naked, 
and  never  have  a thread  of  clothing  on  their  bodies  until  they 
are  aliont  twelve  years  of  age.  A Jai)anese  is  not  allowed  to 
wear  whiskers  until  he  becomes  a grandfather;  hence  old  bach- 
elors can  have  no  heard.  The  ’rickshaw  coolies  take  a trotting 
gait  and  keep  it  as  long  as  they  go.  Sometimes  they  make 
long  leajis  accompanied  with  a good-natnred  yell,  both  coohes 
jumping  together.  This  movement  ends  with  a jerk,  causing 
not  a pleasant  sensation  to  the  xiassenger.  They  get  over 
the  ground  as  fast  as  horses.  An  active  coolie  can  make 
fifty  or  sixty  miles  a day  and  not  feel  fatigued.  The  waiters 
at  onr  hotel  are  scantily  clothed.  They  wear  a loose  frock 
coming  jnst  below  the  knees,  hut  no  shirt.  Although  their 


30 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


legs  are  bare,  their  stockingless  feet  are  cased  in  toe-slippers. 
All  (lay  there  have  been  hnhcations  of  a typhoon,  and  heavy 
wooden  bars  have  been  placed  in  the  rooms  to  fasten  the 
inside  shutters  should  the  vdnd  rise.  As  a precautionary 
measure  the  doors  and  windows  will  be  barred  to-night. 


OKOHAMA,  Septeml)er  29,  1875.  We  did  not  have  a 


ty2)hoon,  but  we  (hd  experience  a terrible  and  raking 
wind  for  a few  hours,  causing  a heavy  tide  which  inundated 
the  hiuid.  We  are  told  that  we  cannot  escape  the  autumnal 
typhoon,  for  if  we  do  not  get  it  here  we  shall  strike  it 
elsewhere. 

The  common  fruits  include  the  persimmon,  which  is  of  the 
size  of  a small  tomato,  similar  to  it  in  color  and  form,  ha\dng 
a hat  black  seed.  This  fruit  is  sweet  and  without  character. 
The  graj)es  are  small  l)iit  fairly  good.  The  pears  look  like 
russet  apples  and  are  coarse  in  grain,  juicy  but  rather  taste- 
less. There  is  an  abundance  of  good  figs. 

A Japanese  house  merits  descrij)tion.  It  is  constructed 
on  a hanil)oo  frame.  The  roof  and  sides  are  thatched  with 
rice-straw.  On  this  thatch  small  Imshes  and  tufts  of  long 
grass  grow,  sometimes  nearly  covering  the  roof  and  sides  of 
the  bnikUng.  The  windows  are  sliding  frames  (hvided  into 
little  stpiares,  and  are  neatly  covered  with  thin  white  pajxu, 
which,  of  course,  must  be  frequently  renewed  on  account  of 
its  exposure  to  rain,  tor  even  a slight  rain  stiiking  on  the 
l)asted  paper  unijlazes  it  immediately.  These  paper  windows 
admit  a most  agreeable  hght.  The  vdndows  of  the  temples 
are  generally  of  i)aper.  The  partitions  of  the  houses  are 
covered  with  paper,  and  are  movable  hke  screens ; tliey  may 


JAPAN  AND  THE  INLAND  SEA. 


31 


lie  removed  to  make  a large  room.  A rich  mercliant’s  liouse 
is  fashioned  in  tliis  manner  : Tlie  l)andioo  frame  is  sixteen 

feet  square  and  two  stories  high ; spaces  of  six  feet  inter- 
vene lietween  tlie  joists.  The  Imilding  is  divided  into  four 
apartments  of  equal  size ; hoth  stories  are  alike.  There  is 
no  chimney.  An  aperture  in  tlie  outer  wall  of  the  cooking 
department  jiermits  the  escajie  of  smoke  from  a small  char- 
coal furnace  used  in  cooking.  Small  porches,  ahont  two  feet 
vdde,  run  along  each  story,  on  the  front  and  rear.  They 
somewhat  protect  the  jiaper  windows  from  the  rain.  The 
houses  have  galile  roofs.  In  the  city  tliey  are  covered  with 
tile ; in  the  country  they  are  thatched  witli  rice-straw. 
The  frame-work  and  doors  are  painted  a dark  gray  ora  lironze 
color.  The  houses  have  little  furniture  besides  the  cooking 
furnace  and  tea-kettle.  The  latter  is  always  over  tlie  fire  and 
supplied  with  boiling  water  to  make  at  any  time  a cn|)  of 
tea.  The  kettle  stands  close  by  the  entrance-door  to  he  con- 
venient for  serving  the  visitor  with  the  enjoyable  lieverage. 
The  hahafehi  is  a small  lironze  vessel  containing  hot  ashes 
and  live  coals  for  liglitiiig  the  pipes  for  smoking.  With 
these  two  utensils,  a few  cups  and  saucers,  a small  clock 
and  a family  idol  the  receiving-room  is  furnished,  together 
vdth  a red-cushioned  movahle  platform,  high  enough  to 
serve  for  a seat  and  sufficiently  vdde  to  he  used  liy  a nnm- 
lier  of  persons  sitting  hack  to  hack  placed  in  a convenient 
part  of  the  room.  This  serves  to  seat  the  family  and  visitors. 
A small  brick  furnace  is  built  up  in  the  middle  of  the  kitchen, 
and  a single  cooking  utensil  is  used  tor  boiling  rice  and  fisli, 
which  are  the  staff  of  life  for  the  Japanese.  No  spoons  or 
forks  are  required  by  the  people  when  eating,  for  their  expert 
fingers  serve  them  instead  of  the  former.  A small  wooden 
tub  is  made  availahle  for  all  necessary  household  purposes. 


32 


ACROSS  THE  MERIHIANS. 


Tlie  food  is  served  in  a large  round  metal  vessel  placed  upon 
a low  tal)le.  Tlie  faniily  sit  around  it,  and  each  member 
helps  himself  hy  sopping  a piece  of  coarse  bread  in  the 
mixture,  and  so  partakes  of  it.  If  the  family  has  partly 
adopted  the  European  way  of  eating,  each  one  is  provided 
with  a small  l^owl,  into  which  the  food  is  poured.  The 
floors  are  covered  vdth  lined  straw  matting  which  is  as  soft 
as  an  Axniinster  carpet.  The  Japanese  sleep  on  cotton 
mats  laid  upon  the  floor.  In  tlie  morning  the  mats  are 
stowed  away  on  a shelf  or  in  a corner  closet.  For  the  privacy 
of  the  different  memhers  of  the  family  during  the  hours  of 
sleeping  a number  of  jiaper  partitions  are  arranged  about 
the  rooms.  The  pillow  is  a small  block  of  wood  about  one 
foot  long,  five  inches  wide,  and  eight  inches  high.  Upon 
the  five-inch  side  of  the  lilock  is  a slight  concaAdty  to  fit  the 
head  of  the  sleeper.  A pillow  filled  vdth  cut  rice-straw  and 
covered  with  several  sheets  of  rice-pa|ier  is  used  as  a com- 
fortable support  for  the  head.  Economical  housewives 
often  have  a little  drawer  fitted  into  this  pillow-block  to 
serve  as  a receiitacle  for  toilet  articles.  Dressing  the  hair 
is  the  only  part  of  the  toilet  of  both  men  and  women  in 
which  special  pride  is  taken.  Professional  hair-(Uessers  are 
employed.  The  Japanese  (h*ess  their  hair  twdce  a week,  and 
they  consequently  devise  a way  for  protecting  the  coiffure 
intact  while  sleeping.  The  small  pillow  serves  them  admira- 
bly. The  head  is  raised  sufficiently  hy  it  to  keep  the  coiffure 
free  from  (hsarrangement.  (This  pillow  might  not  he  very 
acceptable  in  onr  country.)  Even  the  coolies,  who  drag  the 
hicksiiaws  and  wear  only  loin-cloths  for  “full  dress,”  have 
their  hair  nicely  dressed  and  tied  up  in  httle  knots  on  the 
tops  of  their  lieads.  There  are  peram])nlating  harhers  who 
dress  the  liair  of  the  coohes  on  the  sidewalks. 


A JAPANESE  BEDROOM. 


i 


JAPAN  AND  THE  INLAND  SEA. 


At  iiiglit  a large  padded  lilouse,  or  sack  coat  tied  in  front, 
having  long  sleeves,  is  the  connnon  sleeping-dress  and  cover- 
ing for  the  night.  A stationary  tid),  standing  ontside  the 
dwelling  and  tilled  vdth  rnnning  water,  serves  the  entire 
family  for  daily  alilntions.  The  l)etter  chiss  of  Japanese 
appreciate  a warm  hatli,  and  patronize  the  pnl)lic  liatlis.  Not 
a single  piece  of  fnrnitnre  considered  l>y  ns  essential  in  a 
house  is  seen  in  a Japanese  lionse.  Chairs  are  no  more 
needed  than  tallies.  Everybody  takes  his  l)owl  of  rice  or 
cnp  of  tea  in  hand  and  seats  liimself  on  the  common  sofa  or 
bench  of  the  house.  The  cultivated  classes  eat  with  chop- 
sticks. With  them  they  arc  very  expert  in  getting  the  boiled 
rice  from  the  Ik)w1  to  the  moutb.  A Japanese  of  the  common 
class  lias  but  one  suit  of  clotbing,  wbicli  is  worn  until  it  is 
necessary  to  replace  it  with  anotlier. 

Moving  and  traveling  from  one  place  to  anotlier  are  not  to 
be  dreaded  on  account  of  the  great  quantity  of  liaggage. 


OKOHAlMA,  October  2, 1875.  To  save  repetition  and  time. 


please  consider  my  letters  during  tins  journey  as  “cir- 
cular,” and  send  tlieiii  around  tlie  boiiie  circle. 

We  are  ab’eady  liooked  for  anotlier  voyage.  We  go  on  the 
9tb  hist,  to  Sbangbai  by  the  Japanese  steamer  JS^e/r  Yorh^ 
wbicli  is  officered  liy  Americans.  It  is  a voyage  of  seven 
days,  partly  tbrongb  the  Inland  Sea,  including  two  stoppages 
of  twenty-four  hours  each,  one  at  Koliy  and  the  other  at 
Nagasaki.  However,  I innst  not  anticipate,  and  liasten  to 
relate  too  inucli  now,  for  I have  more  to  tell  you  concerning 
this  country  before  we  leave  it. 

In  all  Japanese  cities,  foreigners  are  not  iiermitted  to  take 


34 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEEDIANS. 


iij)  tlieir  residence  in  all  parts  of  them,  but  only  in  certain 
sections  set  apart  for  their  occnpation.  The  tea-honses 
employ  yonng  and  pretty  httle  Japanese  maids,  with  teeth 
as  white  as  pearls  and  complexions  soft  and  peacliy  as  pow- 
der and  rouge  can  make  them.  These  guds  wear  bright- 
colored  loose  silk  sack  dresses,  with  front  d la  F.,  some- 
what open.  Their  hair  is  elaborately  put  np  mth  brass  pins 
and  rings.  Their  feet  and  legs  are  hare.  They  adorn  them- 
selves vdtli  many  jade  ornaments.  The  passer-hy  is  induced 
to  stop  for  a cnp  of  tea  l>y  the  winning  smiles  and  jjersonal 
attractions  of  the  pretty  tea-maids.  The  beauty  of  a Japanese 
girl  changes  as  soon  as  slie  is  married.  She  then  blackens 
]ier  teeth  and  neglects  to  make  lierself  attractive,  that  she 
may  indicate  to  her  husband  that  she  is  devoted  and  faithful 
to  him,  and  that  she  may  he  (hstingnished  from  unmarried 
women.  Glirls  and  hoys  at  the  age  of  five  years  begin  to  he 
nurses.  The  halhes  are  strapped  on  the  children’s  l^acks,  and 
are  thus  carried  about  while  tlie  mother  is  at  her  work.  The 
Japanese  are  fond  of  birds.  We  have  seen  some  beautifully 
colored  birds,  inchuhng  white  canaries  which  seemed  to  he 
as  much  at  home  about  the  liouse  as  any  members  of  the 
family. 

Hucksters  carry  througli  the  streets,  in  their  hands,  tiny 
stoves  containing  hve  coals,  and  uncooked  fish  and  vege- 
tal^les,  and  a frying-pan  strai)ped  to  their  shoulders.  They 
cook  on  the  sidewalks,  and  cpiickly  serve  the  food  “piping” 
hot  to  their  (Uistomers.  The  coolies  huddle  around  these 
itinerant  cooks  in  groups,  and  wait  their  turn  for  a meal. 
The  coolies  never  sleep  or  eat  under  a roof.  They  get  their 
food  on  the  street,  and  with  a mat  and  a cotton  sack  they 
seek  a night’s  shelter  in  some  corner  of  a thoroughfare.  A 
little  colony  of  them  sleep  under  the  veranda  of  our  hotel. 


JAPAN  AND  THE  INLAND  SEA. 


35 


A Japanese  mirror  is  a round  plate  of  polislied  steel,  wdtli  a 
short  handle.  A lady  making  her  toilet  has  one  held  before 
lier  by  her  maid.  Tlie  street-barber  and  hair-dresser  in  like 
manner  hold  these  mirrors  for  their  customers.  The  cham- 
ber-work in  the  hotels,  as  well  as  in  private  houses,  is  done 
by  young  Japanese  boys.  They  do  it  (piietly  and  well.  The 
Japanese  are  a race  of  small  but  well-prox)ortioned  people; 
hence  the  small  houses.  They  have  pleasant  faces,  and  are 
naturally  pohte.  In  movement  they  are  not  nngracefnl. 
They  are  called  the  “Parisians  of  the  East.”  The  trees  and 
plants  are  small  in  comparison  with  those  of  onr  country. 
In  artistic  gardening  and  the  cailtivation  of  fruit,  in  this 
country,  everything  is  dwarfed.  I have  seen  fruit-trees  three 
feet  high,  with  their  branches  borne  to  the  ground  with  fruit. 
Evergreens  are  dwarfed  to  two  feet  in  height,  and  trimmed 
in  a variety  of  shapes.  A jinrickshaw,  with  two  coohes,  can 
be  obtained  for  a day  for  fifty  cents.  For  this  pay  the  coohes 
wiU  run  all  day,  stopping  twice  or  thrice  to  get  a cup  of  tea, 
or  a cup  of  sal‘t\  or  some  boiled  rice,  or  raw  fish.  Four 
coolies  will  carry  a person  in  a ’rickshaw  or  a palancpiin  sixty 
miles  in  a day. 

W e have  seen  the  process  of  firing  or  ciuing  tea  for  expor- 
tation. In  Yokohama  there  is  one  house  which  employs  three 
thousand  men  and  women  diuiiig  the  “ curing  ” season,  and 
we  had  the  good  fortune  to  visit  the  place  and  observe  the 
process.  The  men  at  work  wore  only  loin-cloths,  and  the 
women  short,  scant  skirts  reaching  from  their  waists  to  their 
knees.  The  tea-firers  are  paid  twenty-five  cents  for  ten  hours’ 
work.  The  filing  is  a simple  process,  and  quickly  done.  The 
tea  is  partially  sun-diied  at  the  time  of  picking.  In  this  con- 
dition it  is  lit  for  home  consumption.  The  tea  to  be  exported 
is  brought  from  the  country  to  Yokohama  and  Toldo,  where 


36 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEEDIAHS. 


there  are  proper  facilities  for  cmiiig  it.  It  is  tired  in  small 
slieet-u’on  pans  arranged  over  a slow  charcoal  fire?  made  of 
two  or  three  live  coals.  A hrick  furnace  and  a pan  are  as- 
signed to  each  person.  The  pan  contains  three  pounds  of 
tea,  winch  must  he  kept  constantly  in  motion  by  hand  for 
one  lionr.  By  stirring  the  tea  vdth  the  hare  hand  there  is 
no  danger  of  l)nrning  it,  and  therel)y  depriwng  the  leaf  of  its 
life.  The  pan  must  he  cooled  immediately  when  it  becomes 
too  hot  to  1)6  held  in  the  hand.  When  cured  the  tea  is  thromi 
into  large  sieves  l)y  Avhich  the  Ijroken  leaves  and  dust  are 
sifted  out.  The  tea  is  then  placed  in  large  bins,  and  when 
snfliciently  cooled  and  flavored  it  is  ready  for  packing.  The 
dust  of  the  (Med  tea-leaves  is  sent  to  the  United  States  and 
to  other  markets,  where  it  is  used  for  “doctoring”  wines  and 
li(piors.  In  Japan  there  is  l)ut  one  kind  of  tea  grown,  al- 
though there  are  several  grades  of  it.  The  choicest  qualities 
are  not  exported,  but  are  kept  for  home  consumption  in  the 
famihes  of  the  Mandarins.  Tea  of  good  quahty  can  he  bought 
at  piices  varying  from  ten  to  sixty  cents  a pound,  hut  the 
best  tea  is  sold  tor  ten  dollars  a pound.  This  high-priced  tea 
is  flavored  vdth  the  tea-hlossom,  and  the  leaf  is  carefully 
prepared  l)y  hand. 

Another  large  industry  of  Japan  is  the  manufacture  of 
lacquer  ware,  in  which  the  Japanese  excel  the  world.  Laccpier 
ware  is  made  mostly  for  exportation.  I have  been  in  several 
Japanese  houses,  and  the  only  lacquer- work  which  1 have 
seen  in  tlieni  was  a little  cabinet  for  curios.  The  lacquer  is  a 
thick  hcpiid  ol)tained  fi*oni  trees,  which  are  tapped  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  of  a resinous  natmu  and  of  a light 
color.  It  is  reduced  to  the  pro|)er  consistency  by  evaporation, 
and  is  afterward  colored.  This  pecuhar  varnish  is  suscep- 
tiljle  of  a very  high  polish,  and  endures  a long  time.  In  some 


JAPAN  AND  THE  INL.VND  SEA. 


37 


of  tlie  temples  we  have  seen  lacquered  flooring  in  front  of  the 
idols,  and  in  one  we  were  told  that  the  floor  on  which  we 
were  walking  had  been  used  a hundred  years.  The  lacquer 
was  quite  fresh  in  color  and  little  indented  hy  use.  Foreigners 
cannot  hear  the  iinwholesoine  odors  arising  from  the  inann- 
facture  of  the  varnish.  A great  variety  of  lacquer-work  is 
ottered  for  sale  in  all  districts  frequented  hy  strangers.  There 
is  a large  exportation  of  it  to  foreign  countries.  Age  improves 
the  lac(pier-work.  In  the  mannfacture  of  Ijronze  the  Japanese 
greatly  excel.  They  make  the  finest  bronze  knovm  to-day. 
They  have  the  art  of  inlaying  gold,  silver,  and  ivory  in  their 
best  bronze  productions,  thereby  largely  eniiancing  the  heanty 
and  price  of  them.  The  finest  bronze  is  of  a light  iron  color. 
I have  seen  a pair  of  small  vases  the  price  of  which  was 
$1500,  and  they  could  not  he  bought  for  less.  Some  of  the 
costly  bronzes  now  find  their  way  ont  of  the  conntiy,  hut  in 
earher  days  only  the  dainiios  or  princes  possessed  the  best 
which  were  made. 

A day  or  two  ago  we  made  an  excursion  of  twenty  miles 
on  the  Tokaido,  the  graiid  highway  on  the  island  of  Japan. 
This  road  is  five  hundred  miles  long  and  follows  the  coast. 
It  is  broader  than  Broadway,  in  New  York  City,  and  well 
macadamized.  It  is  bordered  on  both  sides  along  its  entire 
extent  by  httle  villages,  and  at  frecpient  intervals  by  tea- 
houses. We  had  the  use  of  a pair  of  horses  a part  of  the 
way.  Short  detours  in  tlie  country  were  made  in  jinrick- 
shaws. The  Japanese  horses  are  ol)stinate  animals.  They 
will  not  start  until  the  bettOj  or  leader,  a man  at  the  liead  of 
each  horse,  jerks  them  smartly  by  their  bits.  The  Ijetto 
then  starts  off  on  a run,  yelhng  and  pulling  the  animal  after 
liini.  When  two  or  three  minntes  have  been  expended  in 
this  kind  of  traiidng,  the  animals  go  along  well  enough. 


38 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


and  tlie  bettos  jump  up  ou  a little  platform  on  tlie  back  of 
the  carriage.  Iii  going  through  villages,  the  bettos  mu  at 
the  heads  of  the  horses,  jumping  and  yelhng.  This  practice 
seems  to  encourage  the  horses.  We  saw  many  Buddhist 
shrines  by  the  roadside.  Ou  one  of  our  detours  we  visited 
the  famous  Temple  of  Diabutsii.  The  description  given  us 
of  this  mammoth  idol  l>y  a Buddhist  priest  in  atteiidauce,  and 
who  acted  as  guide  is  the  following : Diabutsu,  the  colossal 

bronze  idol  at  Kamakura,  is  fifty  feet  high  and  eighty-seven 
feet  ill  circiimtereiice.  The  face  is  eight  and  a halt  feet  long, 
the  eyes  are  three  and  a halt  feet  wide,  the  ears  six  feet  long, 
the  mouth  is  three  feet  wide  and  tlie  nose  foiu*  feet  long.  One 
tliiimb,  stamhug  upright,  is  three  and  a halt  feet  in  circuiii- 
tereiice.  The  knees  are  thirty-four  feet  in  diameter.  The 
tigiire  is  that  of  a man  in  a sitting  position  with  the  legs  turned 
under  the  body  a la  turque  Respecting  the  correctness  of 
the  proportions  of  the  tignre  I cannot  vouch.  Four  of  our 
party  stood  in  the  palm  of  the  hand  of  the  gigantic  idol.  In 
constiucting  it  three  hundred  tons  of  the  finest  bronze  were 
used.  Dialmtsii  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  old,  and  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  sacred  idols  in  the  country. 
Near  by  Diabutsu  we  saw  another  idol,  made  of  gilded 
wood.  It  is  forty-three  feet  high,  and  represents  a man  in 
a standing  position.  It  was,  as  we  were  informed,  erected 
one  thousand  two  Imndred  years  ago.  An  old  woman  served 
as  a guide.  She  blessed  ns  for  the  fee  of  a few  cash,  or  cop- 
jiers,  we  gave  her,  by  rubbing  her  hands  on  the  feet  of  the 
idol,  and  then  placed  the  pahns  on  our  foreheads.  AA e went 
a little  farther  in  the  interior  and  \dsited  the  Shinto  Temple 
filled  with  rich  idols  hawng  niimeroiis  offerings  on  their 
necks  such  as  strings  of  cash  and  long  silk  ribbons  on  the 
ends  of  which  prayers  were  printed.  Near  the  temple  is  a 


•j 


f 


- Ij 

.A 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  DAIBUTSU. 


JAPAN  ANT)  THE  INLAND  WEA. 


39 


larg’e  lirowii  inclosed  stone,  shaded  hy  a japoinca  tree.  The 
stone  is  worshijied  liy  barren  women,  and  l)y  men  and 
women  in  searcli  of  their  affinities,  or  eligible  mates  in  mar- 
riage. All  along  onr  route  we  wei*e  sainted  hy  naked  chil- 
dren, ranging  from  babies  to  children  of  ten  and  twelve  years 
of  age  who,  after  calhng  ont  o-Ji-i-o,  the  Japanese  word  for 
“good-morning,”  tnrned  somersaults  hy  the  dozen  in  the 
road  where  the  dnst  was  deep.  All  tins  was  done  for  a few 
cash,  or  a half-dozen  pennies  for  the  crowd.  A cash  is  the 
least  valnahle  coin  in  Jai)anese  money,  althongh  it  is  not  the 
smallest.  It  is  a piece  of  flat  iron,  circnlar  or  sqnare,  accord- 
ing to  its  valne,  and  about  one  inch  in  (hanieter  and  having 
a hole  in  the  center  throngh  which  a cord  is  passed  for  the 
convenience  of  carrying  tlie  coin  on  the  neck  or  arm.  Ten 
cash  ecpial  one  cent  of  onr  money.  The  naked  httle  children 
ran  after  ns  hy  the  dozen,  turning  over  aiid  over  in  fi'ont  of 
ns,  and  kicking  np  snch  a cloud  of  dnst  that  we  were  glad 
to  hny  them  off  with  a few  cash,  which  freed  ns  from  this 
annoyance  nntil  we  came  to  the  next  village,  where  the 
performance  was  repeated,  and  more  cash  dispensed.  How- 
ever, the  show  continned  the  day  long,  and  we  were  ont  of 
pocket  two  hnndred  cash,  equal  to  twenty  cents  — inncli  sport 
for  little  money.  We  had  the  fanions  monntain  Fnsiama,  fifty 
miles  distant  from  Yokohama,  in  full  sight  all  day.  Tins 
is  the  highest  monntain  in  Japan.  It  is  sacred  in  the  eyes 
of  the  Japanese.  One  fi'eqnently  sees  representations  of  the 
monntain  on  the  lacqner-work  of  their  fans  arid  bronzes. 
( )n  onr  excnrsion  we  observed  everywhere  the  high  cultiva- 
tion of  the  conntry.  Rice,  sweet  potatoes,  and  cotton  seem 
to  he  the  principal  products.  The  foliage  of  the  trees  is  very 
hixnriant.  The  hamhoo,  the  japonica,  and  a species  of 
palm  bear  rich  brown  green  leaves  tinged  with  scarlet.  In 


40 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


the  l)iight  suiilig'lit  this  gorgeous  coloring  seems  to  be  that 
of  bowers.  Little  blue  bowers  frequently  grow  on  the  rice- 
straw  thatcli  of  the  cottages  dotting  the  waysides. 

— — 

Yokohama,  ( )ctol)er  7, 1875.  Yesterday  we  attended  an  ele- 
gant “tiffin”  ill  tlie  Hamagoten  palace,  one  of  the  Mika- 
do’s })alaces  in  Tokio.  Tlie  breakfast,  or  lunch,  was  given  liy 
Yoshimari  Hatakagaina,  a ineinher  of  tlie  Japanese  Caliiiiet, 
in  lioiior  of  Prof.  ]M.,  tlie  (hrector  of  the  Japanese  College  in 
Tokio,  and  his  wife.  There  were  bfty  guests.  Tlie  hour  was 
three  in  the  iifternoon.  There  were  eiglit  ladies  jiresent,  in- 
cluding two  clianning  and  lieautifiil  Japanese  ladies,  who 
appeared  in  rich  toilettes  of  their  country.  Tlie  cuisine  and 
service  of  the  “tiffin”  were  French.  The  iiienii  cards  were 
eight-inch  squares  of  scarlet  paper,  with  the  nieiiii  in  black 
Japanese  hieroglyphics.  Surprising  to  relate,  our  “tiffin” 
had  a sudden  and  terrifying  tennination.  With  our  dessert 
came  an  eartlapiake!  While  coffee  and  fruits  were  being 
served,  a heavy  rumhling  noise  was  heard,  and  in  a second 
of  time  we  were  all  rushing  to  the  doors.  I rememher,  in  my 
great  fright,  of  seeing  in  one  corner  of  the  room  the  timbers 
of  the  ceiling  part,  and  in  the  twdnkliiig  of  au  eye  come 
together  again,  and  the  heavy  bronze  chandeliers  swayed  to 
and  fro,  describing  half  circles.  It  seemed  an  age  before  we 
got  outside  the  Iniildiiig.  One  of  our  party  seemed  more 
composed  than  the  rest.  Later,  when  an  explanation  was 
asked,  he  said  that  he  was  suddenly  reminded  that  twenty- 
three  years  previous  a tenihle  earthquake  had  occurred  in 
Tokio,  destroying  a large  part  of  the  city  and  many  lives, 
and  tliat  the  palace  in  which  we  were  had  not  been  injured 


JAPAN  AN]3  THE  INL.iNH  SEA. 


41 


Ijy  it  or  l)y  iiiiniy  other  eartliquakes.  This  recollection  con- 
tributed a sense  of  security  which  no  other  person  enjoyed. 
However,  the  excitement  was  of  short  duration.  A second 
lighter  shock  was  felt,  and  then  tliere  were  no  other  tremors. 
We  did  not  linger  long  over  our  coffee,  and  took  an  earlier 
train  to  Yokohama  than  we  had  intended  to  take.  Tlie 
earth({nake  seeined  to  be  the  culmination  of  the  typhoon 
which  liad  been  impending  ever  since  we  arrived  in  Japan. 
Fortunateljq  at  the  l)eginning  of  our  visit  we  inspected  the 
grounds  and  the  curious  and  dwarfed  vegetation.  We  saw 
the  “fan  chamber”  of  the  palace.  Tlie  room  was  about  fifty 
feet  square.  The  only  furniture  in  it  was  two  magnificent 
cabinets  of  lac(pier-work  and  foiu*  large  lu-onze  vases.  The 
walls  Avere  covered  with  fans  of  every  shape  and  design. 
This  palace  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Tokio.  It  is  a one-story 
building,  as  are  all  the  palaces  and  the  houses  of  foreign 
residents  and  those  of  foreign  legations.  We  returne<l  to 
Yokohama,  twenty-six  miles  from  Tokio,  with  fear  and 
trembling,  apprehensive  that  a typho(.)ii  might  follow.  Otit 
fears  were  gronndless,  for  we  reached  the  city  safely,  and 
learned  that  only  a higli  Avind  had  swept  over  it  during 
the  afternoon. 

The  city  of  Tokio  covers  an  area  of  territory  nine  miles 
long  and  eight  vdde,  one-eighth  of  Avhich  is  occu})ied  by 
rivers,  canals,  and  the  moat  surrounding  the  castle.  There 
are  many  hirge  gardens  in  it.  All  the  fine  houses  of  foreign 
residents  have  extensive  grounds.  There  are  also  large  un- 
occupied areas  of  ground  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  The 
l)opulation  is  about  789,000.  The  houses  are  not  built  in 
l)locks,  hut  apparently  anyAvhere  to  suit  the  OAvners.  The 
streets  are  not  parallel  nor  straight.  They  turn  and  form 
sharp  and  round  corners.  In  Tokio  one  sees  more  native 


42 


ACKOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


niaiiiiers  and  customs  than  in  Yokohama,  for  it  has  not  so 
large  a foreign  population.  It  has  httle  commerce.  The 
greater  nnmher  of  the  foreign  residents  in  Tokio  belong  to 
the  diplomatic  corps.  The  “commercials”  hve  in  Yokohama. 
There  are  many  temples,  idols,  and  shrines,  l^nt  little  or  no 
business  is  done  in  Tokio. 

Tlie  Japanese  will  not  attempt  to  save  hfe.  They  think  that 
to  rescue  a person  from  death  is  tliwarting  the  purpose  of  the 
lliglier  Power,  and  that  the  rescued  one  can  demand  of  the 
rescuer  life-long  support. 

On  l)oard  the  Neu'  Yorl\  l)onnd  for  Shanghai,  October  13, 
1875.  We  are  at  anchor  in  Similasaki  Bay  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Inland  Sea,  where  we  sliall  remain  for  the  day.  It 
affords  me  great  pleasure  to  write  yon  from  point  to  point,  if 
only  to  give  yon  a faint  idea  of  this  singular  and  strange 
country  we  are  visiting.  But  at  best  1 can  only  inadecpiately 
describe  it,  for  my  letters  concerning  it  must  of  necessity  be 
written  late  at  night  or  early  in  the  morning.  I feel  that  I 
ought  to  give  yon  the  opportunity  to  participate,  even  though 
to  a limited  degree,  in  this  very  interesting  journey. 

Wq  stopped  twenty-four  hours  at  Kohy,  and  made  an 
excursion  to  Osaka,  tAventy  miles  inland,  in  ’rickshaw^s. 
We  traA'ersed  miles  of  naiTow  streets,  some  of  them  no  wider 
than  onr  sidewalks,  and  lined  on  l)oth  sides  with  little  four- 
feet-front  shops.  We  see  no  clinrch  spires  in  this  country; 
rehgions  congregations  meet  in  Tinpretending  buildings. 
The  Japanese  are  sldlled  in  horticulture  and  in  floriculture. 
They  dwarf  forest  trees  to  a foot  in  height,  and  yet  the 
trees  retain  all  their  native  pecuharities.  We  saAV  a variety 
of  fruit-trees  not  more  than  Pvo  feet  high,  hearing  fruit,  but, 
of  course,  (hniinished  in  size.  AYe  also  saw  dvTirfed  trees 


JAPAN  AND  THE  INLAND  SEA. 


43 


with  their  trunks  tlie  natural  size  and  their  l)ranehes  trained 
in  most  nnnsnal  shapes  liy  liaving  l.)een  snlijected  to  l)ind- 
ing  and  curling  when  young.  A great  variety  of  the  cactus 
plant  is  trained  to  grow  in  most  curious  forms. 

We  visited  the  principal  temple,  and  saw  a vddow  at  the 
funeral  service  of  her  deceased  husliand.  She  and  the  priest 
were  kneeling  and  praying  l)efore  an  idol.  The  priest  held 
in  one  hand  a rope,  and  from  time  to  time  rung  some  doleful 
sounds  from  a large  bronze  hell  suspended  over  his  liead.  In 
his  other  hand  he  had  small  pieces  of  wood  and  paper  in- 
scribed with  prayers.  As  he  consecutively  read  the  prayers, 
he  laid  the  pieces  of  wood  and  paper  severally  on  the  door. 
As  each  prayer  was  dnished  the  mourning  widow  woidd 
throw  down  several  cash.  The  widow  arose  to  leave,  Imt  tlie 
priest  rung  tlie  hell,  and  she  again  kneeled,  and  threw  down 
a few  more  cash.  At  last  the  service  was  dnished.  The 
widow  went  away  mournfully,  and  the  airiest  turned  to  us 
with  a salutation  and  departed  laughing.  The  houses  in 
Osaka  are  colored  either  white  or  black  vdth  prepared  hme. 
We  stopped  before  the  open  door  of  a public  bath-house,  in 
which  we  saw  men,  women,  and  chikh'en  in  a great  vat  of 
cold  water.  The  men  were  separated  from  the  women  l)y  a 
wooden  fence  not  higher  than  their  shoulders.  The  men 
came  to  the  door  where  we  were  stamhng  to  diy  themselves 
in  the  sun,  wearing  only  their  loin-cloths.  The  women 
sought  the  sun  by  another  door,  and  we  saw  them  no 
more.  It  was  a strange  sight  to  see  men  in  the  streets  wear- 
ing a blouse  open  in  front,  with  only  a rope  girdle  keeping  it 
close  to  their  waists,  the  skirt  raised  and  tucked  in  the  rope. 
Clothing  evidently  is  a burden  to  them.  We  came  on  lioard 
our  steamer  before  night,  and  started  early  the  next  morning 
tor  the  Inland  Sea,  tln*ough  which  the  voyage  to  China,  or  at 


44 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


least  a good  part  of  it,  is  very  enjoyable.  With  mountains 
and  valleys  on  both  sides  of  the  sea,  and  niimerons  large  and 
small  islands  in  it,  tlie  scenery  is  pictimesqne.  Beyond  the 
valleys  we  could  see  at  times  the  open  sea  and  on  each  side 
of  the  channel  both  shores.  The  scenery  combines  that  of 
Lake  Greorge,  the  (Irecian  archipelago,  and  the  Scottish  lakes. 
As  all  of  these  were  familiar  to  us,  we  could  make  fair  com- 
l)arisons.  There  ai*e  large  and  small  towns  all  along  the 
shores  of  the  lidand  Sea.  With  certain  winds  the  passage 
cannot  l^e  made  on  acconnt  of  the  rocks  which  jnt  tar  out 
into  the  water. 

October  14th.  We  were  on  deck  early  this  morning  to  see 
the  sun  rise,  and  the  entrance  to  the  channel,  which  is  a 
narrow  pass  just  wide  enough  to  admit  the  steamer.  Coffee 
and  toast  were  served  to  us  on  deck.  With  the  picturesque 
shore  for  background,  the  steamer  and  the  people  on  deck 
formed  an  attractive  tableau.  The  passengers  grouped 
around  the  simple  repast  at  the  bow,  the  half -naked  Jax)anese 
of  the  crew  seated  on  coils  of  rope,  the  mountains  dotted 
with  wliite  temples  and  little  villages,  the  rising  sun  suffusing 
the  sky  with  roseate  hue  and  tinging  the  narrow  channel 
through  which  we  were  j^assing  with  a golden  hue,  all  com- 
bined to  make  the  scene  a memorable  one. 

Himilasaki  is  a closed  x>ort  to  foreigners.  They  can  only 
enter  it  by  ijermission  of  the  Government.  No  steamers 
exce]3t  those  in  the  Japanese  service  can  anchor  off  this  j^ort. 
There  is  only  one  house  occiq)ied  by  Europeans  in  this  city 
of  a pox3ulation  of  five  hiincLed  thousand.  The  bnikhng  is  a 
telegra}3h  station  immediately  within  the  city  hmits.  Onr 
party  of  four  and  the  cai)tain,  a Massachusetts  man,  are  the 
only  Americans  on  l)oard;  the  others  are  Japanese. 


JAPAN  AND  THE  INLAND  SEA. 


45 


AGASAKi,  October  15, 1875.  We  left  Similasaki  yesterday 


and  aiTived  here  early  this  morning.  The  voyage  from 
Yokohama  to  Shanghai,  inclnding  the  stoppages  at  ports  on 
the  way,  occupies  one  week.  We  were  only  ont  of  sight  of 
land  for  thirty  hours,  and  that  was  when  we  were  crossing 
the  Yellow  Sea.  It  was  a delightful  voyage  to  make,  ad- 
vancing ns  on  the  grand  torn*  twelve  hundred  ndles.  We 
have  a full  moon,  and  enjoyed  sitting  on  deck  until  a-  late 
hour.  We  have  liad  many  opportunities  for  ohser\dng  the 
Japanese  and  the  Chinese,  both  in  high  and  low  stations. 
They  are  u-repressible  travelers,  hke  our  people,  and  we  meet 
them  ever3Twhere. 

Nagasaki  is  an  open  port,  and  we  went  ashore  without 
the  delay  of  official  formalities.  One  Japanese  city  is  like 
another.  There  is  little  or  no  variation  of  architecture,  nor 
in  the  street  scenes.  Nagasaki  is  noted  for  its  shell-work 
and  the  manufacture  of  porcelain.  We  visited  a (jodoini,  and 
saw  a large  collection  of  beautiful  porcelain.  A godown  is  a 
storehouse  where  all  fine  goods  are  stored,  and  from  which 
they  are  taken  in  small  quantities  to  meet  the  demands  of 
the  retailers.  The  merchants  have  access  to  the  godown  at 
all  times.  Groods  of  much  value  are  placed  in  these  store- 
houses at  night.  The  godowns  are  conspicuous  buildings. 
They  are  painted  black,  and  rise  above  the  low  one-story 
houses.  A godown  may  be  three  or  four  stories,  each  one  of 
which  is  not  more  than  six  feet  high.  Small  ladders  sidi- 
stitute  stairs.  The  porcelain  is  beautiful,  and  vies  with 
egg-shells  in  thinness.  1 saw  lovely  cups,  clear  white,  with 
handles  having  the  colors  of  precious  stones.  This  ware  is 
made  largely  for  exportation.  The  scenery  about  the  harbor 
is  very  attractive.  On  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are  white- 
washed temples.  Little  villages  of  hamlioo  houses  are  seen. 


46 


ACKOSS  THE  MEKEDIANS. 


here  and  there  embowered  in  the  green  and  fresli  fohage  of 
fine  old  trees. 

Nagasaki  is  a station  for  foreign  ships  of  war.  The  man- 
ner of  loading  vessels  with  coal  is  rather  primitive.  The 
coal  is  passed  in  small  baskets  along  a line  of  men,  women, 
and  chikh*en,  each  handler  grunting  as  the  baskets  are  trans- 
ferred by  him  to  the  one  next.  Since  the  opening  of  the 
ports  of  Japan  to  foreign  vessels  some  of  the  barbarous  cus- 
toms of  the  people  have  been  abandoned,  among  which  is 
han'Ji(m\  although  this  frightful  way  of  committing  suicide 
is  still  practiced  occasionally  in  some  parts  of  the  interior. 
Going  out  of  the  Inland  Sea  we  passed  by  the  island  of  Pap- 
penlnu'g,  where  was  enacted  two  hundred  years  ago  that 
dreadful  tragedy  of  precipitating  four  thousand  Christians 
from  the  top  of  a large  rock  into  the  sea.  The  Romjin 
Catholic  rehgion  once  had  (piite  a foothold  in  this  country, 
causing  jealousies  to  arise  on  the  part  of  the  Japanese.  The 
Government  undertook  to  su})press  this  rehgion,  and  made 
prisoners  of  all  the  Christians,  most  of  whom  were  natives, 
and  carried  them  to  this  island  and  then  drove  them  over  the 
edge  of  the  precipitous  rock  into  the  sea.  Not  one  escaped. 


V 

and  fhe  Chinem.  SJainfihai. 

SHANGHAI,  China,  October  18, 1875.  We  arrived  here  yester- 
day, after  a week  of  delightful  voyaging,  and  have  seen 
many  interesting  things  of  which  to  wilte  yon  if  I only  had 
the  time.  We  were  a day  and  a half  in  crossing  the  Yellow 
Sea.  lYben  we  entered  it  some  mare-tail  clouds  were  in  the 
sky,  and  were  the  forerunner  of  a sharp  wind  which  lilew 
for  a few  hours  and  somewhat  delayed  us.  Our  staunch 
little  ship,  however,  weathered  the  gale  safely.  The  name, 
YeUow  Sea,  is  no  misnomer.  The  waters  are  as  yellow  as 
the  sands  on  its  coast.  We  ascended  the  Yangtsee  River 
for  about  foily  miles.  Its  shores  are  flat  and  uninteresting. 
There  is  but  little  vegetation  along  the  stream.  Its  banks 
appear  to  be  occupied  l)y  ranges  of  brick  burial  mounds. 
On  onr  arrival  we  learned  that  the  only  hotel  for  foreigners 
was  filled  from  cellar  to  garret.  The  captain  of  the  j\"ew 
YorJi  kindly  invited  us  to  remain  on  board  during  the 
anchorage  of  the  vessel  in  the  harbor.  We  accepted  the 
imdtation,  which  relieved  us  of  much  inconvenience,  for  we 
expect  to  sail  for  Hong  Kong  the  same  day  the  vessel  leaves 
the  harbor.  To  be  on  a fine  ship  cabled  to  a dock,  with  the 
cabin  service  at  our  command,  is  certaiidy  enjoyable.  Scores 


47 


48 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


of  Chinese  junks  he  al)out  ns  alive  with  women  and  children. 
The  smaller  chikh*en  are  prevented  from  falling  overboard 
by  being  tied  to  ropes  just  long  enough  to  let  them  crawl 
the  width  of  the  junks.  They  look  hke  great  caterpillars  as 
they  crawl  about  the  boats.  All  the  movemeiits  of  the  entire 
family  on  these  open,  cahinless  boats  are  observable  to  us. 
Their  occupants  protect  themselves  from  the  rain  and  night 
air  by  coveiings  of  oiled  x>aper  and  matting.  Their  cooking 
utensils  are  a small  charcoal  furnace  and  a rice-pot.  The 
table  appointments  are  a wooden  howl  and  chop-sticks  for 
the  adults,  the  children  using  their  fingers.  It  is  amusing 
to  see  these  creatures  eat  their  food.  Their  hfe  is  only  one 
remove  from  that  of  animals.  The  Chinese  have  peranil)u- 
lating  barbers  and  give  careful  attention  to  dressing  the  hair, 
as  do  the  Japanese. 

This  morning  we  attended  religious  services  within  the 
city  walls,  conducted  by  Dr.  Y.,  a missionary  of  twenty  years’ 
residence  here.  There  were  about  a hundred  people  present, 
mostly  natives,  who  appeared  greatly  interested.  They  all 
joined  in  singing  the  hymns.  As  the  Chinaman  has  no  idea 
of  harmony,  the  singing  was  not  so  had,  although  it  seemed 
to  be  done  in  as  many  different  keys  as  there  were  singers. 
At  the  close  of  the  service,  a decrepit  old  Chinaman  exam- 
ined five  candidates  for  baptism,  all  women.  When  the 
examination  was  hnislied,  the  pulpit  was  removed  and  a 
baptistery  was  disclosed,  in  which  the  rite  of  baptism  was 
performed  by  the  old  Chinaman.  Dr.  Y.  informed  us  that 
lie  had  sixty-five  communicants  after  twenty  years  of  labor, 
hut  that  he  could  not  vouch  for  their  Christian  fidelity 
were  he  to  he  asked  to  speak  concerning  it. 

Shanghai  is  inclosed  by  a high  wall,  foiu’  miles  in  circuni- 
ference.  The  city  has  a population  of  five-hundred  thousand. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  SHANGHAI. 


49 


No  foreigner  is  allowed  to  reside  mtliin  its  walls.  Foreign- 
ers occupy  tlie  “concession  gronnd”  outside  the  city.  In 
the  concession  a large  nnndier  of  residents  are  engaged  in 
various  pursuits  of  trade  and  connnei'ce.  The  streets  of  tlie 
city  are  ahont  ten  feet  vdde,  and  are  paved  with  large  scpiai*e 
stones.  These  narrow  thoronghfares  are  very  dirty,  and  fnll 
of  disgusting  sights  and  smells.  There  are  no  sidewalks. 
The  houses  on  the  princi})al  streets  are  used  for  shops. 
There  are  no  vdndows  on  the  lirst  floors  of  the  hull  dings. 
The  entire  froid  is  open  during  the  day,  and  closed  liy  lieavy 
lattice-work  at  idght.  The  merchant  lives  in  the  second 
story,  which  is  only  a loft,  or  rough  shelter  for  tlu'  family. 
The  streets  are  shaded  hy  large  oiled-paper  signs  suspended 
from  the  nppei'  part  of  the  houses  and  extended  across  the 
street.  These  signs  enumerate  the  articles  on  sate,  with 
them  prices,  and  the  particular  indncianents  offered  l)y  the 
dift'erent  shop-keepers.  The  streets  are  filled  with  idlcrrs. 
Tlie  only  conveyances  are  sedan-chairs  carried  hy  coolies. 
In  the  Enro])ean  concession  small  ponies  are  employed  for 
transiKirtation.  The  vehicles  used  are  called  “traps,”  a name 
borrowed  from  the  English.  The  favorit(‘  conveyance  in 
Shanghai  is  a whetdharrow,  vdth  the  wheel  in  its  center  and 
on  each  side  of  it  a seat.  The  vehicle  is  wheeled  hy  a C'oolie. 
ATe  have  ridden  in  many  kinds  of  carriages,  Imt  never  until 
now  on  a wheelharrow.  There  is  no  particular  cpiarter  where' 
the  rich  merchants  live.  Their  houses  are  interspersed  with 
those  of  the  i>oor,  and  they  hve  over  their  o^vn  shops  in  a 
very  Iminhle  way.  They  endeavor  to  conceal  their  riches,  and 
often  l)iiry  then*  money  in  the  gronnd  in  some  spot  known 
only  to  themselves.  If  they  did  not  do  this,  a large  part  of 
their  proi)erty  would  he  demanded  for  tribute.  Wlien  a rich 
Chinaman  is  “tracked”  hy  the  Government,  and  his  pos- 


50 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIAHS. 


sessions  discovered,  the  greater  part  of  his  wealth  is  appro- 
priated hy  it.  We  have  (Mven  on  the  “Bubbling  Well 
Road,”  which  derives  its  name  from  a boiling  spring  three 
miles  from  the  city,  in  the  concession  district.  The  road 
is  macadamized  and  is  as  smooth  as  a floor.  There  are 
many  heantifnl  villas  along  it  occupied  hy  foreigners. 

Along  the  road  are  nnmerons  hnrial  mounds  and  small 
cemeteries.  The  Inirial  places  are  located  according  to  the 
edicts  of  the  Fen(j-Sltui^  and  which  oftentimes  greatly  incon- 
venience the  foreign  residents.  The  Feng-Slmi,  as  I am 
informed,  is  an  anthority  permitting  things  to  he  done.  For 
instance,  a lionse  cannot  he  built,  a flagpole  raised,  a wall 
pulled  down,  the  dead  buried, — in  fact,  nothing  can  he  done 
vflthont  the  consent  of  the  Feng-Slmi,  whose  decisions  are 
rendered  at  pleasiire,  or  for  a consideration.  If  a request  is 
made  l>y  a foreigner,  the  consideration  is  commensurate  to 
his  ap])arent  station  and  means.  The  request  of  a China- 
man requires  close  investigation,  in  order  to  learn  how 
mnch  he  can  pay  for  the  license.  For  thirty  years  foreigners 
have  I>een  trying  to  discover  jiist  what  the  Feng-Slmi  is,  for 
frequent  collisions  occur  in  then*  commercial  interests,  and 
they  vdsh  to  oldain  some  idea  of  this  system  of  decree  in 
order  to  act  intelligently,  hut  all  in  vain.  The  decree  is 
oidy  applicable  to  each  individual  case.  The  more  intelli- 
gent natives  can  oifly  say  it  means  wind  and  water,  and 
is  so  named  ])ecanse  it  is  like  the  wind,  for  yon  cannot  tell 
whence  it  conies,  and  like  water,  for  yon  cannot  grasp  it. 
The  Feng-Slmi  was  established  in  the  year  1200.  Foreigners 
experience  much  annoyance  on  account  of  this  nnreason- 
ahle  and  whimsical  use  of  anthority.  A man  wishing  to  buy 
a,  })iece  of  land,  or  to  establisli  himself  in  business,  asks  the 
consent  of  the  official  at  the  “high  court.”  If  he  does  not 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  SHANGHAI. 


51 


wish  to  grant  the  request,  he  simply  hows  jiolitely  and 
declares  on  account  of  the  I^^eng-Slnu  it  is  inipossilde.  How- 
ever, a second  appeal,  accompanied  with  an  increased  con- 
sideration, is  more  graciously  heard,  and,  after  a private 
consnltation  with  another  official,  the  request  is  granted. 
Frequently  the  Feng-Shni  permits  hnrial  inonnds  of  natives 
to  be  constructed  in  close  proximity  to  the  homes  of 
foreigners,  and  their  only  redi’ess  is  to  get  permission  to 
hnild  a high  wall  around  their  residences  and  gardens.  The 
little  cemeteries  are  thickly  scattered  around  these  pretty 
villas,  often  very  near  their  entrances.  The  Feng-Shni  is 
very  comphant,  and  may  be  induced  to  consent  to  almost 
anything,  but  concessions  are  always  to  be  paid  tor.  A near 
view  of  these  burial  nioimds  is  not  agreeable.  Sometimes  a 
dead  body  in  a box  rests  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The 
box  is  covered  with  matting  or  straAv,  held  down  by  stones 
heaped  on  it.  The  lime  thrown  on  the  body  quickly  destroys 
the  odors,  and  decomposes  the  Hesli  and  bones.  It  the  body 
is  placed  on  a pile  of  stones  or  earth,  without  being  inclosed 
in  a l)Ox,  lime  is  thrown  over  the  remains,  and  then  oidy 
matting  or  canvas  is  used  as  a covering,  and  this  is  held 
down  by  stones  or  bricks.  During  onr  drive  on  the  Bnb- 
Iding  Well  Road  we  saw  the  bones  of  the  dead  projecting 
from  this  insufficient  covering.  Such  disgusting  sights  are 
constantly  seen  in  the  sidmrbs  of  Shanghai,  and  the  foreign 
residents  must  endure  them.  There  is  no  prospect  of  their 
abohtion,  since  the  Feng-Shni  permits  them.  Until  foreign 
inllnence  began  to  prevail  in  China  childinn  were  not  buried. 
They  were  simply  thrown  on  some  waste  spot  of  ground  and 
covered  with  lime.  Whatever  was  left  nndecomijosed  l)y 
the  lime  was  washed  away  l)y  rain.  Now  they  bury  chil- 
dren more  decently.  A large  pit  is  dug,  and  covered  with  a, 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEEDIANS. 


52 

l)aml)oo  roof.  The  body  is  boimd  in  matting  or  canvas, 
and  thrown  into  the  pit,  with  lime  enongli  to  decompose 
the  corpse  quickly.  When  one  pit  is  filled  another  is  dug. 
We  saw  along  the  Bid)l)ling  Well  Boad  what  appeared  to 
])o  a family  cemetery.  In  it  were  a donl)le  box,  three  single 
and  two  diminutive  boxes.  The  larger  ones  were  partially 
covered  with  brick,  the  smaller  ones  with  matting.  These 
boxes  were  within  two  rods  of  the  door  of  a pretty 
villa.  The  custom  of  burying  the  l)oxes  out  of  sight  is 
just  being  introduced  in  some  parts  of  China.  Were  it 
not  tor  tlie  use  of  hme,  the  Chinese  mode  of  l^nrying  the 
dead  would  cause  ])estilence  to  reign  thronghont  the  Empire. 

Perhaps  yon  will  remember  Mrs.  U.,  your  father’s  Welsh 
cousin,  whom  we  wsited  in  Wales  several  years  ago.  She 
used  to  go  to  sea  occasionally  vdth  her  husband,  who  was  a 
captain  in  the  English  merchant  serwce.  On  a voyage  she  gave 
l)irth  to  a daughter  in  the  haii)or  of  Shanghai.  She  named  the 
l)al)y  “Mary,  tlie  far  East;”  and  on  another  voyage  another 
dangiiter  was  l)orn  at  the  Sandwich  Islands.  She  named  her 
“Jane,  the  far  West.”  Little  did  I dream  when  she  told  me 
of  these  episodes  in  her  life  that  I should  ever  see  Shanghai. 
Some  <lay,  perhaps,  we  may  find  ourselves  at  the  Saiidvfich 
Islands.  A novel  sight  to  us  is  that  of  men  carrying  fans, 
which  they  use  tor  sunshades  when  desiral>le.  Wdieii  the  fan 
is  not  in  use  it  is  placed  at  the  l>ack  of  the  neck,  under  the 
blouse,  until  one  end  piujecting  beyond  the  right  ear.  The 
Ciiinamen  know  how  to  use  the  fan  quite  as  coquettishly  as 
do  our  ladies  at  home.  We  do  not  see  many  women  in  the 
streets.  Now  and  then  a sedan-chair  goes  by  with  the  cur- 
tains ih*awii  down,  causing  us  to  imagine  a woman  to  he 
secluded  by  them. 

The  junks  in  the  harbor  are  alive  with  women  and 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  SHANGHAI. 


e53 


cliildi*eii  wlio  seem  to  l)e  scarcely  two  removes  from  the 
progenitors  of  Man,  judging  l>y  tlie  Darwin  theory.  These 
iioat-women  wear  the  merest  apology  for  a dress.  Their  feet 
grow  to  the  natural  size.  Only  the  higher  class  of  women 
have  cramped  and  distorted  feet,  causing  them  to  wall':  with 
great  difficnlty;  the  l^inding  of  the  feet  causes  a gait  simihir 
to  walking  on  stilts.  The  social  status  of  a Chinese  woman 
is  determined  somewhat  by  the  size  of  her  feet.  If  they  have 
been  l)OTind  np  and  crani|)ed  at  an  early  age,  they  indicate 
that  the  woman  is  of  liigli  degree,  and  has  never  ])een  coni- 
pelle<l  to  perform  any  niaimal  labor.  Tlie  women  destined  to 
be  chihh'en’s  nnrses  have  feet  ahont  half  the  natural  length, 
and  walk  with  an  nnsteady  gait.  The  Chinese  have  not  the 
attractive  faces  and  manners  of  the  Japanese.  The  Japanese 
look  jolly  and  coquettish,  while  the  Chinamen  seem  never  to 
smile. 

In  Shanghai  the  punishment  for  steahng  is  crnelly  severe. 
Yonr  father  was  present  the  other  day  at  the  trial  of  a China- 
man for  stealing  a tew  cash.  The  man  was  found  gnilty, 
and  sentenced  to  receive  two  hnndred  blows.  The  punish- 
ment was  at  once  administered.  He  was  stripped  liare  and 
laid  npon  the  lioor.  A stout  man  gave  him  lifty  blows  with 
a heavy  piece  of  l)aml)oo  on  the  liack  and  legs.  A second 
lickster  gave  him  fifty  more,  a third  fifty  more,  and  finally 
the  fourth  finished  the  two  hnndred.  The  man  did  not  utter 
a groan  until  the  last  fifty  blows  were  commenced.  Then  the 
judge  cried  ont,  “Harder!  harder!”  When  all  tlie  blows  had 
been  inflicted,  the  criminaTs  bleeding  and  swollen  flesh  was 
dressed  with  salt  and  water.  Then  he  was  ordered  to  leave 
the  place.  The  only  recourse  for  this  suffering  and  l)lee<Ung 
Imnian  heing  was  to  go  into  the  streets  and  beg  his  living,  or 
to  lie  down  and  die  of  starvation. 


54 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEEDIANS. 


HANGHAi,  October  21, 1875.  This  afternoon  we  shall  go  on 


board  the  Geelong^  of  the  Peninsular  & Oriental  Steani- 
sliip  Company.  The  steamer  leaves  early  to-morrow  morn- 
ing for  Hong  Kong.  The  voyage  is  made  in  three  days.  We 
have  enjoyed  our  week  on  board  the  New  York,  or  the  Tokio 
Maru,  as  the  ship  is  called  in  Japanese.  A nmnber  of  per- 
sons residing  in  the  city  called  upon  ns,  and  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  forming  some  charming  acquaintances  there. 
The  eh ow -chow,  the  Japanese  word  for  food,  on  shipboard 
was  good.  Oiu‘  little  party  of  fom*  has  had  a very  happy  stay 
in  the  harbor  of  Shanghcd.  Many  thanks  to  the  captain 
of  tlie  New  York  for  his  kindness.  We  have  letters  to  mail 
to  you  and  others  at  home,  but  as  the  mail  service  is  not 
so  rehable  here  as  it  is  at  Hong  Kong,  we  shall  send  our 
letters  from  there. 

On  board  the  Geehmg,  October  24, 1875.  We  left  Shanghai 
on  the  22d  inst.  and  are  now  within  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  of  Hong  Kong.  We  have  had  fine  saihng  so  far,  hav- 
ing been  favored  by  the  north-west  monsoon.  Ourselves 
and  two  friends  from  Syi*acnse,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  W.,  are  the  oidy 
passengers.  Each  passenger  has  a cabin,  which  adds  much 
to  oiu*  comfort  in  this  tropical  chmate.  The  accommodations 
for  sea-water  bathing  are  exceUeiit.  We  have  had  onr  fii*st 
experience  with  punkas,  or  large  fans.  They  are  suspended 
over  the  table  in  the  cabin  and  make  a delightful  circulation 
of  ail*.  They  are  operated  by  Hindoo  boys  sitting  on  the 
fioor,  dressed  in  white  hnen  blouses,  nothing  more.  By  pull- 
ing the  cords  the  fans  are  moved.  When  the  boys  become 
tired  with  using  tbeii*  hands,  they  tie  the  cords  to  their  big 
toes,  and,  lying  down  upon  the  fioor  at  full  length,  keep 
the  punkas  Hying  by  swinging  their  feet.  If  the  punka- 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  SHANGHAI. 


55 

l)oys  cliaiice  to  fall  asleep,  the  stewards,  by  an  iiipiressive 
movement  of  the  foot,  start  them  into  a stcite  of  wakefulness, 
and  to  a eonsciousness  of  their  reniissness,  and  tlie  vilirations 
of  the  pimkas  begin  again.  We  have  accomplished  seven 
thousand  miles  of  om*  tour  since  lea\dng  San  Francisco,  and 
1 have  oidy  been  annoyed  for  a few  hours  vuth  symptoms  of 
seasickness,  l)ut  not  to  prevent  my  regulai*  a])pearance  af 
meals. 

One  of  the  favorite  vegetalile  preparations  on  the  Gee- 
loufj  is  a dish  of  hashed  vegetables  fried  with  salt  pork.  It 
is  called  “Imhlile  and  squeak.”  It  is  a breakfast  dish  and 
i*eally  is  very  palatal  de.  We  have  an  Australian  cow  on 
hoard  which  supplies  us  with  fresh  milk.  The  captain  and 
the  first  officer  are  very  companionahle  gentlemen.  They 
are  at  our  serffice  socially  at  dinner,  and  on  deck  in  the  even- 
ing. The  deck  has  been  illuminated  vdth  Clhnese  lanterns 
for  two  evenings.  The  waiin  weather  and  smooth  sea  have 
made  the  evenings  very  enjoy  aide.  On  the  first  evening  out 
we  instituted  a story-telling  club,  accompanied  with  singing. 
The  club  met  again  this  evening.  We  have  taught  the  Eng- 
lishmen something,  and  in  turn  we  have  learned  much  from 
them.  We  have  good  roast  beef  with  Yorkshii*e  |)ud(hng  and 
plenty  of  fresh  fruit.  We  find  no  fault  with  the  chow-chow 
on  the  Geeloiuj. 


VI 


Hoti<l  Koiif/  and  Caafoii. 


ONG  Kong,  Octol^er  20,  1875.  Wo  iimved  here  yester- 


day oil  seliediile  time,  after  a chamiiiig-  voyage  of  three 
days,  land  lieiiig  in  sight  most  of  the  way.  We  were  dread- 
ing this  part  of  onr  journey,  for  we  had  heard  that  the  sea 
was  often  very  rongli  off  the  Chinese  coast.  We  do  not 
want  to  anticipate  what  may  lie  in  store  tor  ns  before  we 
finish  onr  wanderings,  so  we  only  th’eain  of  fine  weather  and 
smooth  seas  for  the  rest  of  tlie  way.  Tlie  English  niail- 
steaniers  from  Bomliay  to  China  and  Japan,  on  account  of 
the  length  of  the  voyage,  carry  consideralile  live  stock,  such  as 
beeves,  sheep,  chickens,  and  pigs,  in  order  to  have  always  on 
hand  fresh  meat  for  the  crew  and  passengers.  We  are  com- 
fortably housed  at  the  Hotel  de  1’  Univers,  conducted  on  the 
Erench  system,  with  Chinese  service. 

We  are  now  ten  thousand  miles  from  home,  and  I am 
not  conwnced  that  “chstance  lends  enchantment”  to  foreign 
countries,  for  here,  as  elsewhere  on  tlie  globe,  we  see 
hnmanity  struggling  for  life.  The  island  of  Hong  Kong  is  a 
British  possession,  and  a British  governor-general  resides 
on  it.  It  is  sitnafed  very  iniich  as  the  island  of  Swa,  in 
the  Grecian  archipelago — upon  a series  of  eminences  over- 


56 


HONG-KONG. 


HONG  KONG  AND  CANTON. 


07 

looking  the  sea..  Sedan-clmirs  are  used  for  (‘.onveyances ; 
the  sti'eets  are  too  steep  for  carriages.  I have  seen  no  liorses 
in  the  city.  This  morning  we  visited  the  pnhhc  gardens, 
in  which  we  saw  tine  s])eciniens  of  richly  colored  Oriental 
shrubbery,  dowers,  frnits,  and  many  varieties  of  spice-trees. 
Exotics,  cnltivated  so  carefnlly  in  hot-houses  in  the  United 
States,  grow  here  in  raidv  hixnriance.  Beautiful  varicdies  of 
orchids  are  (piite  common  here. 

Hong  Kong  is  overlooked  l\y  Victoria  Monntain  rising 
from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  two  thonsarid  feet.  The  gov- 
ernor and  chief-justice  have  bungalows  on  the  summit  of  the 
monntain.  The  island  is  nine  miles  long  and  three  wide. 
The  city  is  a free  ])ort.  The  po|)ulation  of  Hong  Kong  is 
one  hundred  and  twenty-dve  thousand,  including  six  thou- 
sand English  and  one  hundred  and  dfty  Ameilcans. 

1 will  make  this  a “circidar”  letter  and  add  another  sheet 
or  two,  hoping  it  will  he  worth  the  ])Ostage,  as  it  goes  around 
the  family  circle.  Thus  far  our  travels  have  been  replete 
with  pleasant  incidents  and  striking  novelties,  and  yet  every 
day  we  leave  something  undone.  The  opportunities  of  visiting 
China  are  rare,  and  we  want  to  get  all  the  instruction  and 
pro  tit  possible  while  here.  1 find,  however,  that  I roh  myself 
of  many  hours  of  sight-seeing  in  order  to  have  our  dear  friends 
at  home  enjoy  with  ns  onr  daily  and  most  interesting  experi- 
ences. If  you  can  follow  us  in  our  wanderings  with  some 
interest,  I shall  count  it  no  loss  of  time  to  describe  them  in 
part.  As  I wuite  always  “on  the  wing,”  I have  no  time  to 
decorate  my  letters  with  the  flower  of  rhetoric,  or  indidge 
in  nincli  sentimentahty.  I can  only  tell  the  actualities  of  our 
daily  life. 

The  sedan-cliair  is  a very  convenient  vehicle  in  which  to 
be  carried.  For  a short  excursion  two  coolies  siiffice,  hut  for 


58 


ACEOSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


a liaLt'-day’s  drive  four  are  needed.  They  start  off  at  a pretty 
fast  gait  and  keep  it  steadily  for  hours.  They  keep  step  so 
that  the  movement  is  a gentle  swa3dng,  and  not  a jolting  and 
jerking  one.  If  there  are  several  chairs  in  the  excursion  the 
coolies  keep  pretty  close  together,  and  the  whole  gang  main- 
tain the  same  step.  This  steady  and  regular  tread  sounds  like 
the  cad<mced  footfall  of  a company  of  soldiers.  The  coolies 
wear  straw  sandals  tied  on  their  feet  and  a loose  smock-frock. 
Tlieir  legs  and  arms  are  hare.  Their  noticeable  “])ig-tails”hang 
lialf-way  down  to  their  heels.  The  coohes  of  Cliina  do  not 
tattoo;  they  clothe  tliemselves  more  than  those  of  Japan.  For  a 
day’s  excursion  they  cairy  a change  of  clothing.  They  per- 
s|)ire  very  freely  on  a warm  day,  and  they  change  their  lilonses 
from  time  to  time,  hanging  the  wet  ones  on  tlie  poles  of  the 
sedan-chairs  to  dry.  When  they  wish  to  change  their  blouses, 
they  set  dovm  the  cliair  vdth  its  occupant,  and  in  a second 
they  liave  acconi]ihslied  their  purpose.  Then  they  take  up 
tlie  chan*  and  move  on  for  another  hour  or  two,  when  another 
change  of  blouse  takes  place.  They  wear  short  breeches,  and 
can  vuth  pro]iriety  change  tlieir  lilouses  hi  the  presence  of 
their  passengers. 

Tlie  streets  of  Hong  Kong  are  about  twenty  feet  wide,  and 
are  clean  and  smooth.  They  are  steep  in  many  places.  Shops 
jut  out  on  the  sides  of  the  thoroiighfares.  One  of  the  princi- 
] lal  industries  of  Hong  Kong  is  ivory-cutting.  Every  imagiii- 
al)le  thing,  ranging  from  a Cliinese  idol  to  a tooth-pick,  is  to 
he  found  here  in  carved  ivory.  The  ivory  pagodas  and  canl- 
cases  for  exportation  are  really  gems  of  beauty,  excpiisitely 
line  and  dainty. 

We  have  had  the  pleasure  of  “tiffining”  with  our  consul- 
general,  and  also  have  dined  vdth  the  English  jurist,  Chief- 
Justice  S.,  at  his  Iningalow  on  Victoria  Mountain.  We 
were  a party  of  hve,  and  our  train,  live  clndrs  and  twenty 


HONG  KONG  ANX)  CANTON. 


59 


coolies,  pi’esented  a very  ])icturesque  appearance  while  as- 
cending the  niountain.  As  we  stopped  now  and  then  and 
alighted  to  get  \dews  of  the  snrronnding  conntry,  the 
coohes  threw  themselves  upon  the  grass  hy  the  wayside 
to  rest.  We  thought  we  had  already  seen  the  most  wonder- 
ful and  heantifnl  scenery  in  the  world,  l)nt  we  found  here 
views,  if  not  surpassing  all  the  others  previously  enjoyed  hy 
ns,  at  least  as  grand,  although  of  a different  type.  From 
this  high  point  we  saw  spread  out  l)eneath  ns  the  Canton  or 
Pearl  River,  with  scores  of  native  villages  scattered  along 
its  banks ; pagodas  witli  their  red  and  gilded  hells ; white- 
washed temples,  their  painted  red  pinnacles  glistening  in 
the  afternoon  snnlight ; a wide  expanse  of  sea ; and  to  the 
northward,  monntains  looming  along  the  horizon ; Hong 
Kong  with  its  countless  and  nniqiie  hnildings ; its  narrow 
and  wimhng  streets  stretching  far  up  the  steep  sides  of 
Victoria  Mountain  iTinning  into  narrower  mountain  paths 
covered  with  white  sand ; the  heantifnl  villas  and  gardens  of 
the  English  Colony  nestling  close  to  the  sea-shore ; the  ship- 
l)ing  in  the  liarhor  floating  the  flags  of  many  nations,  and 
linndreds  of  sampans  crowchng  the  docks,  and  to  crown  this 
expanse  of  Hew  we  had  a most  glorious  sunset.  All  this 
and  more  we  beheld  from  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  feet 
aljove  the  sea.  We  admiringly  gazed  on  the  land  and  water 
view-s  until  the  sun  went  down  behind  the  mountains,  and 
then  we  remembered  we  had  an  engagement  at  Sir  John’s 
l)ungalow,  where  we  were  to  dine.  When  we  arrived  there. 
Lady  S.  came  down  to  the  garden  gate  to  welcome  ns.  After 
an  evening  of  delightful  conversation  with  our  Enghsh 
friend,  never  to  he  forgotten,  we  descended  the  niountain 
hy  the  light  of  the  Chinese  lanterns  we  had  brought  with 
us,  hanging  from  the  poles  of  our  sedan-chairs.  The  dark- 
ness of  the  night  was  intense.  At  the  start  1 was  some- 


60 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


what  timid  in  going  down  this  long  and  steep  descent, 
knowing  that  we  could  not  keep  together.  I also  renieni- 
liered  that  niy  coolies  were  the  very  last  going  up.  I did 
not  want  to  he  the  last  going  down.  However,  I'  was 
assured  that  the  coolies  were  sure-footed  and  could  he 
trusted  as  well  in  the  dark  as  in  dayhght.  There  was 
nothing  for  me  to  do  hut  to  sit  quietly,  steady  my  nerves, 
and  resign  myself  to  my  fate  gracefully.  If  onr  train  was 
picturesque  going  up  the  mountain,  it  was  even  more  so 
going  down  with  onr  swinging  gayly  colored  lanterns.  The 
thousands  of  lights  in  the  city  and  on  the  water  helow  us 
greatly  eidianced  the  attractiveness  of  the  scene.  I had  occa- 
sion at  last  to  thank  my  slow- stepping  coolies  for  being 
])ehind  the  rest,  for  I had  the  train  before  me  which  with 
its  constant  change  of  position  was  so  engaging  that  I for- 
got my  previous  fears.  As  we  entered  the  streets  at  eleven 
o’clock  we  did  not  enjoy  so  much  the  sounds  of  Hong  Kong 
by  night  as  we  had  its  sights  by  day.  The  street  theaters 
and  concerts  were  at  full  tide,  and  then*  gongs  and  tam-tams 
tilled  onr  ears  vdth  discordant  sounds.  We  spent  two  hours 
in  ascending  the  mountain,  but  came  down  in  hah;  that  time. 
The  coolies,  like  horses,  travel  rapidly  homeward.  They 
galloped  along  a part  of  the  way,  but  I cannot  say  that  it  is 
a very  agreeable  motion  with  which  to  descend  a hill  in  a 
sedan-chair. 

Chief- Justice  S.  has  a garden  at  his  bungalow  producing 
fiTiits  and  vegetables  all  the  year.  The  dinner-table  was 
beantifuUy  decorated  with  a species  of  ground  pine  and  lovely 
wild-dowers,  together  with  brilliantly  colored  berries.  There 
are  a thousand  things  to  write  about,  but  we  are  hinited  in 
time,  and  have  yet  many  points  to  visit,  and  to  make  ready 
to  take  the  next  steamer  for  Ceylon. 


HONG  KONG  AND  CANTON. 


G1 


CANTON,  October  31,  1875.  We  arrived  here  on  the  28th 
iiist.  on  the  steamer  White  Cloud.  Tlie  passage  up  tlie 
Pearl  River  from  Hong  Kong  is  made  in  seven  hours.  Tlie 
White  Cloud  is  commanded  by  an  American,  althongh  she 
sails  under  British  colors.  There  were  scores  of  Chinese 
on  board  who  were  locked  in  the  hold  and  guarded  by 
armed  police.  The  Chinese  are  so  causelessly  insnrrcc- 
tionary  that  they  are  not  privileged  with  the  freedom  of  the 
deck.  There  is  a strict  watch  kept  by  the  customs  ofhcials 
for  the  snrreptitions  lamhiig  of  opinm  at  Canton.  Notwith- 
standhig  their  watchfulness,  small  packages  of  the  diaig  are 
frequently  thrown  into  the  river  below  Canton,  where  smug- 
glers are  waiting  in  junks  tor  the  passing  steamers  on  which 
their  accomplices  are  passengers.  At  designated  places  the 
latter  throw  packages  of  opium  overboard,  to  Ije  taken  from 
the  water  by  their  confederates,  who  swim  near  the  vessel. 
1 saw  several  packages  thro\\m  into  the  water,  and  remarked 
how  expert  the  swimmers  were  in  catching  them. 

When  we  reached  Canton,  Mr.  Cl.,  one  of  the  memliers  of 
the  house  of  Oliphant  & Co.,  tea  merchants,  came  to  the 
steamer,  and  conducted  us  to  the  residence  of  the  company 
on  the  island  of  Shamien.  Besides  rooms,  we  were  assigned 
a “Johnny,”  neatly  th-essed  in  a blue  silk  blouse  and  trousers, 
wearing  a pair  of  cork-soled  slippers,  who  had  a cue  l)rill- 
iantly  oiled,  which  was  almost  long  enough  to  reach  the  door. 
We  were  told  that  “Johnny”  was  wdiolly  at  our  service,  and 
that  we  would  find  hun  a most  efficient  domestic.  There 
is  no  hotel  in  Canton  suitable  for  Euro]>eans,  and  conse- 
quently the  tea  merchants  kindly  invite  such  visitors  to 
stay  with  them  while  sojourning  in  Canton.  Tourists 
ffisitiug  Canton  are  not  so  numerous  that  they  weary  their 
entertainers. 


62 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKEDIANS. 


The  scenery  of  the  Pearl  River  is  tame  and  iminteresting, 
save  that  of  the  rice-fields,  banana-groves,  pagodas,  and  a 
Inxnriant  growth  of  cacti.  The  shores  are  flat.  We  approached 
Canton  through  a fleet  of  junks  alive  with  women  and  chil- 
dren. Thousands  of  human  l^eings  annually  l)orn  on  the  craft 
in  the  river  spend  their  lives  on  hoard  and  never  hve  ashore. 
(Tcneration  after  generation  live  in  these  floating  homes,  and 
never  know  any  other,  if  a junk  becomes  overpopulated  witli 
chikh'en,  the  ordinary  precautions  for  preventing  their  crawl- 
ing overboard  and  dropping  into  the  river  are  not  exercised. 
Wlien  one  of  the  little  nnwished-for  innocents  falls  into  the 
stream  and  is  drovmed,  it  is  deemed  to  l>e  the  will  of  the 
Higher  Power,  and  the  mothers  are  therefore  comforted. 

ore  care  is  taken  of  infant  boys  than  of  infant  girls.  Boys 
are  more  useful  than  girls.  If  a Chinaman  ha\dng  two  boys 
and  two  girls  is  asked  how  many  chikh'en  he  has,  he  will 
answer  two  children  and  two  “ piecee  girl.”  The  idea  sought 
to  be  conveyed  is  that  boys  are  worthy  to  be  called  children, 
and  that  “piecee  girl”  designates  the  inferiority  of  girls.  So 
if  girl  babies  are  too  abundant,  it  is  not  a (hfflcult  matter  to 
arrange  that  more  boys  than  girls  shall  continue  to  be  mem- 
bei'S  of  the  family  cu'cle.  The  daily  life  of  this  l)oat  popida- 
tion  is  always  in  view.  When  the  concert  and  theater  junks, 
In'illiantly  hglited  with  lanterns,  take  convenient  positions, 
the  people  on  the  smaller  junks  propel  their  craft  close  to 
them  to  witness  the  plays  and  to  hear  the  music.  When  a 
girl  is  married  and  taken  by  her  husband  to  another  boat 
A\dth  her  trousseau,  consisting  of  a change  of  dress  and  a rice- 
kettle,  she  perhaps  will  never  leave  it,  except  it  be  to  visit 
tier  friends.  On  the  gayly  flag-decorated  junks,  illuminated 
by  brightly  colored  lanterns  and  eidivened  l)y  the  music  of 
the  tam-tam,  girls  half -dressed  or  dressed  only  for  exposition 


:f*li 


A STREET  BARBER, 


HONG  KONG  ANl)  CANTON. 


()3 


are  to  he  seen  ino’vong  merrily  about,  and  inviting  tlieir 
“cousins”  to  come  on  l)oard  to  visit  them. 

Canton  has  a i)opnlation  of  one  million,  including  the  river 
people.  Tlie  Chinese  wage  a civil  war  in  a very  conveinent 
manner.  Whatever  may  he  the  question  of  the  war,  when 
the  chow-chow  gongs  are  heaten  the  combatants  on  l)oth 
sides  at  once  suspend  hostilities  and  a])pease  their  hunger. 
When  the  meal  is  linished,  the  coml)at  is  resumed.  Smdi 
struggles  are  commonly  settled  l)y  a committee  from  tlie  Feng- 
8hni,  which  is  remunerated  by  the  gift  of  some  rash  fr<jin 
both  j)arties. 

Chinese  servants  wind  their  long  braids  of  hair  around 
their  heads  when  engaged  at  their  work,  hut  let  them  down 
when  they  come  before  their  superiors  as  a mark  of  res])ect. 

The  Chinese  have  not  as  fine  taste  in  coloring  or  in  invent- 
ing as  the  Japanese.  They  value  the  jade-stone  al)ove  every 
other  precious  stone.  Chinese  officials  in  high  places  wear 
a ring  of  white  or  green  jade  on  the  thumb. 

In  China  the  left  of  the  host  is  the  phu'e  of  honor  at  the 
dinner-table. 

The  Island  of  Shamien  is  about  three  thousand  feet  long 
and  one  thousand  wide.  It  is  connected  with  the  main-land 
by  a l)ridge.  It  is  set  apart  for  the  residences  of  foreigners, 
among  whom  are  a number  of  consids.  On  the  island  are 
the  English  tea  merchants’  houses,  church,  and  the  European 
clulnhouse.  The  avenues  on  the  island  are  mostly  grass- 
grown.  The  sidewalks  are  macadamized  and  shaded  l)y 
large  trees,  some  of  winch  are  pink  and  white  acacias, 
which  are  now  in  full  bloom.  There  are  no  horses  in 
Canton.  Sedan-chairs  sul)stitute  carriages.  The  house  of 
Messrs.  Oliphant  & Co.  is  a fine  specimen  of  Oriental  lux- 
ur\'.  It  is  two  stories  high  arid  each  is  siuTounded  by  a 


64 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


wide  veranda.  These  verandas  are  furnished  with  coin- 
fortal)le  hainhoo  chairs,  sofas,  and  tal)les.  Adjustahle  awn- 
ings of  matting  exclude  the  strong  sunlight.  The  rooms 
in  the  second  story  are  arranged  in  suites,  embracing  a sit- 
ting-room, a t)edroom,  and  a hath-rooni.  There  are  movable 
sci*('ens  on  the  verandas  so  that  the  occupants  of  the  dif- 
ferent suites  may  Tise  portions  of  them  and  he  secluded 
from  their  neighbors.  The  hath-tnt)  is  a large  round  stone 
vessel  having  a faucet  in  the  bottom  through  which  the 
water  is  (hnwii  off.  The  vessel  is  tilled  with  water  in  the 
evening  Iw  coolies.  The  house  and  its  appointments  are  all 
Oriental.  Tlie  commercial  department  is  in  the  l)uilding.  A 
conij}r(i(lor,  or  Imok-keeper,  serves  as  an  interpreter  between 
the  native  and  foreigner,  when  transacting  business.  The 
house  is  finely  shaded  by  large  trees,  many  of  them  being 
now  in  Idoom  and  the  resorts  of  chirping  birds.  The  house- 
work is  done  by  Chinamen.  There  is  not  a woman  in  the 
hoTise,  not  even  a honsemaid.  Onr  “Johnny”  is  always  on 
duty  in  the  corridor.  He  has  charge  of  onr  rooms,  and  does 
the  work  as  well  as  a maid.  Onr  hosts,  three  in  all,  two 
New  Yorkers  and  one  Englishman,  are  such  excellent  enter- 
tainers that  1 do  not  feel  myself  at  all  de  trap. 

I have  learned  in  Canton  to  distinguish  between  a fine  and 
a iK)or  quality  of  tea.  We  are  served  with  tea  for  which 
twenty  dollars  a poTind  was  ])aid.  The  high  price  of  the 
tine  teas  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  only  the  last  leaves  which 
open  on  a plant  are  used.  They  are  carefully  picked  so 
that  tlie  larger  leaves  on  the  lower  paid  of  the  plant  may  not 
1)0  injured,  which  are  picked  later,  when  they  are  larger  grown 
and  stronger,  and  of  a ranker  fiavor.  A plant  yields  only  a 
few  delicate  leaves,  and  to  obtain  a small  quantity  of  them  a 
large  field  must  be  gleaned.  These  delicate  leaves  are  sun- 


HONG  KONG  AND  CANTON. 


()5 

dried.  After  they  liave  ])een  cured  they  are  itavored  with 
the  tea-hlossom.  The  tea  is  put  in  loose  packages  so  that  the 
leaves  may  not  l)e  compressed  and  their  tender  folds  broken. 
When  the  tea  is  thus  prepared,  and  is  not  subjected  to  a long 
sea  passage,  it  is  quite  a different  article  from  the  tea  we  get 
at  home. 

I now  begin  to  realize  for  the  fu’st  time  tliat  we  are  indeed 
far  from  home,  nearly  half-way  around  the  world  from  Troy. 
The  very  thonght  of  the  (hstance  makes  me  homesick. 

We  have  had  a most  enjoyable  day  of  sight-seeing.  We 
made  the  tonr  in  sedan-chairs.  We  visited  a joss-1  lOuse  and 
were  shown  the  appointments  of  a Chinaman’s  Elysium.  We 
saw  several  Celestials  lying  in  l)unks  with  countenances  as 
blissful  as  if  the  devotees  had  never  known  anything  hut 
infantile  happiness.  With  dull,  glassy  eyes  and  sickly 
smiles  they  saluted  us  as  we  passed  by  them.  The  odors 
of  the  small  and  close  chamhers  were  so  (hsgustingly  disagree- 
able that  we  (hd  not  tarry  long  in  the  Imilding.  We  saw  a 
white  marl)le  pagodci  with  several  tiers  of  gilded  hells  hang- 
ing around  the  outside.  It  was  richly  ornamented  within 
vdth  carved  ivory  and  jade  idols,  and  a large  gilded  (h*agon 
on  which  was  mounted  the  principal  idol.  A Hour-mill  ope- 
rated by  buffaloes,  a silk-manufactory,  and  glass-ldowing 
attracted  our  attention  a part  of  the  time.  We  were  also 
interested  by  a magician  apparently  creating  birds  out  of 
iiotliing  and  seemingly  breathing  them  into  hfe.  We  looked 
at  the  Temple  of  Longevity,  where  hberal  devotees  are  prom- 
ised long  life.  We  inspected  a Chinese  crematory.  We  saw 
twelve  fat  hogs  in  a temple,  where  they  are  kept  as  sacred 
animals.  We  went  a few  miles  along  the  top  of  the  wall 
smTonnding  Canton.  We  met  a wedding  procession  in  one 
of  the  streets.  It  was  at  least  a half-mile  long.  The  bride. 


9 


66 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS, 


ill  spangled  and  brightly  colored  attii’e,  preceded  the  pro- 
cession in  a richly  ornamented  sedan-chair;  a veil  fiinged 
with  seed  pearls  hung  over  her  face.  Pagodas  with  tink- 
ling gilded  hells,  sedan-chams  containing  large  and  small 
boxes  of  goods,  and  others  filled  with  pieces  of  red  cotton 
cloth  and  bright-colored  silks,  were  carried  by  coohes.  There 
were  idols  covered  with  gilt  and  jade  jewelry,  a company  of 
little  boys  in  fantastic  dresses  beating  gongs  and  tam-tams ; 
effigies  of  animals  ornamented  with  gilt  and  red  paper  fig- 
ures, and  at  the  rear  of  the  procession  were  the  friends  of 
the  famihes.  Altogether  it  was  a motley  train.  The  bride- 
groom was  not  in  the  procession.  He  awaited  at  his  own 
or  his  father’s  house  the  bride,  whom  he  had  not  yet  seen, 
and  whom  he  is  bound  to  accept,  as  she  had  been  selected 
accorchng  to  the  decree  of  the  Feng-Shni.  The  principal  test 
of  the  bridegroom’s  satisfaction  is  his  admiration  of  the 
bride’s  feet.  If  they  be  too  large  to  accord  with  his  ideas 
of  beauty  and  gentility  he  is  disappointed,  and  he  does  not 
conceal  liis  nnhai^piness.  Small  feet  do  not  affect  mam- 
ages  among  the  lower  classes,  for  the  women  belonging  to 
them  must  work,  while  those  of  the  higher  classes  are  only 
considered  to  l>e  household  ornaments.  We  also  visited 
several  shops  where  carved  ivory  and  jade  trinkets  were 
sold.  We  purchased  a China  tea-service  for  yon  and  one 
for  ourselves.  We  saw  many  interesting  features  of  Chinese 
life,  but  I must  not  dwell  too  long  on  to-day’s  adventm^es. 

I can  now  understand  why  such  hot  sauces  as  curry, 
chutney,  onion  and  red  pepper  are  so  universally  used  in 
these  tropical  climates.  They  stimulate  the  appetite  and 
give  tone  to  the  stomach.  The  use  of  quinine  is  a necessity 
until  one  becomes  somewhat  acclimated.  A favorite  diink 
of  Emupean  residents  and  tomfsts,  called  “ pegs,”  is  a mixt- 


HONG  KONG  AND  CANTON. 


67 


lire  of  cognac  and  soda-water.  It  is  exliilarating  and  is  said 
enables  those  who  drink  it  to  overcome  the  enervating  effects 
of  the  climate. 

There  are  no  street-lights  in  Canton.  Lanterns  are  carried 
l)y  everybody  going  out  in  the  evening ; if  without  a lantern, 
one  is  liable  to  arrest. 

Oyster  shells  are  made  available  for  temple  windows.  The 
insides  of  the  shells  are  peeled  off  and  made  almost  as  trans- 
parent as  glass.  They  aihnit  a soft  and  agreeable  hglit.  The 
vegetables  here  are  not  as  savory  as  onrs ; then*  fiber  is  coarser 
and  then*  substance  more  watery.  There  is  a great  variety  of 
good  fiTiit,  such  as  1 have  never  before  seen.  One  of  the 
popnlar  coiu‘ses  for  a dinner  is  called  “ Bombay  duck.”  It  is 
a sniaU,  strong  fish,  salted  and  di'ied,  and  served  with  cnrried 
rice,  boiled  eggs,  and  cheese.  It  might  not  be  an  appetizing 
dish  at  home,  but  here  it  is.  There  is  one  article  of  food 
which  we  would  not  dare  to  order,  unless  upon  the  condition 
that  it  should  be  d V European..  It  is  eggs.  A Chinaman  desires 
eggs  to  be  bmied  six  months  in  the  ground  lief  ore  he  wiU  eat 
them. 

One  day  we  dined  vdth  the  United  States  Consul,  Colonel 
L.  He  hves  in  the  only  desu*able  district  in  Canton  for  the 
residence  of  a foreigner,  excepting  the  Island  of  Shamien, 
which  is  just  opposite  it  across  the  river.  Standing  by  the 
window  overlooking  the  river,  I saw  a httle  wooden  box  con- 
taining a naked  infant  floating  down  the  stream.  I cried, 
“Why  does  not  some  one  save  that  child U’  The  answer 
came,  “ Oh,  it  is  only  some  ‘ piecee  gM,’  who  was  not  wanted 
in  the  family,  and  she  has  been  committed  to  the  river  to 
seek  her  fate.”  Although  infanticide  is  a violation  of  Chinese 
law,  it  is  rarely  if  ever  punished.  PracticaUy,  it  is  no  crime 
to  let  babies  di’ovm  if  they  fall  overboard  from  a junk  or  a 


68 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIAHS. 


boat.  No  doubt  the  mother  hopes  by  chance  it  may  be  saved 
from  such  a fate. 

Our  host  served  us  to-day  at  dinner  with  bu*d’s-nest  soup, 
one  of  the  most  costly  luxiiries  to  be  had  in  Canton;  costly 
because  of  the  difficulty  in  procuring  the  nests.  They  are 
found  on  precipitous  rocks  overhanging  the  sea,  and  are 
obtained  at  no  little  risk  of  hfe.  This  so-called  dehcacy  is 
therefore  rare.  One  nest  must  suffice  for  the  coimse.  I did 
not  find  the  soup  palatable  enough  to  make  me  desire  any 
one  to  hazard  his  life  for  a bird’s  nest  for  a table  of  mine. 
The  nest  is  prepared  by  soaldng  it  in  water,  and  carefully 
separating  the  cream-colored  glutinous  substance  from  the 
feathers,  straw,  and  leaves  composing  the  nest,  which  is  cut 
in  small  pieces  and  boiled  in  beet  or  chicken  soup  stock. 
The  substance  is  tough  and  tasteless. 

A description  of  the  house  and  garden  of  a rich  Chinese 
official  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  you.  They  are  siuTOunded 
hy  a high  wall.  A small  door  in  the  wall  is  the  only  entrance 
to  the  grounds.  We  were  conducted  into  a large  hall  open- 
ing into  a court-yard.  From  the  ceihng  of  the  hall  were 
suspended  several  large  and  handsome  Chinese  lanterns.  The 
host  came  to  meet  us,  and  invited  us  to  a pavihon,  and  re- 
quested us  to  take  seats  on  a raised  dais,  covered  with  red 
cloth,  he  taking  a lower  seat.  Here  tea  and  pipes  of  tobacco 
were  served  us  by  the  servants,  who  were  in  hohday  di*ess. 
After  an  interpreted  chat,  a walk  in  the  garden  followed.  The 
beautiful  fountains  containing  gold-fish,  the  profusion  of 
flowers,  the  rare  trees,  the  exquisite  plants,  exotic  vflth  us,  the 
grottoes  and  caverns  connected  by  subterranean  passages 
lighted  by  Cliinese  lanterns  were  pleasimably  inspected  by  us. 
In  the  grottoes  were  a number  of  strange  idols  and  some 
marble  tablets  inscribed  mth  wise  sayings.  On  the  summit 


HONG  KONG  AND  CANTON. 


69 


of  an  artilicial  rock,  sixty  feet  liigli,  was  a pavilion  decorated 
with  gorgeous  lanterns  and  containing  some  choice  specimens 
of  porcelain  and  bronzes.  Here  we  saw  dwarfed  forest  trees, 
variously  shaped,  with  tiny  leaves.  There  was  one  trained  in 
the  form  of  a Chinese  jnnk ; another  shaped  like  a pagoda, 
with  httle  gilded  hells  hanging  from  the  branches,  and  another 
like  a dmgon,  with  glass  eyes.  There  were  several  formed  as 
bird-cages,  in  one  of  which  were  birds,  who  appeared  per- 
fectly at  home  in  their  fohage-embowered  cages.  Another 
tree  shaped  as  a man  had  a china  plate  on  which  the  facial 
features  were  painted.  The  hands  and  feet  were  represented 
on  other  plates.  Many  other  ciu'ions  devices  on  the  grow- 
ing tree  were  shown  ns.  The  tree  bore  very  small  white 
blossoms  having  three  tiny  petals.  We  had  not  the  oppor- 
tunity of  chning  in  this  house.  A grand  Chinese  dinner,  as 
we  are  informed,  is  one  of  considerable  formality.  Etiquette 
requh'es  that  each  guest  must  endeavor  to  persuade  the  one 
next  him  at  table  to  be  seated  first.  After  some  conipli- 
meutary  deference  and  hesitation  on  the  part  of  the  guests, 
they  all  sit  down  simultaneously.  The  chnner  l>egins  with 
sweetmeats  and  condunents,  each  guest  helping  himself  vcith 
chopsticks  from  the  dishes  passed  around.  There  are  no 
l)lates  on  the  table.  Then  conies  a course  of  dried  melon-seeds, 
the  host  serving  them  by  the  handful,  and  with  them  hot 
wine  made  from  rice.  Bird’s-nest  soup  follows,  which  is 
drank  from  cups.  No  beef  nor  mutton  is  used  by  the  Chinese, 
because  Confucius  said  that  it  was  not  proper  to  take  the  life 
of  an  animal  useful  in  agricnltm*e.  Pork,  ham,  fish,  and 
pigeon  eggs  form  the  chief  part  of  the  (hnner.  The  host,  to 
honor  a guest,  selects  some  choice  morsel  and  conveys  it  to 
him  on  his  chopsticks.  The  delicacy  must  on  no  account  he 
refused.  Bowls  of  rice  form  the  last  coiu'se.  Occasionally 


70 


ACEOSS  THE  IVIEEIDELNS. 


between  the  com’ses  tobacco-pipes  are  passed.  Cups  of  choice 
tea  are  then  served.  The  honored  guest  is  conducted  to  his 
sedan-chair,  and  the  host  shaking  his  own  hands  bids  liim 
good-bye.  A chnner  may  continue  three  to  four  hours. 
Chinese  women  never  appear  in  the  presence  of  foreigners. 
They  are  secluded  and  treated  as  interiors,  even  those  among 
the  higher  class. 

The  streets  in  Canton  have  some  very  significant  names, 
such  as  the  following,  which,  wlien  translated  into  Eng- 
lish, mean.  Longevity,  Benevolence,  Everlasting  Love,  One 
Thousand  Orandsons,  Accnnmlated  Blessings,  Reposing 
Dragons,  Refreshing  Breezes.  The  shops  are  also  strangely 
named.  One  is  designated  Never  Ending  Success,  another 
Heavenly  Happiness,  another  Honest  Grains,  and  another, 
By  Heaven  Much  Prospers.  We  passed  by  many  eating- 
houses  where  cats  and  rats  were  included  in  the  fare.  The 
dressed  animals  were  suspended  at  the  doors  of  the  restau- 
rants to  attract  attention.  Eggs  with  shells  “ black  and 
blue  ” with  age  were  exposed  among  the  edibles. 

Hong  Kong,  November  1,  1875.  We  left  Canton  this 
morning  by  the  White  Cloud  and  returned  to  Hong  Kong. 
We  shall  spend  two  or  tlmee  days  here  in  sight-seeing  and 
shoi)ping. 


VII 


A Sea  Vo!j((ge,  Including  Short  Sojourns  at  Saigon  and 
Singagjore.  A Typhoon. 

N BOAED  THE  Ava^  November  4,  1875.  The  steamer  is 


l)Oimd  for  Point  de  (xalle,  one  of  the  principal  seaports 
of  the  island  of  Ceylon,  a voyage  of  ahont  nine  Imndred  and 
fifty  miles  from  Hong  Kong,  from  which  port  we  sailed 
this  morning.  We  will  visit  on  the  way  Saigon,  in  Cochin 
China,  and  Singapore.  Dinner  is  over,  and  some  of  the 
passengers  have  already  retired  to  then*  cabins.  To  me  it  is  a 
very  pleasant  occupation  to  spend  an  hour  in  the  evening  in 
describing  to  yon  some  of  the  incidents  of  the  voyage, 
although  generally  those  of  one  day  vary  little  from  those 
of  the  next  in  the  ordinary  routine  of  shipboard  life,  but 
should  I defer  writing  to  you  until  I again  set  foot  on  terra 
jinn  a,  it  is  quite  probable  that  the  sea- voyage  occiuTences 
would  be  left  out  of  my  letters. 

We  started  in  a heavy  north-east  monsoon,  and  the  steamer 
has  rolled  and  tossed  fearfuUy  about.  At  times  the  Ava 
seems  as  it  she  was  about  to  timi  on  her  beam  ends.  After 
getting  pretty  well  out  to  sea  I went  up  on  deck  to  make  an 
observation,  remaining  only  long  enough  to  make  a full- 


71 


72 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


length  salaam.  One  of  the  officers  assisted  me  to  regain  my 
feet,  and  remarked  pohtely  in  French  that  it  was  “a  httle 
windy  this  morning.” 

November  5,  1875.  We  have  had  a heavy  sea  all  night; 
the  wind  blew  fearfidly  and  tossed  our  ship  like  an  egg- 
shell. During  the  dinner  to-day  we  shipped  a sea  which 
broke  through  tlie  hatchway  and  flooded  the  cabin,  setting 
every  movable  thing  in  it  afloat.  However,  we  kept  our 
seats  and  held  om*  feet  above  the  water,  which  quickly  ran 
oft  through  the  scuppers.  We  have  the  prospect  of  another 
rough  night,  hut  no  one  seems  alarmed.  We  have  struck  the 
shifting  monsoon  and  we  may  expect  rough  weather  until 
we  get  to  Saigon.  We  seem  to  ship  all  our  big  seas  about 
meal-times,  which  is  quite  unpleasant  for  the  passengers. 
To-day  at  lunch  nearly  ah  the  food  and  dishes  on  the  tables 
were  swept  off  by  a tremendous  “roller”  coming  over  the 
shix)  and  rushing  down  the  companionway  like  a miniature 
Niagara.  The  officers  say  there  is  no  danger,  that  the  Am 
has  weathered  out  many  a storm  as  severe  as  this  one.  I 
never  saw  such  seas  on  the  Atlantic.  Sometimes  it  appears 
that  oiu*  shij:*  will  roll  over,  she  careens  so  frightfully.  We 
move  al)Out  with  great  difficulty,  although  the  safest  place  is 
one’s  berth.  During  all  the  incessant  rolling  and  tossing  of 
the  shq>  little  seasickness  has  been  experienced.  I manage 
to  mate  this  almost  illegible  letter  l)y  hokhng  fast  to  the 
table  with  one  hand  while  moving  the  jien  with  the  other. 
In  l)ad  weather,  if  one  is  in  the  cabin,  the  most  trifling  things 
often  suffice  to  engage  one’s  thoughts.  We  amuse  ourselves 
by  transi^osing  the  letters  of  a word  to  discover  how  many 
changes  may  be  effected  vdth  them.  The  letters  of  the  short 
word  “lodiana”  can  be  transx^osed  sixty-four  times.  This 


A SEA  VOYAGE  AND  SHOET  SOJOUENS. 


73 


slight  occupation,  I find,  is  an  agreeable  pastime  when  every 
other  amnsement  is  exhausted. 

November  6,  1875.  Yesterday  old  Neptune  seemed  in- 
tent on  baffling  the  skill  of  the  navigators  of  the  Ava  in 
keeping  the  vessel  in  her  patliway.  During  the  night  the 
wind  increased  to  a hnrricane ; the  rain  descended  in  tor- 
rents and  the  seas  ran  “moniitain”  high,  lifting  the  ship,  as 
it  seemed,  out  of  the  water  and  then  cbopping  it  down  in 
the  trough  of  the  sea.  Occasionally  the  sound  of  crashing 
crockery  reached  onr  ears.  By  midnight  the  waves  were 
dashing  against  the  sides  of  the  vessel  with  terrific  force,  and 
fi*om  that  time  until  fom*  o’clock  in  the  morning  there  was 
no  abatement  of  the  wind.  During  the  twelve  hours  of  this 
fearful  gale  several  furled  sails  were  torn  from  the  yards,  the 
main-mast  was  snapped  in  two,  and  we  lost  a boat  and  the 
double  canvas  deck  avniing.  Several  accidents  occurred 
among  the  officers  and  sailors,  but  nothing  serious. 

The  officers  came  down  frecpiently  to  consnlt  the  barom- 
eter hanging  near  onr  cabin  door.  They  waded  about  with 
their  feet  bare  and  pants  turned  up  to  then*  knees.  Seeing 
them  so  often  glancing  at  the  l)arometer,  I put  on  my  night 
wrapper  and  went  out  to  learn  sometliing  respecting  the 
storm.  The  only  hglit  amidship  was  at  onr  door.  I must 
confess  I was  too  disquieted  to  remain  in  my  berth.  As  long 
as  the  mercury  stood  in  the  barometer  between  twenty- 
eight  and  twenty-nine, — often  nearer  twenty-eight, — I knew 
there  was  danger,  and  I wished  to  gather  information  re- 
specting it  from  the  remarks  of  the  officers.  We  were  then 
off  the  Parcelle  Islands  and  not  far  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Saigon  River.  At  dawn  we  had  changed  our  course  and  not 
long  afterward  were  in  the  river  and  out  of  the  sweep  of 


10 


74 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


the  typhoon.  On  the  following  morning  everybody  was 
jolly  again,  seemingly  having  akeady  forgotten  the  last  three 
days  of  stormy  weather. 

4. 

SAIGON,  November  8,  1875.  We  are  anchored  near  the 
wharf,  and  a hotter  place  I never  was  in.  The  equatorial 
heat  is  almost  nnendnrahle.  We  did  not  dare  to  leave  the 
ship  to  go  ashore  until  this  evening  on  account  of  the  intense 
heat,  and  then  only  for  a short  walk.  On  ascending  the 
river  yesterday,  the  Ava  turned  a point  of  land  too  quickly 
and  thrust  her  prow  into  a jungle,  the  domain  of  not  a few 
crocodiles,  tigers,  monkeys  and  mosquitoes.  The  noise  of  the 
escaping  steam,  no  doubt,  frightened  away  the  larger  animals, 
hut  attracted  a great  luuuher  of  monkeys,  and  they  kept  up 
a constant  chatter  in  the  surrounding  trees.  However,  we 
were  not  spared  from  the  painful  stings  of  the  mosquitoes, 
and  were  dehghted  when  the  tide  floated  the  steamer  and 
permitted  ns  to  proceed  on  our  way  up  the  river.  The 
atmosphere  in  the  ship  is  very  warm,  hut  the  punkas  do 
good  service  and  keep  ns  comfortable. 

A French  theatrical  company  retiuTiing  to  France  came 
on  lioard  to-day.  Saigon  is  an  attractive  city  with  its  x>retty 
houses  shaded  by  awnings  of  matting.  It  has  a xiojmlation 
of  sixty  thousand,  and  belongs  to  France.  The  natives  are 
called  Ananiites.  They  are  small  in  statiue  and  slower  in 
movement  than  snails. 

November  10,  1875.  We  were  glad  enough  to  get  away 
from  Saigon  last  night.  Dming  the  night  the  sliij)  was 
trimmed  for  another  storm,  hut  the  evidences  of  foul 


A SEA  VOYAGE  AND  SHOET  SOJOUKNS. 


75 


weather  were  only  those  of  a heavy  rain  accompanied  with 
ten  hours  of  continuous  lightning,  and  we  are  liaving  fair 
sailing, 

4* 


SiNGAPOKE,  Novenil)er  11, 1875.  We  arrived  here  this  after- 
noon, and  are  seventy-five  miles  north  of  the  equator. 
We  shall  not  cross  it  in  going  to  Ceylon.  Here  the  days  and 
nights  are  of  equal  duration.  The  sky  is  seldom  clear. 
Every  day  there  is  more  or  less  rain  tailing.  The  sun  heats 
the  moist  air  and  makes  it  disagreeably  vaporous.  There  is 
much  hghtning  hut  little  thunder  in  this  locality.  Emits 
and  vegetables  are  always  growing  and  maturing.  Indig- 
enous fruit  forms  a large  part  of  the  food  of  the  people,  and 
the  sea  fimiishes  fish  in  ahundance,  hence  it  is  no  wonder 
the  natives  are  indolent.  Whj  should  they  toil They 
require  httle  or  no  clothing,  and  only  hanihoo  huts  in  which 
to  sleep. 

Singapore  is  an  island  twenty-four  miles  long  and  fourteen 
wide.  It  is  situated  in  the  Straits  of  Malacca.  It  is  a Brit- 
ish province  ruled  by  native  princes  acknowledging  allegiance 
to  the  Enghsh  crown.  It  has  a mixed  population  of  one 
hun(,h*ed  thousand,  including  fifty  thousand  Chinanien,  ten 
thousand  Malays,  five  thousand  Eiuopeans  and  a few  Amer- 
icans. Here  we  ride  in  gharn'e.^,  a little  box  of  a wagon 
dravm  by  two  small  ponies.  The  Malay  coolies  wear  a 
httle  more  clothing  than  the  Japanese,  Besides  the  red  loin- 
cloths, they  have  naiTow  strips  of  white  cotton  cloth  hang- 
ing over  theu*  left  shoulders. 

Om*  hotel  comprises  several  buildings  two  stories  high 
connected  by  covered  corridors.  It  is  well  shaded  by  large 


76 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


trees  and  picturesquely  environed  hj  ornamental  shrubbery 
and  dowering-  plants.  The  wide  verandas  are  fm*nisbed  with 
bamboo  chairs,  settees  and  little  tables  where  one  may  have 
a refreshing  beverage  or  a cup  of  tea.  In  the  trees  bit  richly 
plnmaged  l)irds,  and  among  the  bushes  and  dowers  are 
many  brilliantly  winged  bntterdies.  In  the  rooms  and  on 
the  verandas  are  unuTind^ered  insects,  the  pests  of  the  tropics, 
which  partly  rob  one  of  pleasure  and  repose.  In  the  same 
inclosure  with  tlie  hotel  the  Stars  and  Stripes  designate  the 
residence  of  the  American  Consul.  The  only  native  women 
seen  on  the  streets  are  those  of  the  lower  classes.  There  is 
very  little  (hstinguishal)le  difference  in  the  men  and  women’s 
dress  among  the  natives.  Both  wear  bracelets  and  anklets 
either  of  jade,  silver,  or  some  cheaper  metal,  and  ear-rings 
and  nose-rings  of  gold  or  silver.  The  men  have  a proud 
hearing.  They  tread  the  ground  with  an  independent  air  as 
if  they  ovmed  it.  Evidently  the  women  are  the  meeker  sex. 

Formerly  there  were  many  tigers  on  the  island,  and  until 
recently  on  an  average  three  persons  were  killed  weekly  by 
them.  Of  late  they  have  been  vigorously  hunted  and  large 
mmihers  are  annually  slain.  Monkeys,  parrots  and  other 
hmds  are  carried  al)out  the  streets  by  hucksters  and  are 
offered  for  sale  at  very  low  prices. 

— 4*  — 

SiNGAPOEE,  Novendjer  12,  1875.  This  morning  we  arose 
at  dve  o’clock  and  after  a cup  of  coffee  went  to  visit  the 
Whampoo  gardens.  We  started  in  a warm  rain,  hut  in  an 
hour  the  sky  was  clear.  Mr.  (Ah)  Wliampoo,  a rich  China- 
man, welcomes  coiahaUy  strangers  who  go  to  \dsit  his  gar- 
dens. He  speaks  English  very  well.  The  grounds  comprise 


THE  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  WHAMPOO  GARDENS. 
Mr.  Whampoo  seated  in  the  door-way. 


A SEA  VOYAGE  AND  SHOET  SOJOUKNS. 


77 


an  area  of  fifty  acres,  all  niider  fine  cnltivation.  Here 
Cliinese  gardening  may  l)e  seen  in  perfection.  Its  marked 
feature  is  dwarfing  trees  in  an  infinite  variety  of  sliapes.  A 
certain  evergreen  is  best  suited  for  tliis  pimpose.  The  tree 
has  a small  leaf  like  the  hox  of  onr  gardens,  and  a tiny  white 
flower  not  nmch  larger  than  the  head  of  a common  pin. 
These  gardens  contain  every  kind  and  color  of  tropical  veg- 
etation in  the  highest  state  of  perfection,  and  also  many  trees 
and  plants  from  different  parts  of  the  world.  Ah  Whampoo 
called  om‘  attention  to  some  evergreens,  fiowering  shnd)s, 
and  fruit  trees  which  had  heen  sent  him  from  America.  We 
saw  the  Victoria  lily  here  in  its  perfect  heanty.  The  leaf 
of  the  plant  is  dark  green  veined  with  hrown  and  red ; it  is 
from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  in  (hameter  with  its  edge 
turned  np  ahont  two  inches  deep  all  round.  The  flower  is  a 
pinkish  white  and  hes  partly  on  the  leaf  of  the  j^lant  and 
partly  in  the  water.  Each  plant  has  one  leaf  and  one  flower. 
The  hlyis  called  “ La  Belle.”  We  saw  some  rare  orchids  and 
many  varieties  of  cacti  with  white,  red,  yellow  and  green 
flowers.  We  saw  a dwarfed  growing  evergreen  shaped  like 
a coupe  standing  ahont  three  feet  lugh  and  a horse  at- 
tached. We  also  saw  other  trees  growing  in  the  shape  of 
pagodas,  dogs,  hu*ds,  men  and  women,  and  many  other  curi- 
ous forms  of  growing  trees.  These  trees  are  in  full  hlossom 
now.  Chinese  gardeners  might  become  interesting  novel 
writers,  for  they  certainly  express  much  sentiment  in  the 
attractive  forms  of  ornamental  trees.  There  were  also  in 
the  gardens  cocoannt,  mitnieg,  and  cinnamon  trees,  besides 
the  tea,  coffee,  and  clove  plants,  and  an  interesting  menagerie 
of  anunals,  fish,  and  birds. 

In  Singapore  the  European  women  wear  white  inushn 
di'esses;  the  gentlemen  wear  white  hnen.  The  Singalese, 


78 


ACEOSS  THE  MEETDIANS. 


on  the  contrary,  exlhbit  their  shiny,  iron-colored  bodies  and 
jewehy  in  lien  of  any  adornment  of  clothing.  At  this  point 
we  are  about  half-way  on  our  torn*  around  the  world.  Since 
leaving  home  we  have  traveled  on  land  and  water  about 
fifteen  thousand  miles,  including  detoims  and  excursions. 
When  it  is  noon  with  ns  it  is  midnight  with  yon ! We  shall 
he  sailing  toward  home  and  yet  as  heretofore  toward  the 
setting  sun. 

On  hoard  the  Arc,  November  12,  1875.  We  have  resumed 
again  our  shipboard  life  on  the  Arc,  and  are  sailing  through 
the  Straits  of  Malacca  on  onr  way  to  Point  de  Glalle.  We 
have  an  addition  of  twenty  more  to  onr  nnniher  of  passen- 
gers. The  weather  is  sultry,  hut  the  punkas  and  wind-sails 
in  onr  cabin  vdndows  make  us  quite  comfortable.  The  pas- 
sengers on  hoard,  accustomed  to  this  tropical  climate,  dress 
in  light  wash  fabrics  of  varied  colors,  which  gives  a charm- 
ingly fresh  appearance  on  deck. 


VIII 


Ceijlou^  Point  de  CkiHe  and  Some  of  ifn  Curiou.s  Scenes. 
oiNT  DE  GtALLE,  November  18,  1875.  On  our  arrival  here 


at  five  o’clock  last  evening,  we  went  ashore  during  a 
thimder-storni,  and  our  clothing  was  wet  throngh  and 
through.  On  onr  way  we  passed  near  enough  to  the  island  of 
Sumatra  to  see  a Dutch  encampment  on  it  not  far  from  the 
coast.  Point  de  Oalle  is  also  under  British  rule.  The  har- 
bor boats  are  a curious-looking  ci'aft ; they  are  called  “ dug- 
outs.”  They  have  out-riggers  upon  which  the  men  sit ; in 
a|)pearance  they  are  very  much  hke  ice-boats.  These  boats 
convey  fruits,  provisions  and  small  wares  to  the  steamers 
and  vessels  at  anchor  off  the  city.  Passengers  are  carried  to 
and  from  the  sliips  in  small  row-boats.  Point  de  (f  alle  has  a 
population  of  fifty  thousand,  of  whom  the  greater  imniher 
are  Malays  and  Chinese.  There  are  but  few  shops  here; 
goods  and  wares  are  sold  on  the  verandas  of  the  hotels 
and  in  little  temporary  booths  erected  near  them.  Gold 
sovereigns  have  a good  market  here.  The  native  jewelers 
importune  the  stranger  at  every  corner  to  sell  them  sov- 
ereigns, which  are  made  up  into  jewelry.  These  peri})atetic 
merchants  are  Malays.  They  speak  a little  “ pigeon  Eng- 
lish,” and  are  unrelenting  in  their  solicitations,  and  will 


79 


80 


ACKOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


follow  a desired  customer  for  days  to  induce  him  to  buy 
sometliiiig.  The  jewel  merchants  dress  very  well  when  they 
come  to  the  hotels,  hut  the  traffickers  in  other  articles  wear 
short  white  linen  pantaloons  and  long  frocks  of  colored  silk 
open  in  front  to  display  a red  waistcoat.  Their  costume  is 
finished  with  a l)right  scarf  thrown  over  the  left  shoulder. 
They  generally  go  l)arefooted,  l)ut  when  they  present  them- 
selves on  the  verandas  they  wear  on  their  feet  yellow  toe- 
shppers.  If  harefooted  they  are  seen  with  jeweled  (Man- 
chester glass)  rings  on  their  toes.  They  wear  finger-rings  and 
ear-rings,  often  haffing  two  rings  in  each  ear  — one  at  the  top 
and  another  at  the  hottom  of  the  lol)e.  The  ear  jewels  are 
usually  uncut  rul)ies,  sapphires,  aud  pearls.  Some  of  these 
jewels  are  of  considerahle  value.  The  merchants  comh  their 
long,  black,  greased  hair  l)ack  from  tlieir  foreheads  and  con- 
fine it  vdth  handsome  round  shell  combs,  such  as  our  little 
girls  at  home  wear.  They  make  salaams  with  smiles  and 
comphinents,  whether  you  buy  of  them  or  not.  Inasmuch 
as  the  salaams  cost  nothing  and  may  bring  customers,  the 
merchants,  therefore,  are  unsparingly  polite.  They  bring 
for  sale  some  very  pretty  fabrics  and  curious  embroideries, 
l)ut  their  principal  wares  are  tortoise-shell  work,  gold  and 
silver  jewelry,  carved  ivory  trinkets,  seed  pearls,  and  finger- 
rings  set  with  uncut  rubies,  sapphires  and  emeralds.  While 
these  dealers  may  have  many  real  and  heautiful  gems,  for 
they  are  al)undant  in  Ceylon,  they  have  also  excellent  imita- 
tions in  Manchester  glass  which  oidy  a jnucticed  eye  can 
detect  and  for  which  the  sellers  ask  the  price  of  the  real 
stones.  It  the  customer  detects  the  counterfeit,  the  mer- 
chant politely  explains  that  a mistake  had  been  made  in  the 
price  marked.  The  jewel  venders  frequent  the  hotels  the 
day  long  and  gi’catly  annoy  travelers.  They  solicit  one  by 


MALAYAN  JEWELRY  MERCHANTS. 


I 


f 


n 


i 

4 

\ 


CEYLON  AND  POINT  DE  GALLE. 


81 


saying,  “ Buy  this,  please,  just  to  start  some  luck.”  It  you 
buy  a trinket  to  get  rid  of  one  of  tlieiii,  you  are  likely  to  be 
just  as  uiucb  importuned  the  next  day  by  the  same  person. 
Fine  gems  are  found  in  Ceylon,  but  American  and  European 
jewelers  have  tbeir  agents  here  to  luiy  tlieni  as  soon  as 
offered  tor  sale,  and  hence  it  is  that  only  the  less  perfect 
ones  are  trafficked  on  the  hotel  verandas.  Sometimes  it  may 
baiipen  that  some  really  beautifid  and  valuable  gems  can  lie 
obtained  from  these  merchants. 

November  19,  1875.  We  have  strolled  the  streets,  where 
many  novelties  have  interested  us.  The  natives  show  more 
fondness  for  jeweby  than  for  clothing.  Both  men  and 
women  are  l)e jeweled  from  tbeir  beads  to  tbeir  feet,  while 
then*  bodies  are  only  covered  with  a scant  sldrt  of  thin 
inusbn.  All  have  tbeir  right  shoulders  and  breasts  exposed. 
The  children,  until  they  reach  the  age  of  ten  years,  are  as 
nude  as  when  they  were  l)orn,  if  the  bracelets  and  anklets 
of  glass  or  iron,  and  the  bands  of  silver  around  tbeir  liodies 
with  tinkling  little  bells  attached,  are  excepted.  If  too  poor 
to  possess  silver  bands,  they  have  red  ribbons  encircling  tbeir 
Imdies.  The  poorer  people  chew  betel-nuts,  which  l)lacken 
the  teeth  and  thereby  make  tbeir  faces  repulsive.  Tliey 
know  nothing  of  tal)le  etiquette,  Imt  eat  in  common  from  a 
large  wooden  bowl.  There  are  many  cocoanut  trees  growing 
in  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  forests  of  cocoanut  and 
cinnamon  trees  in  the  suburlis.  The  cocoanut  tree  attains  a 
height  from  bfty  to  eighty  feet ; not  a knot  nor  a l)rancb 
is  visible  except  at  the  veiy  top,  where  is  a tuft  of  leaves 
lieneatb  wbicli  the  fruit  is  seen.  A tree  commonly  l)eai‘s  a 
dozen  nuts.  The  coolies  who  cliinl)  the  trees  to  get  the  nuts 
are  given  one  for  the  picking  of  the  fruit  on  each  tree. 


11 


82 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKLDIAES. 


Fresh  cocoanuts  are  largely  used  for  food  among  the  natives. 
The  milk,  before  the  meat  has  thickened,  is  deliciously  cool 
and  very  ref  resiling.  To  enjoy  a cocoanut  one  should  obtain 
it  at  this  stage  of  its  growth.  The  milk  is  then  of  the  con- 
sistency and  color  of  cream,  and  is  eaten  with  a spoon.  We 
have  seen  acres  of  ground  covered  with  split  cocoanuts 
which  were  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  in  order  to  obtain 
the  oil,  which  has  a market  value.  The  hher  of  the  shell  of 
the  cocoanut  is  utihzed  in  the  manufacture  of  rope,  mats, 
and  canvas.  The  United  States  Consular  Agent,  Mr.  D., 
whom  we  visited,  has  a lieautiful  viUa  nine  miles  (hstant 
from  the  city,  situated  on  a peninsula  projecting  into  the 
sea.  The  house  is  siuTOunded  by  a fine  gi*ove  of  cocoanut 
and  cinnamon  trees  and  hedges  of  bananas,  besides  many 
varieties  of  highly  colored  and  curious  flowers. 

There  is  a species  of  palm  growing  in  Ceylon  which  con- 
tains in  the  hollow  stem  of  its  leaf  a sweet,  green,  aromatic 
water,  which  is  cool  and  delicious  to  quench  thirst.  The 
stem  is  tapped  near  its  base ; from  this  incision  more  than  one 
cup  of  refreslnng  beverage  is  olitained.  The  incision  grows 
together  quickly,  and  soon  tills  again  with  liquid.  This  pahn- 
water  is  very  welcome  to  overland  travelers.  The  tree  is 
called  “ the  traveler’s  palm.”  It  bears  a thick  green  leaf,  and 
grows  somewhat  fan-shaped. 

Besides  tlie  Mirzapore  of  the  Peninsular  & Oriental 
Steamship  Company,  which  arrived  this  morning,  and  in 
which  w^e  shall  take  passage  for  Calcutta,  two  other  steamers, 
one  bound  to  China  and  the  other  to  Australia,  are  in  this 
port.  Tlie  presence  of  so  many  travelers  is  attended  with  no 
little  excitement,  increased,  no  doubt,  by  the  short  stay  of 
the  strangers  on  shore,  for  the  three  steamers  sail  to-morrow. 
The  scenes  on  the  hotel  verandas  are  quite  pictiu-esque. 


GROUP  OF  SINGALESE  PEASANTRY,  AND  A SMALL  PORTION  OF  THE  TRAVELER’S  PALM-TREE. 


CEYLON  AND  POINT  DE  CxALLE. 


83 


riem  and  lace  merchants,  venders  of  all  kinds  of  gold  and 
silver  trinketry,  dealers  in  ship-chairs,  hawkers  of  birds, 
monkeys,  and  porcupines,  peddlers  of  ivory  idols,  jade  orna- 
ments, and  otlier  articles  have  all  been  busy  in  displaying 
and  selling  their  goods.  The  veranda  doors  were  strewn 
with  a collection  of  wares,  giving  them  the  appearance  of  a 
gi’eat  Imzaar.  The  travelers  contrilmted  not  a little  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  exposition.  The  ladies  attired  in  bright- 
colored  pongee  and  nmslin  dresses,  with  white  straw  sun-hats 
wound  around  vdth  gay  scarfs ; and  the  men  in  white  linen 
clothing,  wearing  hroad-brimmed,  xhth  hats,  trimmed  vdth 
white  or  blue  muslin  scarfs,  grouped  about  the  different  dis- 
jilays  of  merchandise,  are  still  jiictiired  to  om*  mind’s  eye,  with 
many  other  scenes  in  these  distant  lands  never  to  lie  forgotten. 

Ice  is  much  wanted  here.  The  machinery  for  making  it  is 
unserviceable.  There  had  been  some  hopes  of  obtaining  a 
supjily  from  the  recently  arrived  steamers.  In  the  absence  of 
ice,  we  endeavor  to  assuage  om-  thirst  by  drinking  tea  and 
lemonade.  The  jirofuse  use  of  condiments  in  our  food  greatly 
augments  oiu*  tlhi*st. 


IX 


A Votj((f/e  to  Cal  cut  fa  and  a Short  Sojourn 
in  the  Ilarhor  at  Madrau. 

OVEMBEE  21,  1875.  We  came  on  board  the  AUrzapore 


last  evening.  In  eight  or  ten  days  we  shall  reach 
Calcutta.  Among  oiu*  passengers  is  a Malay  ama^  or  nurse, 
serving  an  Enghsh  family.  Her  jewehy  includes  tln*ee  rings 
in  each  ear,  a large  gold  ling  in  her  nose,  rings  on  each  linger 
and  on  the  middle  toes  of  her  feet,  two  silver  chains  encir- 
cling her  neck,  a half-dozen  silver  bangles  on  each  arm,  and 
several  silver  anklets.  She  wears  a scant  petticoat  just 
reaching  l)elow  her  knees  and  a thin  piece  of  muslin  which 
covers  her  shoulders  and  waist ; a long  strip  of  white  cloth, 
a half -yard  wide,  l)Ound  vdth  red  calico,  so  adjusted  that  one 
end  of  it  drapes  the  head  and  the  remainder  ghdles  her 
waist.  Such  is  the  toilet  of  a first-class  native  nurse.  Eng- 
lish families  resi(hng  in  Imha  and  in  China  generally  send 
then’  younger  children  to  England  to  remain  several  years  to 
l)enefit  them  physically.  A niunher  of  famihes  aiTange  to 
go  together,  and  this  happens  to  he  the  children’s  voyage. 
We  have  on  hoard  a dozen  children,  and  at  Calcutta  as  many 
more  are  to  take  passage.  The  ship  goes  to  Southamp- 
ton via  the  Suez  Canal.  Tliere  is  also  on  hoard  an  Eng- 
lish clergyman  returning  home  for  a vacation.  We  have  a 
short  service  of  prayer  every  afternoon  in  the  cabin,  after 


84 


A VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


85 


wbicli  the  ladies  have  tea  on  deck.  The  daily  scenes  of 
family  life  on  deck  are  quite  home-like.  Lessons  in  sew- 
ing and  reading  are  given  to  their  children  by  the  moth- 
ers, and  one  is  much  interested  in  listening  to  and  observ- 
ing them.  I should  like  nmcli  to  make  the  entire  voyage 
with  this  party. 

November  24,  1875.  Early  this  morning  the  anchor  was 
cast  two  miles  oft  the  city  of  Madras.  The  shore  is  rocky, 
and  no  closer  approach  can  be  made  with  safety  during  the 
prevailing  high  winds,  (-roing  ashore  is  quite  hazardous, 
and  I shall  not  attempt  it  during  thc^  tlmty-six  lionrs  of  onr 
anchorage  here.  A person  going  ashore  is  tied  in  an  arm- 
chair which  is  swung  oft  by  ropes  to  clear  the  ship  and  then 
let  down  into  a small  l)oat  which  is  constantly  dancing  up 
and  down  on  the  waves  and  dashing  against  the  side  of  the 
ship.  While  suspended  over  the  side  of  the  vessel  waiting 
for  a propitious  wave  to  bring  the  little  craft  up  to  the  right 
point,  the-  })assenger  himself  can  decide  the  moment  to  dis- 
embark, and  by  a word  or  gestiu*e  a half-dozen  of  the  boat- 
men quickly  vdth  their  iron  hooks  grapple  the  side  of  the 
ship  and  steady  the  boat  while  others  grasp  the  chair,  from 
which  the  passenger  frees  himself  with  a nervous  haste,  and 
seats  himself  as  best  he  can  in  the  bottom  of  the  canoe  and 
is  rowed  ashore.  The  waves  rolled  so  fearfully  high  that 
none  of  the  passengers  going  farther  attempted  to  make  the 
landing,  nor  did  any  of  the  officers  go  ashore.  ( )nly  three 
passengers  landed,  one  of  whom  was  a lady.  The  captain 
says  he  cannot  discharge  that  part  of  his  cargo  to  be  landed 
at  Madras,  but  must  carry  it  to  Calcutta,  whence  it  will  be 
reshipped.  The  surf  boats  are  very  deep  and  made  of  bark 
closely  joined  by  bamboo  splints.  They  resemble  onr  Indian 


86 


ACEOSS  THE  IVIEEIDIANS. 


canoes.  It  requires  twelve  men  to  manage  a boat.  How- 
ever, in  the  face  of  aU  the  danger,  the  hucksters  of  sandal- 
wood fans,  chains,  l:>oxes,  seed-bags  and  native  dress-stnffs, 
and  the  snake  and  knife  jugglers  did  not  hesitate  to  come  on 
board. 

The  ladies  are  in  showy  toilets  to-day.  Them  wliite 
muslin  dresses,  pretty  silk  waist  scarfs,  wliite  straw  snn-hats 
trimmed  with  bright  ribbons  and  flowers,  make  them  very 
attractive.  The  gentlemen  with  their  white  linen  suits  and 
pith  hats  wound  around  with  blue  scarfs  do  not  dull  the 
picturesque  effect  of  the  thronged  deck  of  the  ship  as  it  rides 
at  anchor  here  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal.  The  Hindoos  who 
come  on  lioard  to  sell  their  wares  are  ornate  mth  bead 
jewelry,  and  from  then*  white  turbans  hang  long  ends  of 
rilibon.  They  wear  only  loin-cloths  and  little  strips  of  white 
niushii  over  then*  left  shoulders.  The  clothing  of  the  native 
women  consists  of  a strip  of  muslin  partly  covering  their 
liodies  and  flovflng  downward  beneath  the  red  cord  tied 
around  them  waists.  A longer  piece  of  nmsliii,  falling  over 
them  left  shoulders,  gmdles  their  waists  and  is  fastened  to 
the  lower  di*apery  with  several  pins.  They  make  no  httle 
display  of  silver  and  glass  jewelry  about  their  persons. 

The  United  States  Consul’s  flag  was  flying  at  lialf-mast, 
))etokening  the  death  of  Vice-President  Wilson.  The  Enghsh 
laches  di'ess  tor  chnner  on  the  Ava.  They  appear  at  six  o’clock 
in  pretty  toilets  of  mushns  and  ribljons  — reminding  us  of 
the  sninmer  toilets  at  Saratoga.  Mr.  P.  P.,  the  renowned 
singer  and  composer  of  Sunday-school  hjmins,  came  on  board 
with  his  wife  and  tlmee  children.  At  Calcutta  he  wiU  smg 
seventy  nights  for  the  Ijeneflt  of  the  Sunday-school  Union  of 
England  and  America.  We  are  much  entertained  by  the  ex- 
pert swimmers  and  chvers  who  come  to  the  steamer  and  dis- 
play them  sldll  in  the  water.  They  clunb  to  the  top  of  the 


A VOYAGE  TO  CALCUTTA. 


87 


masts  and  jump  into  the  water  for  tlie  sixpences  thrown  tliere 
l)y  the  people  on  Ijoard.  Tliey  tloat  al)ont  the  vessel  for  honrs, 
anxiously  watching  the  passengers,  to  catch  the  sixpences 
cast  oveihoard.  These  men  and  hoys  seemed  to  be  as  much 
at  home  in  the  water  as  fishes. 

Madi'as  contains  a half-million  people.  The  city  has  an 
area  of  nine  or  ten  square  miles.  Viewed  from  the  steamer, 
it  presents  a fine  appearance.  A large  |)art  of  the  European 
dist]‘ict  is  near  the  water,  and  we  could  see  many  heantifnl 
villas  surrounded  l)y  extensive  gardens,  in  which  cocoannt 
and  mango  trees  are  growing,  and  forests  of  large  cacti  in 
blossom  were  seen  in  open  places. 

— 4*  — 

SUNDAY  EVENING,  Noveuibei*  28,  3875.  Again  I am  sitting 
at  the  cabin-table  to  devote  another  hour  to  my  itinerary. 
The  captain  read  the  Clinrch  service  this  morning,  after  which 
he  made  his  usual  Sunday  inspection  of  the  ship,  and  subse- 
quently of  the  officers  and  crew  on  deck.  The  sailors  and 
cooks  are  Hindoos ; the  principal  stewards  are  English,  the 
assistants  are  Hindoos;  the  two  stewardesses  are  also  Hindoos. 
The  crew  at  inspection  appeai*ed  in  short  white  trousers,  long 
white  jackets,  and  white  caps.  All  the  men  were  barefooted. 
The  orders  of  the  officers  are  given  in  English,  which  the 
native  sailors  soon  learn  to  understand.  The  weather  is  very 
warm,  although  nincli  cooler  than  it  was  several  weeks  ago. 
We  had  a good  passage  across  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  and  are  now 
at  anchor  near  the  lighthouse,  at  the  month  of  the  Hoogiey 
Biver,  one  of  the  many  months  of  the  (ranges.  We  are  wait- 
ing for  to-morrow’s  tide,  at  noon,  when  we  shall  cross  the  bar. 
Calcutta  is  ninety  miles  northward.  Arriving  there,  we  shall 
have  sailed  eleven  thousand  five  hundred  miles  since  leaving 


88 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIAATS. 


San  Francisco  on  the  1st  of  September,  and  passed  seventy- 
two  days  on  shipboard.  1 mnst  confess  that  we  are  getting 
somewhat  tired  of  life  at  sea.  Yonr  father  and  I are  slightly 
infected  by  malaria.  I imagine  we  have  eaten  too  innch 
oleomargarine  “ Imtter  ” witli  onr  rolls  and  coffee.  How  else 
conld  we  have  apparently  fresh  nnsalted  hntter  on  a long 
sea  voyage  i 

Calcutta  is  about  four  thousand  tln'ce  hundred  miles  from 
Hong  Kong;  another  long  stretch  on  om*  round  tour.  We 
expect  to  travel  about  one  thousand  five  hnndi'ed  miles  by 
railroad  in  India.  Physically,  we  shall  no  donl)t  he  gi’eatly 
henefited  by  the  change  of  conveyance,  and  by  the  land 
atmosphere,  wliich  at  this  season  of  the  year  is  fresh  and 
invigorating.  A month  on  land  will  l)e  refreshing  to  ns  and 
prepare  ns  for  onr  three-thonsand-niile  voyage  from  Bombay 
to  Suez.  I congratulate  myself  that  I have  been  less  affected 
l)y  the  fatigue  of  travel  and  the  change  of  climate  than  the 
other  memhers  of  our  party.  I try  to  he  coimageous,  and  to 
meet  bravely  the  many  discomforts  and  needs  incident  to  so 
long  a journey.  We  are  constantly  interested  in  the  new 
experiences  and  novel  sights,  and  scarcely  have  time  to  yield 
to  the  necessary  rest  and  repose  that  we  may  at  times  need. 
Much  to  our  regret,  we  parted  at  Point  de  Gralle  with  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  W.,  OTir  c()mp(uj)\<))is  de  vonane  since  July  last. 
After  four  months  of  companionship  we  were  sorry  that  they 
should  decide  to  go  chrect  fi*om  Point  de  Gralle  to  Bombay, 
therel>y  depriving  tliemselves  of  making  an  interesting  tom* 
tlirough  India,  and  us  of  their  company.  Our  experience 
on  hoard  the  Mirc<(pore  was  most  agi*eeable ; and  we  met 
with  some  charming  people.  Captain  P.  is  an  old  officer  in 
the  English  merchant  and  mail  service,  and  is  making  Ins 
last  cruise  Ijefore  l)eing  retired. 


X 


Calcutta^  and  Some  of  the  CuHfoma  of  the  Coiudrij. 
ALCUTTA,  November  30,  1875.  We  are  at  the  Grreat  East- 


ern Hotel,  having  arrived  late  yesterday.  The  United 
States  Consid,  Gieneral  L.,  met  us  at  the  wharf,  bringing  vdth 
him  a Hindoo  servant  named  Boxoo,  who  is  to  lie  at  oiu* 
service  while  traveling  in  this  country.  The  river  scenery  as 
we  approached  the  city  seemed  like  an  extended  garden  of 
tropical  vegetation  and  fruits.  A succession  of  pretty  villas 
gave  a charming  effect  to  the  landscape.  Calcutta  is  some- 
what like  a Em*opean  city.  The  white,  two-story  houses 
in  the  Enghsh  district  reminded  ns  much  of  home.  The 
hotel  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the  English  district  and  oppo- 
site the  grounds  of  the  Viceroy’s  Palace.  There  are  some 
pretty  little  gardens  in  the  vicinity.  Ladies  do  not  dine  at 
tahle  dSwte^  but  in  then*  own  parlors.  We  occupy  a com- 
fortable suite  of  rooms,  adjoining  the  dining-room,  consisting 
of  a large  parlor  and  a large  bedroom,  connected  with  an 
inclosed  veranda  at  one  end  of  which  is  a bath-room.  We 
have  punkas  swinging  above  our  table  in  the  parlor,  and 
also  above  our  beds.  Servants  in  the  hall  pull  them  liy  a 
rope  passing  through  a hole  in  the  wall.  There  is  a small 
army  of  liarefooted  servants  in  the  house.  Each  guest  has 
his  own  servant,  and  the  proprietors  of  the  hotel  assign  two 


12 


90 


ACEOSS  THE  MEETDIANS. 


or  three  more  to  him.  It  is  odd  to  see  a score  or  more  of 
tliese  Hindoos  lying  on  mats,  one  at  each  door  along  the 
corridors.  Besides  wearing  short  breeches,  which  do  not 
extend  to  their  knees,  they  wind  a piece  of  white  cloth 
around  their  l)odies,  and,  after  twisting  it  around  their  thighs 
and  passing  it  over  then*  left  slioulders,  they  fasten  it  around 
their  waists,  leaving  their  right  shoulders  and  arms  hare. 
On  their  heads  they  wear  white  tnrl)ans.  It  is  their  duty  to 
he  always  at  your  door  ready  for  service,  excepting  at  the 
hom*s  when  they  are  alisent  at  dinner  and  supper.  They 
sleep  on  tlie  mats  without  pillows ; then*  only  covering  the 
clothes  they  wear.  If  you  go  to  dine  anywhere  yon  take 
your  servant  along  to  wait  on  you  at  table.  In  a well- 
ordered  liousehold  each  member  of  it  has  two  servants ; the 
women  and  children  one  of  each  sex.  Everytliing  is  done 
l)y  the  servants.  An  American  family  living  in  Calcutta, 
enihracing  four  persons,  has  thirty  servants,  ten  of  whom 
alternately  pTill  the  i)unkas.  The  servants  do  not  eat  in 
tlie  house  in  which  they  serve.  They  mess  together  in  a 
calun  outside  the  grounds  and  provide  their  own  food.  They 
live  principally  on  rice,  fish,  and  fruit.  When  taking  their 
daily  baths  they  wash  their  clothes  and  diy  them  in  the  sun. 
The  wages  of  house-servants  is  two  annas  a day,  equal  to 
eight  cents  of  our  money.  Our  man,  Boxoo,  is  paid  four 
annas,  because  he  speaks  a little  English. 

To-day  we  have  been  greatly  delighted  in  receiving  the  first 
letters  from  home  which  have  reached  us  since  leaving  San 
Francisco,  three  months  ago.  We  have  not  received  a copy 
of  a home  paper  of  a later  date  than  August  23d.  It  so  hap- 
pened that  we  sailed  from  each  port  before  the  arrival  of  the 
American  mail,  and  were  chsappointed  to  find  tliat  there  was 
nothing  awaiting  us  when  we  reached  the  next  one.  Three 
months  is  a long  time  to  he  vfithout  news  from  home. 


CALCUTTA  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  CUSTOMS. 


91 


ALCUTTA,  December  2,  1875.  Tlie  weatlier  liere  is  like 


that  of  June  at  home.  Om*  hotel  is  iiocuharly  arraiigecl. 
Tlie  kitchen  is  opposite  the  dining-room,  and  looks  hke  a 
steamship’s  gaUey.  It  has  no  roof,  and  opens  l)roadly  upon 
the  grand  corridor.  There  are  shelves  placed  around  the 
three  sides  of  tlie  kitchen,  under  wliicli  the  cooks  and  their 
assistants  shelter  themselves  from  the  sun  and  rain.  The 
range  is  in  the  center  of  tlie  room  beneath  a canvas  awning. 
(Ireat  numbers  of  crows  and  other  voracious  liirds  gather 
about  the  kitchen,  eager  to  get  any  food  they  may  obtain 
either  by  gift  or  theft.  They  often  enter  the  rooms  and 
carry  off  bright-colored  ribbons  and  other  brilliant-colored 
articles.  The  crows  have  ah-eady  robbed  me  of  two  neckties. 

The  strand  is  a beautiful  promenade.  It  is  finely  shaded 
liy  mango  and  lianyan  trees ; it  is  very  wide  and  about  a mile 
and  a half  long.  On  one  side  of  the  strand  is  an  extensive- 
park  called  the  Clarden  of  Eden.  In  it  are  many  curious 
pagodas  and  Indian  structimes,  besides  a great  variety  of 
flowers.  An  excellent  orchestra  discoimses  there  the  latest 
Eiu‘opean  music  every  evening  between  the  hours  of  five  and 
seven.  In  Calcutta  nurses  are  called  ai/ah.s,  and  are  desig- 
nated by  no  other  name.  Very  few  women  are  seen  in  the 
streets.  If  a woman-servant  is  sent  on  an  errand  a man- 
servant accompanies  her.  The  common  and  cheap  convey- 
ance is  the  palancpiin,  or  palki.  It  is  a long,  covered,  black 
box,  with  an  opening  on  each  side.  It  is  carried  by  foiu* 
coohes.  ( )ne  side  of  the  paUvi  is  movable.  In  it  the  passen- 
ger may  recline,  having  his  head  sup^iorted  by  a high  cushion. 
I have  seen  ladies  in  palkis  engaged  in  reading  or  knitting. 
The  ladies  had  lace  veils  thrown  loosely  over  tlieii’  heads. 
The  houses  have  no  chimneys.  The  cooking  is  done  in  small 
buildings  outside  the  garden-walls,  or  in  distant  corners  of 
them. 


92 


ACEOSS  THE  IVIEEIDIANS. 


In  Calcutta  and  tlirougliout  many  parts  of  India,  the  peo- 
ple are  preparing  to  receive  the  Prince  of  Wales,  who  is 
expected  to  arrive  here  on  the  23d  of  December.  We  shall 
not  see  the  reception  given  him,  as  we  do  not  intend  to 
remain  in  Calcutta  until  that  time.  A visitation  of  cholera 
is  feared  on  account  of  the  massing  of  troops  here  and  the 
presence  of  a large  nundjer  of  people  from  the  bordering 
districts. 

We  have  l^eeii  much  interested  in  visiting  the  markets  in 
tliese  eastern  countries.  The  market  in  Calcutta  is  particu- 
larly attractive.  It  is  in  a spacious  brick  building,  paved 
with  stone.  It  is  admirably  arranged,  and  is  kept  clean  by 
running  water  conducted  by  gutters  through  the  building. 
We  saw  a large  display  of  fiaiits,  dowers,  vegetables,  meats, 
l>irds,  dsh,  and  a gveat  variety  of  spices  that  are  embraced 
in  curry  powders.  The  condiments  are  neatly  arranged  in 
little  mounds  on  polished  stone  slabs.  From  each  mound 
the  buyer  selects  the  cpiantity  of  synce  desired  to  be  mixed 
to  form  the  desired  sort  of  cimry.  Curry  powders  enter 
largely  into  the  cuisine  of  tropical  countries.  The  market- 
women  sit  a la  fare  on  their  tables  vdtli  their  wares  in 
front  of  them.  They  are  be  jeweled  vuth  gold,  silver,  and 
glass  ornaments,  but  thinly  clad,  having  only  a piece  of 
calico  thrown  around  their  loins.  I saw  on  the  arm  of  a 
market-woman  a gold  dligTee  bangle  not  to  be  despised 
by  any  lady.  Some  of  the  market-women  had  foiu*  and 
dve  gold  chains  around  their  necks,  although  they  were 
nude  down  to  then*  waists.  These  women  invest  all 
then*  earnings  in  chains  and  rings  and  wear  them  con- 
stantly. 

The  banana,  as  an  article  of  food,  has  about  the  same 
value  here  as  the  apple  and  potato  have  at  lionie.  The 


CALCUTTA  AND  SOME  OP  ITS  CUSTOMS. 


93 


oranges  are  good ; rice  is  a common  disli  at  tlie  hotels,  and 
is  ninch  eaten  hy  resident  Eiu*opeans.  There  is  always  one 
course  of  rice  in  some  form  served  at  dinner. 

We  tiffined  yesterday  at  Mrs.  McM.’s.  The  house  in  which 
she  lives  is  an  oriental  structure  surrounded  hy  a hroad 
veranda,  shaded  hy  avuiings  of  matting.  It  is  situated  in  a 
grove  of  mango  and  banyan  trees.  Tliey  have  thudeen  horses 
and  a coolie  to  each  horse.  The  family  consists  of  four  per- 
sons, and  each  of  them  has  two  servants.  There  are  eight 
punka  men  and  four  bearers,  men  who  serve  at  talile  and 
take  care  of  the  di’awing  and  dining  rooms.  There  are  three 
grand  pianos  in  the  house.  The  mistress  is  supposed  to 
know  nothing  of  the  details  of  housekeeping.  If  she  has 
an  order  to  give,  or  a question  to  ask,  it  is  done  through  her 
own  servant.  This  is  the  custom  among  the  foreign  residents 
here.  The  resident  European  laches  do  not  wear  the  cash- 
mere  shawl  of  the  country,  because  it  is  so  comnioidy  worn 
by  the  lower  classes.  These  shawls  are  cream  white  and 
have  a narrow  border.  They  are  called  the  ZTmritzer  shawl. 
The  merchants  wear  those  of  a texture  which  we  at  home 
would  not  disdain  to  possess. 

There  is  a line  display  of  ecpiipages  and  liveries  by  the 
English  residents,  and  also  by  the  native  princes.  The  foot- 
men wear  gay  shawls,  short  white  trousers,  and  jaunty  white 
turbans. 

We  attended  one  of  Mr.  P.’s  Sunday-school  praise  and 
prayer  meetings.  Thei*e  were  about  one  hundred  natives 
present,  mostly  women  and  children,  many  of  whom  took 
part  in  the  singing  without  any  regard  to  time,  tune,  or  the 
pronunciation  of  the  Englisli  words.  Many  of  the  hymns 
seemed  familiar  to  them.  The  punkas  in  the  building  kept 
ns  comfortable  with  the  mercury  at  ninety  degrees.  The 


94 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS, 


audience  of  half-converted  Hindoos  appeared  much  inter- 
ested in  the  service. 

We  have  visited  the  Botanical  Clardens,  four  miles  from 
the  city,  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges.  The  park  contains 
one  liundi'ed  and  fifty  acres,  and  in  it  is  the  largest  banyan 
tree  in  the  world.  Its  trunk  has  a circumference  of  fifty 
feet.  The  shoots,  grovdng  downward  from  the  branches  and 
taking  root  in  the  ground,  number  more  than  two  hundred. 
The  tree  with  its  new  stocks  shades  more  than  an  acre  of 
ground.  As  soon  as  a shoot  is  rooted  it  l^egins  to  send  out 
new  branches.  At  the  time  of  the  great  inundation  of  the 
Ganges,  ten  years  ago,  a large  part  of  the  park  was  washed 
away,  and  scores  of  the  stocks  of  the  big  banyan  were  up- 
rooted and  destroyed.  These  gardens  contain  aU  the  choice 
varieties  of  vegetation  indigenous  to  the  country.  The  sun- 
flower is  cultivated  in  the  gardens  with  great  care,  and  is 
held  in  high  repute.  Here  is  a pagoda  in  which  are  hun- 
dreds of  serpents  inclosed  in  cases  faced  with  glass.  The 
reptiles  were  constantly  wiithing  and  winthng  around  one 
another.  We  saw  a huge  anaconda  crawling  out  of  liis  old 
skin. 

On  oiu*  way  to  the  Botanical  Gardens,  we  saw  some  women, 
almost  naked,  hut  with  plenty  of  l)angles,  rings,  and  anklets, 
preparing  the  manure  of  a barnyard  for  fuel  for  cooking. 
This  is  done  by  making  it  into  hnnps  and  chyiiig  it  in  the 
sun.  We  passed  by  the  palace  of  King  Oude,  in  which  he 
is  held  a prisoner  by  the  Enghsh  Government.  He  has 
a yearly  allowance  from  that  Government  of  $150,000,  but  it 
does  not  keep  him  fi*ee  from  debt.  He  was  lately  advised 
to  make  $365  suffice  for  his  daily  needs.  He  has  foiu*  hun- 
dred retainers. 

The  “ Black  Hole,”  or  the  dungeon  of  Calcutta,  exists  no 


THE  LARGEST  BANYAN-TREE  IN  THE  WORLD.  IN  THE  BOTANICAL  GARDENS  IN  CALCUTTA. 


CALCUTTA  AND  SOINIE  OF  ITS  CUSTOMS. 


95 


longer.  The  spot  is  now  occnjhed  by  one  of  tlie  ninnicipal 
hnildings.  We  have  seen  in  the  shops  some  magnificent 
specimens  of  gold,  silver,  and  glassware.  The  beaten  gold 
and  silver  work  done  l)y  the  Hindoos  is  exceedingly  line. 
A few  days  ago  I saw  in  a jewelry  shop  two  rajahs,  or  Hin- 
doo princes.  One  was  dressed  in  bine  velvet  richly  embroid- 
ered vdth  precious  stones,  and  wore  jewels  of  great  value. 
The  other  was  clad  in  ])nrple  velvet  embroidered  with  pearls, 
and  studded  witli  costly  gems.  On  his  caj),  or  fez,  was  a 
tassel  of  gold  and  pearls.  With  them  was  a l)oy  dressed  in 
scarlet  velvet  adorned  with  precious  stones.  The  rajahs  are 
buyers  of  the  choicest  of  all  the  fabrics  and  gems  lironght 
to  Calcutta.  I saw  a lieantifnl  yellow  (haniond  as  large  as 
a walnut  in  an  aigrette  for  a rajah’s  cap. 

Transportation  is  done  by  hand.  Eight  coolies  will  carry 
a piano  or  anything  of  like  weight  on  their  heads,  and  trudge 
along  with  it  for  hours  without  showing  any  sign  of  fatigue. 
The  streets  in  the  English  (piarter  are  wide  and  well  paved. 
They  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  and  kept  clean.  But,  in 
the  native  quarter,  the  reverse  is  the  rule.  The  population 
endiraces  forty-hve  thonsand  natives  and  seventeen  thousand 
Europeans.  The  government  buildings  are  large  and  hand- 
some. They  are  built  of  brick  and  concrete,  are  painted 
white,  and  are  siuTonnded  l)y  large  paiks  and  gardens.  In 
the  parks  adjoining  the  Viceroy’s  palace  are  many  cattle 
grazing.  The  Viceroy’s  palace  is  a magnificent  structure, 
two  stories  in  height,  and  covering  vdth  the  immechate  gar- 
dens several  acres  of  land.  In  the  contines  of  governmental 
buildings  are  a beantifnl  clmrcli  and  residences  of  officials. 

A few  days  ago  I accompanied  Miss  H.,  one  of  the  Eurasian 
teachers  attached  to  the  American  mission  here,  on  her  round 
of  visitation  to  the  schools.  W e went  to  one  where  seventy- 


96 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


seven  little  girls  were  taught  in  the  Bengalee  language,  by 
two  missionaries.  The  ehiklren  were  seated  on  the  floor 
on  mats.  They  had  Imt  little  clothing,  Imt  no  lack  of  the 
usual  kinds  of  jewehy.  All  had  nose-rings.  At  another 
scliool,  wliere  thirty-four  little  girls  were  in  attendance,  and 
the  teacher  was  absent,  a little  girl  nine  years  old  was  trying 
to  act  as  instructor.  She  was  niamed,  hut  had  not  yet  left 
her  mother  to  live  with  liei*  husliand.  These  circumstances 
had  induced  the  chil(h*en  to  appoint  her  teacher  for  the  day. 
She  had  a red  mark  on  her  forehead,  indicating  that  she  was 
married.  Her  name  was  Poniegranite.  She  had  an  assistant, 
younger  than  herself,  called  Lucky.  The  Hindoo  children 
memorize  with  great  facility,  hut  the  women  commit  lessons 
to  memory  with  great  difficulty.  In  the  Bengalee  language 
there  are  forty-eight  characters.  At  the  home  mission,  at 
the  head  of  which  is  Miss  B.,  there  are  twelve  native 
Eurasian  women  employed  as  teachers,  whose  duty  it  is  to 
visit  some  of  the  — the  women’s  quarters, — where 

they  are  allowed  to  teacli  the  women.  (The  Eurasians  are 
the  offspring  of  an  English  father  and  a native  mother.) 
The  teachers  make  daily  Hsits  to  the  schools  from  11:30 
A.  M.  to  4:30  p.  M.  I am  told  that  only  a few  Hindoos  entnely 
ahandon  their  own  religion,  although  they  gladly  accept 
religious  instruction  from  the  missionaries  for  personal  edu- 
cational advantages,  and  because  they  wish  to  learn  some- 
thing of  the  English  language.  Miss  B.  told  me  that  the 
missionaries  slid  not  expect  to  have  very  satisfactory  results 
from  their  teaching  until  the  present  generation  of  girls 
should  ])econie  grandmothers,  for  much  of  the  good  instruc- 
tion is  lost  it  the  children  are  taken  fr-om  the  schools,  as 
it  often  happens,  at  twelve  years  of  age.  In  one  of  the 
zenanas,  where  the  wife  of  the  oldest  son  was  receiving 


THE  VICEROY’S  PALACE  IN  CALCUTTA. 


CAI.CUTTA  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  CUSTOMS. 


07 


instruction,  a magnificent-looking  woman  passed  tlirongli 
the  room,  liaAong  only  a piece  of  coarse  canvas  around  her 
loins.  She  went  into  an  open  comd,  and  sat  down  upon  the 
stone  pavement  near  the  door  of  the  room  in  which  we  were. 
She  was  the  mother,  and  at  one  time  the  head  of  the  family, 
Imt  on  the  deatli  of  her  hushand  slie  was  compelled  to  re- 
sign to  her  eldest  son  all  right  to  that  position,  and  ever  after 
to  occupy  the  place  of  a menial  in  the  household.  Whatever 
jewels  she  possessed,  either  hy  paternal  dower  or  hy  gift  from 
her  hushand,  she  had  made  over  to  her  eldest  son.  1 under- 
stand that  this  custom  prevails  among  the  Hindoos  every- 
where. However,  if  the  widow  possesses  consideralile  intelli- 
gence, she  will  he  consulted  upon  all  gi*ave  family  matters. 

There  is  an  nnnsual  excitement  to-day  in  the  streets  among 
the  “sheeted”  and  “shawled”  natives.  The  Viceroy  is  ex- 
pected to  arrive  at  eight  o’clock  tins  evening,  and  they  are 
eager  to  see  him  and  his  retinue  pass  through  the  streets. 

The  sliawl,  cloth,  and  jewel  merchants  will  liring  to  your 
hotel  quantities  of  then’  goods,  and  leave  them  for  days  in 
your  rooms  that  yon  may  have  time  to  make  such  selec- 
tions of  them  as  yon  may  desire.  The  sellers  spread  them 
on  the  floor  tor  exhiliition.  We  have  had  the  floor  of  oiu* 
parlor  strewed  with  jewehy  and  shawls  for  a wliole  day,  and 
it  was  only  vdth  much  persuasion  that  we  induced  the 
owners  to  remove  them.  They  assume  that  if  the  goods  are 
left  tor  a time  with  a desired  customer  that  they  will  liave 
a better  cliance  of  selling  them. 

The  dead  are  hnnied  on  funeral  pyres.  Yom*  father  vdt- 
iiessed  the  hnrning  of  a miniher  of  liodies.  He  went  into  an 
uncovered  place  surrounded  by  a wall  eight  feet  high  where 
three  pyi'es  were  blazing.  They  were  superintended  hy  some 
coolies  employed  for  that  purpose.  A charred  corj)se  was 


13 


98 


ACKOSS  THE  MEBIDIAHS. 


visil)le  on  one  of  the  pyres.  There  was  considerable  smoke, 
l)nt  no  offensive  odor.  By  and  by  tlie  remains  of  a woman 
were  brought  there.  The  husband  of  tlie  deceased  began  at 
once  to  l)argain  for  the  wood  wanted  for  the  pyi’e,  cpiantities 
of  which  were  piled  in  different  parts  of  the  inclosure.  When 
l)urchased,  tlie  wood  was  laid  together  to  the  height  of  about 
four  feet  on  tlie  stone  flagging.  The  woman’s  body  was 
then  carried  to  the  spot  on  a lioard  covered  with  coarse  can- 
vas and  uncovered.  The  rings,  anklets,  and  bangles  of  the 
deceased  were  removed  by  the  Imshand.  A coolie  anointed 
the  liody  with  grease  and  then  laid  it  upon  the  pyi’e.  Some 
flue  wood  was  laid  upon  the  remains,  leawng  the  face  ex- 
posed. Tlien  a Hindoo  priest  advanced,  at  whose  feet  the 
bereaved  man  threw  a half-dozen  copper  pieces,  worth  a half 
cent  each.  The  priest  demanded  more,  and  they  were  im- 
mediately contributed.  Then  a small  basin  containing  rice 
and  millet  seed  mixed  with  goat’s  milk  was  brought  and 
handed  to  the  hnsliand,  together  with  two  small  sticks  of 
sandal-wood.  The  priest  blessed  the  articles,  and  then  the 
hnsliand  placed  the  two  sticks  at  the  sides  of  the  face  of  the 
dead  woman  and  put  some  of  the  contents  of  the  basin  into  her 
mouth  and  on  her  neck.  Then  a lighted  fagot  was  handed 
him  and  more  money  demanded,  until  he  emptied  his  hag.  He 
then  went  three  times  around  the  pyi*e,  swinging  the  flaming 
fagot  three  times  on  each  round,  after  which  he  set  fire  to  the 
wood,  and  soon  it  was  brightly  liurning.  However,  he  was 
not  pernntted  to  leave  the  place  until  he  had  remunerated 
the  coolie  who  had  assisted  in  the  cremation.  The  poor 
man  liad  not  another  piece  to  give.  There  would  have  heeii 
a scene  had  not  tlie  spectator  called  the  poor  man  aside  and 
given  him  a few  coppers  which  enabled  him  to  satisfy  the 
coolie. 


CALCUTTA  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  CUSTOMS. 


99 


Girls  are  generally  inarriecl  by  coiiti*act  at  the  age  of  six 
or  seven,  and  remain  with  then*  mothers  until  they  are  ten 
or  twelve  years  old,  when  then*  hnshands  claim  them.  Mean- 
while, the  affianced  seldom,  if  ever,  meet  until  the  hour  of 
the  marriage  ceremony.  Only  in  rare  cases,  and  under 
})ecnliar  circnmstances,  does  the  gM  visit  the  family  of  her 
future  Imsband,  and  after  marriage,  seldom  the  home  of  her 
parents.  From  the  time  the  girl  is  engaged  she  wears  a red 
paint  mark  on  her  forehead  to  imhcate  she  is  betrothed. 
The  marriage  ceremony  is  lirief.  It  is  only  an  exchange  of 
vows  accorthng  to  the  contract.  The  groom  goes  to  the 
house  of  his  Indde  in  great  pomp  in  a gilded  peacock-shaped 
chariot,  drawn  by  four  horses,  and  preceded  by  music.  He 
is  followed  by  his  retainers,  or  friends,  and  torch-light  liearers. 
A wedding  always  takes  place  at  inglit.  After  the  ceremony 
the  procession  forms  again  and  marches  to  tlie  house  of  the 
groom  wdth  the  bride  concealed  in  a closed  palki,  the  Imsliand 
lea(hng  the  way.  Hindoo  women  sometimes  liecome  mothers 
at  the  age  of  twelve  years.  Widows  never  remarry.  They 
are  doomed  to  a life  of  slavery  and  degradation.  Probably 
this  destiny  induces  them  to  throw  themselves  upon  the 
funeral  pyres  of  their  husbands ; the  widows  preferring 
death  rather  than  degradation.  Since  the  English  have 
dominated  in  India,  sntteeisni,  or  the  immolation  of  widows 
on  the  fimeral  pyres  of  then*  dead  husbands,  is  no  longer 
permitted.  In  some  remote  places,  however,  it  is  still  prac- 
ticed secretly.  A certain  stupefying  drug,  it  is  said,  is 
given  to  the  widow  before  she  is  led  to  the  funeral  pile,  to 
make  her  insensible  to  the  terrors  of  her  self-sacrilice,  and 
at  the  last  moment  her  friends  push  her  into  the  lire. 
An  elder  brother  is  not  allowed  to  behold  the  wife  of  a 


100 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDTAHS. 


younger  l^rother,  but  a younger  brother  may  see  an  older 
brother’s  wife.  Wives  and  childi*en  are  not  permitted  to  sit 
at  tal)le  with  tlieir  husbands  and  fathers.  The  wife  seiwes 
the  husband  at  his  meals.  Although  he  sits  at  a table  to 
eat,  she  partakes  of  food  sitting  on  the  floor. 

We  are  getting  ready  to  make  a northern  tour  as  far  as 
Agra  and  Delhi.  We  shall  start  on  the  10th  instant.  We 
liave  provided  ourselves  with  bedding,  which  will  be  canied 
in  a large  canvas  bag.  This  provision  is  necessary,  since  the 
liotels,  or  bungalows,  in  some  parts  of  the  interior,  do  not 
supply  bedding. 


XI 


Benares^  the  Mecca  of  Hindooimi, 


ENAKES,  December  13,  1875.  From  Calcutta  to  Benares 


in  the  mail  train  is  a journey  of  eighteen  lioiirs.  Our 
quilts  and  pillows  chd  not  come  amiss  during  the  night.  We 
are  at  Clark’s  bungalow.  Mr.  Clark  is  an  Eiighshman,  born 
in  India,  and  his  wife  a Hindoo.  We  found  our  l)edding 
very  necessary  here.  In  the  room  assigned  to  us  were  two 
bedsteads,  with  only  a piece  of  canvas  stretched  across  them. 
It  is  expected  that  travelers  will  bring  their  own  bed-clothes. 
The  cuisine  is  fair,  and  the  quality  of  the  provisions  good. 

Yesterday  we  devoted  entirely  to  sight-seeing  with  Dras,  a 
Hindoo,  as  a valet  de  place  and  interpreter,  and  our  own  man, 
Boxoo.  In  the  streets  of  Benares  we  saw  a more  degraded 
class  of  people  than  we  had  observed  elsewhere.  The  people 
were  almost  naked,  and  the  chihheii  entirely  so.  The  nude- 
bodies  of  little  boys  were  encmcled  with  strings  of  beads  to 
which  bells  were  attached.  The  women  decorate  then*  arms 
from  their  wrists  to  their  elbows  with  glass  bangles,  and  the 
upper  parts  of  their  arms  with  Ijands  from  which  hang  tiny 
silver  bells.  They  wear  nose-rings  made  of  brass  and  as 
large  as  small  tea-plates.  I have  seen  nose-rings  of  gold  with 


lOI 


I 

n 


BENAIIES,  THE  MECCA  OF  HINDOOISM. 


103 


make  purchases,  l)ut  only  came  to  pay  our  compliments.  He 
replied  that  it  was  a pleasure  to  show  his  goods  to  Americans, 
for  their  fame  extended  from  tlie  rising  to  the  setting  sun.  He 
offered  us  betel  nuts  and  cardamom  seeds,  which  we  graciously 
l)ut  sparingly  accepted. 

We  noticed  in  the  streets  a queer  little  vehicle,  called 
“ jingling  johnnie.”  It  is  a small  open  cart  drawn  hy  vicious 
little  ponies,  caparisoned  with  gay  trappings  and  strings  of 
brass  hells.  One  can  ride  conifortal)ly  in  it,  if  the  ponies  travel 
uniformly. 

In  Benares  caste  distinctions  strictly  prevail.  A Hindoo 
woidd  rather  j)refer  the  most  menial  service  if  it  secured  him 
the  caste  of  the  Brahmins,  hy  which  he  would  he  privileged 
to  wear  the  sacred  cord  of  their  ordm*  over  his  right  shoidder, 
than  to  belong  to  a lower  caste  with  wealth  at  his  command. 
The  Brahmins  as  a caste  are  horn  to  the  priesthood.  They  are 
seen  sitting  in  groups  on  mats,  cffessed  in  white  cloth,  hold- 
ing l)ooks  or  rolls  of  parchment  in  their  liands.  The  rajah, 
the  highest  native  governing  power  under  the  English  ( tov- 
ernment,  must  defer  to  tlie  Brahmin  priests  in  secular  as 
well  as  in  rehgious  affairs.  The  Brahmins  can  “ break  thread  ” 
only  among  themselves.  They  cannot  even  cook  their  food 
in  vessels  owned  l)y  persons  of  another  caste,  nor  partake  of 
food  handled  hy  them.  I have  heard  there  is  a caste  holding 
itself  so  supei’ior  that  it  will  not  pemiit  its  daughters  to 
marry,  and  therefore  does  not  allow  tliem  to  hve,  although  it 
privileges  its  sons  to  wed  women  of  another  caste.  These  dis- 
tinctions of  caste  not  only  affect  detrimentally  the  general 
elevation  of  the  people,  luit  check  the  efforts  made  for  their 
higher  civilization. 

We  went  to  deliver  a letter  of  introductio]i  to  Rajah  Samhhu 
Narayana  Sinhar,  hut  he  was  not  at  liome.  In  an  hour  after- 
ward he  came  in  grand  state  to  retiuTi  our  visit.  He  wore 


104 


ACEOSS  THE  MEETDIANS. 


I)lue  silk  trousers,  a pink  silk  frock,  and  yellow-toed  slippers. 
On  liis  red  fez  was  a cluster  of  precious  stones.  His  servants, 
a half-dozen,  were  gayly  attired.  His  coach  was  red  and 
gilded,  and  the  trappings  of  the  horses  were  gorgeous.  The 
rajah  speaks  excellent  English.  He  was  educated  at  Queen’s 
College,  in  Benares.  In  speaking  of  the  nobility  of  India,  he 
said  the  rajahs  often  had  from  two  hundred  to  six  hundred 
servants  and  retainers.  It  is  said  that  most  of  them  serve 
without  compensation,  and  pretend  to  provide  their  own 
food.  However,  it  is  admitted  that  they  obtain  rice  and  fish 
from  their  masters’  stores.  The  rajah  junposed  to  place  at 
onr  sei'vice  the  next  day  one  of  his  elephants  fully  equipped, 
and  a boat,  and  some  of  his  servants  to  show  ns  the  city  and 
the  sights  on  the  Ganges.  Tliis  offer  we  accepted.  Soon 
after  his  departure  two  servants  returned  with  some  flowers 
and  a basket  of  eatables,  consisting  of  a large  fish,  fiaiit,  vege- 
tables, almonds,  and  taffy  made  of  brown  sugar.  Formerly  it 
was  the  custom  of  the  rajah  to  give  to  visitors  hearing  letters 
of  introduction  cashmere  shawls. 

We  went  and  saw  the  temple  called  the  “ Monkey  Temple,” 
in  which  are  five  hundred  monkeys.  These  animals  are  quite 
tame,  and  crowd  around  visitors  in  great  nnmhers.  They  are 
very  fond  of  millet  seed,  a supply  of  which  is  kept  by  a priest 
from  whom  one  can  buy  it  at  a small  price.  Some  of  the 
mothers  l)ronght  their  l)al)ies  to  ns  in  their  arms,  and  looked 
so  piteously  hungry  that  we  expended  a few  more  pice  for 
seed  to  appease  their  appetites.  Dras,  the  interpreter,  told  ns 
that  hundreds  of  years  ago  the  King  of  Ceylon  made  war  upon 
the  ruling  prince  living  at  Benares,  who  defended  himself 
with  an  army  of  monkeys  and  overcame  his  adversary. 
Then  the  prince  l)nilt  a temple  and  dedicated  it  to  the  mon- 
keys, and  the  Monkey  Temple  is  still  floimshing. 


GROUP  OF  ELEPHANTS  READY  FOR  A JOURNEY, 


BENAHES,  THE  MECCA  OF  HINDOOT8M. 


105 


Tlie  rajah’s  elephant,  one  of  Ids  half  dozen,  splendidly 
eqnipped  wdth  a howdah,  or  saddle,  covered  mth  red  velvet 
fringed  with  gold  and  spangles,  made  his  appearance  accord- 
ing to  the  raj  all’s  promise.  The  mammoth  creature  kneeled 
down,  and  liy  means  of  a ladder  we  moimted  to  the  howdah. 
Dras,  Boxoo,  and  the  rajah’s  servant  seated  themselves  hehind 
ns.  The  driver  took  his  place  astride  the  animal’s  neck. 
From  time  to  time  the  elephant  turned  his  head  to  look  at  ns, 
as  if  he  suspected  that  he  was  engaged  in  an  unworthy  serv- 
ice, caiTying  foreigners  on  his  liack.  However,  he  was  not 
refractory,  and  ri'adily  obeyed  the  spear  of  the  niahont  (hrect- 
ing  him.  Although  horses  and  donkeys  here  daily  see  ele- 
phants on  the  roads,  yet  they  always  show  signs  of  fright 
when  they  come  in  their  way.  We  rode  four  miles,  and  were 
two  hours  on  the  road.  Several  naked  dead  bodies  were  car- 
ried by  on  a hoard  to  be'hnrned,  followed  by  coolies,  liearing 
on  their  heads  the  wood  for  the  fires. 

We  had  the  rajah’s  boat  for  a half  day  on  the  Ganges.  It 
was  a large  fiat  one  poled  by  four  men.  On  oiu’  way  to  the 
river  a servant,  dressed  in  white,  walked  behind  ns  and  held 
over  our  heads  a large  white  nmhrella.  He  followed  us  so 
closely  that  we  never  once  lost  the  shade  of  the  nmhrella. 
We  went  several  miles  on  the  river  along  the  (putts  and  quays. 
Tlie  ghats  extend  three  miles  along  the  busy  portion  of  the 
city.  There  are  many  temples  and  beautiful  palaces  built  on 
tlie  ghats  along  the  river,  besides  many  mosques  with  gilded 
domes  and  pretty  minarets.  These  hnihhngs  are  erected  upon 
vertical  stone  waUs  from  one  Immh’ed  to  two  Immh’ed  feet 
liigh.  Tliere  are  stairways,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet;  wide, 
descending  to  the  water’s  edge  — off  which  we  saw  men  liath- 
ing  in  the  river. 

We  saw  vu’eaths  of  yellow  fiowers  fioating  on  the  water. 


14 


106 


ACKOSS  THE  MEKEDEySIS. 


and  were  told  that  they  had  been  placed  on  the  boxes,  wliicli 
had  been  consigned  to  the  sacred  waters  of  the  Ganges,  con- 
taining the  ashes  of  the  bodies  hnrned  on  fnneral  p3rres.  This 
is  a custom  observed  only  by  the  better  classes  of  people. 
Pilgrims  come  a gi*eat  distance  to  worship  on  these  ghats,  and 
to  bathe  in  the  river.  There  is  a devout  Hindoo  in  MacPas 
to  wlioni  a cask  of  the  water  of  the  Ganges  is  sent  weekly, 
for  lie  will  not  permit  any  other  to  he  used  under  his  roof. 

Tlie  spectacle  of  the  congi*egated  worshipers  and  religious 
devotions  on  the  ghats  along  the  Ganges  at  Benares,  is  sm-- 
prisingl}^  interesting  to  all  persons  nnacc^nainted  with  heathen 
practices.  We  ol)served  a man  taken  from  his  bath  and  laid 
upon  a platform,  and  subjected  to  such  rough  rubbing  at  the 
liands  of  two  men  that  the  sufferer  cried  out  in  agony.  He 
went  limping  away  after  having  given  some  pice  to  the  two 
severe  manipulators.  We  were  told  that  was  an  act  of  penance. 
A nnmlier  of  x^i'iests  were  anointing  the  bodies  of  men  com- 
ing from  the  river,  for  which  holy  unction  the  men  paid  a 
few  x)ice.  We  saw  three  funeral  iDyi'es  smoking  and  hiuiiing 
at  different  points  on  the  ghats. 

Dras  informed  ns  that  ^Draying-machines  were  (hpped  in 
the  water  and  swmng  over  the  heads  of  devotees  with  solemn 
ceremony.  We  saw  a dead  body  boating  down  the  river  with 
yeUow  bowers  around  the  neck.  The  dead  bodies  of  children 
of  twelve  years  of  age  are  taken  to  the  middle  of  the  river 
and  there  sunk  vdth  stones  fastened  to  them.  Poor  coohes 
are  similarly  buried.  The  water  from  the  Ganges  is  drank 
by  the  X)eo|)le  as  a sacred  water ! 

Several  exhibitions  have  been  given  at  our  bungalow  by 
magicians  and  snake-charmers.  They  i:)erfornied  vdth  a 
score  or  more  of  horril)le  re])tiles,  ranging  from  the  anaconda 
to  the  x^oisonons  colira.  We  were  so  disgusted  with  the 


ONE  OF  THE  GHATS  IN  BENARES  DEDICATED  TO  RELIGIOUS  WORSHIP. 


r 


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HINDOO  MAGICIANS  AND  SNAKE-CHARMERS. 


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THE  TAJE-MEHALLE,  AT  AGRA. 


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AGEA  AND  THE  TAJE. 


109 


or  mausoleum,  of  Taje-MehalJe^  the  resting-place  of  the 
favorite  wife  of  Shah  Jelian,  Moonitaz-i-MiilinJ,  or  “exalted 
one  of  the  Palace.”  Shah  Jelian  was  the  reigning  monarch 
in  this  part  of  Intha  two  hunch*ed  and  fifty  years  ago.  This 
mausoleum  is  the  central  point  of  interest  to  the  tourist  in 
Agi’a.  Although  there  are  in  Imlia  other  marble  echfices  of 
wonderful  structure  inlaid  with  beautiful  stones,  neverthe- 
less the  Taje  is  the  most  lieautiful  building  in  Incha.  In  its 
original  splendor  and  glory  the  Taje  must  have  been  the 
masterpiece  of  architecture  of  its  time,  as  it  is  conceded  to 
lie  the  most  exquisitely  beautiful  building  in  existence  at  the 
present  day.  It  only  retained  its  original  splendor  for  a few 
decades  of  years.  A hostile  neigiilior,  having  heard  of  this 
magnificent  pile,  made  an  armed  incursion  vdth  a horde  of 
vandals,  conquered  tlie  people,  and  despoiled  the  beautiful 
mausoleum,  taking  from  its  marlile  walls  many  of  the  x>re- 
cious  stones  therein  inlaid.  They  were  dislodged  with  rough 
instruments  which  left  unsightly  cavities. 

The  edifice  stands  on  a fomidation  of  red  sandstone,  twelve 
feet  above  the  ground,  it  is  octagonal  in  form;  its  arclii- 
tectiu’e  is  pure  Saracenic.  The  root  is  seventy  feet  above  the 
foundation ; the  dome  is  simnounted  liy  a gilt  crescent  two 
hundi'ed  and  sixty  feet  from  the  ground.  The  dome  was 
originally  covered  with  solid  plates  of  gold.  The  walls,  both 
outside  and  inside,  are  inlaid  with  coral,  amethyst,  l)lood- 
stone,  mother-ot-pearl,  lapis  lazuli,  agates  of  rich  colors,  cor- 
nehan  in  varied  tints,  jasper,  and  many  heautiful  stones 
unknown  in  Ein'opean  countries,  besides  rare  marbles  and 
richly  gold-veined  alabaster  of  Egypt.  The  more  precious 
stones  were  placed  near  the  l^ase  of  the  structm-e,  as  the 
defaced  walls  indicate.  At  the  two  entraiices  were  massive 
silver  doors,  studded  with  one  thousand  one  hundred  silver 


110 


ACKOSS  THE  MEKEDIANS. 


rupee-headed  nails.  The  plunderers  tore  off  all  the  gold  and 
silver,  and,  having  melted  them  into  ingots,  carried  then*  rich 
booty  away  with  them. 

Tliis  mausoleum  was  erected  in  1600.  Tavernier,  the  French 
traveler,  who  saw  the  Taje  huilding,  tells  us  that  twenty 
thousand  men  were  employed  seventeen  years  in  its  construc- 
tion. During  the  peiiod  of  the  building  of  the  tomb  there 
was  great  mortality  among  the  lal)orers,  and  the  peasantry 
cried  out  : 

“ Have  mercy,  (led,  on  our  distress. 

For  we  die,  too,  with  the  princess.” 

In  the  mean  time  the  shah  died,  and  his  remains  were  eventu- 
ally placed  by  the  side  of  the  princess  Mooititaz.  The  huild- 
ing is  of  pure  white  marble  and  to-day  stands  unimpaired  by 
time  and  weather.  The  cost  of  this  ljuilding  can  he  hut  in- 
(hff'erently  estimated.  Most  of  the  lal)or  was  done  l)y  slaves, 
who  received  only  a small  allowance  of  provisions  of  rice, 
corn,  raw  tish  and  wild  fruit,  and  nothing  for  work.  Much 
of  the  material  was  contributed  by  neighhoring  tril^es,  and 
for  other  portions  of  the  materials  levies  were  made  upon 
depending  tribes. 

Neither  glass,  wood,  nor  common  metal  was  incorjjorated 
in  this  building.  The  outside  and  inside  have  the  same  style 
of  ornamentation  in  inlaid  work.  Itahan  artisans  were  em- 
ployed to  design  the  inlaid  work,  which  is  as  ffiiely  and  beau- 
tifully linislied  as  Florentine  mosaic  work.  The  designs  are 
largely  floral  and  scroll. 

The  arches  over  the  doors  and  windows  are  decorated  with 
festoons  of  convolvuh  in  lapis  lazuh,  the  leaves  and  vines  in 
Idood-stone.  There  are  chapters  from  the  Koran  inlaid  with 
black  marble  on  the  walls.  The  roses  are  designed  in  coral 


AGEA  AND  THE  TAJE. 


Ill 


and  cornelian ; I counted  in  one  rose  eighty  pieces  of  shaded 
coral.  The  lilies  are  wi'onght  in  mother-of-pearl  with  stems 
and  leaves  in  hlood-stone ; the  different  flowers  are  repre- 
sented in  stones  having  the  colors  of  the  natimal  flowers. 

The  tombs  of  the  shah  and  liis  wife  are  in  a cr}q3t  below 
the  floor.  They  are  of  white  marble,  richly  decorated  with 
mosaic  work.  Originally  there  were  diamonds,  rnhies,  em- 
eralds, and  tnrqnoises  as  large  as  English  walnnts  set  in  the 
decorations,  l)nt  nothing  remains  of  this  valuable  inlaid  work 
except  the  leaves,  vines,  and  tracery  work  which  are  in  less 
valnal)le  stones. 

Although  tlie  Taje  is  enchanting  by  moonhght,  it  is  more 
resplendent  in  the  sunlight.  Wlien  we  first  saw  it  at  mid- 
day it  sparkled  brilliantly  as  if  its  walls  were  studded  with 
colored  diamonds.  In  the  light  of  the  early  morning  it  is 
tinged  with  a roseate  color ; in  the  twilight  it  has  a soft  blue 
shading  of  color.  By  an  artificial  illnmination,  as  we  saw  it, 
its  varied  Idealities  are  still  enhanced.  The  Taje  maybe  called 
a living  poem  of  wondrous  lieanty  suggested  by  the  “ Tales 
of  the  Arabian  Nights.  ” Although  the  flats,  when  they  sacked 
Agra  two  hundred  years  ago,  intended,  no  doubt,  to  cany 
olf  everything  of  value,  they  unwittingly  left  untold  riches 
Ideliind  them. 

The  palace  of  Akbar  is  another  marvel  of  art  in  maiidle 
and  mosaic  work.  Words  can  scarcely  convey  to  yon  any 
adequate  description  of  its  unique  architecture.  Were  1 
to  attempt  to  portray  its  magnificence,  I am  sure  yon  woidd 
say  that  I had  imagined  the  structure.  After  wandering 
through  a nnmlder  of  its  splendid  marble  halls  we  came  into 
an  open  court,  paved  with  squares  of  Idlack  and  white  marble 
reminding  one  of  a chess-board.  It  Was  used  l)y  the  Em- 
peror Akbar  for  playing  a game  similar  to  tliat  of  hackgam- 


112 


ACEOSS  THE  MERIDEANS. 


mon  called  pucheese,  or  eastern  backgammon.  Instead  of 
using  pieces  of  ivory  to  play  the  game,  young  girls  of 
the  harem  were  substituted,  who  jumped  from  square  to 
square  as  the  game  required  movement.  These  girls  were 
ch’essed  in  short  skirts  of  colored  tulle  and  richly  adorned 
with  jewels.  Near  by  this  court  was  another  covered  with 
matting  where  the  women  of  the  harem,  entirely  nude,  played 
“ hide  and  seek,”  while  the  emperor  sat  on  a golden  seat 
overlooking  the  court.  In  a corner  of  this  court  is  a deep  well 
into  which,  it  is  said,  the  emperor  threw  the  unfaithful  of  his 
hartmi. 

Tlie  royal  bath-room  in  the  palace  is  a strange  and  bean- 
tifid  aj^artment.  It  is  about  thirty  feet  square,  and  in  the 
center  is  the  basin  for  l)athing,  occup5dng  nearly  all  the 
space.  Several  streams  of  water,  heated  by  the  warmth  of  the 
sun,  poured  into  the  basin.  The  floor  of  the  room  is  inlaid 
with  mosaic  work,  representing  fish,  reptiles,  and  other  forms 
of  water  life.  The  roof  is  rather  low  and  arched ; the  arches 
centering  above  the  basin  are  beautifully  omamented  in  mosaic 
work. 

It  is  said  that  Emperor  Akbar  was  accustomed  to  stand  at 
the  vdndows  above  the  arches,  from  whence  he  could  observe 
the  ladies  of  the  harem  while  they  were  indulging  in  the 
morning  l)ath  in  the  room  below  him.  The  mode  of  drying 
themselves  in  those  days  required  no  towels.  Tripping  into 
the  sunlight  flooding  the  adjoining  marble  corridor,  they  re- 
mained for  a short  time,  when  they  retimied  to  robe  them- 
selves in  their  gauze  garments. 

“ Tlie  most  curious  part  of  the  palace,”  says  Mr.  Bayard  Tay- 
lor, “ is  the  ‘ Palace  of  Grlass,’  which  is  an  Oriental  bath,  the 
chambers  and  passages  whereof  are  adorned  vdth  thousands 
of  small  mirrors,  disposed  in  the  most  intricate  designs.  The 


AGKA  AND  THE  TAJE. 


113 


water  fell,  in  a hroad  sheet,  into  a marble  pool  over  brilliant 
lamps,  and  the  fountains  are  so  constrncted  as  to  be  lighted 
from  within.  Mimic  cascades  tnmhled  from  the  walls  over 
slabs  of  veined  marble  into  l)asins  so  cnrionsly  carved  that 
the  motion  of  the  water  produced  tlie  ai)pearance  of  fish. 
This  l)atb  mnst  once  bav('  realized  all  the  fal)led  splendors  of 
Arabian  stories.  The  chandlers  of  the  sultanas  and  the  open 
court  connecting  them  are  blled  with  fountains.”  Here  tlie 
sliah  took  frecjnent  occasion  of  meeting  his  ladies  in  their 
light  gossamer  draperies. 

We  passed  through  another  marble  coiud,  and  came  to  the 
“ Pearl  mosque,”  so  called  on  account  of  the  purity  and  white- 
ness of  the  marble.  Its  roof  is  formed  by  three  domes,  each 
simnounted  vdth  a gilded  crescent.  In  this  mosque  there  are 
no  floral  mosaics.  One  only  sees  Saracenic  arches  and  archi- 
tecture in  the  flnest  of  polished  white  marl)le.  There  are  no 
mats  on  the  floor  to  kneel  upon.  Six  hundred  people  can 
worsliip  together  in  the  mosciue. 

We  visited  this  morning  the  English  cluuvh  mission,  where 
there  ar(^  four  hundred  native  orphans,  among  whom  is  a young 
man,  about  twenty  years  of  age,  who  was  taken  from  a wolf’s 
den  twelve  years  ago.  He  was  discovered  in  company  with 
a she-wolf,  and  was  creeping  al)OTit  on  his  hands  and  feet. 
The  animal  apparently  accepted  the  boy  as  her  own  progeny. 
It  is  supposed  tlie  boy  was  carried  off  in  infancy  by  the  wolf, 
and  had  been  suckled  and  cared  tor  l)y  her.  The  l)oy  is  called 
“ Saturday,”  it  Iieing  the  name  of  the  day  <^n  which  he  was 
captured.  At  first  he  was  wild  and  intractable,  and  liowled 
like  a wolf,  and  appeared  very  unhappy  away  from  the 
mother- wolf,  and  would  eat  only  raw  meat.  iTradnally,  and 
l)y  kind  treatment,  he  was  taught  to  stand  upon  his  feet  and 
to  walk,  and  even  now  he  walks  in  the  awkward  way  in  which 


15 


114 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIAHS. 


trained  quadrupeds  do  on  their  hind  feet.  It  has  required 
years  of  time  and  long-continued  patience  on  the  part  of  his 
manager  and  instructor  to  teach  him  the  few  short  words  he 
can  now  utter.  Although  he  understands  the  commands  given 
him,  still  he  makes  known  his  wants  by  signs  and  ejacula- 
tions. He  looks  wild,  and  keeps  his  lower  jaw  in  constant 
motion.  His  face  is  not  disagreeably  ugly,  although  it  is 
marked  with  scars,  prol)ahly  from  wounds  made  by  the  wolf. 
He  has  become  quite  tame,  and  seems  to  he  kindly  disposed. 

We  shall  not  linger  longer  in  Agra,  hut  depart  to-morrow 
for  Delhi. 


XIII 


Delhi.  More  Interest in(j  Si(/hts. 


ELHi,  December  18,  1875.  We  have  now  reached  our 


extreme  point  in  India.  From  this  time  our  direction 
leads  homeward.  Although  the  distance  from  Agra  to  tliis 
city  is  only  one  hundred  and  tlmdeen  miles,  yet  it  took  us 
nine  hours  to  make  it.  Rapid  transit  over  these  roads  is 
not  known.  The  country  along  the  route  is  nninteresting. 
We  saw  several  long  trains  of  camels  coming  from  tlie 
interior  districts,  loaded  with  provisions  and  other  products 
needed  by  the  troops  and  people  collected  to  see  and  honor 
the  Prince  of  Wales. 

On  om*  arrival  at  Northl)rook’s  bungalow  we  found  a small 
hre  l)urning  on  the  hearth,  sufficient  to  give  oiu‘  plainly  fiu*- 
nished  chamber  a conifortal)le  appearance.  The  I)laze  of  a 
few  fagots  in  a fire-place  in  this  country  is  more  cheering  in 
appearance  than  warming  in  effect.  This  is  the  first  hre  we 
have  had  in  a room  since  last  April,  when  we  were  at  home. 
The  nights  in  this  latitude  are  a little  chilly,  l)ut  the  days 
are  (piite  warm.  The  bungalows  here  are  vdthout  glass  win- 
dows. Blinds  with  immovable  slats  to  admit  light  and  pro- 
tect the  privacy  of  the  rooms  are  all  that  is  required  in  these 
public  houses.  Dming  the  day  everybody  sits  on  the  veraii- 


“5 


116 


ACROSS  THE  MERIDIANS. 


(Ins,  or  ill  tlie  sitting-rooms  with  the  entire  front  of  the  room 
opening  upon  them.  Above  the  outside  doors  of  the  bun- 
galow are  two  small  panes  of  glass,  just  sufficient  to  admit  a 
little  light  when  the  doors  are  closed,  dmiiig  the  falling  of 
rain. 

Tlie  principjd  point  of  interest  in  Dellii  is  the  palace  built 
iiy  Shah  Jehan,  at  one  time  the  gneat  Mogul  of  Delhi,  as 
well  as  of  Agra.  Its  architectim'  is  Saracenic,  and  similar 
to  that  of  tlie  palace  and  Taje  at  Agra.  The  grand  Audience- 
Hall,  one  hiindi’ed  and  ninety-two  feet  long  by  sixty  wide, 
is  where  the  famous  “Peacock  tlirone”  stood.  This  hall 
remains  intact  in  form  and  ornamentation,  lacking  only  its 
gorgeous  jioac'ock  throne.  Tlie  roof  of  the  hall  is  supported 
by  marlile  columns  richly  decorated  vdth  precious  stones. 
Tli(u*e  are  small  gutters  or  water-courses  running  along  the 
walls,  which  are  overlaid  with  mosaics  representing  varieties 
of  water  hfe,  as  in  the  palace  at  Agna.  Through  these  water- 
courses fresh  water  was  admitted,  which  cooled  somewhat 
and  freshened  the  atmosphere.  The  throne  was  of  gold,  and 
in  the  form  of  a peacock  with  full-spread  tail  which  formed 
the  back,  the  colors  of  a peacock  being  imitated  liy  the  vari- 
ous colored  precious  stones. 

It  is  said  that  no  pains  or  cost  were  siiared  to  procure  the 
finest  gems.  This  piece  of  work  contained  the  richest  col- 
lection of  fine  jewels  ever  made.  It  was  supported  by  six 
high  pillars  or  feet  of  massive  gold  and  set  with  rubies, 
emeralds,  and  diamonds.  When  the  emperor  sat  upon  his 
throne  he  wore  a turban  of  cloth  of  gold,  having  a bird  like 
a heron  wrought  upon  it,  whose  feet  were  covered  mth 
diamonds  of  large  size,  and  one  Oriental  topaz  that  shone 
like  tlie  sun  was  inserted  in  the  front  of  the  cap.  It  is  said 
the  father  of  the  emperor  induced  the  manufactiu'e  of  the 


THE  AUDIENCE  HALL  IN  THE  PALACE  AT  DELHI. 


DELHI.  MOKE  INTEKESTINO  SIGHTS. 


117 


throne,  in  order  to  display  the  wealth  of  precious  stones  that 
had  been  amassed  in  the  treasury  hy  despoiling  the  ancient 
pafaus  and  rcyc/cs,  and  from  the  presents  which  the  omrahs 
were  obliged  to  make  yearly  upon  certain  festival  days. 

A part  of  this  thi'one  is  now  in  Persia.  By  what  means 
or  at  what  date  it  was  carried  there,  1 cannot  say.*  It  is 
said  that  the  shah  who  hnilt  the  palace  intended  to  have 
had  the  veranda  overlooking  the  River  Jiniina,  which  laves 
the  foundation  of  the  })alace,  covered  with  a trellis  of  rubies 
and  emeralds  to  represent  ripe  and  green  grapes,  hut  tlie 
design  proving  too  chfficnlt  to  he  elalmrated,  he  was  ol;)hged 
to  abandon  this  marvelous  project.  The  shah  had  a magnifi- 
cent mosque  erected  in  the  name  of  his  favorite  daughter 
dnhanmra.  She  so  loved  her  father  that  she  shared  his 
captivity  when  he  was  deposed  l)y  a neighhoring  mogul. 

The  batlis  of  the  royal  family  are  still  in  a good  state  of 
preservation.  The  ornamentation  is  in  mosaics,  mostly  of 
coral,  ])lood-stone,  amethyst,  and  mother-of-pearl.  The  bath- 
ing-basins are  also  heantifnl  works  of  art.  As  in  the  Taje 
and  palaces  at  Agra,  the  diamonds,  rubies,  and  emeralds 
decorating  those  in  Delhi  were  cut  from  the  walls  hy  the 
vandals  who  sacked  Agra.  Some  of  these  cavities  have  been 
recently  filled  with  colored  glass  and  composition,  to  restore 
in  part  the  brilliant  effect  of  tlie  original  gems.  The  aiuhence- 
liall  has,  in  this  way,  nearly  regained  its  pristine  appearance. 
The  renovation  of  the  anthence-hall  has  been  undertaken  in 


* This  throne  with  all  its  Jewels  is  now  in  the  possession  of  tlie  Shah  of 
I’ersia,  and  stands  in  the  grand  audience-chandier  of  his  palace  in  Teheran. 
It  has  been  described  to  me  by  the  wife  of  the  late  United  States  minister 
to  Persia,  Mrs.  B.,  who  spent  several  years  at  that  court.  She  says  its 
value  can  scarcely  be  estimated,  as  many  of  the  jewels  are  nncnt.  Although 
the  larger  nnmber  of  the  stones  are  ent,  it  is  the  most  brilliant  combination 
of  jewels  known.  [Jnly,  18H5.] 


118 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


honor  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  who  will  give  audiences  to  the 
native  nobility  and  Enghsh  officials. 

The  peacock  throne  was  the  clief-(V oeuvre  of  Shah  Jehan’s 
niagnilicent  and  costly  rule.  It  is  to  he  renieinbered,  how- 
ever, that  the  wealth  of  the  Indias  — its  precious  stones  — 
was  at  the  service  of  the  ruling  sovereign ; he  liad  only  to 
conmiand,  and  tlie  sea  and  the  rocks  gave  forth  then-  hidden 
treasiu’es  ahnost  without  price. 

The  harem  of  the  palace  is  in  keeping  with  tlie  magnifi- 
cence of  its  other  chambers.  At  the  great  mosque  within 
the  palace  grounds  we  observed  many  men  in  the  large  bath- 
ing court  performing  their  ablutions  in  the  long  marble 
troughs  prej)aratory  to  entering  the  mosques  for  devotional 
exercise.  To-day  being  Friday,  the  Mohammedan  Sunday, 
there  is  an  opportunity  for  us  to  see  the  people  engaged  in 
theii*  devotional  duties  in  the  mosques.  The  women  do  not 
attend  the  services  in  the  mosques. 

We  have  seen  more  elephants  and  camels  in  the  transport 
service  here  than  elsewhere.  They  convey  families  about  in 
the  country,  as  the  occasion  occurs.  W e saw  a train  of  four- 
teen elephants  loaded  vdth  corn-stalks  coming  into  the  mar- 
ket-place. On  our  way  here  we  passed  by  a train  of  five 
hunffied  camels  loaded  with  produce  going  to  supply  the 
troops  stationed  along  the  fine  of  the  raikoad.  Camels  are 
used  to  draw  carriages ; this  is  indeed  a ciudous  timiout. 

The  bu*ds  seem  to  Ije  privileged  to  go  wherever  they  please 
in  Delhi.  They  come  into  the  house  and  alight  upon  the 
punkas  over  the  dining-table,  and  hop  down  to  partake  of 
anything  they  hke.  They  are  as  tame  as  chickens. 

Here  the  sliawl  and  jewehy  merchants  do  not  give  the 
traveler  an  hour’s  rest.  They  uisist  on  leaving  quantities  of 
their  wares  upon  the  fioor  of  your  sitting-room,  and  even 


DELHI.  MOKE  INTERESTING  SIGHTS. 


119 


after  one  has  made  some  pnrcliases,  tliey  will  hring'  more 
goods  and  leave  them  heaped  in  tlie  corners  of  the  room. 
The  merchants  wear  magnihcent  gold  chains  and  very  fine 
shawls.  The  poor  women  are  drudges,  and  live  hy  liegging 
in  the  streets. 

Tlie  cashmere  shawls  so  highly  appreciated  in  America 
and  Europe  come  from  the  province  of  Cashmere,  a monn- 
tainons  district  in  tlie  north  of  India.  The  piincipal  market 
for  the  shawls  is  Serinagnr,  wliere  tlie  rajah,  or  governor, 
imposes  a tax  on  every  shawl  mannfactnred  for  sale,  and  not 
a shawl  can  leave  tlie  province  without  his  consent.  They 
are  made  in  various  provinces,  and  must  he  hronght  to  Seri- 
nagnr  for  inspection  and  the  payment  of  duty.  From  tins 
point  they  are  transported  on  camels  to  the  railroad,  and 
thence  to  Dellii,  and  finally  to  Calcutta,  where  the  general 
shipping  market  is  found.  There  is  a veiy  good  sliawl,  worn 
hy  merchants  and  coachmen,  made  at  Umritznr.  A heanti- 
fnl  shawl  is  niannfactured  at  Rompore,  called  the  Rompore 
elniflda^  which  is  largely  worn  in  America.  It  is  worn  here 
by  the  lietter  class  of  merchants.  The  finest  shawls  fall  into 
the  hands  of  the  rajahs,  and  only  seldom,  and  at  very  high 
prices,  are  they  taken  out  of  the  conntry. 

We  caU  India  shawls  camel’s-hair  shawls,  hnt  this  is  a mis- 
nomer. Shawls  made  of  the  liair  of  camels  are  coarse  and 
heavy,  and  are  used  hy  the  soldiers  for  blankets.  The  wool 
from  which  the  fine  shawls  are  made  is  from  the  Cashmere 
goat  of  the  Himalaya  monntain  districts.  Thei*e  are  dif- 
ferent qualities  of  this  wool ; the  finest  is  a downy  growth  on 
the  skin  of  the  goat.  From  it  are  made  those  shawls  of 
fahnlons  prices,  one  of  which  cannot  he  bought  from  the 
mannfactnrers  for  less  than  €150  sterling.  1 have  seen  a 
Rompore  chudda  so  fine  in  texture  that  the  merchant  passed 


120 


ACKOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


it  lialf-way  through  a gold  ring  which  he  took  from  his  fin- 
ger, hut  it  was  not  one  of  the  choicest,  although  it  was  light 
and  gossanier-like  in  quality. 

The  shawls  ai’e  made  hy  the  dozen,  never  singly,  for  the 
reason  that  a numher  of  persons  are  employed  in  their  manu- 
facture, each  having  a particular  part  of  the  shawl  to  make, 
and  he  always  works  on  that  part.  Each  is  skilled  in  his 
special  work.  It  sometimes  requires  a year  for  thirty  men 
to  make  a dozen  shawls  of  a certain  quality.  The  weaving 
is  done  upon  small  hand-looms  lield  upon  the  lap  of  the 
operator.  The  patterns  are  traced  upon  cloth  and  so  dehii- 
eated  that  the  eye  readily  follows  the  colors  and  outlines. 
When  all  the  pieces  composing  the  shawl  are  finished  they 
are  put  into  the  hands  of  tailors  who  join  them  neatly 
together,  strengtliening  and  covering  the  seams  with  eni- 
lu’oidery.  If  any  of  the  designs  are  unfinished,  they  are 
completed  to  perfect  the  entu*e  pattern  of  the  shawl.  When 
the  shawl  is  finished  it  is  washed  and  pressed,  and  then  it  is 
ready  for  the  market.  Shawls  are  manufactured  hy  men 
whose  sons  are  instructed  to  succeed  them  in  the  business. 
The  highest  wages  earned  hy  the  shawl-weavers  is  from  six 
to  twelve  cents  a day,  on  which  their  famihes  are  supported. 
Tlie  shawls  which  the  rajahs  wear  are  marvels  of  beauty,  hut 
the  women  never  possess  any.  The  shawls  worn  hy  rajahs 
often  cost  as  much  as  $3000  of  our  money. 

In  India  the  waiters  are  called  “ hearers,”  a very  appropri- 
ate name  for  table-waiters.  In  one  part  of  our  bungalow  is 
a printing-office,  wliere  the  “Delhi  Gazette”  is  puhhshed  semi- 
weekly.  It  is  managed  hy  our  landlord,  an  Enghshman. 
The  steward  is  a Hindoo. 

On  oiu*  way  to  the  Kiifuh  Mi}uu\  eleven  miles  from  the 
city,  we  passed  an  encampment  of  thirty  thousand  Enghsh 


% 


t 


i; 


6 


[ 

m. 


THE  KUTUB  MINAR,  NEAR  DELHI 


DELHI.  MOKE  INTERESTING  .SIGHTS, 


121 


and  native  troops,  wlio  will  escort  tlie  Prince  of  Wales  into  ^ 
the  interior  of  the  country. 

We  met  scores  of  elephants  and  long-  trains  of  camels  car- 
rying provisions  and  forage  to  the  military  stations.  The 
camels  travel  slowly  and  never  lose  a cliance  to  nip  off  green 
twigs  fi'om  the  trees.  It  is  odd  enongh  to  follow  in  tlie  wake 
of  a camel  train  and  see  all  the  lower  liranches  of  the  trees 
stripped  of  their  leaves. 

We  i)assed  miles  of  rnins,  where  years  ago  had  lieen  cities. 

The  Kntnl)  Minar  is  another  of  India’s  architectnral  glories. 

It  was  Imilt  eight  Imndred  years  ago  hy  a reigning  emperor 
for  a favorite  daughter,  who  had  expressed  a wish  to  have  a 
tower  reaching  near  to  heaven,  on  the  top  of  which  she  might 
say  her  prayers.  The  erection  of  the  tower  was  I)egnn,  and  it 
recpiired  forty  years  to  complete  it.  The  devout  girl,  however, 
died  long  liefore  it  was  flnished.  When  completed  it  was 
three  Imndred  feet  high,  I)ut  many  years  ago  it  was  struck  hy 
lightning,  and  aliont  sixty  feet  of  its  heiglit  were  toppled  to 
the  gronnd.  The  liase  of  the  cohnnn  is  fifty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  the  top  thirteen  feet.  The  live  cylinders  of  clustered 
cohnnns  diminish  in  proportion  to  the  (hameter  of  the  tower. 
The  entu*e  Koran  is  engraved  upon  it.  Around  tlie  Kntnh 
Minar  are  the  ruins  of  a once-fanious  mosque  and  other 
echhces. 

Originally  theri^  was  a corridor  running  around  the  mosque 
supported  hy  one  thousand  stone  pillars,  upon  which  much 
of  the  traihtional  history  of  Iiuha  was  engraved.  There  yet 
remain  five  ImndriMl  of  these  pillars.  Along  the  frieze  of 
the  cohnnns  are  engraved  family  and  national  annals,  trilial 
laws,  Mohammedan  maxims,  verses  from  the  Koran,  battle 
and  other  scenes.  The  grounds  are  entered  liy  four  massive 
metal  gates.  It  is  said  they  were  sixty  feet  high  and  forty 


IG 


122 


ACKOSS  THE  MEEIDIAHS. 


feet  mde.  The  Kutul)  Minar  is  a masterpiece  of  man’s  handi- 
work. 

In  an  area  of  forty-five  miles  square  are  to  he  seen  ruins 
of  palaces  and  mosques  occupying  the  former  sites  of  Delhi, 
for  the  location  of  the  city  has  been  changed  many  tunes.  In 
olden  times  each  succeeding  emperor  built  a palace  at  some 
distance,  not  far  from  that  of  his  predecessor,  and  around  the 
new  echfice  the  rajahs  and  nobles  constructed  tlieu*  residences. 
Oftentimes  the  city  was  sacked  and  destroyed  by  usurping 
moguls,  who  would  Imild  anew  beyond  the  ruins.  In  later 
centuries  Delhi  has  not  changed  its  site,  and  is  now  a coni- 
l>act  and  well-built  city. 

We  returned  home  at  the  end  of  the  day  well  satisfied  with 
our  visit  to  the  Kutul)  Minar,  and  our  sight-seeing  among  the 
ancient  tombs  and  mosques,  and  the  ruined  X)alaces  of  the  old 
heathen  emperors. 


PORTION  OF  THE  CORRIDOR  SURROUNDING  THE  KUTUB  MINAR,  AT  DELHI, 


XIV 


1. 


iUaJiahad. 


LLAHABAD,  December  20,  1875.  We  left  Delhi  at  noon 


yesterday,  and  anlved  here  at  six  o’clock  this  morning. 
There  is  little  or  nothing  of  interest  to  he  seen  along  the  route 
besides  large  Imihes  of  Enghsh  troops  and  long  trains  of  ele- 
phants and  camels.  We  passed  an  English  regiment  which 
had  marched  four  lnmdi*ed  miles  in  five  weeks  and  was 
still  advancing  to  meet  the  Prince  of  Wales.  The  soldiers 
were  footsore  and  weary,  and  were  in  want  of  food.  Some 
of  the  baljiis,  or  native  raiPoad  officials,  along  the  route  wore 
beantitnl  cashmere  shawls,  althongli  these  men’s  legs  were 
hare  to  the  thighs. 

Onr  man  Boxoo  is  loyal  and  serviceable,  and  in  good  spuits, 
expecting  a pocketful  of  hacksJieesh  at  the  termination  of 
his  contract  to  take  ns  to  Bombay.  He  is  always  on  hand  at 
every  station  to  see  if  we  want  anything.  He  wears  a very  good 
white  Umritznr  shawl,  white  cotton  trousers,  and  white  tur- 
ban, and  although  barefooted  he  looks  quite  comme  il  fauf 
for  a servant  in  this  country.  Although  his  shawl  is  very 
much  soiled,  I shoidd  not  disdahi  to  wear  it  after  a thorough 
cleansing. 


123 


124 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKEDIANS. 


We  are  at  Laime’s  bungalow,  but  only  for  the  clay;  we 
leave  at  iiiidniglit  for  Bombay,  a journey  of  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  over  a rough  road,  in  the  express  mail  train, 
which  will  arrive  there  in  three  days. 

Next  to  Benares,  Allahabad  is  considered  l)y  the  Hindoos 
as  the  holiest  city  in  existence.  It  is  situated  just  at  the 
junction  of  the  Jnmna  River  vdth  the  Granges.  The  Hin- 
doos l)elieve  that  there  is  a third  invisil)le  and  celestial  river, 
which  flows  dmect  from  heaven  and  unites  with  these  waters 
at  Allahabad.  Pilgrims  are  visiting  this  place  constantly. 
On  their  arrival  they  have  their  bodies  carefully  shaved  and 
the  hair  thrown  into  the  river.  Them  sacred  wiitings  prom- 
ise that  tor  every  hair  thus  disposed  a million  of  years  is 
assured  the  l)eliever  in  paradise. 

We  have  seen  the  fort  built  here  about  foim  hundred  years 
ago.  The  most  interesting  ohject  at  the  tort  is  the  banyan 
tree,  which  is  said  to  be  fifteen  hundred  years  old.  It  does 
not  cover  so  much  space  as  the  gveat  haiiyan  at  Calcutta,  be- 
cause its  stocks  are  cut  off  when  they  l)ecome  too  inmierous 
for  the  space  in  the  court.  The  l)anyan  is  the  principal  shade 
tree  of  Allahabad. 

Early  this  morning  we  had  to  endm*e  the  irrepressible  jug- 
gler and  snake-charmer.  These  sliomnen,  swallovdng  fu‘e  and 
swords  and  maldng  live  lurds  OTit  of  nothing,  are  no  longer  in- 
teresting to  us.  The  l)ungaIow  is  quite  picturesque  in  its  way. 
Every  room,  including  the  kitchen,  opens  uito  a long  and  vnde 
conidor  extending  through  the  middle  of  the  huikhng,  at  one 
end  of  which  is  a veranda  inclosed  with  matting,  and  used 
as  a sitting-room  l)y  the  guests.  The  guest,  the  half -naked 
scullery-maid,  the  barefooted  cook  in  his  long  white  frock  and 
white  paper  cap,  the  trinket-i)eddler  wrapped  in  his  duly 
white  shawl,  pass  and  repass  one  another  continually  in  the 
corridor. 


ALLAHABAD. 


125 


Family  carriages  are  drawn  by  camels,  ami  althongli  they 
do  not  travel  gracet'nlly  and  swiftly,  yet  they  are  snre-footed 
and  tractable. 

There  are,  without  donl)t,  many  points  of  interest  here 
worthy  of  a visit,  l)iit,  as  onr  time  is  limited  by  the  sailing  of 
the  steamer  from  Boml)ay,  in  which  we  shall  go  to  Suez,  we 
prefer  to  spend  the  interval  in  Bombay. 


XV 


IJonihat/.  Hotel  Watson  on  the  Esplanade. 

OMBAY,  Deceinl^er  26,  1875,  We  arrived  here  on  the  22d 


hist.,  after  riding  three  days  on  a rough  raih'oad.  Witliin 
eighty  miles  of  Bonilmy  the  scenery  is  grand  and  somewhat 
like  that  of  the  Sierra  Xevadas  in  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
This  part  of  the  road  was  bordered  with  hedges  of  wild  cacti 
in  l)lossoni.  We  passed  a few  small  mnd  villages  hnt  no 
town  of  any  importance.  The  mountain  district,  a few 
miles  from  the  raih*oad,  is  the  nndisturljed  home  of  tigers, 
panthers,  and  leopards.  At  some  of  the  stations  on  the  road 
the  trees  were  alive  with  monkeys  and  lm*ds  of  heantiful 
plumage.  The  monkeys  congregate  in  the  trees  nearest  the 
stations,  and  seem  to  he  seriously  ohsermiig  the  life  al)out 


It  is  said  that  hi  the  heart  of  the  Bonil)ay  presidency,  two 
linii(h*ed  miles  west  of  Jnhnlpore,  there  is  a vast  region  of 
jungles  and  forests  nninhahited  by  man,  which  has  never 
been  reclaimed  from  the  dominance  of  wild  beasts.  The  dis- 
trict contains  choice  woods  and  vast  quantities  of  fruits. 
We  saw  many  kinds  of  tropical  fruits  growing  nncnltivated 
along  the  road  and  in  great  profusion. 


them. 


126 


BOIMRAY  AJSTD  HOTEL  WATSON. 


127 


Here  the  climate  is  deliglittul.  The  days  are  like  those  of 
our  lovely  June,  and  the  nights  are  freshened  l)y  sea  l)reezes. 
Our  hotel  is  pleasantly  situated  just  off  the  l)each  of  Boinl)ay 
Bay,  and  within  sound  of  the  surf  dashing  upon  the  rocks  at 
the  entrance  to  tlie  Imy.  We  liave  upon  the  second  floor  of 
the  hotel  a wide  veranda  inclosed  with  curttdns  of  matting 
and  a hedge  of  potted  plants.  A score  or  more  of  cages  con- 
taining singing  birds  are  suspended  from  the  root  of  the 
veranda.  Here  ai*e  reclining-chairs  and  pretty  little  l3aml)oo 
tal)les  on  which  are  placed  flowers  and  hooks.  Tlie  hotel 
is  a comfortable,  liomelike  place,  and  enjoyable  to  us  after 
om*  long  and  weary  journey.  The  liouse  is  l)uilt  after  the 
English  style.  We  get  good  roast  beef,  excellent  bread,  and 
delicious  fruits.  The  chainl)er  work  is  well  and  cpiickly  done 
by  l)are-legged  native  men.  We  have  not  had  a woman  for 
chanil)erwork  since  the  1st  of  Septeml)er.  There  are  no 
women  servants  in  the  liotels  on  this  side  of  the  globe. 
Foreign  ladies  residing  in  India  and  China  have  (ijjalis,  or 
maids,  who  keep  near  their  mistresses.  Here  scarcely  a 
woman,  European  or  native,  is  seen  walking  on  the  streets. 

The  market  house  is  the  finest  we  have  seen.  It  has  a 
I)eautiful  park  and  flower  garden.  Bills  of  water  in  clean 
stone  gutters  ruuning  through  the  l)uilding  and  crossing  one 
another  at  intervals  contriI>ute  no  little  to  the  freshness  of 
tlie  atmosphere.  We  saw  many  varieties  of  native  vegetables 
and  fruits,  and  mounds  of  api)etizing  currie  powders.  The 
nearly  naked  market  women  were  gorgeous  in  neck  chains 
and  other  fashionable  jewelry  of  the  country.  Several  of 
them  had  on  their  necks  a half  dozen  long  gold  chains  which 
hung  down  to  their  waists.  The  Indian  gold  and  silver  work 
is  lieautiful.  It  is  made  by  tlie  slow  process  of  hand-lieatiiig ; 
consequently  the  designs  are  not  as  regular  in  shape  as  those 


128 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


formed  l)y  macliinery.  Neitlier  is  the  l)urnishing  so  well  done, 
but  it  has  a rich  brilliancy.  The  women  sit  cross-legged 
on  low  tables,  with  their  wares  attractively  arranged  before 
them.  Their  faces  are  not  nnprei>ossessing,  hut  on  the  con- 
trary have  a sympathetic  expression.  The  market  women 
smilingly  glanced  at  ns  while  we  were  examining  their  goods 
and  hnying  some  of  their  fruit. 

The  street-cars  in  Bombay  have  the  name  of  “ Jones  & 
Co.,  Ijnilders,  West  Troy.”  Every  car  that  I see  pass  seems  to 
me  a home-tie.  It  does  not  appear  real  that  we  are  in  India 
with  home-constrncted  cars  x^assing  our  house  every  quarter 
of  an  hour. 

Bombay  has  a x)ox)nlation  of  six  linndred  thonsand,  includ- 
ing a very  large  English  colony.  Al)ont  one-tenth  of  the  in- 
hal)itants  are  Parsees,  many  of  whom  are  wealthy  hankers 
and  rich  merchants.  'They  live  in  l^eantiful  villas  in  the 
snlmrljs,  and  carry  on  then*  lousiness  in  a jDarticular  district 
of  the  city.  As  seen  in  the  streets,  they  dress  in  rich  silks, 
having  x)antaloons  of  red  or  orange  satin  and  long  frocks 
of  a differently  colored  silk.  They  wear  high-i^ointed  black 
head-gear,  gold  neck-chains,  and  jeweled  hnger-rings.  They 
have  a very  dignified  ax'>x3earance,  and  look  as  if  existence 
was  of  serious  importance  to  them. 

In  the  streets  little  Parsee  l)oys,  richly  di'cssed  in  velvets 
and  jewels,  are  seen  accomxianied  by  then*  fathers  or  in- 
structors. The  Parsees  worship  the  sim  as  the  source  of 
light,  heat,  and  life,  and  the  emhodiment  of  dhfinity.  They 
live  together  in  families,  or  gronx)S  of  relations,  often  embrac- 
ing as  many  as  fifty  j)ersons.  They  do  not  hnry  then*  dead, 
hut  i)lace  them  on  grated  fioors  in  towers  about  fifty  feet 
high,  ox^en  at  the  tox>,  called  the  “ Towers  of  Silence.”  Under 
the  grated  fioors  of  the  towers  are  l)eds  of  lime.  Vultures  fiy 


BOIVIBAY  AND  HOTEL  WATSON. 


129 


to  tlie  floors  and  devour  tlie  flesh  of  the  dead.  The  hones  fall 
through  the  gTating  and  are  soon  decomposed  by  the  lime. 

The  Parsee  is  very  rigid  in  his  religious  duties.  He  kneels 
down  just  wherever  he  chances  to  he  at  sunset,  and  begins 
his  devotions.  I believe  the  Parsees  have  no  temple,  but 
worship  always  in  the  open  au\  I have  daily  observed  a 
Parsee  enter  at  sunset  a vacant  lot  opposite  our  hotel  to 
engage  in  his  devotions.  He  flrst  takes  off  an  outer  garment 
and  spreads  it  upon  the  gTound,  on  which  he  kneels  mth  his 
face  toward  the  setting  sun.  He  tlien  further  disrol)es  him- 
self until  but  one  white  undergarment  remains  upon  his 
body.  He  then  bares  his  breast  and  sprinkles  his  head, 
chest,  arms,  and  hands  three  times  with  water  from  a small 
basin  at  his  side.  Tlien  he  hows  Ids  head  to  the  gTound,  and 
after  short  intervals  twice  bows  his  head  again  as  he  had  first 
done.  At  last,  having  been  engaged  in  his  devotions  for  a 
half  hour,  he  rises,  puts  on  Ids  garments,  and  goes  his  way. 

The  Itaha  carts,  or  “ jingling  johnnies,”  which  I have 
already  mentioned,  are  cpieer-looking  vehicles.  Imagine  a 
two-wheeled,  open,  gayly  pauited  cart,  with  seats  for  four 
persons  sitting  sidewise  and  resting  them  feet  on  a little  plat- 
form over  the  wheels,  (h’awm  liy  two  bullocks,  or  buffalo 
cows.  The  driver  sits  on  the  tongue  of  the  cart  between 
the  animals,  and  drives  with  a rope  fastened  to  then*  heads. 
If  more  vigorous  urging  is  needed  to  make  the  animals  accel- 
erate their  speed  than  lashing  them  from  time  to  time  with 
the  rope,  the  driver  jerks  their  tails,  which  causes  the  bul- 
locks to  canter.  The  ears  and  necks  of  the  animals  are  gayly 
decorated  with  bells  and  long  red  and  yellow  cotton  streamers. 
If  a yoke  of  bullocks  is  attached  to  a very  showy  vehicle, 
their  tails  are  often  di*essed  with  streamers,  bows,  and  tinsel 
ornaments. 


17 


130 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


The  caves  of  Elephanta,  six  miles  distant  on  an  island  in 
the  hay,  are  nsnally  visited  by  travelers,  hnt  I was  not  in- 
clined to  cross  the  hay  when  the  water  was  rough  and  the  caves 
were  dark  and  uninviting.  I understand  there  are  several 
high  chainhers  in  them  with  wonderful  stalactites  and  stalag- 
mites to  he  seen, 

Christmas  passed  as  any  other  day.  At  dinner  a fine  plum- 
pudding, all  ablaze,  was  Inmightin  for  dessert.  We  were  with 
you  in  spirit;  hut  no  “Meny  Clnlstmas”  greetings  were 
audible. 

Buffalo  cow  milk  and  butter  are  not  rehshed  l)y  us,  and 
therefore  very  sparingly  partaken  of. 

Jugglers  and  snake-charmers  x)erforni  every  day  just  before 
dusk  in  the  street  before  our  hotel.  Their  entertainments 
have  become  very  dull  to  us.  However,  we  did  see  an  inex- 
plicalde  trick  the  other  day.  Two  large  baskets  were  placed 
upside  down  in  the  middle  of  the  street.  The  juggler,  with  a 
dourish  of  a long,  narrow  sword,  ordered  a naked  httle  hoy  to 
get  under  one  of  them.  After  another  l)randish  of  his  sword, 
he  thrust  it  apparently  through  the  basket  under  which  we 
liad  seen  the  hoy  go.  Again  waving  his  sword  in  the  air,  the 
juggler  raised  tlie  l)asket,  l)ut  the  l)oy  was  not  there.  He 
raised  the  other  basket,  heneath  which  the  little  heathen 
appeared. 

The  statistics  of  the  population  of  India,  given  by  an  Eng- 
lish official,  are  the  following : In  British  Indifi  is  a popula- 
tion of  aljout  260,000,000,  including  180,000,000  Hindoos, 
60,000,000  Mussulmans,  14,000,000  Aborigines,  4,000,000 
Buddhists,  1,500,000  Asiatic  Christians,  Cathohc  and  Prot- 
estant, including  the  British  soldiery,  180,000  Parsees, 

100.000  Eurasians,  160,000  Europeans,  10,000  Jews,  and 

5.000  Armenians. 


BOMBAY  AND  HOTEL  WAT80N. 


131 


Although  I have  written  you  frequent  and  long  letters  in 
these  last  months,  I have  not  even  nientioned  many  of  the 
novel  and  wonderful  things  we  have  seen  and  heard.  With 
little  time  to  give  to  correspondence,  1 am  compelled  to  write 
hiuTiedly,  and  mostly  in  the  evening  after  a day  of  fatiguing 
sight-seeing.  It  has  been  my  constant  desire  to  have  yon 
follow  ns  with  some  interest,  and  therefore  I have  often 
written  yon  when  1 should  have  been  in  l)ed  aslee]). 

We  leave  Bombay  to-morrow  for  Suez  and  Cau*o. 


XVI 


From  Bomhuu  to  Suez. 


N board  the  Banfialore,  December  30, 1875.  In  the  cooler 


climate  of  Nortlierii  India,  we  have  nearly  recovered 
from  the  deleterious  effects  of  troi)ical  heat,  and  now  with 
good  care,  which  means  taking  daily  generous  doses  of 
qninine,  we  hope  to  get  to  Europe  in  good  health.  Althongh 
both  of  ns  have  suffered  more  or  less  from  change  of  clunate 
and  food,  we  do  not  regnet  the  undertaking  of  this  long 
joimiey.  We  liave  not  always  fonnd  food  to  suit  our  taste, 
the  meats  generally  being  tough  and  dry,  the  l)read  frequently 
sour  and  gritty,  the  coffee  execrable,  the  vegetables  coarse 
and  rank,  excepting  potatoes,  rice,  and  caulillower. 

Among  all  the  fruits  in  India,  there  are  only  two  or  three 
that  we  rehshed.  They  were  generally  too  sweet  and  insipid. 
Summer  is  the  season  in  which  the  finit  of  the  country  is 
most  highly  enjoyed.  It  is  not  always  prudent  to  (Mnk  the 
water  in  these  tropical  countries,  but  we  have  fonnd  good 
Enghsh  beer  and  French  claret  wherever  we  have  gone,  and 
a cup  of  good  coffee  or  tea  is  prized  by  ns  at  all  tunes.  One 
naturally  expects  to  get  excellent  coffee  near  Java  and  Moclia, 
but  we  have  not  had  it  at  the  hotels  or  on  shipljoard.  Coffee 
and  tea  are  properly  made  here  only  l>y  European  residents.  In 


132 


FEOM  BOMBAY  TO  SUEZ. 


133 


England  an  extract  of  coffee  is  made  from  the  l)erry  shipped 
from  tliis  conntiy,  and  which  is  sent  to  India  and  China  for 
tlie  nse  of  hotels  and  ships. 

The  B(ni(/((Jore  is  a small  slnp,  comfortable  and  clean. 
Tliere  are  twenty  cal)in  passengers,  inclnding  live  childron. 
We  liave  nice  marl)le  tnl)s  in  which  to  take  om  morning 
sea-water  baths.  The  pnnkas  over  the  cal)in  tables  are  kept 
in  motion  fi*om  early  morning  until  midnight,  and  therefore 
we  do  not  suffer  nincli  from  tropical  heat. 

New  Year’s  Day,  1876.  A “ Ha]3j)y  New  Year”  to  yon  all 
fi'om  the  Arabian  Sea  ! 

Bnt  the  new  year,  however,  will  have  finished  its  second 
month  before  yon  receive  the  salutation.  We  are  enjoying 
the  charming  weather,  and  are  sailing  with  scarcely  a ripple- 
on  the  water.  The  cabin  steward  has  informed  ns  that  we 
shall  have  a splendid  pliim-cake  for  dinner.  We  would  pre- 
fer some  ice  to  all  the  x)lnni-cakes  in  Christendom.  The 
want  of  ice  has  been  one  of  the  gi’eat  discomforts  of  onr 
Indian  tour..  The  food  on  the  Bangalore  is  excellent,  and 
we  are  greatly  benefited  in  health  and  strength  by  the 
voyage.  We  have  each  lost  more  than  twenty  pounds  in 
weight  during  the  last  two  montlis. 

January  4,  1876.  We  are  now  in  the  Red  Sea.  Yesterday 
we  anchored  for  the  day  off  Aden.  It  is  a forlorn-looldng 
place,  from  onr  point  of  view.  Just  back  of  the  coast  there 
are  fifty  thousand  natives  living  among  the  rocks  of  that 
sterile  region.  The  few  English  officials  stationed  at  Aden 
reside  on  the  beach.  The  principal  products  of  the  penin- 
snla  are  coffee  and  ostrich  feathers.  The  Mocha  coffee,  so 
highly  appreciated  by  ns  at  home,  is  cidtivated  on  the  coast 


134 


ACEOSS  THE  JMEEIDIANS. 


near  Aden,  bnt  tlie  best  is  from  the  country  north  of  Mocha. 
Ostrich  farming  is  engaged  in  extensively  by  the  people  of 
the  peninsula.  Some  of  the  natives  came  on  board  with  bags 
of  beautiful  featliers,  of  whicli  the  ladies  made  pimchases. 

We  were  also  visited  by  a number  of  jugglers  and  snake- 
charmers.  The  most  wonderful  trick  which  the  jugglers  per- 
formed was  ch-awing  pots  of  natural  flowers  from  then*  long 
flowing  sleeves.  The  prestidigitators  sit  down  upon  the  deck 
and  perform  their  feats  of  legerdemain  with  no  other  appara- 
tus than  a small  canvas  l)ag  in  which  they  carry  then*  snakes. 

A score  of  thvers  surrounded  our  ship  and  performed  vari- 
ous curious  evolutions  in  the  water.  They  would  fhve  down 
with  both  hands  frdl  of  Ijalls  and  return  with  the  sixpence 
previously  thrown  into  the  water  between  their  teeth,  show- 
ing that  they  had  picked  it  up  without  using  then*  hands. 

There  was  no  inducement  to  go  ashore,  and  we  remained 
on  Imard  to  Ije  entertained  as  mentioned. 

In  entering  the  Red  8ea  we  passed  through  the  narrow  and 
rocky  channel  called  the  Straits  of  Bal^-el-Mandel),  Gate  of 
Tears,  so  named  l)ecause  of  the  many  accidents  which  have 
occurred  there.  Happily  we  sailed  safely  through  the  straits. 

We  have  on  board  Mr.  C.,  who  crossed  the  Pacific  with  us. 
Such  unexpected  reunions  are  some  of  the  pleasant  incidents 
of  travel.  So  far,  I have  recorded  the  time  taken  to  travel, 
and  the  chstances  l)etween  the  places  which  we  have  visited. 
These  data  I will  show  you  on  our  return  home. 

January  8,  187(1.  We  expect  to  arrive  in  Suez  to-moiTow. 
Although  the  weather  has  been  extremely  warm,  there  have 
l^een  no  storms  to  render  the  voyage  tlu’ough  the  Red  Sea 
otherwise  unpleasant.  Sometimes  when  the  vund  is  with 
the  ship  the  steamers  are  obliged,  on  account  of  the  intense 


FROM  BOMBAY  TO  SUEZ. 


135 


heat,  to  turn  and  retrace  tlieir  way  for  hours  in  order  to  liave 
the  l)eneftt  of  tlie  l.)reeze  and  then  return  over  tlie  same  track 
at  night.  From  Aden  to  Suez  is  a six  days’  voyage. 

We  liave  seen  parts  of  tlie  coast  of  Arabia,  Abyssinia,  and 
Nubia.  We  passed  Mecca  at  night.  We  had  a distant  view 
of  Mount  Sinai;  it  is  tlmee  hundred  miles  from  Suez.  We 
sailed  by  the  place  where  the  Israelites  crossed  the  Red  Sea 
on  dry  land.  This  traditional  spot  is  very  near  tlie  head  of 
the  Red  Sea.  There  the  water  is  shallow,  and  when  certain 
winds  blow  it  is  dihicult  to  take  steamers  over  the  sand-bars. 


XVII 


Cairo.  The  Land  of  the  Pharaohs. 


AiRO,  January  26,  1876.  Now  we  are  in  tlie  land  of  the 


Pharaohs.  We  arrived  in  Cah*o  on  tlie  10th  inst.  From 
Bomhay  to  Suez  is  a voyage  of  three  thousand  miles.  We 
feel  that  we  are  again  in  a land  of  European  ciwlization.  We 
find  a most  comfortahle  home  at  Shephard’s  Hotel.  We  have 
a conimo(hoiis  room  on  the  first  floor  vdth  the  vdndows  eni- 
l)Owered  under  vines  and  roses.  From  Suez,  where  we  left  the 
steamer,  to  this  city  is  a jomiiey  of  nine  hours.  The  road 
passed  through  an  edge  of  the  Gfreat  Sahara  Desert,  running 
for  many  miles  over  the  sandy  plain.  We  had  in  sight  long 
stretches  of  the  Suez  Canal.  We  ran  along  for  miles  in  the 
valley  of  the  Nile ; this  is  a rich  and  fertile  tract  of  land, 
which  in  comparison  to  the  desert  looks  like  ril)l)ons  of  green 
laid  down  ni)on  either  side  of  the  river. 

At  last  our  home  letters  and  papers  have  reached  us,  and 
we  have  had  a l)usy  day  perusing  them. 

A succession  of  agreeal)le  incidents,  including  a reunion 
with  some  friends,  among  whom  were  the  W.’s,  of  Syracuse, 
the  continuance  of  fi*esh  and  invigorating  breezes,  the  com- 
forts of  a good  hotel,  and  the  consciousness  of  l)eiug  near  if 
not  among  civihzed  people,  have  caused  us  to  enjoy  very  much 


136 


THE  LAND  OF  THE  PHAEAOHS. 


137 


om*  two -weeks’  sojoiu*n  in  Cairo.  We  have  fully  occupied 
oiu*  time  here  iu  sight-seeing,  and  not  until  almost  onr  last 
day  have  I found  time  to  give  yon  another  chapter  from  my 
itinerary. 

In  the  garden  of  onr  hotel  are  several  l)eantifnl  pelicans  as 
tame  as  chickens,  and  in  an  inclosiire  at  the  rear  of  the  house 
there  is  an  ostrich  })en  where  are  kej)t  seven  very  large 
ostiiches,  two  of  which  are  Idack  with  feathers  as  lustrous  as 
the  finest  satin.  When  I have  proffered  them  bread  from  a 
window  ten  feet  from  the  ground  they  have  stretched  their 
long  necks,  and  taken  it  with  great  delight.  Besides  the 
othei*  attractions  of  om*  hotel,  there  is  a nnml)cr  of  Cterman 
gills  composing  an  orchestra,  who  give  dinner  concerts  tvdce 
a week. 

The  street  scenes  in  Cairo  are  unlike  anything  we  have  seen 
elsewhei’e.  Camels  and  donkeys  are  the  common  carriers  of 
burdens.  Ai'ahian  horses  are  used  for  canlage  service  among 
the  nobility.  Donkeys  are  more  convenient  for  travelers 
going  to  different  parts  of  the  city  and  making  short  excur- 
sions in  the  snlmrlis.  The  nnpaved  roads  are  so  lieavy  with 
sand  that  it  is  difficult  for  horses  to  drag  carriages  along  them. 

It  is  the  custom  of  tourists  to  ascend  the  Nile  as  far  as  the 
first  cataract,  an  excursion  of  three  weeks.  Inasmuch  as  onr 
time  is  limited,  we  must  omit  going  up  the  river. 

I have  had  the  pleasure  of  making  a visit  to  the  Khedive’s 
harem,  where  I went  upon  invitation  of  tlie  Princess  Mansoor, 
the  eldest  daughter  of  the  Khedive  by  his  first  wife,  and  the 
only  wife  of  Pasha  Mansoor.  The  princess  very  graciously 
received  us — the  wife  of  the  American  Consul  and  myself. 
She  speaks  French  and  we  were  alile  to  converse  with  her. 
A lady  of  honor  attended  her.  We  were  met  at  the  entrance 
of  the  palace  garden  by  foiu*  handsome  young  Cmcassian 


18 


138 


ACliOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


slaves  beautifully  attired  in  l)riglit,  long-trained  silk  dresses, 
wearing  jaunty,  gayly  colored  silk  tiu’bans,  satin  slippers,  and 
rich  jewelry.  They  grasped  our  hands,  and  conducted  us, 
each  of  us  walking  l)etween  two  slaves,  to  the  door  of  the 
l)alace,  where  we  were  received  hy  two  Nubians,  male  slaves, 
dressed  in  rich  broadcloth,  and  four  slave  girls  l)eautifully 
arrayed  in  many  colors.  The  girls  laid  aside  our  wraps 
and  then  conducted  us  through  a long  and  wide  corridor 
and  up  a magniticent  marble  staircase,  a girl  oii  each  side 
of  us,  who  almost  lifted  us  up  the  stairs  as  if  to  spare  us 
the  effort  of  walking. 

We  were  sliown  into  a large  and  ricldy  fiunislied  waiting- 
room,  where  we  were  received  l)y  the  princess’s  lady  of  honor 
and  offered  chil)ouks  and  coffee.  The  stems  of  the  chibouks 
were  about  six  feet  long,  with  mouth-pieces  of  aml)er  and 
l)Owls  of  gold,  and  were  covered  wdth  gold  and  silver  filigree 
work.  The  mouth-pieces  were  encircled  with  (hamonds, 
rubies,  and  emeralds.  Silver  plates  were  placed  upon  the 
door  at  convenient  distances  to  rest  the  bowls  upon.  We 
admired  the  heautiful  pipes,  and  regnetted  for  the  moment 
that  American  ladies  had  not  acqumed  the  habit  of  smoking 
tol)acco,  whereu])on  we  were  relieved  of  the  jeweled  pipes. 
We  were  served  ’with  coffee,  <)  la  ftirque,  in  cui)-holders  stud- 
ded with  diamonds,  which  we  knew  l>etter  how  to  apin-eciate 
than  the  chil)ouks. 

Very  soon  six  more  pretty  slaves,  beautifully  dressed  and 
richly  jeweled,  came  to  announce  that  the  princess  would 
receive  us.  After  passing  through  several  magnificent  rooms 
followed  by  the  train  of  gh*ls,  we  reached  the  door  of  the 
grand  salon,  where  the  princess,  surrounded  hy  a hevy  of  still 
more  richly  attired  slaves,  advanced  to  meet  us  and  led  the 
way  to  a large  and  luxurious  divan  on  which  we  seated  oin*- 


THE  LAND  OP  THE  PHAlLiOHH. 


139 


selves.  Chibouks  were  then  brought  t(j  us  again  which  we 
lield  in  our  hands  while  the  princess  made  graceful  use  of 
hers.  She  kindly  accepted  our  regrets  for  ahstaiiiing  from 
smoking,  and  said  that  she  was  really  sorry  that  we  could 
not  enjoy  what  to  her  was  a great  pleasime.  The  tol^acco 
was  so  highly  perfumed  that  the  tobacco  odor  was  entirely 
destroyed.  Coffee  was  again  served.  Afterward  the  prin- 
cess was  handed  a box  on  a golden  salver,  from  which  she 
took  a jeweled  cigarette-holder,  and  having  placed  in  it  a 
cigarette  from  a dainty  little  gold  and  silver  tree  standing 
u})on  an  ivory  table  near  the  divan,  smoke<l  the  cigarette 
as  enjoyably  as  she  had  the  chibouk.  The  salon  was  splen- 
didly furnished  and  ornamented.  The  only  picture  in  it 
was  a life-size  portrait  of  the  Khechve. 

After  chatting  pleasantly  for  a half  hour,  the  princess 
having  taken  each  by  the  hand,  and  walldng  lietween  us, 
conducted  us  to  her  beautiful  l)oudoir.  She  called  our  atten- 
tion to  the  arrangement  of  its  furniture,  entirely  Oriental  in 
style,  which  slie  said  she  iiad  designed.  It  was  indeed  ele- 
gant, with  its  tine  mirrors  and  antique  furniture,  partly  cov- 
ered with  rich  Persian  fabrics  end)roidered  with  gold  and  sil- 
ver. Baskets  and  mounds  of  artificial  dowers  were  tastefully 
disposed  about  the  room.  AU  the  doral  decorations  ui  the 
palace  were  of  the  tinest  French  artificial  dowers.  She  then 
led  us  into  her  study,  a real  bijou  of  a room.  Its  walls  were 
faced  with  muTors,  and  the  ceiling  was  elaborately  gilded, 
light  being  admitted  from  the  ceiling  through  stained  glass, 
for  there  were  no  windows  in  the  room.  In  the  center  of  the 
room  was  a luxmious  divan  covered  with  crimson  velvet 
embroidered  with  gold,  and  pillows  of  the  same  material. 
Near  the  divan  was  a gold  and  ivory  table  on  which  were 
a chibouk  and  a golden  tobacco-box.  On  another  ivory  table 


140 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


near  it  was  a large  salver  of  silver  and  gold  on  wliicli  were  a 
Oasin  and  ewer.  It  was  the  princess’s  toilet-tal)le.  Near  at 
liaiid  WTis  a towel  of  white  silk  embroidered  with  gold  and 
silver,  and  a vase  of  Bohemian  glass  containing  perfumed 
water.  There  were  also  ornaments  of  gold,  silver,  and  ala- 
l)aster  in  the  room. 

The  princess  took  ns  each  hy  the  hand  again  and  con- 
ducted ns  to  another  l»eantitnl  room  in  which  we  were  served 
with  a delicious  corthal  in  golden  cnps,  vdth  napkins  em- 
hroidered  vdth  gold  thread.  Here  the  princess  gTacefnlly 
tlianked  ns  for  the  visit,  and  retned  to  her  hoiidou*  followed 
hy  the  attendants  wlio  had  accompanied  us  through  the 
palace.  W e descended  the  staircase,  supported  on  either  side 
l)y  the  same  girls  who  had  escorted  us  up  the  stau-s,  and 
were  attended  to  our  carriage  in  tlie  same  manner  as  we  were 
met  on  our  arrival. 

'Idiere  were  twenty-tive  slaves  in  attendance  during  our 
visit  of  two  and  a halt  Iioiirs.  The  princess  has  fifty  Cmcas- 
sian  slaves  at  her  command.  Everywhere  we  went  in  the 
palace  the  air  was  perfumed.  The  princess  wtis  more  simply 
dressed  than  her  women.  Slie  wore  a plain  hut  elegant 
(,h‘ess  of  brown  silk  with  trimmings  and  ornaments  of  tor- 
toise-shell elaborately  carved,  having  on  them  a crovm  and 
the  letter  “I.”  This  letter  is  found  on  all  the  royal  emblems, 
it  being  the  initial  letter  of  the  Khechve’s  name,  “ Ismail.” 
Princess  Mansoor  is  a handsome  blonde  Circassian  with 
bright  red  hau\  Her  lady  of  honor  is  a Erencli  woman,  a 
hrunette,  whose  hair  is  dyed  red  to  please  the  princess.  The 
princess’s  mother  is  a beautiful  blonde,  who  is  even  hand- 
somer than  her  daughter. 

The  (-rezeereh  palace  is  the  finest  of  all  the  palaces  in  Camo. 
It  is  tlie  palace  in  which  royal  or  distinguished  guests  are 


THE  GEZEEREH  PALACE,  IN  CAIRO. 


THE  LANH  of  the  PHARAOHS. 


141 


lodged.  The  Khedive  occupies  a luxiuious  lumgalow  in  the 
palace  garden  when  tliere  are  guests  at  Giezeereh.  Tlie  Prince 
of  Wales  was  lodged  there  when  on  Ins  way  to  India.  Em- 
press Eugenie  also  occupied  it  at  tlie  time  of  the  opening  of 
tlie  Suez  Canal.  In  it  is  a suite  of  fom*  magnificent  rooms 
connected  with  an  alaljaster  hath-room.  These  •chamljers  are 
tapestried  with  l>lne  satin  and  gilt  trimmings.  Tlie  ceilings 
are  canopied  witli  the  same  materials.  Then*  decorations,  as 
well  as  the  toilet  porcelain  ware,  are  Idue  and  gilt.  There  are 
also  l)eautiful  ornaments  and  pieces  of  furnitm'c  made  of  ala- 
baster. In  the  salon  are  a pan*  of  large  Sevres  vases  on  which 
are  painted  the  portraits  of  tlie  French  emperor  and  empress. 
The  lunch-room,  although  not  large,  is  finely  proportioned. 
In  each  corner  of  it  is  an  alabaster  fountain,  whicli,  when 
notalfie  guests  are  entertained,  sponts  perfumed  water.  The 
tables  in  it  are  of  alaliaster,  and  the  di'aperies  are  of  lilue  satin. 
In  the  center  of  the  room  is  a small  fonntain  from  which  flows 
at  times  hurning  kerosene  oil  to  illuminate  the  apartment. 
The  salons  are  resplendent  in  them  crimson  and  white  velvet 
and  gold-emliroidered  white  satin  hangings  and  upholstering. 
In  one  of  them  are  two  alabaster  mantels  inlaid  with  rare 
stones  supporting  muTors  reachuig  to  the  ceiling,  which  are 
framed  in  inlaid  alabaster.  Tlie  stamcase  is  another  attractive 
work  of  art.  It  is  of  white  niarhle  and  inlaid  with  choice 
stones  forming  anticpie  designs. 

In  the  grand  entrance  hall  is  a bust  of  Benjainin  Franklin, 
mounted  on  an  alaliaster  pedestal,  sinmoimted  with  the  form 
of  a hoy  holding  a hghtning-rod  upon  which  the  electricity 
has  been  caught  and  is  lieing  conducted  away.  This  a beauti- 
ful tribute  to  the  memory  of  oim  owni  Erankhn.  It  was  pre- 
sented to  the  Khedive  by  the  King  of  Italy  on  the  occasion  of 
the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal. 


142 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


There  is  an  exquisite  marl^le  kiosk  at  one  end  of  the  veranda 
of  the  palace  in  whicli  there  is  a pretty  breakfast-room.  The 
room  is  hned  with  mirrors  and  trimmed  with  artihcial  flowers. 
In  each  corner  are  exquisite  little  alabaster  fonntains  from 
which  hows  perfumed  water.  The  palace  is  siuTonnded  by 
beantifnl  gardens,  containing  several  fountains  and  some  hue 
old  shade  trees. 

There  is  also  the  Shoohra  palace,  aljoiit  an  hour’s  ride  from 
Gezeereh  , another  wonder  of  Oriental  architectiue  and  splen- 
dor. The  aveime  lea(hng  to  the  palace  is  three  miles  long, 
and  is  l)ordered  on  both  sides  vhth  acacia  and  sycamore 
trees.  It  is  the  fashional)le  drive.  There  every  afternoon 
may  he  seen  the  linest  turnouts  of  the  foreign  residents,  the 
Kliethve’s  magnihcent  carriages,  drawn  l>y  Ai’abian  horses 
with  outriders  in  uniforms  and  decorations  of  blue  and  silver, 
and  crimson  and  gold,  scores  of  donkeys  in  gilded  trappings, 
caiTying  ^Vi*al)  women  closely  veiled  and  riding  astride,  with 
children  running  along  behind  to  keep  the  animals  in  the 
road.  There  also  are  to  l)e  seen  long  trains  of  camels  loaded 
with  stone  and  produce,  and  now  and  then  cbomedaries  gayly 
caparisoned  hearing  riders  in  bright  Oriental  costmnes.  Such 
a medley  of  curious  street  scenes  cannot  l)e  found  in  any 
other  part  of  tlie  world. 

The  palace  is  surrounded  l)y  beautiful  gardens  in  wliich 
are  scores  of  orange  and  lemon  trees  hemhng  under  then* 
burdens  of  fiuit.  We  had  permission  to  pick  some  oranges, 
which  were  delicious.  The  l)lood  or  red  orange  gTows  here 
in  perfection.  We  could  not  see  the  interior  of  the  palace, 
hut  we  did  see  the  kiosk  and  alabaster  bath.  The  kiosk  is 
three  humh'ed  feet  square,  with  an  artificial  lake  in  the  center 
from  the  midst  of  which  rises  a pavihon  large  enough  to  seat 
thuty  persons.  In  it  are  divans,  cushions,  plants,  lamps 
with  magnificent  glass  shades,  and  a fountain  of  perfumed 


THE  LAHD  OF  THE  PHARAOH8. 


143 


water.  Tlie  pavilion  is  reached  l)y  a little  gondola.  The 
lake  is  encircled  hy  a niarl)le  water-course  upon  which  are 
scnlptnred  fish,  reptiles,  aquatic  l)irds  and  animals.  In  each 
corner  of  the  kiosk  are  small  boudoirs  where  the  women  of 
the  harem  sip  their  coffee  from  tiny  ornamented  cnps.  These 
rooms  are  upholstered  with  richly  colored  silks  and  velvets. 
One  of  these  hondoirs  is  most  elegantly  furnished,  it  having 
been  fitted  for  the  viceroy,  Mohammed  Ali.  The  corridors 
aronnd  the  lake  are  snppoided  hy  alabaster  cohnnns,  and  fnr- 
nished  with  fine  mirrors  and  Inxnrions  divans.  They  are 
lighted  l.)y  gas.  The  l)ath  is  a large  room  faced  with  alabaster ; 
the  bathing  l)asin  is  also  of  alal3aster.  When  in  use  the  fonn- 
tain  emits  perfnmed  water.  There  are  several  small  Inxnrions 
coffee-rooms  adjacent  to  the  l)ath-room. 

We  have  l)een  to  Heliopolis.  It  is  an  Arab  toAvn  of  mnd 
houses,  six  miles  from  Cairo.  Here  we  saw  the  “ Virgin’s 
tree  ” under  which  it  is  said  Josei>h  and  Mary  with  the  infant 
Jesns  rested  in  their  flight  into  Eg^ypt.  It  is  a fig- sycamore. 
Its  trnnk  is  above  twenty  feet  in  diameter  and  the  foliage  of 
its  wide-spreading  hranches  shades  a large  area  of  gronnd. 
Tfiere  is  a liigh  fence  aronnd  the  tree  to  protect  it  from  the 
insatial)le  memento-collecting  tourists,  who  wonld  have  car- 
ried it  awTiy  in  pieces  long  ago. 

Near  the  tree  is  an  ol^ehsk  covered  with  hieroglyphics.  It 
is  said  to  he  the  oldest  obelisk  in  Egypt.  It  is  sixty-four  feet 
high.  The  companion  to  it  disappeared  long  ago.  They 
stood  at  the  entrance  of  a temple.  All  al^ont  this  district 
are  fields  of  cactus  hearing  a fimit  highly  appreciated  hy  the 
natives. 

The  pyramids  are  the  wonder  of  the  world  and  the  pride 
of  Egy|)t.  The  group  of  the  largest,  three  in  all,  is  six  miles 
from  Camo.  The  sandy  road  is  l)ordered  wdth  l>eantifid  trees, 
inchuUng  many  of  the  date  palm,  which  afford  a grateful 


144 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIAHS. 


shade.  On  onr  way  to  the  pyramids  we  passed  the  Khedive’s 
new  palace,  which  when  hnished  will  he  one  of  the  largest 
and  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  existence.  The  grounds 
are  inclosed  l)y  fourteen  miles  of  stone  wall,  ten  feet  high, 
and  have  a frontage  on  the  Nile  of  three  and  a half  miles. 
There  is  a group  of  tlmee  palaces  connected  hy  corridors 
already  finished,  and  others  are  hnifihng.  A large  reser- 
vou*  provided  with  a steam  pump  supplies  water  for  the 
huihhngs  and  grounds.  And  we  also  passed  l)y  two  impos- 
ing l)uildings  belonging  to  the  Khedive’s  sons. 

As  we  ax)proached  the  pyi*amids  they  seemed  to  diminish 
in  size,  as  did  Mont  Blanc  when  we  came  near  its  base.  The 
pymmids  are  three  immense  piles  of  masonry.  The  largest 
is  the  pyramid  of  Clieops.  The  great  pyi*aniid,  or  Cheops,  is 
supposed  to  have  been  Ijuilt  about  thi*ee  thousand  five  hun- 
dred years  B.  c.,  and  the  smaller  ones  suhsecpiently.  It  took 
ten  years  to  build  tlie  causeway  on  which  the  stones  were 
brought  fi*oni  the  quarries  along  the  Nile.  It  is  said  that 
till  *ee  hundred  thousand  men  were  twenty  years  building 
Cheops.  Each  of  its  sides  immediately  aliove  the  sand  meas- 
ures seven  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  width,  hut  below  the 
sand  its  liase  must  lie  of  imicli  larger  dimensions.  I do  not 
know  that  excavations  to  the  foundation  of  the  pyramid  have 
ever  been  made. 

CHieops  is  480  feet  liigh.  The  highest  structure  in  Em-ope 
is  the  tower  of  the  Strasbimg  Cathedral,  the  altitude  of  which 
is  461  feet.  St.  Peter’s  at  Rome  is  429  feet  high,  and  St. 
Paiirs  in  London  404  feet. 


The  wonderful  Sphinx  stands  a quarter  of  a mile  ffoiii  the 
great  pyramid.  The  face  of  the  Sphinx  hears  a strildng 
resemhlance  to  Greorge  Washington’s  face  as  pictimed. 

The  |)yi*aniids  of  Egyjit  were  once  one  of  the  seven  won- 


THE  LA]S"D  OF  THE  PHAKAOHS. 


145 


ders  of  tlie  world.  Idie  otlier  six  were  tlie  gardens 

of  Babylon,  the  tonil)  of  Mansolns,  T\ing  of  Caria,  tlie  tem- 
ple of  Diana  at  Epliesns,  tlie  colossus  of  Rliodes  (tlie  site  of 
which  we  shall  pass  when  leaving  Alexandria),  the  statue  of 
Jupiter,  of  gold  and  ivory,  at  Olympia,  and  the  jialace  of 
Cyrus,  cemented  with  gold. 

Five  miles  beyond  tlie  pyi’amids  are  the  ruins  of  the  cele- 
brated city  of  Memphis.  Nothing  remains  of  its  former 
grandeur  and  glory,  except  the  prostrate  statue  of  Raineses 
the  (freat  lying  in  a iiit  which  is  often  tilled  with  water  from 
the  immdation  of  tlie  Nile.  From  the  high  point  where  the 
pjA-amids  are,  we  overlooked  many  miles  of  the  river  and 
its  richly  cultivated  valley,  where  we  saw  immense  fields  of 
wheat  and  corn,  and  countless  little  mnd-bnilt  villages  of  the 
Arabs. 

We  have  seen  the  great  citadel  of  Cairo  and  the  wonderful 
alabaster  mosque.  If  the  latter  is  not  the  largest,  it  is  by 
far  the  richest  niosqne  in  the  world.  The  mosque  of  Saint 
Sophia  in  Constantinople  is  larger,  but  not  so  beantifnl. 
The  two  buildings  stand  upon  a rocky  eminence,  six  himdred 
feet  above  tlie  city,  this  particular  location  having  lieen 
chosen,  it  is  alleged,  liecanse  meat  would  keep  sweet  nincli 
longer  upon  this  high  rocky  gi'omid  than  in  any  other  part 
of  the  city.  The  citadel  was  built  in  1100,  by  Saladin.  The 
niosqne  is  a modern  structure.  It  was  built  by  Mohammed 
Ah,  the  gTandfather  of  the  present  Khedive,  and  who  has  left 
many  magTiiticent  monnments  to  mark  liis  reign  in  Egy|it. 
The  niosqne  is  three  liimdred  feet  siinare.  The  outside  is  not 
yet  completed,  but  will  lie  faced  witli  lilocks  of  alaliaster,  as 
the  interior.  Tlie  alabaster  used  in  the  constrnction  of  these 
bnihhngs  is  a richly  colored  stone,  hard  as  granite  and  of  a 
very  tine  grain,  with  layers  of  amber  and  wavy  cream-colored 


19 


14G 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


lines  rminiiig  througli  it.  The  alaljaster  takes  a high  polish 
and  looks  like  satin.  Tlie  architecture  of  the  mosque  is 
( )riental.  The  roof  is  supported  by  alabaster  columns.  The 
floor  is  covered  vdth  costly  Tiu’kish  carpets.  The  alabaster 
galleries  are  one  hundred  feet  above  the  floor.  The  mosque 
is  lighted  l)y  three  rows  of  stained-glass  windows,  and  in  it 
are  humh'eds  of  hanging  glass  lamps  arranged  in  cncles  and 
triangles.  The  gilded  dome  can  l)e  seen  twenty  miles  away. 
The  court  leading  to  the  mosque  is  paved  with  alabaster,  and 
is  surrounded  l>y  a corridor  of  the  same.  It  is  the  only  ala- 
baster mosque  in  existence. 

In  tlie  palace  adjoining  the  mosque  are  an  elaborate  stan- 
case  and  a l)ath  chaml^er  which  are  marvels  of  beauty.  Close 
by  the  river  hank  and  not  far  from  the  citadel  is  a clump  of 
bulrushes  and  trees  occupmng  the  spot  where  it  is  said 
Moses  was  hidden  from  tlie  persecution  of  Pharoah. 

We  liave  visited  Mrs.  L.’s  American  Mission  School  for 
Aral)  and  Egy^itian  children,  and  have  lieard  a very  remark- 
able liistory  of  one  of  her  little  school-girls.  It  was  from 
tills  school  that  Maharajah  Dhuleep  Singh,  whose  name  is 
well  known  in  England,  took  his  wife.  Rajah  Dhuleep  Singh 
is  one  of  the  tew  Buddhists  known  to  have  forsaken  tlie  faith 
of  his  people,  and  to  have  accepted  the  Christian  religion. 
He  lives  in  gi*and  state  on  a lieautiful  property  not  far  from 
London,  and  is  a favored  visitor  with  his  wife  at  the  Enghsh 
Coml.  At  the  lieginning  of  her  career  as  a donkey-chiver, 
she  and  her  donkey  were  frequently  in  the  service  of  Mrs. 
L.  The  latter  liecame  much  interested  in  the  little  girl’s  wel- 
fare, and  obtained  from  her  wretchedly  poor  mother  the  exclu- 
sive ])rivilege  of  taking  care  of  her  Inight-faced  cliild. 

About  ten  years  ago,  said  Mrs.  L.,  Rajah  Singh  was  pass- 
ing through  Cairo  on  his  way  to  the  home  of  his  ancestors  in 


THE  LAND  OF  THE  PHAEAOHS. 


147 


India,  when  he  heard  of  liei*  mission  school  for  native  chil- 
dren. He  called  npoii  Mrs.  L.  and  disked  i)ernnssion  to  visit 
it.  The  rajah  was  entmely  nnknown  to  Mrs.  Ij.,  hnt  she  asked 
him  to  accompany  her  to  the  school-room,  where  were  sixteen 
yonng  Egyptian  girls,  harefooted,  and  almost  without  cloth- 
ing, seated  in  a circle  npon  tlie  door,  receiving  insti-uction 
from  one  a httle  older  than  themselves,  who  sat  within  the 
circle.  The  rajali  was  at  once  captivated  l>y  the  earnest 
manner,  and  the  large,  speaking  hlack  eyes  of  the  yonng 
teacher,  who  kept  her  position  on  the  door,  wondering  why 
her  class  was  disturbed.  After  leaving  the  room  the  rajah 
made  some  hiqiuries  al  )ont  the  little  teacher,  and  said  to  Mrs. 
L.  that  he  would  like  to  marry  her.  Mrs.  L.  expressed  great 
surprise,  and  replied  that  she  had  reclaimed  her  from  a very 
low  life,  and  had  educated  her  to  a point  where  she  was  use- 
ful as  an  assistant  in  the  school,  and  therefore  begged  the 
nnknown  suitor  to  make  no  further  allusion  to  the  subject. 
The  rajali  thanked  Mrs.  L.  for  tier  kindness,  and  asked  per- 
mission to  return  the  next  day. 

On  the  following  day,  at  the  apjiointed  horn*,  the  rajah 
came  again  and  presented  his  card  and  an  autograph  letter 
from  Queen  Victoria.  The  rajali  asked  permission  to  visit 
tlie  school  again,  and  on  his  dejiartiu’e  renewed  his  recpiest 
to  he  permitted  to  make  the  little  Egyidian  teacher  his  wife, 
giving  as  an  excuse  for  his  sudden  falling  in  love  with  her 
that  the  gul’s  eyes  and  earnest  manner  had  captivated  luni, 
and  it  was  Ids  strong  desire  to  make  her  Ins  wife.  He  said 
he  would  place  her  under  proper  tuition  and  training  imme- 
diately after  them  marriage  to  lit  her  for  a sjihere  of  usefulness 
whicli  she  could  never  otherwise  have  entered.  He  desmed 
Mrs.  L.  to  communicate  his  proposition  to  the  girl,  to  whom 
he  had  not  yet  spoken,  and  said  that  he  would  call  the  next 


148 


ACEOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


day  for  her  decision.  Accordingly,  Mrs.  L.  made  known  the 
wislies  of  the  rajah  to  the  girl,  who  was  only  fourteen  years 
old. 

The  innocent  maiden  did  not  nnderstand  one  word  of  what 
was  meant  l)y  marriage,  and  entreated  her  kind  guardian  not 
to  send  her  away  into  slavery.  She  took  hold  of  Mrs.  L.’s 
di’ess  and  hegan  crying  hitterly.  She  was  pacihed  when  told 
that  she  shonld  not  go  if  she  was  not  perfectly  satisfied  when 
she  understood  what  the  rajah’s  proposition  meant.  The 
rajah  came  the  third  time  and  showed  letters  to  Mrs.  L. 
which  fnlly  satisfied  her  that  he  was  all  that  he  appeared  to 
l)e,  and  that  his  motives  were  pure  and  nohle.  He  desired 
permission  to  converse  Avith  the  gM,  which  he  was  allowed 
to  do  in  the  presence  of  Mrs.  L.  He  addressed  the  gM  in 
Arabic,  which  was  familiar  to  her.  The  interHew  greatly 
terrified  the  yonng  and  timid  creature,  and  she  again  hegged 
her  foster-mother  not  to  send  her  away  into  slavery,  saying 
that  she  coidd  not  live  if  she  were  sold  to  the  man.  She 
hegged  with  tears  that  she  might  stay  and  l)e  permitted  to 
re(phte  with  service  the  kindness  she  had  received  at  the 
hands  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  I^. 

The  rajah  went  away  and  was  not  discoimaged  in  his  suit. 
He  preferred  the  recinest  that  the  girl  shonld  have  a i)lace  in 
tlie  family  and  he  taught  European  manners  and  he  suitably 
dressed  at  his  expense.  Until  tliis  time  she  had  never  sat  at  a 
table  to  eat,  l)iit  liad  taken  her  food  sitting  upon  the  floor  or 
under  a tree  in  tlie  garden.  He  informed  Mrs.  L.  that  on  his 
return  to  England  he  shonld  claim  the  girl  for  liis  vdfe,  if 
there  shonld  he  no  objections  raised  at  that  time.  The  rajah’s 
wishes  were  followed  with  most  satisfactory  consequences. 
The  yonng  gM  hegan  to  comprehend  her  future  destiny,  and 
to  acquire  the  education  planned  for  her,  althongh  she  con- 
tinually regretted  the  day  the  rajah  saw  her  fu-st. 


THE  LAND  OF  THE  PHARAOHS. 


149 


The  rajah,  as  arranged,  informed  Mrs.  L.  of  tlie  time  of  his 
retnrn  from  India,  and  requested  her  to  get  for  his  Inide  snit- 
al^le  clotlnng,  if  the  giil  \¥as  mlling  to  hecoine  liis  wife.  He 
came  at  the  promised  time,  and  the  girl  was  willing  to  go  with 
him.  Her  father,  an  Englishman,  hving  in  Alexandria,  was 
fonnd  and  informed  that  his  presence  was  desired  that  he 
might  give  in  marriage  his  nnknown  daughter.  Her  mother, 
a poor  Egyptian  donkey- thiver,  living  in  a hovel  bnilt  of  nmd, 
was  ignorant  of  the  cu*cnnistances  of  the  marriage.  -The 
wedding  was  celebrated  in  Mrs.  L.’s  house,  upon  which  oc- 
casion the  rajah  gave  Mrs.  L.  £1000  sterling  to  invest  in 
snch  way  as  slie  might  think  advisable  to  advance  the  Chris- 
tian education  of  poor  chikh’en  in  Cairo.  Upon  every  anni- 
versary of  the  marriage,  which  occnrred  ten  years  ago,  the 
snm  of  £1000  has  been  sent  Mrs.  L.  by  the  rajah  for  the 
mission  work  in  Camo.  With  this  large  yearly  donation  she 
lias  built  a church,  a residence  for  herself,  and  a mission 
school. 

Dr.  L.  and  his  Avife  visited  tlie  rajah  in  England,  and  were 
royally  entertained  by  him  and  his  wife.  I liave  seen  photo- 
graphs of  them  and  tliem  tlu*ee  chikUen.  This  event  has  had 
a strange  inlluence  on  some  of  the  guts  attending  Mrs.  L.’s 
school,  who  imagine  they  may  become  wives  of  cajalis  under 
cu'cumstances  as  romantic  as  those  already  narrated. 

The  rajali  was  true  to  his  word.  He  placed  his  wife  in  a 
separate  apartment  in  his  i)alace,  and  provided  her  with  teach- 
ers. At  tlie  end  of  two  years  she  was  presented  at  court,  and 
from  that  time  forward  a new  life  opened  to  tier.  The  pruicess, 
as  she  was  called,  shared  her  husband’s  position  in  society, 
and  became  a lienefactor  of  the  poor  and  wcetched.* 

*July,  1886.  1 have  heard  that  the  rajah  lias  ahaudoued  his  Chiistiaii 
belief,  and  returned  to  India  with  his  wife  and  children,  and  again  professes 
the  faith  of  his  ancestors. 


150 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKIDIA^^S. 


The  bazars  of  Cairo  are  among  the  novel  siglits  of  the  city. 
There  are  miles  of  these  little  Imotlis,  each  about  ten  feet 
square.  The  xuoprietors  are  seen  sitting  a la  furque  on  tables 
with  variously  colored  fabrics  and  beautiful  emlnnideries, 
boxes  of  aml)er  ornaments,  and  great  quantities  of  gold  and 
silver  liligTee-work  disj^osed  around  them.  Gold  and  silver 
jewelry  is  sold  here  l>y  weight,  the  workmanship  having  only 
a nominal  value. 

We  have  seen  the  howling  dervishes,  the  most  nnx^repos- 
sessing  j^ersons  1 have  ever  l)eheld.  By  a gift  of  hacksheesh 
we  obtained  admission  to  one  of  tliem  religious  ]3erforniances. 
Thirty  men  took  jjail  in  it.  They  l)egan  V>y  advancing  in  a 
semicircle  in  front  of  the  Hheik,  or  cliief,  and  having  made 
salaams,  they  moved  l)ackward  and  formed  in  a circle  around 
the  chief,  kneeling  on  l^lankets.  After  having  bowed  their 
heads  rei)eatedly  to  the  door,  they  began  their  devotions, 
horrid  tones  from  a numher  of  discordant  musical  instru- 
ments acconq^anying  then*  movements.  Rising,  they  again 
lowly  bowed  their  heads  and  then  began  with  more  rap)id 
movements,  all  moving  together  in  unison  and  in  time  with 
the  music.  As  the  music  increased  in  ra])idity  of  time  and 
l^ecame  louder,  the  devotees  increased  the  violence  of  their 
movements,  until  their  disheveled  hair  made  them  still  more 
hideous  and  their  vociferations  were  intensided  to  an  almost 
deafening  degree.  After  a time  they  began  whirling,  their 
bodies  sx)inning  around  hke  tox>s;  the  faster  the  music  the 
quicker  their  motions  and  more  |)iercing  their  shrieks.  Sud- 
denly the  circle  of  wliMing  fanatics  broke,  and  advancing 
again  in  a seniicu’cle  before  the  Sheik,  they  made  salaams 
and  init  on  the  dirty  robes  they  had  cast  off  and  fell  down 
on  the  door  exhausted. 

(_)n  some  of  our  excimsions,  we  have  had  the  jileasure  of 


THE  LAND  OF  THE  PHAKAOHS. 


151 


Jud^e  and  Mrs.  B.’s  company.  Judge  B.  is  one  of  the  judges 
of  the  International  Supreme  Court  of  Egyj)t,  ha\dng  been 
appointed  hy  the  President  of  the  United  States.  We  go  to 
Alexandria  to-moiTow. 


mxANDHiA,  January  ‘26, 1876.  We  arrived  here  last  even- 


ing and  shall  remain  only  a day  or  two.  In  fact  we  have 
“done”  the  place  already.  The  principal  ol)jects  of  interest 
here  to  the  tourist  are  Cleopatra’s  Needles  and  Ponp^ey’s 
Pillar.  The  Needles  were  bronglit  Uoni  Heliopolis.  Tliey 
were  among  the  colnmns  of  the  tenii)le.  One  is  still  stand- 
ing. It  is  seventy-one  feet  higli.  The  other  is  sixty-six 
feet  high,  and  hes  partly  ind^edded  in  the  sand,  having  fallen 
there  ages  ago.* 

Tlie  ol)elisks  are  covered  vdth  hieroglyphics.  One  account 
of  the  origin  of  the  Needles  mentions  that  they  were  erected 
l)y  tdeopatra  to  commemorate  the  l)u*th  of  her  son  Ca^sarion. 
Pompey’s  Pillar  is  a column  ninety-eight  feet  high,  and  is 
said  to  have  been  erected  in  the  year  300  b.  c.,  in  honor 
of  the  Emperor  Diocletian.  Alexandria  is  a busy  commer- 
cial city,  not  unlike  one  of  Europe. 

* June,  1886.  The  shorter  obelisk  was  brong-ht  to  New  \"oi*k  aljout  six 
years  ago  and  erected  in  Central  Park. 


XVIII 


Athens. 


'HENS,  February  1,  1876.  We  bad  a pleasant  voyage  of 


three  days  from  Alexandria  to  the  Pmseus  — the  sea- 
port of  Athens.  We  saw  the  Island  of  Rhodes  and  the  har- 
bor where  once  stood  the  celelwated  colossus.  The  captain 
of  oim  little  Egy]hian  steamer,  the  Clarhie^  has  been  engaged 
to  convey  to  Alexandria  the  family  of  the  Khedive’s  brother 
who  has  just  died  at  Constantinople,  leaving  a family  of  five 
hundred  persons.  The  captain  says  two  steamers  will  be 
required  for  their  transportation. 

We  are  again  in  the  classic  city  of  Athens,  and  among 
familiar  faces  and  well-known  localities.  We  intend  to  re- 
main here  long  enough  to  refresh  ourselves  after  om*  eight 
months  of  fatiguing  l)ut  very  interesting  joimieyings.  Many 
of  our  colleagues  are  still  here  with  whom  we  were  formerly 
associated.  We  were  corthally  greeted,  too,  by  oim  old 
friends  of  the  missionary  colony.  Everyl3ody  affectionately 
inqumed  after  yon  and  your  little  family. 


'HENS,  Fel>rnary  28, 1876.  Their  majesties,  the  khig  and 


queen  of  Glreece,  received  ns  a few  days  ago  in  a charm- 
ingly informal  manner.  They  engaged  ns  for  an  hoim  in  a 
familiar  conversation  about  America  and  our  travels.  On 


152 


ATHENS. 


153 


tlie  following  day  we  dined  at  the  palace  in  company  with 
the  royal  honsehold.  The  king  drank  to  your  father’s  healtli, 
and  safe  return  to  his  native  land.  During  the  dinner  the 
four  childi’en  were  allowed  to  come  to  tlie  tal)le  for  a few 
minutes  that  we  might  see  how  much  they  had  grovm  in  the 
three  years  of  our  al)sence.  The  crown  prince,  C-onstantine, 
stood  hetween  the  king  and  queen  ; the  other  children  by  the 
ladies  of  honor.  At  a signal  they  severally  came  to  ns  and 
ottered  their  hands,  saying,  “ (lood-night,”  in  English.  As 
remarked  t)y  Mine.  T.,  the  grand  maUre.sse,  it  was  a pretty 
scene,  and  a mark  of  friendship.  The  (pieen  was  as  gi-acious 
and  charming  as  ever.  Her  toilet  was  simple  and  elegant ; 
it  was  made  of  pink  and  white  satin,  with  coiffure  of  pink 
and  white  camellias.  A single  cluster  of  diamonds  was  the 
only  decoration  she  wore. 

The  carnival  is  at  its  height.  Masqueraders  are  seen 
nightly  on  tlie  streets.  Tliere  are  burlesque  processions, 
nonsensical  spectacles  in  carriages,  and  even  mothers  parade 
their  little  chihh’en  fantastically  dressed. 

Perhaps  yon  rememlier  Mile.  M.,  one  of  the  assistant 
teachers  of  the  Aisakiou,  the  normal  school  at  Athens.  She 
has  married  a Ureek  with  ten  children! 

This  is  the  season  of  llowers,  and  I am  fully  enjoying  the 
lieaiity  and  fragrance  of  the  heliotropes.  We  have  dined 
with  several  old  friends,  and  partaken  of  three  oiien-ah* 
breakfasts.  W e have  lieen  to  a harliecue  or  picnic  at  Phale- 
iTiiii.  A special  train  was  placed  at  the  ser\dce  of  the  thirty- 
three  guests  from  Atliens.  It  was  given  by  Mr.  P.,  the  pix^s- 
ident  of  the  Athens  and  Pirjens  railroad  company.  The 
mayors  and  other  high  dignitaries  of  Athens  and  Ph-ams 
were  there  with  their  vdves.  The  talile  was  laid  just  on 
the  seashor(‘  close  to  tlie  liathing  ground  under  a pa\dlion 


154 


ACKOSS  THE  IVIEEIDIANS. 


covered  with  evergreens,  traihng  vines,  and  flowers.  Four 
lainljs  were  roasted  wliole  in  tlie  rear  of  the  pavilion,  and 
the  coffee  was  made  in  large  boilers  close  at  hand.  The 
table  was  loaded  with  choice  viands  and  wines.  Music  and 
speeches  in  Ureek  and  Enghsh  enlivened  the  occasion.  It 
was  a very  enjoyable  affair. 

Mr.  X.  gave  ns  a country  harl)ecne  a day  or  two  ago.  We 
were  a party  of  a dozen  old  friends,  all  Ureeks  l)nt  oimselves. 
After  an  hour’s  drive  we  amved  at  the  place,  a beautiful 
gTOve  of  \vild  orange-trees.  The  tal)le  was  laid  a la  hrif/ande, 
as  a country  picnic  tal>le  in  Greece  is  called.  It  was  a large 
deal  talfle  placed  under  a fine  old  fig-tree,  close  by  a group  of 
orange-trees,  and  overspread  with  tender  tvdgs  of  evergi*eens. 
All  the  provisions  were  placed  on  the  tal)le,  and  a large  piece 
of  l)read  laid  at  each  plate.  The  land)  was  roasted  on  a spit 
in  front  of  the  tal>le.  The  delicious  aroma  of  the  boiling  cof- 
fee in^dtingly  mingled  with  the  savory  smell  of  the  roasting 
land).  The  land)  was  brought  upon  the  tal)le  and  broken  into 
pieces  l)y  the  host.  This  mode  of  carving  is  very  skillfully 
accomplished  by  one  who  knows  how  to  do  it.  1 suppose  the 
hmd)  was  (hsjointed  I)efore  it  was  cooked.  No  knives  or  forks 
arc  used  at  a l)arhecne;  fingers  snl)stitiite  them.  I confess 
that  I never  tasted  sweeter  or  more  savory  meat  than  was 
that  lamb.  We  had,  in  addition,  various  .<////co.s,  or  sweet- 
meats, including  the  rose-leaf  glyco,  and  good  bread,  fine 
oranges,  and  excellent  native  wines.  We  returned  to  the  city 
before  nightfall,  having  fully  enjoyed  all  the  features  of  the 
varied  pleasures  of  the  day. 

A barbecue  is  deemed  a special  compliment  when  it  is  given 
to  a visitor.  The  nianner  of  roasting  a lamb  at  a harhecne  is 
primitive.  Two  large  stones  are  placed  al)ont  four  feet  apart ; 
the  land),  pierced  lengthwise  by  a long  pointed  stick,  is  placed 


ATHENS. 


155 


over  a bed  of  live  coals  between  tlie  two  stones.  With  fre- 
quent tiuTiing  and  l)asting  with  oil  and  salt,  the  land)  is  cooked 
“to  a turn.” 

The  Patissia  Road  is  as  l)rilliant  as  we  knew  it  tliree  years 
ago.  The  royal  family  chive  along  it  every  day,  often  alight- 
ing from  the  carriage,  the  king  and  (jneeii  walking  hand  in 
hand  with  the  two  eldest  children.  This  avenue  is  frequented 
by  the  nolcihty  and  fashional)le  i)eople  of  the  city.  Yon  re- 
ineniher  the  ( Ireek  ladies  wear  very  gay  colors  tor  the  prome- 
nade. Sometimes  the  road  is  radiant  with  all  the  colors  of 
the  rahd)OW.  The  kuig  and  <pieen,  moving  along  in  the  crowd, 
have  a Mendly  greeting  for  every  one.  The  fields  of  Phalernm, 
as  yon  have  often  seen  them,  are  now  carpeted  with  l)eaTitifnl 
scarlet  anemones  and  l)rilhant  red  and  white  poppies.  When 
there,  I never  fail  to  carry  home  large  Inniches  of  these  wild 
fiowers.  The  legation  servant,  Theocharis,  whom  yon  donht- 
less  rememlcer,  has  become  a coachman.  He  informed  ns  that 
he  had  saved  enongh  money  wlnle  in  onr  service  to  start  him- 
self in  Inisiness  vfith  a coach  and  a pan*  of  horses.  He  conies 
to  onr  rooms  every  morning  to  offer  his  services. 

At  a dinner  at  the  English  minister’s  your  health  and 
happiness  and  that  of  your  Imshand  and  children  were  drank 
right  heartily;  yonr  brother  was  also  kindly  spoken  of,  and 
l)oth  were  renieniliered  at  the  dinner  given  by  Dr.  Hchliemann. 
The  eminent  archa'ologist  is  as  earnestly  engaged  as  ever  in 
his  excavations.  He  and  Mrs.  S.,  who  is  as  enthnsiastic  as 
himself  in  the  study  of  arclneology,  have  made  some  very 
valuable  discoveries  at  old  Corinth  and  at  Olympia.  Ten 
thousand  francs  were  recently  offered  Dr.  Schlieniann  for  a 
terra-cotta  vase  found  by  him  many  metres  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground  at  old  Corinth.  He  sells  none  of  his  treasiuns. 

The  carnival  ends  to-day  with  the  usual  fete  at  the  columns 


156 


ACE0S8  THE  MERIDIANS. 


of  Jupiter,  wliieli  everyl)ody  attends;  many  bring- baskets  of 
provisions  and  remain  all  day.  The  peasantry  in  provincial 
holiday  costumes,  the  middle  and  poorer  classes  of  Athens 
less  distinctively  dressed,  the  men  mostly  wearing  white  fus- 
tenellas,  and  the  ])eople  of  rank  fashionably  attmed,  highly 
animate  the  jiicturesque  scene.  The  most  popular  amuse- 
nieut  at  these  out-of-door  fetes  is  dancing.  The  dancers  are 
meu,  twelve  or  more  of  them  gracefully  moving  in  cmcles, 
sometimes  Ijreakiiig  the  circles  and  forming  themselves  into 
unique  figures,  then  resuming  again  the  first  position  to  the 
music  of  a flute  or  a she])herd’s  horn,  and  sometimes  to  the 
rhythm  of  a song  sung  in  a minor  key;  the  cliief  dancer  dis- 
courses the  music.  As  the  dancers  become  fatigued  they  fall 
out  of  the  circle  for  a time,  then  take  again  their  positions. 

1 have  attended  several  of  these  fetes,  and  never  saw  any- 
thing 1 )ordering  on  rudeness,  notwithstanding  the  people  drink 
freely  of  their  wines.  They  claim  that  they  dance  the  same 
dances  which  their  forefathers  danced  a thousand  years  ago. 
The  queen  and  the  ladies  of  the  royal  household  don  the 
native  costume  on  the  national  fete-days,  and  sometimes  at- 
tend the  fetes  as  observers.  The  costume  is  very  chaste  and 
pretty.  It  is  coinposed  of  a white  silk  skirt  and  a blue  velvet 
jacket  embroidered  with  gold  thread.  The  bracelets,  neck- 
laces, and  tiara  are  made  of  the  gold  coins  of  Greece.  Many 
of  the  peasant  women  wear  beautiful  gold  ornaments  — the 
accumulations  of  generations. 

The  collection  of  a maiden’s  dower  is  l)egun  while  she  is  a 
child,  as  was  customary  with  the  early  Greek  people.  As  soou 
as  the  little  girl  is  beyond  the  dangers  of  infancy  the  prudent 
mother  buys  a wooden  l)ox,  and  begins  to  lay  away  some- 
thing for  her  daughter’s  dower.  Every  year  tlie  sacred  con- 
tents of  the  box  are  increased  by  a contrilmtiou,  if  it  l>e  but 


ATHENS. 


157 


a small  piece  of  lioiiie-made  linen.  Yon  need  not,  liowever, 
l)e  told  inncli  of  Athens  and  the  Greeks,  for  yon  arc  already 
well  informed  concerning  them.  Three  years  have  made  httle 
or  no  change  in  the  a|)pearance  of  the  city  and  of  the  customs 
of  the  people. 

We  have  visited  Tatoi,  tlie  king’s  conntry  place,  and  l)y 
permission  explored  the  little  palace  there  from  top  to  l)ottoni. 
Tlie  family  ihning-room  is  an  improvised  pavilion  in  a shady 
little  nook,  nnder  a gronj)  of  orange-trees  now  loaded  with 
fruit  and  l)lossoms,  which  is  inclosed  with  a hedge  of  ever- 
greens, vines,  and  cacti.  Here  tlu^  king  aiid  qneen  breakfast 
and  dine  en  tete-a-tete  mtli  their  children. 

There  is  no  necessity  to  provide  against  rain  in  Greece 
during  the  sninmer,  for  it  seldom  or  never  falls  l)etween  the 
months  of  May  and  ( )ctoher.  At  Tatoi  there  are  lovely  and 
shaded  walks  in  every  chrection  l)ordered  with  l)eds  of  pink 
and  scarlet  daisies.  The  queen’s  houdoir  is  furnished  in  piidv 
and  wlhte  cretonne,  with  a corner  hidden  from  view  by  a 
screen  of  photographs  which  conceals  her  writing-desk  and 
a table  of  books.  Here  her  majesty  reads  and  wi*ites.  Tlie 
ladies  of  honor  have  rooms  in  small  vine-covered  cottages 
near  the  royal  villa.  Tatoi  is  a charming  nu*al  retreat  during 
the  hot  months  of  snnimer. 

One  of  the  many  interesting  places  in  Athens  is  the 
Areopagus,  or  Mars’  Hill,  the  latter  appellation  having 
been  given,  according  to  the  traditional  account,  liecanse 
Mars  was  the  first  person  tried  here.  He  was  accused  of 
murder.  Tlie  tribunal  consisted  of  two  rough,  fiat  stones 
})laced  on  the  apex  of  the  hill,  one  tor  the  defendant  and  one 
for  the  accuser.  The  temple  of  Mars  stood  close  liy  the  tri- 
liunal.  The  ascent  was  made  by  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  whicli 
led  from  the  base  to  the  top  of  the  hill.  Tliere  were  origi- 


158 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKEDIANS. 


iially  sixteen  of  them,  l)ut  only  a half  dozen  remain;  the 
others  have  crnmhled  and  worn  away.  Parts  of  the  tribunal 
may  still  he  seen.  It  is  supposed  that  Mars’  Hill  formed  a 
part  of  the  Acropolis  and  that  at  a very  remote  period  it 
was  rent  in  twain  l)y  an  earthquake. 

In  Acts  xvii.  mention  is  made  of  St.  Paul  preaching  to 
the  cimons  and  superstitions  Athenians.  The  populace  of 
Athens,  who  went  daily  to  the  Agora,  or  market-jdace,  which 
was  jnst  at  the  foot  of  Mars’  Hill,  to  learn  the  news  of  the 
day,  heard  that  a strange  man  had  come  among  them  who 
pretended  to  have  a new  doctrine  of  rehgion,  and  that  he  had 
asked  permission  of  the  city  authorities  to  speak  to  the  peo- 
ple. The  apostle  said  that  he  had  observed  altars  erected  to 
Fame,  Modesty,  Energy,  Persnasion,  and  Pity  (the  Athe- 
nians alone  of  all  the  Hreeks  gave  divine  honors  to  Pity), 
and  that  also  he  had  seen  an  altar  dedicated  to  the  unknown 
God  at  Plialernm,  near  the  sea,  and  this  altar  he  proposed  to 
dedicate  anew  to  the  God  he  came  to  preach. 

Ancient  Athens  was  the  home  of  the  world’s  chdlization. 
Laws  of  order,  sobriety,  and  indnstry  were  first  promulgated 
in  the  city  of  Athens,  the  teaclnngs  and  practice  of  which, 
no  donld,  were  the  starting  point  for  European  civilization. 
The  Greeks  are  a noble  race,  and  they  have  whereof  to  he 
proud.  A long  chapter  would  he  necessary  to  describe  this 
renowned  city  with  its  ruins.  But  why  repeat  what  yon 
already  know  as  well  as  myself. 

To-morrow  we  depart  tor  Venice,  a sea  voyage  of  a thou- 
sand miles.  One  of  the  inevitable  and  yet  one  of  the  most 
disagreeal  )le  incidents  of  travel  is  that  of  parting  with  friends 
one  has  made  and  enjoyed  in  the  places  visited.  Being  home- 
ward hound,  we  do  not  wish  to  huger  too  long  even  among 
good  friends. 


MARS'  HILL,  AT  ATHENS. 


/ 


XIX 


From  Afhenn  to  Venice^  Milan  and  Lake  Cmno. 

N hoard  the  Lillehaijo,  Marcli  31,  187().  We  expect  to 


dnisli  tins  quiet  and  pleasant  voyage  to-inoiTow.  Our 
steamer  is  small,  slow,  and  not  very  comfortahle.  She  is 
making  her  last  voyage  before  going  into  dry  dock  for  re- 
pairs. We  are  taking  six  days  to  accomplisli  a live  days’ 
voyage.  We  and  four  other  persons  are  the  only  passengers 
al)oard  the  vessel.  After  rounding  Cajje  Matapan,  the  sec- 
ond day  out,  we  were  informed  that  on  the  day  before  a 
heavy  gale  had  driven  ashore  a steamer,  and  that  two  pas- 
sengers had  been  drowned.  The  water  at  the  cape  was  not 
very  smooth  for  ns,  hut  we  safely  doul)led  it.  We  called  at 
Corfu  and  spent  several  hours  on  land.  We  got  a good 
dinner  and  wsited  some  old  friends.  We  also  stopped  at 
Brindisi,  where  we  passed  a half-day  in  seeing  the  place,  and 
made  a short  excursion  on  the  Appian  Way,  the  famous 
highway  of  early  times,  extending  from  Rome  to  this  seaport. 


VENICE,  April  7,  1876.  We  arrived  at  Venice  on  the  first 
day  of  the  month.  Sight-seeing  in  this  beautiful, 
insular  city  is  always  interesting.  Although  described  again 
and  again,  the  place  still  chscloses  some  new  and  peculiar 


159 


160 


ACKOSS  THE  MEKIDIANS. 


features  of  location,  and  preserves  many  unique  curiosities 
to  interest  strangers.  The  cliurclies  are  rich  in  sculj^ture  and 
paintings  l)y  tlie  old  masters.  The  shops  containing  antiques 
are  very  enticing  and  well  supphed.  Not  a few  old  Venetian 
families  are  vdlling  to  part  with  heirlooms  for  a satisfactory 
compensation.  Tlie  glass-mosaic  shops  are  always  attractive. 

Tlie  doge’s  palace,  with  its  Bridge  of  Sighs  and  Tintoretto’s 
great  painting  in  the  library  hall,  and  Titian’s  Assumption 
are  objects  of  great  interest.  The  king’s  palace  on  St.  Mark’s 
Plaza-,  with  its  four  liundred  and  forty-six  rooms,  may  he 
visited  when  his  majesty  is  absent  from  the  city.  Venice, 
l)uilt  Tipon  one  hundi'ed  and  seventeen  islands  and  traversed 
by  one  hundred  and  forty-seATii  canals,  on  which  are  thou- 
sands of  gondolas  manned  t)y  gayly  dressed  and  musical  gon- 
doliers, never  tails  to  interest  foreigners.  We  shall  remain 
liere  only  a few  days,  tor  we  explored  Venice  very  thoroughly 
two  years  ago. 

— 4*  — 

M ilan,  April  11, 1876.  From  Venice  to  Milan  is  a joimiey 
of  eight  hours  by  rail,  I might  say  through  an  almost 
continuous  mull  )erry  grove.  Tlie  valley  of  Lomliardy,  through 
wliich  we  came,  is  a silk-groAving  region ; the  principal  tree  is 
tlie  mullierry,  which  serves  to  feed  the  silk-worm,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  support  the  grape-vines  which  festoon  them- 
selves from  tree  to  tree.  We  had  a chstant  view  of  the  snow- 
capped Pyi*enees,  and  the  air  was  so  cold  that  we  were  glad 
to  accept  the  houiJlottev,  or  cans  of  hot  water  handed  into  the 
cars  at  the  stations.  Beautiful  villas  are  conspicuously  situated 
on  the  mouutain-sides,  and  many  hamlets  picturesquely  dis- 
trilmted  along  the  valley. 

Tlie  costumes  of  the  peasantry  are  very  pretty.  The 


FEOM  ATHENS  TO  LAIEE  COMO. 


IGl 


women  wear  bright  skmts  and  Idack  l)odices  over  white 
cliemisettes  witli  short  full  flovdng  sleeves.  Jannty  straw 
hats  with  long  hriglit-hlne  ril)l)ons  or  white  coquettish  tiir- 
l)ans  adorn  theii*  lieads.  The  men  wear  gay-colored  saslies 
around  their  waists,  short  l)lack  trousers,  and  open  jack(ds, 
and  l)road-l)rimnied  wliite  straw  hats  vutli  long  blue  streamers. 
Bine  is  the  color  of  Loml)ardy. 

Tlie  jVIilanese  greatly  enjoy  yachting  on  an  artihcial  lake 
not  far  from  the  center  of  the  city.  In  midwinter  it  serves 
for  a short  time  as  a skating  rink,  and  sometimes  the  water 
is  dravm  off  and  then  it  hecomes  a horse-racing  ground. 
There  is  a beautiful  park  in  Milan,  emlmicing  one  hundred 
and  fifty  acres  of  ground  laid  out  in  lawns  and  enchanting 
miniatnre  forests,  plateaus  of  flowers,  running  streams  of 
water,  artistic  fountains,  and  many  fine  pieces  of  statiiary. 

The  Cyampo  Santo  is  one  of  tlie  finest  cemeteries  in  Em-ope. 
It  contains  a greater  wealth  of  statuary  than  any  other  open 
l)lace  of  sepulture  in  the  world. 

]\Iilan  has  also  a renowned  picture  gallery.  The  Mairiage 
of  Mary  and  Joseph,  l)y  Baphael,  is  considered  the  most  cele- 
brated of  its  collection  of  paintings.  The  fresco  of  the 
Lord’s  Supper,  by  Leonardo  da  Yinci,  is  still  on  the  wall  of 
an  old  and  neglected  convent  in  the  city,  but  it  is  very  much 
defaced  l>y  time,  and  parts  of  it  are  ahnost  obliterated. 
Ai’tists  are  constantly  making  copies  of  this  masterpiece  of 
frescoing. 

AV  e went  to  the  cathedral  on  Palm  Sunday,  and  receiv('d  a 
sprig  of  evergreen  as  we  passed  out  of  the  churcli.  Tlie 
cathedral  is  a wonderfully  beautiful  structure.  Its  roof  is 
snjiport(Tl  by  fifty-two  columns  thirty-six  feet  iii  circumfer- 
ence. It  has  eight  thousand  life-size  statues  inside  and  out- 
side, and  aliove  the  roof  rise  ninety-eiglit  iTothic  turrets. 


162 


ACKOSS  THE  MEELDIANS. 


The  pMintiiigs  are  covered  during  Holy  Week ; nor  are  the 
tiT*asnres,  which  are  very  ricli,  to  he  seen  at  this  time.  The 
cathedral  is  next  in  size  to  St.  Peter’s  at  Rome.  The  exqui- 
site architectiu’e  is  not  surpassed  by  that  of  any  other  cathe- 
dral in  the  world.  The  building  stands  in  the  heart  of  the 
city. 

Tlie  old  Lazaretto,  once  used  tor  a plague  hospital,  is  now 
fitted  as  an  apartment-house  for  tlie  poor.  There  are  one 
thousand  two-room  apartments  in  it,  each  of  which  rents  for 
thirty  francs  a year. 

We  have  visited  Lake  Como.  It  is  richly  entitled  to  all 
the  admiration  ))estowed  upon  it.  We  went  as  far  as  Bel- 
lagio.  Tlie  slopes  of  tlie  mountain  are  dotted  vutli  vine- 
yards, farmers’  hamlets,  and  beautiful  villas.  I could  not 
restrain  a sigli  for  “ poor  Carlotta,”  when  jiassing  her  pretty 
rural  palace  opposite  Bellagio.  Upon  the  mountain-sides  are 
many  little  cabins  occupied  liy  the  families  of  the  itinerant 
hand-organ  players,  wlio  go  out  into  tlie  world  and  wander 
far  and  wide,  even  as  far  as  our  own  country,  with  them 
organs  on  their  liacks,  returning  to  their  homes  aliout  Christ- 
mas-time  vdth  perhaps  only  a few  hundred  francs,  after 
many  months  of  toil  and  hardship.  In  the  mean  time  the 
families  work  in  the  wneyards. 

The  lioat  life  on  Lake  Como  is  extremely  picturesque,  with 
its  scores  of  pleasure  gondolas  gliding  quietly  over  the  water 
freighted  with  the  pretty  Italian  ladies  dressed  in  liright-col- 
ored  costumes,  wearing  ujion  their  heads  the  lilack  lace  man- 
tillas held  in  place  with  coral  pins,  and  the  happy-looking 
gondoliers  with  the  lilack  tarpaulin  hats  and  long  floating 
lilue  rililions,  and  voices  keeping  time  to  the  movement  of 
the  oars, — this,  with  the  heautiful  scenery  on  the  shores  of 
Como,  affords  a charming  picture  to  look  at. 


FROM  ATHENS  TO  LAIEE  COMO. 


1()3 


Aiiotlier  phase  of  life  is  seen  on  Lake  Como,  and  a very 
attractive  picture  too  in  its  way:  Along  tlie  shores  are  the 

washerwoinen  at  theii’  tasks.  They  stand  in  the  water  with 
sku’ts  rolled  np  to  the  knees,  wearing  the  indisx)ensal)le  black 
bodice  laced  over  white  chemisettes,  and  with  white  tnrl)ans 
trimmed  with  wide  hows  of  gay  rihl)on  they  add  not  a little  to  ? 
the  gayety  of  the  scenes  on  the  lake.  1 am  told  that  not 
nnfrequently  the  artist  hnds  a worthy  snl)ject  for  Ids  l)rnsh 
among  the  washerwomen  on  Lake  Como. 

We  shall  go  from  here  to  Turin,  where  we  intend  to  remain 
only  a day  or  two,  and  thence  to  Paris. 


XX 


Paris  and  London. 


AEis,  May  8,  1876.  One  day  more  of  rail  travel  Inings  us 


to  the  seal)oard  — our  startiiig-poiut  on  the  lioiueward 
stretch.  Coming  from  Turin  the  weather  was  cold  and 
dreary,  and  we  were  glad  to  accept  again  the  houidoffes  of  hot 
water.  It  was  the  keenest  atmosphere  we  have  experienced 
since  leaving  home,  and  we  found  cold  and  rainy  weather  in 
Paris,  when  we  arrived  on  the  Idth  of  April. 

The  promenades  and  l)onlevards  in  Paris  are  not  attractive 
in  inclement  weather.  An  unclouded  sky  is  necessary  to 
induce  an  afternoon  drive  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  an  even- 
ing saunter  on  the  l)onlevards,  or  a visit  to  the  brilliant 
jewelry  and  picture  shops.  We  shall  remain  here  hut  a day 
or  two  more  ; we  are  ah*eady  acquainted  with  many  of  the 
chief  attractions  of  this  heantifnl  city,  and,  although  the 
treasures  of  its  art  galleries,  its  charming  parks,  the  varied 
features  of  its  architecture,  and  a multitude  of  novel  and 
interesting  entertainments  invite  frequent  visits,  we  must 
defer  this  pleasure  until  another  time. 


PAEIS  AND  LONDON. 


165 


)NDON,  May  22,  1876.  We  came  liere  on  the  10th  instant, 


])y  tlie  Boulogne  and  Folkestone  route.  We  were  three 
hours  tossing  across  a distance  of  tliuly  miles.  Long  Ijefore 
we  had  finished  onr  rough  voyage,  nearly  all  the  sea-sick  pas- 
sengers were  lying  full  length  on  tlie  deck.  Some  new  and 
heantifnl  seal-skin  jackets  and  lovely  traveling-dresses  for 
home  wear  in  New  York  were  neglectfully  soiled.  I was  hut 
little  indisposed,  and  l)y  sitting  down  on  the  deck  and  hold- 
ing fast  to  the  rail  of  an  iron-hound  settee,  escaped  the  plight 
of  the  other  ladies,  although  I was  several  times  di-enched  by 
the  spray  of  the  large  waves  washing  over  the  sides  of  oim 


We  are  again  at  the  already  well-known  place,  the  Inns  of 
Coiu’t  Hotel,  in  High  Holhorn  street.  We  recognized  some 
famihar  faces  al)ont  the  house,  and  found  the  same  two 
sisters  on  duty  in  the  office  who  were  there  live  years  ago 
when  yon  were  mth  ns  here. 

We  went  down  to  the  Greek  legation,  opposite  the  entrance 
to  Marlhorongh  House,  the  Prince  of  Wales’  town  house, 
to  see  the  procession  escorting  the  prince  thither  on  his 
return  from  India  after  an  absence  of  seven  months  from 
England.  The  prince,  princess,  and  then- two  eldest  children 
were  seated  in  a superb  family  carriage  drawn  l)y  four  black 
horses  heading  the  procession.  In  the  next  carnage  were 
the  other  childi'en  of  the  royal  family.  The  military  drew 
up  in  line  at  the  entrance  to  Marllmrongh  House,  and  the 
prince  and  his  family  entered  unattended. 

On  the  following  Sunday  I attended  service  at  Westmin- 
ster Abbey.  The  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  and  other 
members  of  the  royal  family  were  present.  The  service  was 
one  of  thanksgiving  for  the  safe  return  of  the  prince.  Dean 
Stanley  officiated. 


vessel. 


166 


ACKOSS  THE  MEEIDIANS. 


We  have  heard  Spui-geon  preach  again.  Persons  not 
members  of  his  chimcli  are  admitted  l)y  tickets.  A sixpence 
was  solicited  at  the  door  as  a subscription  to  the  college 
fund.  The  church  was  crowded  to  its  utmost  capacity.  The 
distinguished  divine  preaches  tvdce  every  Sunday  to  large 
audiences. 

To  see  London  extensively  requires  months  of  time,  and 
as  we  have  only  a few  days  more  for  sight-seeing  before  the 
sailing  of  the  steamer  in  which  we  retiuTi  home,  we  shall  not 
attempt  any  long  exclusions. 

We  have  visited  several  places  which  the  pen  of  Charles 
Dickens  has  made  familiar  to  his  readers,  and  have  been 
several  times  to  Drmy  Lane  and  Covent  Uarden  theaters 
where  some  of  the  great  actors  of  Em*ope  are  playing. 

You  will  remenil)er  that  when  we  were  on  our  way  to  San 
Francisco  from  Boston,  that  at  Syracuse  Dr.  and  Mrs.  W. 
joined  us,  and  continued  with  us  across  the  Pacific,  and  jour- 
neyed with  us  as  far  as  Point  de  Clalle,  where  we  pailed  from 
them,  they  going  dh’ect  to  Bombay  and  we  to  Calcutta.  We 
met  them  again  at  Cairo  and  afterward  overtook  them  in 
London.  We  shall  see  them  again  at  Liverpool,  fi’oni  which 
port  they  sail  one  day  later  than  we  for  New  York,  where  it 
is  prol)al)le  we  shall  meet  tlieni  for  the  foiudli  time  on  the 
cu’cuit  of  our  travels  around  the  world.  We  go  to  Liverpool 
to-morrow  to  take  passage  in  the  Spain^  of  the  National  Line, 
which  sails  on  the  twenty-fourth  day  of  this  month  for  New 
York,  holding  to  meet  you  all  on  the  foiudh  day  of  dime. 


XXI 


Leure  En<jl(ut(l.  Bestime  of  One  YeuEa  Travel. 


IiYEiirooL,  May  23,  1876.  But  ten  or  eleven  clays  separate 
J ns  froiii  New  York:  we  are  off  for  lioiiie  to-morrow! 
We  dined  this  evening  with  (leneral  and  Mrs.  F.,  who  occupy 
a cliarniing  villa  in  one  of  the  Iceantifnl  parks  adjacent  to  the 
city.  M"e  were  highly  gratified  to  find  the  United  States 
Consul  so  agreeably  located  and  to  l)e  so  cordially  received  by 
om*  representative. 

Inverpool  is  one  of  the  gi*eat  seaports  of  the  world,  and 
famous  for  its  extensive  commerce  and  very  large  shipping 
interests. 

On  l)oard  the  Spain,  June  4,  1876.  We  have  passed  Fire- 
Island  lighthonse,  and  are  almost  within  sight  of  the  spires 
and  steeples  of  New  York.  After  the  several  sea- voyage 
descriptions  given  in  my  letters  since  leaving  home  on  the 
24th  of  May,  1875,  there  is  nothing  new  to  say  in  an  ordinary 
voyage  across  the  Atlantic,  so  I will  finish  this  long  series 
with  the  promised  remme  of  om*  year’s  travel.  We  have 
crossed  all  the  meridians  which  geographically  span  the 
globe,  and  have  traveled,  l>y  land  and  by  water,  twenty-seven 
thonsand  five  hundred  and  seventy-one  ndles  during  an 
absence  from  home  of  one  year  and  twelve  days. 


167 


168 


ACEOSS  THE  MEKEDIANS. 


RESUME. 


WE  left  Troy  May  21,  1875,  yisiting  New  York,  Fire 
Island,  and  Boston  before  starting  for  San  Francisco, 
this  being  a preface  of  six  linii(.b’ed  miles  to  oiu*  long  joimiey. 
The  following  memoranda,  including  six  bnndred  miles 
already  mentioned,  may  serve  yon  as  an  itinerary  of  oim  toim : 


FROM 

MILES. 

TIME. 

COST  OF 
TAVO 

New  YoT’k  to  8an  Francisco,  l)y  rail  .... 

329(i 

7 days 

TICKETS. 

$340.00 

Travels  in  California 

500 

14  days 

200.00 

San  Francisco  to  Yokohama,  by  water  . . . 

4800 

25  days 

500  00 

Yokohama  to  Tokio  and  return,  l)v  rail  . . . 

60 

6 hours 

10.00 

A^okohama  to  Shanghai,  hy  ■water 

1200 

7 days 

50-00 

Shanghai  to  Hong  Kong,  hy  water 

850 

3 days 

80.00 

Hong  Kong  to  Canton  and  I'cturn,  hy  ■water  . 

180 

12  hours 

20.00 

Hong  Kong  to  Point  de  (lalle,  hy  water  . . 

3061 

14  days 

386.00 

Point  de  Galle  to  Calcntta,  and  from  Bom- 
l)ay  to  Suez,  hv  water 

4320 

22  days 

350.00 

Calcntta  to  Benares,  l)y  rail 

476 

20  hours 

50.00 

Benares  to  Agra,  hv  rail 

366 

1 7 hours 

20.00 

Agra  to  Delhi,  hy  rail 

113 

7 hours 

8.00 

Delhi  to  Allahal)ad,  and  Allahabad  to  Bom- 
l)av,  hy  rail 

1234 

3 days 

100.00 

Snez  to  Cairo,  l)y  rail 

225 

8 hours 

20.00 

Cairo  to  Alexandria,  by  rail . 

150 

5 hours 

19.00 

Alexandria  to  the  Pinens,  the  sea-port  of 
Athens,  t)y  water 

550 

3 days 

30.00 

KESUME. 


1G9 


COST  OP 

PliOM 

MILES. 

TIME. 

TWO 

TICKETS. 

Athens  to  Venice,  by  water 

980 

()  days 

$88.00 

Venice  to  Paris,  by  rail .... 

900 

36  hours 

70.00 

Paris  to  London,  V)y  rail 

250 

9 hours 

28-00 

London  to  Liverpool,  l)v  rail 

204 

5 hours 

15.00 

Liverpool  to  New  York,  by  water 

3100 

10  days 

230.00 

New'  York  to  Trov,  l>y  rail 

156 

5 hours 

8.00 

The  time  occupied  in  actual  travel  was  one  hundred  and 
eig’liteeii  days  and  ten  iiom’s,  which  included  ninety  days  and 
two  hours  at  sea.  Our  entire  traveling  exx)enses,  not  includ- 
ing hotel  charges  and  carriage  fares,  amounted  to  $2622. 


22 


I - ^ - -S 


/ 


»« 


1 


\ 


s 


FRAG  M E NT  A R Y L E TT  E R S. 


F R AG  MEN  T A IIY  I.  E T E R S. 


I 


Across  the  Atlantic. 


ULY  19,  1882.  On  board  tlie  Gallia.  My  dear  A.:  At  this 


writing,  live  p.  m.,  we  are  well  ont  at  sea,  and  already 
the  passengers  are  specnlating  on  the  time  of  the  steamer’s 
arrival  at  Queenstown.  It  has  been  decided  by  the  wise 
ones  in  the  cabin,  who  have  crossed  the  Atlantic  many  times, 
that  we  shall  reach  Liverpool  on  Friday,  nine  <lays  hence. 

We  did  indeed  have  a tine  leave-taking  this  morning.  I 
observed  that  the  (xovernment  cutter  kept  close  alongside 
until  the  Gallia  increased  her  speed  and  we  regretfully 
parted  from  yon.  We  have  only  one  humh'ed  and  ninety 
cabin  passengers,  and  seventy-live  steerage.  This  is  a 
small  number  of  passengers,  and  therefore  we  expect  to  be 
well  cared  for  by  the  stewards. 

Groing  to  our  cabin,  we  found  tlie  seven  elegant  floral  gifts 
and  three  baskets  of  fruit  which  you,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  S.,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  B.  of  Yonkers  had  so  kindly  left  there  for  us, 
besides  two  steamer-chairs  with  adjustable  cushions.  These 


173 


174 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


tokens  of  youi*  and  our  friends’  affection  enshrined  the 
givers  more  closely  in  our  hearts.  Did  yon  see  the  sailor 
tie  one  of  the  largest  hoiiquets  given  ns  to  the  stern  raihng 
when  we  parted  from  yonr  cutter  ? Wlien  he  had  fastened 
it  there,  the  old  tar  sympathetically  said  to  me,  “Well, 
ni’nin,  it  is  rather  hard  to  leave  yoiu-  relations  behind.”  I 
was  in  no  mood  to  discuss  the  tender  subject  with  him,  and 
only  signihed  an  affirmation  with  my  tearful  eyes. 

Dinner  has  just  been  announced,  hut  I care  not  for  dinner 
to-day.  Yon  see,  1 have  commenced  akeady  my  journal  as 
I promised  to  do. 

July  20th.  I must  confess  to  having  had  twinges  of  mal 
de  mer  to-day,  hut  I am  really  ashamed  to  declare  the  fact, 
for  the  sea  is  cahn  and  the  weather  fine.  The  passengers 
have  already  compared  notes  respecting  the  nimiher  of  voy- 
ages they  have  made.  One’s  sea  travels  are,  as  you  know, 
after  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  vessel  into  port  has  been 
settled,  the  next  subject  of  conversation.  This  is  the  sixth 
time  yonr  father  and  I have  crossed  the  Atlantic.  Besides 
crossing  the  Pacific  once,  we  have  sailed  on  nearly  all  the 
large  seas.  While  we  are  not  veterans  at  sea,  we  have  had 
some  varied  experiences  of  ocean  travel. 

Among  the  passengers  with  whom  we  have  made  ac- 
tpiaintance  are  Governor  and  Mrs.  B.,  and  Mrs.  H.  and 
daughter,  of  Hartford,  Conn.,  and  we  have  had  our  steam- 
er-chairs placed  together  in  a group,  which  means  agreeable 
companionship. 

July  21st.  This  lovely  day  the  Gallia  plows  the  water 
as  steadily  as  a ferry-boat.  The  niercmy  is  in  the  eighties 
and  the  cabins  are  uncomfortahly  warm;  but  the  cuisine 


ACIIOSS  THE  ATLANTIC. 


175 


and  the  service  are  excellent,  and  we  enjoy  onr  morning 
bath  of  cold  sea-water. 

Jnly  22d.  The  weather  to-day  is  delightfnl.  Since  yes- 
terday noon  we  have  run  three  hnndred  and  forty-fonr 
miles.  We  are  now  well  on  onr  way  across. 

July  23d.  Sunday.  The  line  weather  still  continues. 
With  onr  last  run  of  three  hundred  and  forty-six  miles 
we  are  half-way  to  Liverpool.  We  passed  the  Baidcs  yes- 
terday vdthout  a glimmer  of  a fog,  whicli,  I am  told,  is 
quite  unusual  at  this  time  of  the  year.  This  morning  the 
Captain  read  the  English  Church  service  in  the  cabin,  and 
Dr.  N.,  of  the  American  Chapel  in  Rome  delivered  a short 
and  impressive  sermon. 

July  2Jth.  We  have  on  hoard  a crew  of  one  hundi'ed  and 
seventy-eight  men,  including  fifty-two  sailors,  forty-eight 
firemen,  and  seventy-eight  stewards,  liesides  the  officers  of 
the  ship.  Old  Sam,  one  of  the  cabin  stewards,  has  been 
twenty-eight  years  in  the  ser\dce  of  the  Cunard  Steamship 
Company.  The  average  daily  consumption  of  coal  on  the 
Gallia  is  about  one  lmndi*ed  tons. 

July  2Gth.  Our  ship’s  log  tells  us  we  have  made  three 
liumRed  and  fifty-four  miles  in  the  last  twenty-four  hours. 
With  the  freshening  breeze  the  passengers  on  deck  look  a 
httle  dull. 

July  27th.  At  noon  to-day  we  sighted  the  Irish  coast.  A 
dense  fog  shortly  afterward  obscured  the  view  of  the  Emer- 
ald Isle.  For  some  hours  we  have  had  a very  rough  sea. 


176 


FKAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


but  we  are  mo\ung  along  now  more  steadily.  We  expect 
to  touch  at  Queenstown  before  night. 

July  28th.  The  heavy  fog  of  yesterday  prevented  our 
going  into  Queenstowm  Harbor  and  our  course  was  laid 
direct  for  Liverpool.  Many  of  the  i)assengers  have  written 
letters  to-day,  in  order  to  send  them  by  the  lirst  out-going 
mail. 

July  29th.  At  eight  o’clock  this  morning  we  passed  Hol- 
lyhead  light-house.  The  sight  of  green  fields  is  most  refresh- 
ing after  a nine  days’  sea  voyage.  We  shall  soon  say 
good-hye  to  pleasant  acquaintances  and  go  ashore  early  in 
the  afternoon. 


II 


Loudon.,  Paris.,  Madrid. 


iNDON,  July  JO,  I(S82.  We  are  again  coinfortal)ly  located 


at  the  old  t'aiiiiliar  |)lace,  the  Inns  of  Court  Hotel,  look- 
ing out  upon  Liueohi’s  Inn  Fields.  We  find  some  familiar 
faces  about  tlie  hotel  wliicli  we  knew  in  1876,  when  we 
lodged  here  a few  weeks  during  our  sojourn  in  London  after 
our  toui‘  around  the  world.  The  United  States  C7jiisid, 
General  M.,  and  Mrs.  M.  came  to  greet  us  very  soon  after 
our  arrival.  Toward  evening  we  visited  the  Bush  and  Bull 
Inn,  al)Out  an  hour’s  drive  from  our  hotel.  This  inn  is  a 
celel)rated  place.  It  was  the  resort  of  Coleridge,  Keats,  and 
other  contemporary  English  literati,  where  they  enjoyed 
their  harmless  carousals.  The  Bush  and  Bull  was  at  that 
time  quite  out  of  town  and  distant  from  any  neigI)oring  huild- 
ing.  The  famous  tap-room  is  twenty  feet  square,  and  seven 
feet  high.  The  inn  stands  uj)on  an  eminence  al)out  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  old  London.  We  found  the 
atmospliere  clear  and  refreshing.  Of  coiu’se,  we  took  a taidv- 
ard  of  beer  in  honor  of  old  memories. 

ACe  started  to  go  to  Chisellmrst  the  other  day,  hut  were 
driven  home  I)y  an  unexpected  rain-storm.  We  went  as  far 
as  (Treenwich  in  a boat,  intending  to  finish  tlie  excursion  in 
a carriage.  There  we  visited  the  celel^rated  restaurant.  The 
Ship,  where  the  notables  of  London  go  for  short  outings 


23 


177 


178 


FKAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


and  for  fisli  dinners.  We  went  to  look  at  tlie  observatory, 
from  wliicli  longitude  is  reckoned,  and  where  the  nieasure- 
nient  of  time  is  regulated  for  the  English  realm.  Here  I 
realized  more  than  ever  l)efore  that  we  had  really  made 
a journey  around  the  world,  when  standing  on  the  point 
throngh  which  the  imaginary  line  known  as  the  meridian 
of  (Ireenwich  passes,  from  which  distance  east  and  west  and 
the  circumference  of  the  glol)e  are  measured.  When  the 
rain  had  ceased  tailing  somewhat,  we  thouglit  to  venture 
on  the  drive  to  t'liisellmrst,  l)ut  we  were  obliged  to  go  to  the 
Itlackheath  milage  for  a carriage. 

We  crossed  the  heath,  more  than  a mile  wide,  on  foot,  but 
before  arriving  on  the  other  side  of  it,  the  rain  came  down 
in  torrents,  and  we  were  glad  to  seek  the  first  shelter  which 
offered  itself — this  was  a livery  stalde.  We  asked  the  favor 
of  going  to  the  kitchen  to  dry  oui‘  clotiies.  We  found  an  old 
man  sitting  in  the  chimney-corner  warming  his  hands  over 
a shovelful  of  dindy  ]3urning  coals.  Seeing  how  wet  we 
wei-e,  he  told  the  old  woman  sitting  l)y  his  side  to  give  us 
“a  dro])  of  hrandy  to  keep  the  cold  off,”  which  we  accepted 
very  thankfully.  No  drive  to  Chiselhurst  that  day. 

This  kind  old  man  told  us  something  of  his  history  while 
we  were  standing  vdth  our  backs  toward  the  hot  eml)ers. 
He  said  he  was  uiiiety-live  years  <')ld,  and  had  l)een  at  work, 
from  “boy  to  master,”  in  that  stal)le  since  180b,  and  that  he 
was  going  to  quit  the  l)usiness  shortly,  for  he  thought  that 
he  was  too  old  to  pursue  it  any  longe]*.  The  young  men,  he 
also  remarked,  were  getting  the  l)usiness  away  from  him, 
and  that  there  was  not  much  money  in  it  nowadays.  He 
said  Blackheatli  was  an  old  settled  place  when  he  came 
there  to  live,  and  that  he  had  not  seen  many  changes  in  it  in 
his  time. 


LONDON,  PARIS,  MADRID. 


179 


IONDON,  August  7,  1882.  To-day  is  Bank  Holiday  iu 
J London,  wlien  tlie  city  goes  to  the  country,  and  the 
country  conies  to  the  city.  Tins  holiday  occui's  three  times 
in  the  year.  All  business  is  suspended,  and  house  service  is 
limited.  The  Inn  Fields  are  swarming  A\dth  young  peo])le 
playing  lawn  tennis  and  croquet.  London  is  indeed  a large 
city ; it  covers  one  humh*ed  and  forty  square  miles  of  terri- 
tory, including  the  large  additions  which  have  been  made  in 
the  last  few  decades.  We  go  to  Paris  in  two  days. 


Ris,  August  11,  1882.  We  are  quartered  again  at  the 


Hotel  Byi‘011,  on  Rue  Lalitte,  where  we  spent  some 
weeks  sevend  years  ago.  Paris  is  not  the  Paris  of  olden 
times  under  the  Empire.  1 observe  the  streets  are  not  as 
well  kept  as  formerly,  although  there  are  tlie  usual  glitter 
and  hrilhancy  in  the  shop  windows.  We  shall  not  do  much 
sight-seeing  this  time.  Your  father  intends  going  to  Carls- 
liad  for  three  weeks  to  take  the  waters.  1 shall  do  some 
shopping  and  enjoy  drives  in  the  Champs  Elysees  and  the 
Bois  de  Boulogne. 


OTEL  DE  Russie,  Madrid,  Septeml)er  21,  1882.  We  left 


Paris  on  the  18th  inst.,  in  the  early  morning,  and 
arrived  at  Bordeaux  at  six  p.  m.,  where  we  remained  two  days, 
and  then  came  direct  to  Madrid,  a twenty-four-hours’  journey. 
Without  our  provision  of  l)i*ead,  chicken,  and  wine,  brought 
from  Bordeaux,  we  should  have  l)een  (piite  hungry,  for  we 
stopped  on  the  way  only  once  as  long  as  twenty  minutes, 
though  we  made  frequent  stops  of  three  to  five  minutes. 


4. 


180 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


Our  train  was  not  provided  with  a sleeping-car  at  the 
Spanish  frontier,  as  had  l^een  promised,  so  we  were  obliged 
to  sit  ill  onr  seats  all  night  long  very  niicoinfortahly.  At 
dawn  we  came  in  sight  of  the  church  spires  of  Madrid.  The 
United  States  Minister,  Mr.  H.,  met  ns  at  the  station,  and 
kindly  conducted  ns  to  his  hotel. 

After  crossing  the  Spanisli  frontier  at  Irnn,  we  came  at 
once  to  the  foot-hills  of  the  Pyrenees,  along  which  the  road 
runs  for  some  distance.  We  were  ten  hours  in  crossing  the 
nionntains.  We  ran  throngli  thirty-three  tunnels  and  many 
nioimtain  jiasses  on  trestle  ]>ridges.  The  scenery  along  the 
})asses  is  grand.  The  slopes  of  the  nionntains  are  covered 
with  corn-lields,  vineyards,  and  groves  of  chestnnt-trees. 
Tlie  chestiint  is  used  very  largely  for  food  Viy  the  people, 
while  the  corn  is  fed  to  animals.  After  leading  the  monnt- 
ains,  we  came  into  a rocky  and  jagged  conntiy  with  deep 
and  dark  ravines  and  many  vdnding  streams.  It  is  the  most 
nninviting  country  1 have  ever  seen,  and  reminds  one  of  the 
scenes  of  some  of  the  Spanish  nionntaineer  stories  which 
horrify  one  with  their  frightful  features.  Here  and  there 
the  only  inhahited  place  one  sees  in  this  dreary  region  is  a 
little  hamlet  with  a half-dozen  adobe  houses  and  a church. 

Madrid  is  one  thousand  feet  aliove  the  sea,  and  about  in 
the  center  of  Spain.  On  acconnt  of  its  high  situation,  the 
city  is  exposed  to  very  severe  winds,  which  render  tlie  climate 
extremely  trying  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.  A short 
distance  from  Madrid,  on  an  elevation  of  groniid,  stands  a 
church,  the  site  of  which  is  said  to  he  the  exact  central  point 
of  Spain.  The  lieantifnl  capital  is  environed  by  a barren 
and  rocky  extent  of  country,  and  therefore  provisions  must 
he  hronght  from  a distance,  the  transportation  of  which 
increases  the  cost  of  li\dng.  Spanish  hotels  are  not  as  com- 


LONDON,  PAIIIS,  MADRID. 


181 


fortable  as  others  on  the  Continent.  There  is  plenty  of  gilt 
and  stucco  ornamentation  on  them,  Init  it  does  not  substi- 
tute good  l)eds  and  palatalde  food.  The  floors  of  onr  liotel 
are  of  stone  or  tile ; the  walls  are  enil)ellished  with  nincli 
gilding,  and  the  favorite  color  of  the  draperies  is  yellow. 
There  is  a lieantifnl  drive  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  called  the 
Ketiro,  where  may  he  seen  magniflcent  turnouts  and  lieanti- 
fnl  women  wearing  mantillas  on  their  heads  instead  of  bon- 
nets. However,  I am  told  the  mantilla  is  fast  giving  way 
to  the  French  hats.  The  palace  has  a preserve  or  hnnting- 
gronnds  eight  to  ten  miles  square,  liegiiining  at  the  gardens 
of  tlie  palace. 

We  have  only  been  alile  to  catch  a glimpse  of  the  wonder- 
ful works  of  art  in  the  Madrid  picture-gallery.  It  contains 
one  of  the  iiiost  valnable  collections  in  the  world.  The  mas- 
terpieces of  Murillo,  Titian,  Tintoretto,  Velas(piez,  Ka])hael, 
Rend)randt,  Rnliens,  Van  Dyck,  Teniers,  Guido  Reni  and 
other  great  painters  ai*e  in  it.  But  what  can  one  accomiilish 
in  live  or  six  hours  in  studying  these  renowned  masters  f 


Ill 


Lishou  (111(1  Some  of  its  Environx. 


^BON,  Hepteml)er  25,  1882.  We  left  Madrid  on  the  23d 


iiist.,  at  nine  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  arrived  here  on 
the  following  inoniing  at  seven  o’clock.  AYe  traveled  many 
hours  through  olive  groves,  vineyards,  and  cork  forests.  \Ye 
ventured  with  the  few  Portuguese  words  at  our  command  to 
l)uy  some  fruit,  nuts,  and  coffee  en  route.  At  the  custoni- 
liouse  on  the  frontier  we  again  drew  on  our  small  vocab- 
ulary of  Portuguese,  sufficient  to  comply  with  the  formalities. 

On  our  aiTival  at  the  Lisl)on  station  Ave  were  met  hy  a 
representative  from  the  American  legation,  who  escorted 
us  to  the  Hotel  Braganza.  Cm*  rooms  front  the  River  Tagus 
overlooking  two  parallel  tiers  of  streets  one  al)ove  the  other, 
on  which  are  houses  fom*  stories  high.  Lisbon  is  built  up 
and  down  on  hills ; often  the  ascents  are  very  steep.  In 
fact  the  entire  country  is  hilly ; I have  heard  it  said  that  it 
would  l)e  difficult  to  find  one  humh'ed  rods  of  level  road  in 
all  Portugal.  From  our  balcony  we  look  to  the  mouth  of  the 
river  seven  miles  distant,  and  we  have  a good  view  of  all  the 
shipping  in  the  harbor,  and  a large  expanse  of  the  sea.  The 
chniate  is  now  delightfid ; the  days  are  like  those  of  June, 
and  with  the  evening  come  the  sea  breezes.  1 should  like  to 


182 


h 

'f 

» 


I 


I 


I 


- 


PRA^A  DE  DOM  PEDRO.  LISBON. 


LISBON  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  ENVIBONS. 


183 


portray  to  you  tlie  mountain  and  marine  views  seen  from  our 
windows ; perhaps  I may  find  time  later  to  descrilie  them. 

Tliere  are  several  large  and  beautiful  praras^  or  public 
squares,  in  Lisbon.  Tliese  squares  occupy,  one  might  almost 
say,  the  only  level  ground  in  tlie  city.  They  are  well  paved 
and  shaded  hj  large  trees,  and  surrounded  by  tine  iuil)lic  or 
private  buildings ; all  contain  monuments  or  fountains  of 
bowing  water.  The  jxisseio  piihUco^  or  public  park,  a large 
open  garden,  ornate  with  fountains,  statuary,  Howers,  and 
tine  old  trees,  offers  a very  attractive  spot  for  an  early  morn- 
ing walk.  Another  charming  park  is  the  aferro,  a wide 
promenade  of  at  least  one  humh-ed  feet,  following  along  the 
bank  of  the  river  looking  to  the  open  sea,  and  shaded  by 
several  rows  of  well-grown  trees.  Here  may  fre({uently  he 
seen  members  of  the  royal  family,  either  driving  or  walking. 
Seats  are  conveniently  arranged,  which  afford  a resting- 
place. 

In  the  legation  circle  in  the  hotel  is  a babel  of  tongues. 
The  waiters  speak  French  ; the  room-servants  Portuguese ; 
the  legation  attaches,  English  ; the  consular  clerk,  IMr.  de  Z., 
and  his  family,  Hungarian,  and  we  communicate  with  his 
family  in  German. 

Lisbon,  Septend>er  30,  1882.  I am  informed  that  the 
climate  is  very  agreeable  here  in  winter.  Tlie  country  and  its 
customs  are  attractive,  and  the  fruits  excellent.  The  gardens, 
houses,  and  streets  in  many  places  in  the  city  oveiliang  one 
another.  The  hills  are  terraced,  to  render  them  suitalile  for 
building  upon,  frequently  the  tops  of  houses  support  gardens 
containing  large  trees.  There  are  many  uninclosed  small 
parks  and  pretty  gardens  full  of  flowers  and  lilossoniing  trees. 
There  is  a great  alnmdance  and  variety  of  cacti  growing  along 


184 


FRAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


the  country  roads,  and  often  we  see  long  hedges  of  wild  rose 
geraniums  in  i)looni,  ])ordering  them.  The  niorning-gloiy  is 
in  full  hlooni  through  the  day,  and  the  dahlia  is  seen  in  per- 
fection. The  time  of  dowers  in  Lisbon  is  winter. 

Lisl)on,  October  22,  1882.  We  are  settled  for  the  winter 
in  a nice  and  conifortahle  hotel  on  the  Riia  do  Alecriin,  with 
a cliarniing  little  cacti  jungle  in  full  l)looni  across  the  street. 
W e have  had  our  presentation  to  the  queen.  Dona  Maria  Pia, 
and  to  the  king,  Dom  Luiz.  It  occurred  at  the  palace  in 
t-ascaes  on  the  sea-shore  l)elow  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
occasion  was  tlie  queen’s  l)irthday,  when  the  king  always 
gives  a hall  at  Ins  snnnner  palace.  The  etiquette  reception 
took  place  at  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  l)all  at  nine 
o’clock  in  the  evening.  The  qneen  was  attended  by  a half- 
dozen  ladies  of  honoT'.  Her  toilette  was  simple  and  l)eautiful. 
It  was  of  white  satin,  brocaded  with  blue  velvet,  and  diamond 
ornaments.  She  received  us  very  kindly,  addressing  us  in 
French.  The  king  speaks  Enghsh,  and  also  the  princes  are  at 
home  in  the  English  language.  The  king  has  translated 
several  of  Sliakspere’s  plays  into  Portuguese.  He  is  an 
earnest  student. 

The  hall  was  given  in  an  improvised  liall-room  on  a large 
wide  terrace,  inclosed  with  red  and  white  Imnting,  and  deco- 
rated with  various  national  flags  and  stands  of  armor.  From 
the  roof  of  the  pavilion  were  suspended  Chinese  lanterns,  bas- 
kets of  flowers,  and  trailing  vines.  The  dancing-space  was 
encircled  vdth  pedestals  (Raped  vdth  bright  fabrics  support- 
ing urns  of  flowers,  and  twined  with  vines.  Between  the 
l)edestals  were  placed  gilt  sofas  upholstered  in  yellow  satin. 
The  parquet  was  covered  with  crimson  velvet  carpet,  and 
over  a limited  space  in  the  center  white  linen  was  laid  on 


LISBON  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  ENVIEONS. 


185 


which  to  dance.  The  queen’s  toilette  was  of  vemiilion  satin 
with  a tahlier  of  white  silvered  iiioire  autiqne^  and  a silver 
cord  around  tlie  waist  ending  witii  silver  tassels.  The  queen 
is  a l)eantifnl  l)londe  vdtli  luxuriant,  liglit  wavy  hair  and 
soft  l>rovni  eyes.  The  two  princes,  nineteen  and  seventeen 
years  of  age,  are  also  Idondes  vdth  wavy  hair  and  1.)lne  eyes. 
Tlie  royal  family  opened  the  ball  at  10:30  o’clock  with  the 
Lancers.  During  the  remainder  of  the  evening  the  king 
and  queen  passed  the  time  in  conversation  wdth  the  guests. 
Tlie  hall  closed  at  four  o’clock  in  the  morning. 

On  this  occasion  we  were  presented  to  His  Majesty  Dom 
Fernando,  the  father  of  tlie  king,  wlio  lionored  us  witli  an 
agreeable  conversation,  and  spoke  very  admiringly  of  his 
American  wife,  the  Countess  Edla,  who  was  not  present  at 
the  hall. 

The  other  day  we  drove  down  to  Di/.v  quinfa  (l(n<;  nuitelias 
— translated  into  English  it  means  the  Camellia  garden — to 
pay  a visit  to  tlie  little  Hungarian  colony,  Mr.  de  Z.  and 
family.  This  is  a lovely  little  snhnrlian  residence  amid  a 
luxuriance  of  camellias  and  roses,  surrounded  by  blossoming 
and  f] ‘nit-bearing  oi'ange  and  lemon  trees.  The  garden  is 
encircled  witli  grape-vines  clustered  with  ripe  fruit.  While 
at  the  quinta,  the  daughter  of  Mr.  de  Z.  was  asked  to  enter- 
tain us  with  some  music  on  the  piano.  I was  not  a little 
surprised  when  she  played  the  Bhnnen  Lied^  or  Flower  Song, 
the  last  composition  I had  played  on  my  piano  liefore  leav- 
ing home. 

ACe  have  paid  a visit  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  P.  at  their  country 
home,  an  hour’s  drive  from  Lisl)on,  called  Das  quiiifa  da 
mifra — niitra  lieing  the  Portuguese  word  for  miter.  This 
palace  was  Imilt  aliont  two  hundred  years  ago  for  the  Patri- 
arch of  Lisbon.  This  is  one  of  the  few  palaces  in  the 


24 


186 


FliAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


vicinity  of  Lisbon  tlnit  withstood  the  dreadfnl  earthquake 
of  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  ago,  which  almost  destroyed 
Lisbon,  and  caused  the  death  of  sixty  thousand  people. 

The  building  is  of  stone  and  concrete,  two  stories  high ; 
the  wooden.  Gothic  ceilings  in  both  stories  are  twenty  feet 
liigh.  On  each  floor  are  ten  large  rooms.  There  is  a chapel 
just  inside  the  entrance  where  daily  services  are  held  when 
tlie  family  ai*e  at  home.  The  kitchen  and  servants’  rooms 
are  in  separate  buildings.  The  architecture  is  a composition 
of  the  Gothic  and  Moorish  styles.  The  first  floor  has  a 
dado  of  blue  tiling,  six  feet  high,  in  Moorish  designs.  They 
are  historical  and  legendary.  The  floors  are  of  stone,  as  are 
also  the  window-seats.  The  carriage  entrance  extends  to 
the  toot  of  the  grand  stairway  which  leads  directly  to  the 
large  reception  hall.  The  furniture  is  old,  having  been  made 
on  the  grounds  at  the  time  the  palace  was  built  — each  piece 
for  its  place. 

The  ]jatriarch’s  carriage  is  still  in  existence,  but  it  has 
been  unserviceable  tor  many  years.  It  is  a large  vehicle, 
double  the  size  of  a modern  carriage,  and  required  six 
liorses  to  draw  it.  It  is  richly  decorated  vdth  solid  silver, 
and  heavy  gold  plating.  The  body  of  the  carriage  swings 
upon  leather  straps,  the  springs  of  olden  times.  The  crimson 
velvet  lining  is  now  in  shreds.  The  outside  painting  is 
yellow  and  black. 

The  patriarch’s  throne  is  still  intact,  but  its  crimson  velvet 
draperies  will  soon  be  no  more ; they  are  hanging  in  tatters. 

The  walls  of  the  kitchen,  a very  large  room,  with  several 
stone  tables,  mid  a half  dozen  small  ranges  in  an  enormous 
fire-place,  are  covered  with  blue  and  white  tiling  on  which 
are  numerous  representations  of  things  used  for  food.  The 
furniture  of  this  quaint  old  kitchen  is  carved  stone,  there  is 


LISBON  ANO  SOME  OF  ITS  ENVIKONS. 


187 


not  a wooden  piece  in  the  room,  and  many  of  the  cooking 
utensils  are  of  stone.  The  present  family  have  imjirovised  a 
small  kitchen  in  one  corner  of  the  room,  and  use  only  one  of 
the  ranges.  The  kitchen  remains  as  it  was  originally  l)nilt 
and  furnished.  The  gardens  comprise  six  acres  of  land,  in 
which  there  are  fruit-trees,  several  fonntains,  and  snni- 
mer-houses  overrun  with  tea-roses  and  heliotropes.  On  the 
grounds  is  a Moorish  well,  used  for  irrigating  the  gardens,  in 
which  it  is  said  are  the  original  wheels  and  buckets. 

The  present  owner  of  tins  fine  estate  is  an  American  who 
came  to  Europe  thirty-four  years  ago  in  an  official  capacity, 
and  has  never  returned  to  his  native  land.  Madame  P.  is  a 
charming  Spanish  lady,  and  at  one  time  was  attached  to  the 
Spanish  court.  Mr.  P.  has  also  another  palace  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river  called  Payo  d’Arkos.  This  too  is  a charm- 
ing cininta.  The  family  make  it  a vdnter  residence.  The 
house  is  a large  old-fashioned  Portuguese  mansion,  resting 
against  the  liase  of  a high  hill. 

There  are  corridors  inside  and  wide  verandas  outside  the 
building.  There  are  charming  rose-bordered  walks  meander- 
ing in  every  direction,  and  upon  the  highest  elevation  stands 
a vine-covered  tea-house.  Prom  this  point  of  mew  one  sees 
Lisbon  seated  on  its  many  hills,  and  a liroad  expanse  of  the 
Atlantic.  At  Pago  d’Arkos  is  a large  terrace  adjoining  the 
house,  inclosed  by  roses,  heliotrope,  flowering  vines,  and  sweet- 
scented  shrubbery.  Here  the  family  are  served  with  tea  at 
four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  Madame  P.  calls  this  quinta  her 
petiU  Pif  reuees.  There  is  a charming  daughter  in  the  family 
who  occupies  some  of  her  leisure  time  in  photographing  her 
friends  visiting  her,  and  in  taking  weAvs  of  the  landscape,  and 
of  some  of  the  attractiA^e  water-craft  lying  at  anclior  at  this 
point. 


188 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


SBON,  November  5,  1882.  On  Octo])er  31st,  at  two  o’clock 


p.  M.,  on  the  occasion  of  the  Idng’s  l)irthday,  there  was  a 
conrt  reception  at  the  Adjnda  Palace  in  the  city  when  the 
king  received  the  congratnlations  of  the  diplomatic  corps  and 
nol3ility.  The  cpieen  wore  a train  of  sai)plhre  velvet,  bordered 
with  ermine,  a wliite  satin  waist  and  petticoat,  and  jewels  of 
sapphire  and  diamonds.  Tlie  ladies  of  honor,  twenty  in  all, 
wore  the  national  gala  costume, — white  satin  waists  and  pet- 
ticoats, pale  })lne  velvet  trains,  which  tliey  carried  over  their 
left  arms,  and  coiffures  of  blue  feathers.  Tiie  grande  mai- 
tresse  is  a lady  of  sixty  years  of  age.  It  is  her  office  to  carry 
the  queen’s  train,  walking  hehind  her  majesty.  In  the  even- 
ing the  opera  Lucia  ffi  Laimnermoor  was  performed  in  the 
San  Carlos  Opera  House ; the  royal  family  and  court,  the 
di|)loniatic  corps,  and  the  nol)ility  were  present.  The  queen 
wore  a pearl  satin  toilet  and  diamond  ornaments ; the  court 
was  in  (p-iwde  tenue. 

Lisbon,  Novenil)er  29,  1882.  We  have  seen  a bull-light, 
the  last  of  the  season.  In  the  snnimer  there  is  one  every 
Sunday.  A Portuguese  Imll-fight  of  to-day  is  not  the  cruel 
and  brntaliziug  sport  of  former  times,  nor  is  it  as  repulsive 
a s|)ectacle  to  look  upon  as  a Spanish  bnll-liglit.  The  ring 
is  called  a pruga,  and  is  like  a large  open  circus-ring,  with 
two  tiers  of  l30xes,  two  hundred  in  all,  extending  half-way 
around  the  circle.  The  royal  box  is  handsomely  furnished 
with  crimson  velvet  and  gilt  decorations.  Ojtposite  this  box 
is  the  grand  entrance  for  the  cavidleiros,  or  horsemen.  On  one 
side  of  the  royal  box  is  the  entrance  and  exit  for  the  bulls. 
There  are  always  thirteen  bulls  brought  out,  coming  in  singly 
one  after  the  other. 

The  sport  begins  at  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  the 


LISBON  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  ENVIEONS. 


189 


great  lieat  of  the  day  is  over.  In  the  inornhig  of  the  day  of 
the  light  the  points  of  the  horns  of  tlie  l)nlls  are  crowned 
vdth  small  gilded  lialls.  The  hulls  are  from  live  to  seven 
years  old.  Deadly  weapons  are  no  longer  pennitted  to  he 
used  hy  the  luafadoi-.s,  or  lighters.  The  weapons  used  are 
slender  wooden  darts,  two  feet  long,  decorated  vdth  gay-col- 
ored ribbons,  and  Inmng  iron  l)ars  at  one  end  called  f<u‘p<(.s. 
The  cavalleiros  are  gentlemen  well  trained  in  horsemanship. 
►Sometimes  the  fidahjos,  or  nohlenien,  take  part  in  the  sport. 
The  cavalleiros  wear  a costume  of  the  last  centiny, — a liroad- 
tailed  black  velvet  coat,  knee-hreeches,  with  high-topped 
hoots,  cocked  hats,  and  are  monnted  on  splendid  Arabian 
horses.  The  Ixuidan'Iheiroa,  or  foot-lighters,  wear  lichly 
embroidered  velvet  jackets  of  various  colors,  knee-hreeches, 
white  stockings,  black  velvet  slippers  with  broad  buckles, 
and  red  silk  sashes  aroimd  their  waists  ending  with  gilt  tas- 
sels. The  director  of  the  entertainment  sits  under  the  royal 
box,  and  gives  his  orders  through  a bugler  stancUng  hy  his 
side. 

The  performance  begins  with  the  entrance  of  a half-dozen 
cavalleiros  splendidly  mounted  upon  liorses  richly  capari- 
soned, who  make  the  formal  obeisance  to  the  royal  box  and 
sjiectators.  After  making  some  line  evolutions  of  old  Spanish 
horsemanship,  they  retire.  At  a bugle-signal  a handarilhemo 
takes  his  place  at  one  of  the  side  doors  through  which  the 
hulls  enter,  one  at  a time,  he  liolding  in  each  hand  a dart, 
which  he  thrusts  skillfully  and  cpiickly  into  the  sides  of  the 
hull’s  neck  as  he  runs  into  the  ring.  The  hull,  enraged  hy  the 
sting  of  the  hart),  seems  to  know  upon  whom  he  is  to  avenge 
himself,  and  he  plunges  toward  the  young  man  in  the  bright 
jacket,  but  misses  him,  for  the  liandarilheiro  has  already 
jumped  the  partition  wall  and  escaped,  to  appear  at  another 


190 


PEAGMENTAKY  LETTEKS. 


point.  The  hull  is  goaded  on  by  more  harhs  thrust  by  other 
assailants,  and  turns  and  phmges  at  those  nearest  him. 
After  the  infuriated  animal  has  eight  or  ten  darts  dang- 
ling from  liis  neck,  the  tantahzers  begin  to  sliake  large  red 
and  yellow  capes  before  him  to  allure  him  to  attack  them, 
which  lie  does,  but  they  by  dexterous  movements  make  then’ 
escape. 

The  mounted  cavalleiros  now  come  into  the  ring  and  take 
jiart  in  liarliing  the  bull  with  a weapon  four  feet  long.  They 
must  approach  the  Inill  near  enough  to  place  the  dart  in  his 
body  and  yet  save  their  horses  from  being  attacked.  Great 
excitement  ensues,  and  no  little  skillful  horsemanship  is  dis- 
})layed.  As  the  hulls  become  exhaiisted  they  are  led  out  of 
the  ring,  when  the  wounds  are  dressed  with  salt  and  vinegar. 
The  Imlls  are  driven  into  town  the  night  before  the  fight, 
and  returned  to  the  country  soon  after  the  spectacle  is  over. 
The  sport  lasts  aliont  two  hours,  and  closes  vdth  a grand 
entry  of  idl  the  participants,  who  again  bow  to  the  royal 
family  and  the  audience,  expressing  thanks  for  the  patron- 
age. A Imll-fight  occurs  every  Sunday  during  the  summer 
in  Lisbon. 

A bull-fight  in  Spain  is  quite  another  kind  of  a spectacle, 
resulting  often  in  killing  the  Imlls  and  horses. 

Lisbon,  Decemlier  -1,  1882.  The  arrival  in  the  harbor  of 
the  American  corvette  Nipsic  has  caused  a social  flutter 
in  the  limited  circle  of  Americans  in  Lisbon.  Yesterday  we 
limched  on  l)oard  the  vessel,  while  the  ship’s  hand  played 
our  national  airs,  which  we  had  not  heard  since  the  4th  of 
July  last.  The  Nipsic  is  a trim  little  ship,  and  we  are  proud 
to  see  our  flag  floating  m the  harl)or  of  the  Tagus  with  the 
flags  of  other  nations. 


LISBON  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  ENVIRONS. 


191 


Lisbon,  Decenil^er  26,  1882.  Christinas  Eve  was  a jolly 
occasion  at  the  Anierican  legation.  The  officers  of  the  N^ip- 
.sic,  a few  Americans,  and  a half-dozen  Portiignese  friends 
joined  ns,  and  we  had  a very  enjoyable  evening ; songs, 
dancing,  and  animated  conversation  were  followed  by  a good 
supper  and  toasts  to  absent  friends. 

Lisbon,  January  3,  1883.  There  was  anotlier  court  recep- 
tion on  New  Year’s  Day  at  the  Ajnda  Palace.  It  was  a con- 
gratulatory occasion  to  the  royal  family.  The  court  and 
diplomatic  corps  were  present  en  (/raiide  fpinie.  The  court 
and  military  uniforms,  the  rich  diplomatic  costumes,  and 
the  toilettes  of  the  ladies  in  court  trains,  with  jewels  spark- 
ling in  the  sunlight,  made  a spectacle  of  no  little  niagnitl- 
cence.  The  queen  was  attired  ex  iiKwfmti  de  voKr  of  pale 
hlue  velvet,  enil>roidered  with  peails,  gold  and  silver  heads, 
and  hned  vdth  ermine,  worn  over  a waist  and  petticoat  eni- 
liroidered  like  the  train.  Her  jewels  were  of  several  (iolors, 
including  a large  clnstei-  of  various-colored  gems  ni)on  her 
left  shoulder.  Her  toilet  was  snperl).  The  Queen  of  Por- 
tugal wears  the  royal  attire  with  elegance  and  dignity. 

I may  here  call  to  your  remeinl)rance  the  story  of  the 
Crown  Diamonds  in  the  opera  of  that  name  l)y  Anber,  as 
apropos  to  my  lirief  mention  of  the  queen’s  jewels.  The 
story  is  dated  the  year  1777,  tlie  scenes  are  laid  in  Portugal. 
The  opera  is  in  tliret*,  acts ; the  tirst  is  located  in  the  Estre- 
madura  Mountains ; the  second  in  the  Castle  of  the  Duke  de 
Campo-Mayor,  in  Coindira,  and  the  third  in  the  royal  palace 
in  Lisbon.  The  story  is  the  following  : Tlie  young  queen  of 
Portugal,  still  in  her  minority,  is  aware  of  the  straitened  cir- 
cumstances of  the  kingdom,  and  resolves  upon  a way  to  save 
her  conntry,  if  not  from  bankruptcy,  at  least  from  new  Imr- 


192 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


dens.  She  hears  of  a man  who  has  been  sentenced  to  death 
for  coining  false  money.  She  lias  him  secretly  brought 
before  her  and  tells  him  she  will  spare  his  life  if  he  will 
make  an  imitation  of  the  crown  jewels,  hut  to  l)e  done  under 
the  strictest  secrecy,  and  so  perfectly  done  that  the  decep- 
tion shall  not  he  discovered.  Thereupon  the  condemned 
man  collects  his  l)and  of  workmen  and  chooses  for  his 
laboratory  a deej)  cavern  in  the  rocks  of  the  Estremadura 
Mountains  l)eneath  an  old  hermitage.  In  the  garl)  of  a 
gypsy  girl,  the  yonng  j)rincess,  from  time  to  time,  visits  the 
secluded  cavern  under  the  pretense  of  going  to  the  chapel  in 
the  hermitage,  and  carries  to  the  connterfeiter  the  diamonds 
of  which  he  is  to  make  tlie  imitations. 

In  the  mean  time  an  accident  happens  to  one  of  the  fidal- 
(/os,  or  not)ility,  who  chances  to  he  traveling  in  that  country 
and  has  l)een  throvm  from  his  carriage  and  seriously  hurt. 
He  is  })rought  to  the  hei’mitage  for  rest.  Accidentally  he 
falls  through  a trap-door  into  the  cave  where  the  men  are  at 
work,  and  the  princess,  dressed  like  a gypsy  woman,  happens 
to  he  at  the  time.  The  young  nohleman  is  oldiged  to  remain 
some  time  in  the  cavern  l)efore  he  can  he  removed.  He 
becomes  enamored  of  the  pretty  gypsy  girl,  who  does  not 
lepel  his  advances,  tor  she  knows  frdl  well  with  whom  she  is 
in  companionship.  However,  the  time  comes  for  them  to 
separate.  He  swears  that  he  will  not  diwilge  what  he  has 
seen  in  the  cavern,  and  tlie  gyi^sy  gives  him  one  of  the  real 
jewels  as  a souvenir,  and  recpiests  him  never  to  part  with  it. 

The  false  jewels  are  at  last  finished,  and  tlie  chief  of  the 
hand  with  the  gypsy  girl  starts  for  Lisbon.  Meanwhile  the 
crown  jewels  are  missed,  and  the  country  is  filled  with 
armed  police  searching  for  them.  The  chief  and  the  gjl^sy 
are  arrested  on  susiiicion,  and  are  taken  to  Coimlira,  where 


LISBON  AND  SOME  OF  ITS  EN^^IIONS. 


193 


they  are  lirouglit  liefore  the  Minister  of  Justice.  Tliei*e  tlie 
iiohleniaii  meets  the  gypsy,  for  lie  too  is  under  temporary 
arrest,  having  heen  discovered  wearing  one  of  the  lost  gems 
on  his  finger.  He  is  greatly  surprised  to  see  her  with  the 
chief  of  the  hand  of  supposed  rolihers,  hut  through  the 
influence  of  the  nohleman  she  and  the  counterfeiter  olitain 
their  freedom.  All  hurry  on  to  Ijislion  to  sue  for  mercy 
before  the  queen,  who  has  just  heen  declared  to  have 
attained  her  majority,  and  is  soon  to  he  crowned. 

Diu'ing  this  time,  the  real  jewels  have  been  sent  to  Europe 
for  sale,  and  the  false  ones  have  been  sid3stituted  in  their 
place. 

The  young  queen  is  crowned.  On  the  day  of  her  coronation 
the  denouinent  occurs,  when  the  queen  explains  most  sat- 
isfactorily her  plan  tor  replenishing  the  treasury,  and  her 
course  is  approved.  The  young  fidalgo  appears  before  the 
(pieen  to  sue  for  pardon,  and  is  surprised  to  discover  that 
she  and  the  gjqisy  girl  are  the  same  person;  and  a second 
and  greater  sui'prise  awaits  him  when  the  queen  chooses  him 
for  tier  husliand,  and  says,  “All  is  well,  nothing  is  false  Imt 
the  jewels  I wear,  and  this  is  tor  the  good  of  the  country.” 


25 


IV 


Cinfra. 


iNTiiA,  Jaimary  5,  1883.  We  came  here  yesterday  to 


escape  the  noise  and  annoyance  of  the  carnival  at  Lis- 
bon, in  which  all  classes  participate.  Last  evening  we  saw 
a really  pretty  carnival  spectacle.  About  five  o’clock  in  the 
afternoon  a group  of  eight  little  girls,  from  twelve  to  fourteen 
years  old,  and  as  many  country  cavaliers,  about  twenty  years 
of  age,  formed  themselves  in  a circle  in  front  of  our  hotel, 
with  a hand  of  country  musicians.  The  group  danced  a 
national  dance  lasting  nearly  an  hour.  The  major  domo  of 
tlie  party  was  dressed  as  a warrior  of  the  olden  time,  and 
mounted  on  a gayly  caparisoned  white  horse  covered  to  his 
feet  with  a wliite  net.  The  group  was  escorted  by  four  other 
horsemen  armed  wdth  paper  weapons  tt)  protect  the  dancers 
from  intrusion  by  passers-by. 

The  little  girls  wore  white  (h*esses,  pink  sashes,  pink  slippers 
with  lacings  of  pink  ribbons  extending  to  the  knees,  veils  of 
silver-tissue  paper  attached  to  crowns  of  roses  and  silver 
paper.  They  carried  in  their  belts  short  paper  swords,  and 
in  their  hands  semicircular  wreaths  of  flowers  and  ribbons 
large  enough  to  pass  over  their  heads.  The  cavaliers  wore 
white  sliirts,  pants  with  broad  red  stripes  on  the  outer  side  of 
them,  red  scarfs  around  their  waists,  red  handkerchiefs  about 


194 


CINTRA. 


195 


tlieii"  necks,  and  Portiignese  red  and  bine  caps.  They  had 
also  wreatlis  in  their  hands.  The  nioyenients  and  changes 
of  the  dance  were  chrectetl  wdtli  a whistle  l^y  the  major  domo, 
who  stood  at  the  head  of  his  horse.  There  was  the  standard- 
hearer  with  a flag,  who  took  an  important  part  in  the  dance. 
The  movements  of  the  dancers  were  slow  and  well  timed  vdth 
the  music,  and  graceful  beyond  anything  I have  seen  even 
at  a court  l^all.  One  of  the  changes  was  evidently  a love 
scene,  during  which  the  cavahers  pulled  from  tlieh  pock- 
ets white  handkerchiefs,  and  throwing  them  on  the  ground, 
chopped  each  upon  a knee,  facing  their  partners,  the  couples 
placing  wreaths  upon  one  another’s  necks  and  clasping  hands. 
Then  they  marched  away  two  by  two,  and  disappeared  down 
the  road.  They  departed  with  a light  dancing  step  timed  to 
the  music. 

We  visited  the  beautiful  cpiinta  of  Mr.  C.,  an  Englishman 
from  London,  who  has  an  income  of  liaLf  a million  a year. 
He  conies  to  Cintra  every  six  months  to  stay  a few  weeks. 
The  house  is  built  after  the  plan  of  a Moorish  palace.  It  is 
the  finest  residence  in  Portugal,  not  excepting  the  king’s 
palaces.  The  architectiue  inside  and  outside  is  entirely 
Moorish.  The  building  is  beautiful,  vdtli  its  marble  halls, 
fountains,  sculptured  cohunns  and  marble  lattice-work.  A 
part  of  the  furnitiue  is  the  tine  collection  of  Inchaii  work 
which  was  sent  to  London  for  exhibition  some  years  ago. 
For  one  table  $5000  was  paid,  and  all  the  other  pieces  were 
purchased  at  high  prices.  There  are  rich  Persian  carpets, 
rare  curios  from  Japan  and  China,  and  some  marble  win- 
dow screens  from  the  harem  of  the  palace  in  Agra,  India. 
There  is  also  a collection  of  rare  books,  and  many  works  of 
art,  bought  at  enormous  prices.  In  fact  everything  about 
this  place  is  palatial.  The  house  is  built  of  white  marble. 


196 


FBAGMENTAEY  LETTEKS. 


situated  in  a large  cork  forest,  and  lias  close  to  the  house 
acres  of  ground  laid  out  in  gardens  and  orange  and  lemon 
groves.  Ml*.  C.  clainis  to  have  trees  and  plants  from  every 
part  of  the  world.  He  employs  fifty  gardeners. 

We  have  lieen  to  Mafra,  an  insignificant  little  village  in 
which  is  the  largest  building  in  Portugal,  an  old  convent 
built  one  hundred  and  eighty  years  ago.  From  Ciiitra,  seven- 
teen miles  distant,  this  buiLhng  is  plainly  seen.  This  great 
pile  of  marble  and  stone  is  1150  feet  long,  350  feet  longer 
than  tlie  Capitol  at  Washington.  It  was  built  by  King  John 
V.  of  Portugal,  who  made  a vow  tliat  were  a son  horn  to 
him  he  would  l)uild  in  the  poorest  })art  of  the  kingdom  the 
largest  convent  ever  erected.  The  son  was  l)orn,  and  the 
convent  was  l)uilt.  Thirteen  years  were  spent  in  its  erec- 
tion. The  Imilding  contains  866  rooms,  5000  doors,  and  9 
courts.  Upon  the  roof  10,000  men  may  stand  at  one  time. 
When  the  basilica,  or  chapel,  was  consecrated,  on  the  king’s 
Inrthday,  he  ordered  refreshments  to  he  given  from  the 
kitchen  to  all  who  applied,  and  9000  persons  partook  of  his 
iKjspitality  that  day.  In  the  convent  is  a lil)rary  of  30,000 
])ooks. 

Cintra  is  a pictures(|ue,  ramljling  little  town,  apparently 
dropped  down  upon  the  eastern  sloj^e  of  the  .s*6'yrc,  or  mount- 
ain, nestling  among  vine-covered  trees,  lovely  gardens  and 
orange  groves.  It  overlooks  a plain  l)etween  the  mountain 
and  the  sea  six  to  eight  miles  in  width,  dotted  with  twenty- 
three  little  villages  and  scores  of  vineyards,  and  includes  a 
fine  view  of  the  Atlantic  ocean. 

The  steamers  passing  tlie  mouth  of  the  Tagus  are  plainly 
seen  from  any  part  of  the  Hllage.  Cintra  has  a popidation 
of  six  thousand.  It  is  the  only  convenient  Sunday  outing 
for  the  Lishonese,  a distance  of  seventeen  miles  over  a fine 
road  with  the  sea  in  view  nearly  all  the  way.  It  is  made 


CINTEA. 


197 


ill  two  and  a half  liours.  The  village  is  built  upon  over- 
hangiug  cragged  rocks,  and  terraced  plateaus  seemingly  cling- 
ing to  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  The  seaward  slope  of  the 
serra  is  laid  out  in  quintas  or  spacious  gardens  in  which 
stand  long-ago  built  villas,  and  there  are  frequent  thickets 
of  fine  old  forest  trees  overhung  with  moss,  ivy,  and  dower- 
ing vines,  intersi)ersed  with  small  groves  of  lemons  and  wild 
oranges.  Through  these  quintas  are  narrow  donkey-paths 
leading  all  over  the  mountains  where  one  is  sure  to  meet,  any 
day  in  the  week,  several  excursions  moimted  on  well-trained 
donkeys.  The  principal  highways  are  bordered  with  stone 
Wtdls  six  to  eight  feet  high,  many  of  which  were  built  more 
than  two  hundred  years  ago.  In  many  places  these  walls 
are  entirely  covered  with  running  vines  and  tufts  of  'Auld 
dowers.  For  long  distances  some  of  the  roads  are  l)orderetl 
with  wild  rose  geraniums  which  attain  a size  not  seen  even 
in  our  conservatories  at  home.  In  whatever  direction  we 
may  go  we  have  an  extended  view  of  the  ocean.  Southey, 
the  English  poet,  saw  Cintra  and  said  that  it  was  “ the  most 
I)lessed  spot  in  the  hahital)le  world.” 

Our  liotel  is  a curiosity  in  its  way.  It  is  kept  I)y  an  Eng- 
lish-Portuguese  family.  Oidy  one  room  in  the  house  is 
carpeted,  which  is  our  sitting-room.  We  do  not  miss  the 
carj)ets,  however,  for  the  white  and  ^vell-sci*ul.)l)ed  doors  are 
very  agreeal)le  in  this  warm  climate.  The  furniture  has  been 
in  service  for  the  greater  part  of  the  past  linmh'ed  years.  It 
was  in  this  room  that  Byiuii  wrote  the  lines  in  Childe 
Harold’s  pilgrimage  : 


Lo  ! Cintra’s  glorious  Eden  intervenes, 

In  variegated  maze  of  momit  and  glen ; 

All,  me ! what  hand  can  pencil  guide  or  jien, 
To  follow  half  on  which  the  eye  dilates  ! 


198 


FEAGMENTAKY  LETTEES. 


Byron  wrote  his  name  with  a diamond  on  a pane  of  glass 
in  the  window  which  commands  a view  of  the  sea.  The 
autograph  was  coveted  and  asked  for  by  every  tourist 
visiting  the  room,  until  a few  years  ago,  when  some  “irre- 
pressible ” traveler  took  the  pane  of  glass  from  the  window 
and  departed  with  it,  without  even  saying,  “ By  your  leave, 
madam.” 

You  enter  this  little  inn  by  a door- way  leading  three  or 
four  steps  down  into  what  appears  to  be  the  steward’s  room, 
but  which  is  in  reality  the  provision  room,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  guest’s  sitting-room  and  also  the  office  of  the  house. 
The  floor  is  frequently  bespread  with  chickens,  ducks,  and 
turkeys,  which  fiutter,  cackle,  quack,  and  gobble  in  vain 
attempts  to  release  their  legs  from  the  cords  which  hind  them 
while  the  mistress  of  the  inn  and  vender  are  earnestly  bar- 
gaining. There  also  baskets  of  eggs,  fruit,  and  cheese  remain 
until  their  sale  is  completed. 

This  is  a favorite  place  for  the  guests  of  the  house  to  find 
a comfortable  chair  after  a fatiguing  walk  or  donkey  ride, 
and  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  mail-hag  with  letters. 

There  is  no  end  of  curious  details  which  might  l)e  men- 
tioned respecting  the  inn.  The  cuisine  is  fairly  good ; the 
chef  (Tcenvre  of  the  kitchen  is  a pigeon  pie.  A good  break- 
fast and  dinner  may  he  had  here  every  day. 

The  Portuguese  mode  of  carrying  baggage  when  one  goes 
to  spend  a few  weeks  in  the  country  is  novel,  and  convenient 
to  say  the  least.  The  people  carry  all  their  effects  in  large 
calico  hags.  Two  persons  mil  each  have  two  large  bags.  It 
is  surprising  to  see  how  neatly  and  compactly  things  may  he 
packed  away  in  bags.  This  custom  has  its  real  merits.  The 
baggage  can  l)e  handled  most  conveniently  and  occupies  less 
space  in  a room. 


CINTKA. 


199 


Ciiitra  is  tlie  only  convenient  and  agreeable  suninier  resort 
for  the  Lisbonese.  Usually  the  diplomatic  corps  take  quintas 
in  Cintra  for  six  inontlis  in  the  year,  where  visiting  is  done 
with  much  less  forniahty  than  at  the  Capitol.  Donkeys  are 
the  ever-available  animals  on  which  to  ride  to  picnics  and  to 
places  in  the  country.  Ladies  are  transported  by  them  to 
afternoon  teas,  and  the  docile  animals  jog  along  at  a lively 
pace  when  urged  thereto  by  the  l)oys  behind  them  with 
switches. 


V 


Lishof). 


SBON,  Felmiary  23,  1883.  I have  seen  the  chapel  of  St. 


John  tlie  Baptist  in  tlie  chnrcli  of  San  Roch.  It  is  said 
to  he  the  ricliest  cathedral  cliapel  in  precious  stones,  tine 
marbles,  and  silver-work,  (,)iitside  of  St.  Peter’s  at  Rome.  It 
is  not  more  than  sixteen  feet  square.  In  its  consti'uc- 
tion  malachite,  alabaster,  coral,  amethyst,  lapis  lazuli,  verde 
antique,  porphyry,  and  other  valuable  stones  were  used. 
There  are  eight  columns,  fourteen  feet  high,  of  solid  lapis 
lazuli,  and  others  of  amethyst.  The  altar  is  made  of  coral, 
malachite,  and  amethyst.  The  doors  are  antique  bronze. 
The  candlesticks  are  solid  silver  hea^dly  gilded.  The  two 
largest  are  ten  feet  high.  There  are  also  three  solid  silver 
lamps,  each  eight  feet  high,  suspended  from  the  ceiling.  The 
curtains  or  portieres  are  of  cloth  of  gold,  embroidered  with 
gold  thi*ead ; the  embroidery  was  done  in  1744,  and  is  just  as 
fresh  and  bright  as  when  new.  The  chapel  was  constructed 
in  Rome,  consecrated  by  the  pope,  and  then  brought  to  Lis- 
bon. To  compensate  tlie  pope  for  his  serwce,  King  John 
gave  him  £10,000  sterling. 

There  are  three  small  mosaic  pictimes  the  inlaying  of  which 
required  the  labor  of  an  artisan  for  fifteen  years.  The 


200 


LISBON. 


201 


lii story  of  tlie  liiulding  of  tlie  chapel  is  tlie  following : King 
fJolni  V.  once  asked  to  he  shown  the  hnest  cha])el  in  Lisbon. 
He  was  conducted  to  tlie  chapel  of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  The 
king  said  that  inasinnch  as  it  bore  tliat  name,  lie  would 
henceforward  take  it  under  Ids  own  care.  He  then  liegai] 
its  renovation  and  ornanientation,  the  expense  of  which 
was  not  less  than  h20(),()00  sterling. 

Lislion,  March  12,  1883.  Yesterday  we  went  on  hoard  the 
the  liag-shi])  of  the  English  tleet  of  five  large  war- 
vessels  at  anclior  in  the  Tagns.  We  acceiited  the  admiral’s 
invitation  to  take  tea  on  hoard.  It  is  the  largest  sliip  I ever 
saw,  except  the  Great  Eastern.  It  has  a tonnage  of  11,000, 
('arries  1000  men,  and  has  5 masts.  One  walks  a mile  liy 
going  seven  times  around  the  deck.  We  enjoyed  the  music 
of  the  liand,  and  were  nincli  pleased  with  the  review  of  the 
well-drilled  marines. 

Yon  will  donlitless  smile  when  I tell  yon  that  1 often  see 
yom*  father’s  name  in  the  Portuguese  papers,  printed  “ O 
Senhor,  John  Maria  Francis.”  Maria  is  a favorite  middle 
name  for  men  and  women. 

Think  of  tlie  cheapness  of  dowers  here.  A large  hniicli  of 
roses  sell  for  six  cents,  as  many  pansies  for  the  same  sniii, 
and  heliotropes  almost  without  price.  Camellias  grow  on  trees 
as  large  as  apple-trees,  and  are  to  he  liad  tor  the  picking. 
A flasket  of  thudy  magnidcent  camellias  emhedded  in  due 
ferns  was  sent  me  by  Senhora  S.,  a Brazilian  lady.  Figs  and 
oranges  are  olitainalile  in  great  quantities ; due  oranges  can 
he  purchased  from  the  street-venders  for  four  hundred  reis, 
or  forty  cents,  a hundred,  and  a peck  of  dgs  costs  no  more. 

We  made  an  exciu’sion  to  Eetnhal,  the  fourth  largest  city  in 
Portugal,  about  three  hoiu*s  distant  from  Lisbon,  to  pay  a 


26 


202 


FKAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


visit  to  tlie  United  States  vice-consul,  a Portngiiese-Irishman. 
Mr.  O’N.  and  liis  Ijrotlier  in  Lisbon  are  vice-consuls  for  ten 
countries.  The  vice-consid’s  costume  is  purely  Portuguese. 
It  comprises  a jacket  of  light-ljrown  cloth  braided  with 
black  cord,  with  six  large  silver  hooks,  and  dangling  chains, 
an  open  waistcoat,  a half-dozen  large  gold  shirt-buttons,  a 
long  and  heavy  gold  chain  around  the  neck  extending  below 
the  waist,  trousers  to  match  the  jacket,  a Idack  silk  waist- 
scarf,  and  a l)r(.)ad-]jrininied  black  felt  bat  with  the  edge 
rolled  u|)  all  around,  and  a l)lack  silk  pompon  upon  one  side. 

We  were  met  at  tlie  station  by  the  vice-consul,  who 
escorted  us  to  his  quinta,  where  an  elaborate  l>reakfast  was 
S]U‘ead.  We  had  a charming  little  trip  on  his  steam  yacht 
on  wliicli  lunch  was  served.  We  returned  in  the  evening, 
with  gifts  of  oranges  and  flowers,  delighted  wdth  our  trip  to 
8t.  TTbes,  as  the  sailors  naine  Setubal. 

Lisbon,  March  15,  1888.  There  is  a large  kindergarten 
school  in  Lisbon.  The  building  is  situated  in  the  Estrella 
Garden,  one  of  the  l)eautiful  public  parks  of  the  city.  Archi- 
tecturally the  structure  is  an  ornament  to  the  park.  It  has 
accommodation  tor  two  hundred  children,  and  is  (hwded 
into  tour  rooms,  with  fifty  chairs  and  tables  in  each  room. 
It  is  a free  school,  maintained  l>y  the  nmnicipahty,  and 
is  fltted  with  all  requisite  apparatus  for  oral  instruction. 
The  children  enter  the  rooins  at  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
two  l)y  two,  singing  witli  the  accompaniment  of  a piano. 
At  three  p.  m.  the  servants  or  mothers  come  and  take 
the  children  home.  Neither  reading  nor  writing  is  taught. 
Geography  and  physical  history  are  taught  in  one  room 
l)y  the  aid  of  maps  and  globes;  in  another,  simple  mathe- 
matical instruction  is  given ; in  a third,  singing  and  bot- 


LISBON. 


208 


any  are  taught,  and  in  a fourth  natural  history  and  simple 
philosophy. 

1 must  tell  you  of  a very  practical  method  of  serving  light 
suppers  at  soirees,  called l)y  foreigners  “tooth-pick  su|)pers.” 
The  tooth-picks  are  made  of  orange-wood,  which  has  a very 
line  filler  of  a creamy  color  and  takes  a high  polish.  They 
are  a trifle  larger  than  the  ordinary  tooth-picks.  ( )ne  end  of 
the  tooth-pick  is  ornamented  by  being  feathered  or  cut  into 
some  pretty  design.  With  a little  experience  one  can  handle 
them  just  as  well  as  forks,  which  they  substitute.  The 
sandwiches,  croquets,  and  sugared  fruits,  with  an  orna- 
mented tooth-pick  inserted  in  each  one,  nicely  arranged  on 
trays,  make  a very  effective  display. 

The  manufacture  of  ordinary  tooth-picks  is  one  of  the 
industries  of  this  country;  they  are  shipped  in  great  quanti- 
ties to  different  places  in  Europe  and  America.  Not  long- 
ago  an  order  tor  a million  was  received  from  the  United 
States. 


Lisbon,  April  20,  1883.  “ The  rose-leaf  procession  and 

fete  of  health,”  took  place  to-day.  The  host  was  carried  in 
solemn  procession,  preceded  by  several  liands  of  music  and 
followed  by  a decorous  line  of  men  and  women.  The  host 
was  home  on  a crimson  velvet  platform  by  priests,  while 
others  following  threw  rose-leaves  over  it  as  they  passed 
through  the  streets.  This  fete  celebrates  the  anniversary  of 
the  day  on  which  the  dreadful  plague  of  yellow  fever  of  fifty 
years  ago  ceased.  Tlie  procession  was  a beautiful  spectacle 
and  long  to  be  remembered. 

During  the  seven  montlis  of  onr  residence  in  Lislion,  I 
have  not  been  a single  day  without  flowers ; our  salon  has 
been  continually  decorated  with  them.  Tlie  balconies  at 


204 


FEAGIVIENTAKY  LETTEES. 


our  windows  are  always  filled  with  flowering  plants,  and 
have  l)een  during  the  winter;  indeed  they  are  reall}^  very 
attractive  little  parten*es. 

The  great  social  sensation  of  the  season  has  just  taken 
place.  It  was  a theatrical  party  given  l)y  the  Duchess  of  P. 
in  her  city  palace.  The  reju'esentation  was  “ the  Marquise 
de  A'illeniehr,”  a foui’-act  play  rendered  in  French.  The 
pa]*ts  were  taken  hy  aniatenrs  in  the  nohility  cu’cle.  The 
duchess  had  a pawhon  erected  in  the  garden  adjoining  the 
dining-rooin  of  the  palace  into  which  it  opened  l>y  several 
windows  extending  from  the  floor  to  the  ceihng,  forming  a 
very  good  aiuhence-room.  A tier  of  boxes  were  raised  oppo- 
site the  platform,  and  the  remainder  of  the  room  was  hlled 
vdth  chairs.  Upon  the  backs  of  the  chairs  honqnets  were 
attached  for  those  occupying  the  seats  l)ehind  them,  which 
were  reserved  until  the  end  of  the  last  act  when  a shower  of 
flowers  fell  upon  tlie  stage.  During  the  PDfr'acte.s,  confec- 
tionery, tea,  and  iced  beverages  were  served.  After  the 
play  more  substantial  refreshments  were  offered.  Dancing 
followed  and  continued  until  four  o’clock  in  the  morning, 
when  an  elaborate  supper  appeared  as  if  Ijy  magic  in  the 
l)all-rooni  and  salons.  Tliis  transformation  occuri'ed  at  a 
moment  when  all  the  guests  wei*e  intently  engaged  by  the 
music  of  the  orchestra,  but  which  ceased  at  a given  signal, 
and  the  simprised  party  were  invited  to  seat  themselves  at 
the  tefe-d-fete  taldes  which  had  been  quietly  brought  in. 
The  entertaimnent  was  a brilliant  success.  At  five  o’clock, 
before  the  supjDer  had  ended,  we  went  home  in  broad  day- 
light. 

On  another  occasion  the  duchess  gave  a concert  and  ball, 
hamiig  sent  to  Hungary  for  a Hungarian  orchestra.  This, 
too,  v/as  a most  charming  entertainment. 


LISBON. 


205 


Lisbon,  April  23,  1883.  Yesterday  we  made  a delightful 
excursion  to  Saeaveui,  a little  village  of  an  hour’s  drive  from 
the  city,  to  visit  Mr.  H.’s  pottery  and  earthen  ware  fahriea. 
Oiu*  way  led  through  orange  and  olive  groves  and  wlieat- 
helds.  There  are  one  hundred  and  hfty  lueii,  women,  and 
children  employed  in  this  industry,  the  largest  of  its  kind  in 
Portugal.  Wc  saw  the  process  of  making  tal)le-ware,  begin- 
ning with  the  mixture  of  the  clay  and  ending  with  the  deco- 
ration and  leaking  of  the  ware.  After  lunch  had  been  served 
in  an  adjoining  Imilding,  we  were  invited  into  the  large  ware- 
room,  where  a liand  of  twenty  musicians  played  some  excel- 
lent selections  of  old  Portuguese  music,  ending  with  one  of 
our  ovm  national  airs.  The  men  handled  their  instrnments 
with  ease  and  grace,  notwithstanding  they  came  directly 
from  their  work-benches,  with  their  sleeves  rolled  up  and 
aprons  tmaied  liack,  and  their  faces  and  hands  l)earing  traces 
of  the  clay.  His  Majesty  Doni  Fernando  and  liis  wife,  the 
Countess  Edla,  paint  very  nicely  on  porcelain,  which  is  leaked 
at  this  x)ottery.  His  Majesty  Dorn  Fernando  contributes 
ten  milreis  a month  to  its  mnsic-fnnd. 


VI 


Cilifra.  Tlte  Palacio  da  Pena. 


INTEA,  July  1,  1883.  Tlie  siinimer  is  passing  delightfully 


in  this  interesting  and  picturesque  place.  The  days  are 
very  warm,  but  the  nights  are  cooled  liy  the  sea-hreezes.  We 
have  the  open  sea  in  full  view  from  our  windows,  and  often 
see  steamers  near  the  coast.  I have  already  told  you  of  the 
comfort  and  simplicity  of  this  little  Portuguese  inn  in  which 
we  are  li\hng.  The  entire  value  of  the  furniture  in  the  house 
witli  its  thirty  small  bedrooms  would  not  equal  that  of  your 
drawing-room.  I do  not  l)eheve  there  is  a looking-glass  in 
the  house  more  than  two  feet  long. 

A simimons  or  call  for  servants,  peculiar  to  this  country 
and  observable  everywhere,  is  given  by  clapping  the  bands 
and  making  a hissing  sound  between  the  tongue  and  the 
teeth.  This  summons  sul)stitutes  the  use  of  bells  generally  in 
houses.  The  coachman  heeds  this  call  as  well  as  the  waiter 
and  housemaid.  The  gaUe<jos.i  who  are  the  water-carriers 
and  street-messengers,  and  who  have  their  stands  on  the 
street-corners,  look  anxiously  at  the  vdiidows  and  doors, 
eager  to  hear  the  summons  for  their  seiudce.  The  passing 
fruit  and  fish  venders  recognize  the  well-known  call;  in 
fact,  it  pervades  every  branch  of  service  in  the  country. 


206 


PALACIO  DA  PENA. 

The  palace  of  His  Majesty  D.  Fernando  Cintra. 


I 


/ 


THE  PAEACIO  DA  PENA. 


207 


After  live  o’clock  in  the  cifternoon  scores  of  donkeys  may 
be  seen  jogging  along  the  dusty  roads  carrying  on  green,  hlne, 
or  crimson  plush  saddles  ladies  going  to  tea  visits,  or  to  make 
calls  of  etiquette.  The  donkeys  are  (Mven  hj  boys  and 
gu*ls,  who  keep  the  animals  in  the  road  and  from  stopping 
to  nibble  grass  along  the  roadside  by  twisting  their  tails 
opportunely.  The  ladies  wear  hroad-hrimmed  sun-hats  and 
carry  bright-colored  umhrellas.  This  mode  of  going  aljout  is 
very  convenient  and  inexpensive.  The  ser\dces  of  a donkey 
and  a driver  may  he  had  for  a milrei  (equal  in  value  to 
one  dollar  in  om*  money)  a day,  allowing  the  driver  his 
usual  rations  of  bread  and  wine,  and  the  donkey  a few  tufts 
of  thistles. 

The  Palacio  da  Pena,  for  many  years  the  country-seat  of 
His  Majesty  Dom  Fernando,  overlooks  Cintra  from  the  high- 
est peak  of  the  serra,  and  is  the  most  conspicuous  object  in 
Cintra.  This  tine  old  castle  was  originally  a convent  built  by 
Dom  Manuel  for  the  monks  of  the  Jeronymite  Convent  just 
out  of  Lisbon,  who  often  climbed  to  this  high  point  before 
the  convent  was  built  to  see  if  he  could  discover  anything 
of  the  returning  fleet  of  Vasco  da  (rania,  who  had  been  sent 
out  in  the  year  1497  on  a cruise  of  discovery.  And,  in  fact, 
he  was  the  flrst  to  descry,  two  years  later,  from  this  point 
the  returning  ships  of  the  fleet  coming  into  the  mouth  of 
the  Tagus.  The  architecture  of  this  castle  is  Norman 
(Totliic.  Fifty  acres  of  the  surrounding  grounds  are  laid 
out  in  gardens  with  flsh-ponds  and  ornamental  fountains, 
including  a forest  of  camellias  of  all  colors  which  is  the 
particular  pride  of  the  royal  owner. 

[A  hiatus  in  correspondence  of  more  than  three  months 
occurs  between  the  dates  of  July  1 and  October  17, 1883,  the 


208 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


writer  going  to  England  to  meet  her  daughter  and  family, 
who  had  come  from  the  United  States  to  enjoy  a family 
reunion  on  English  soil.] 

Cintra,  Octoher  17,  1883.  A year  ago  I wrote  you  about 
the  queen’s  hall  at  Cascaes  ; yesterday  was  her  birthday,  and 
its  anniversary  was  again  celebrated  by  a l)all  at  the  same 
place.  A description  of  the  last  one  would  only  be  a repeti- 
tion of  the  account  given  of  the  former. 

Yon  must  have  arrived  at  New  Yoi'k  yesterday.  We  talked 
of  yon  daily,  while  out  at  sea  on  the  Oreijon,  and  naturally 
had  some  anxiety  resijecting  yon  aboard  the  steamer  making 
her  first  voyage  across  tlie  Atlantic.  We  expect  to  find  the 
annonncement  of  the  Orefioti'n  amval  in  the  papers  to-mor- 
row, at  the  latest. 


vn 


Lhlxni.  Tlte  qui]ita  Ahelheira.  Tli<uika<jiviu(i  Dan. 
SBON,  November  18,  1883.  Last  week  we  passed  several 


(lays  at  Abellieira,  a very  large  and  l)eautifully  situated 
quinta  belonging  to  Col.  C.,  a retired  Englisli  army  officer. 
AVe  were  most  liospitaljly  received  and  were  delighted  witli 
the  attractive  features  of  this  charming  English  home.  The 
daily  routine  of  its  life  is  regulated  to  some  extent  by  the 
clock  and  l)ell  of  the  inner  court.  Two  l)ells,  striking  a half- 
hour  apart,  announce  l)reakfast  and  (hnner.  The  early 
coffee  is  served  to  guests  in  their  own  rooms.  Two  bells 
striking  hve  minutes  apart  designate  the  hour  tor  morning 
prayers,  to  which  guests  and  tlieir  servants  are  in\dted.  The 
three  lovely  little  children  with  their  nurses  and  governesses 
are  called  l>y  a large  bell  to  Ijreakfast  at  8:30  o’clock,  and  to 
dinner  at  two  o’clock.  The  elders  of  the  family  breakfast 
at  eleven  o’clock,  and  (.hue  at  seven  in  the  evening.  At  four 
o’(dock  in  the  afternoon,  tea,  bread  and  Ijutter  are  served 
in  one  of  the  pavilions  in  the  garden.  At  ten  p.  m.  the  ontei* 
gates  and  house  doors  are  closed  tor  the  night. 

The  estate  embraces  two  hundred  acres  of  land  partly 
covered  vdth  orange  and  olive  groves.  An  ordinary  crop 
of  oranges  is  worth  $3000.  There  is  a great  variety  of 
tropical  fruits  grown  on  the  place.  The  house  was  built 
for  a convent  one  hundred  and  hfty  years  ago.  It  sur- 


209 


210 


FKAGMENTAKY  LETTEE8. 


i‘omi(Is  a quadrangular  court.  Upon  one  side  is  the  chapel 
as  it  was  originally  constructed.  At  certain  times  in  the 
year  Roinaii  Catholic  Church  services  are  permitted  to  be 
held  in  it.  The  guest-chamhers  are  on  one  side  of  the  huild- 
ing,  and  the  apartments  on  the  two  other  sides  are  occupied 
by  the  family.  The  grand  dining-room  is  about  sixty  feet 
long  by  twenty-hve  wide.  It  has  a groined  ceiling  and  is 
tuniished  with  massive  old  furniture,  and  a great  deal  of 
silver  plate.  Froin  it  one  passes  to  a beautiful  lawn  brilliant 
with  dowers  and  planted  with  many  rare  trees  and  blossom- 
ing shrnds.  The  house  is  covered  with  climhing  rose-l)ushes 
in  perpetual  Ijlooni,  and  other  l)eautiful  dowering  vines. 
For  many  months  I have  l)een  the  delighted  recipient  of 
dowers  sent  me  by  Mrs.  C.  The  house  contains  niucli  of 
the  original  furniture,  which  is  very  interesting  to  study. 
This  property,  like  that  of  many  other  of  the  old  convents, 
came  into  secular  hands  at  the  time  of  the  partial  disestah- 
lishnient  of  the  Homan  Catholic  Church. 

Lisl)ou,  November  30.  Yesterday  was  our  national  Thanks- 
giving Day,  which  we  celebrated  by  giving  a l)reakfast  to  our 
American  friends  and  several  Englisli  and  Portuguese  guests. 
It  has  not  l)een  the  custom  of  tlie  American  legation  at  Lis- 
1)011  to  oliserve  the  day,  hut  we  instituted  a precedent  last 
year,  and  we  hope  it  may  be  followed.  We  were  twenty-four 
persons  at  table.  Several  poor  American  sailors,  who  had 
evidently  “ lost  their  way  ” by  their  own  misdeeds,  were  asked 
liy  ns  to  partake  of  a good,  sulistantial  dinner  in  the  kitchen 
of  our  hotel,  and  they  undoubtedly  felt  more  keenly  than  did 
our  guests  the  literal  meaning  of  the  word  thanksgiving. 

All  lieing  seated  at  the  table,  your  father  arose  and  read  the 
President’s  Thanksgiving  Proclamation,  and  briefly  explained 


LISBON. 


211 


its  observance  in  onr  country.  Siiitalile  toasts  were  given 
by  two  or  three  of  onr  Portuguese  friends,  which  were 
fehcitonsly  responded  to  by  some  of  the  Americans. 

The  C.’s  sent  us  from  Alielheira  a large  quantity  of  tea- 
roses,  heliotropes,  and  geraniums  to  embellish  onr  rooms  and 
talile  on  Thanksgiving  Day. 

Lislion,  Decendier  11,  1888.  A cold  wave  from  tlie  north 
lias  chilled  the  atmosphere  for  the  past  three  days,  and  to-day 
the  mercury  has  fallen  to  54°  Fahrenheit.  There  lieing  no 
place  for  fire  in  our  apartment,  1 asked  our  landlady  how  we 
could  keep  warm.  She  answered : “ Light  your  lamx)s  and 
gas ; put  on  your  cloak  and  gloves,  and  if  you  are  not  then 
wami  enough,  go  out  and  take  a long  walk.” 

Tlie  httle  street  children  are  objects  of  my  sincere  pity 
these  cold  days.  1 see  them  running  about  the  streets  and 
lanes  with  only  the  covering  of  a thin  shirt,  their  legs  and 
arms  being  bare.  Those  of  the  higher  classes  are  only  clad 
from  their  shoulders  to  their  knees,  their  anus  and  legs  also 
being  bare.  The  theory  prevails  here  that  the  exposure  of 
tlie  extremities  toughens  the  child,  provided  the  region  of  the 
lieart  and  stomach  is  covered  with  warm  clothing ; that,  they 
say,  is  sufficient  to  insure  health.  However,  on  any  day  in 
tlie  year  in  the  poor  (hstricts,  may  be  seen  (diildren  from  a 
few  months  old  until  they  can  walk,  rolling  aliout  on  the  side- 
walks with  sometimes  hardly  as  much  as  a thin  shirt  to  cover 
them,  but  whose  sunny  and  dirty  little  faces  indicate  that  this 
exposure  is  no  hardship  to  them.  It  is  certain  that  the  native 
children  endure  well  this  treatment,  for  tlie  Portuguese  are 
a hardy  race. 

Apropos  to  the  little  side-walk  rollers  just  mentioned,  they 
become  naturally  the  street  gamin  at  a very  early  age,  and  in 


212 


FKAGMENTAHY  LETTEES. 


many  instances  commence  their  vocation  of  l)egging  as  soon 
as  they  can  walk.  A very  amusing  incident  occruTed  the  other 
day  as  we  were  drhdng  in  the  country.  We  stopped  at  a little 
wine-shop  to  give  the  horses  the  expected  rations  of  bread 
soaked  in  wine,  which  they  won’t  allow  the  coachman  to  for- 
get, and  while  waiting,  a jolly  little  brigade  of  almost  naked 
children,  six  and  seven  years  old  street  l)eggars,  approached 
the  carriage  and  held  out  their  dirty  hands,  asking  for  money. 
We  gave  the  usual  negative  shake  of  the  head,  hut  that  did 
not  satisfy  them.  A little  girl,  with  only  a scrap  of  a petticoat 
upon  her,  stepped  neai'er,  and  said  in  her  native  tongue,  “You 
say,  sir,  you  have  no  money,  Init  you  have  your  mouth  full  of 
gold,  for  I can  see  it  when  you  laugh,  and  that  is  just  as  good 
as  money.”  The  gentleman  in  question  disclosed  to  the  little 
girl’s  \dew,  while  in  conversation,  the  plate  of  gold  upon  which 
some  teeth  were  set.  The  money  was  forthcoming ; she  did 
not  make  a second  appeal.  The  children  all  ran  off  together 
to  the  master  of  the  wine-shop  to  get  the  money  divided 
equally  among  them,  this  l)eing  the  custom  of  the  beggars  in 
this  country. 

Besides  the  cold  wave  we  are  also  hawng  the  most  wonder- 
fully brilliant  sunsets  and  suiu'ises  ever  seen  here.  For  two 
hours  after  sunset  the  reflected  hgiit  tinges  the  heavens  and 
waters  and  everything  l)etween  them  with  a bright  red  color, 
which  fades  into  a pale  yellow.  The  sky  l)efore  sunrise  is 
suffused  wdth  a deep  red  glow,  which  gradually  pales  into  the 
l)lue  color  of  the  tirmament.  We  have  read  in  the  newspapers 
that  this  unusual  and  long-continued  brilliancy  of  the  sky 
before  sunrise  and  after  sunset  has  been  \dsihle  in  different 
parts  of  the  world.  It  has  given  rise  to  considerable  specu- 
lation, and  many  opinions  have  been  advanced  both  by  scien- 
tific men  and  by  superstitious  persons. 


LISBON. 


213 


Among  the  agreeable  English  people  who  are  met  in  the 
diplomatic  circle  and  in  the  society  of  the  nolnlity  in  Lis- 
bon, are  Mr.  B.,  the  Englisli  consul  at  this  capital,  his  wife, 
daughter,  and  son. 

Lisbon,  December  16,  1883.  The  cold  wave  of  last  week 
has  disap])eared,  sparing  our  fruits  and  bowers  from  its  icy 
lireath,  and  we  are  again  enjoying  the  usual  lialniy  atmos- 
phere of  this  latitude.  The  luilliant  skies  at  dawn  and  sun- 
set still  continue. 

The  Americans  in  Lislioii,  although  limited  to  the  members 
of  a half-dozen  families,  include  some  most  agreealile  peo- 
ple, among  whom  are  Mr.  and  Mrs.  A.,  for  many  years  resi- 
dents of  this  city,  who  give  delightful  dancing  and  musical 
entertainments,  and  are  well  known  for  their  gracious  hospi- 
tality to  many  of  the  officers  of  the  American  navy  when  their 
vessels  lay  at  anchor  in  the  Tagus.  Then  we  have  the  agree- 
able society  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  A.,  who  also  have  resided  here  for 
many  years,  and  who  always  have  an  open  house  and  a warm 
welcome  for  their  friends.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  also  receive  with 
a liearty  cordiality  all  who  are  fortunate  enough  to  lie  enter- 
tained by  them  at  their  residence  on  Rua  Nova  de  S.  Francisco 
de  Paulo. 


VIII 


Earfh</italr  and  Cnntival  in  Lisiton. 

IisBON,  l)eceml)er  21,  1883.  Yesterday  the  kiiif?  lield  a 
J court  rece])tion  to  present  his  oldest  son,  Doin  Carlos, 
prince  hereditary,  to  the  diplomatic  corps,  on  his  return  from 
a seven  months’  tour  on  the  continent.  The  queen  was  not 
present  at  the  reception,  nor  did  the  ladies  attend  it.  The 
prince  is  a very  cultivated  young’  man  of  twenty  years  of 
age.  He  spe^d^s  live  languages.  The  people  look  upon  the 
young  prince  as  their  future  king. 

jM other  Earth  seemed  to  have  a tremor  of  excitement  on 
the  night  of  his  return  to  Poilugal ; there  was  a very  per- 
ceptil)le  earthciuake,  the  severest  that  has  happened  in  the 
past  twenty-live  years.  1 have  only  heard  of  two  persons 
in  Lisbon  sleeping  through  the  excitement  of  the  night,  His 
iVlajesty  Doni  Fernando  and  your  father.  And  I must  con- 
fess that  1 was  awakened  only  l)y  the  last  tremor.  It  oc- 
curred al)out  three  o’clock  in  the  moiming,  and  lasted  twelve 
seconds.  All  that  I heard  of  it  was  that  which  seemed  to 
me  to  l)e  the  rumhling  of  a heavily  loaded  cart  passing  along 
the  street.  1 thought  it  was  strange  for  such  a vehicle  to  he 
on  the  street  at  night,  although  I had  felt  my  little  iron 
bedstead  swayed  with  the  oscillation.  However,  1 soon 

214 


EAETHQUAKE  AND  CARNIVAL  IN  LISBON. 


215 


forgot  the  distinliance  mikI  fell  asleep  again,  tii  the  morn- 
ing papers  we  read  of  the  eartlnpiake,  and  only  then  were 
we  convinced  that  thei*e  had  lieeii  one.  During  the  day  we 
saw  ill  many  parts  of  the  city  evidences  of  its  severity. 

The  shock  was  most  perceptilile  at  elevated  places  in  the 
city,  particularly  in  the  Buenos  Ayres  district,  wliere  vdde 
ci‘acks  were  made  in  walls  of  houses,  and  in  some  instances 
pieces  of  the  ceilings  had  fallen.  Many  citizens  remained 
in  the  .streets  until  the  dawn  of  day  expecting  other  shocks 
to  follow,  lint  which  fortnnately  did  not.  Tins  eartlajuake 
caused  consideralile  alarm,  for  the  dreadful  disaster  of  1755 
has  not  been  forgotten.  A gentleman  told  ns  this  morning 
that  his  horses  made  so  much  disturbance  in  the  stable 
some  time  before  the  shock  that  the  stahleman  went  to  see 
what  the  matter  was,  hut  he  was  not  long  in  perceiving  the 
cause,  for  the  shock  occurred  while  he  was  in  the  stalile.  It 
is  said  that  animals  have  a premonition  of  an  earthquake 
before  it  is  felt  by  man. 

This  is  the  season  of  the  turkey  market.  The  turkeys  are 
driven  in  nnmhers  of  a hundred  “bills”  through  the  streets 
by  old  women  and  barefooted  children.  At  tlie  well-known 
cry  of  the  venders,  “ Who  wants  to  liny  a turkey,”  ('ooks  hurry 
to  the  street  to  make  selections,  and  ladies  in  carriages  out 
on  the  promenade  order  the  tui'key-drivers  to  pass  tlieir 
houses  and  leave  there  so  many  “ liills.”  After  the  day’s 
market  is  over,  those  not  sold  are  herded  in  yards  within  the 
city  gates  for  tlie  night,  and  another  ])eregrination  begins 
the  next  day  with,  additions  to  the  flocks. 

We  are  having  lovely  summer  weather,  and  I am  thinking 
of  my  ice-surrounded  friends,  and  the  zero  temperature  at 
home.  If  wishes  had  wings  and  prompt  fnlflllment  yon  all 
would  be  here  with  ns  in  these  bright  and  lieantifnl  days! 


216 


FKAGMENTAKY  LETTEES. 


Lisl)Oii,  January  2,  1884.  Yesterday  the  king  held  the 
usual  New  Year’s  court  reception  at  the  Ajuda  Palace. 
The  queen  did  not  receive,  and  consequently  ladies  did  not 
attend  it. 

The  winter  until  yesterday  liad  l)een  very  dry,  and  fears 
had  been  entertained  that  the  crops  would  suffer.  During 
Christnias-week  prayers  for  rain  were  daily  offered  in  the 
churches,  and  the  drought  has  come  to  an  end.  At  the 
dawn  of  New  Year’s  Day  came  a heavy  rain-storm,  sending 
rivers  of  water  rushing  down  the  hills.  The  little  cactus 
jungle  opposite  our  windows  lias  gratefully  received  the  rain 
and  the  delicate  chalices  of  the  ]dants  are  brimming  with 
sparkling  water,  and  numerous  beautiful  yellow  and  pink 
Imds  have  appeared  on  the  green  tijis  of  the  tender  stems. 

You  cannot  imagine  the  pleasure  1 derive  from  my  little 
gallery  of  home  photographs,  as  they  are  grouped  around  on 
my  writing-table.  When  my  eyes  rest  upon  the  well-known 
faces  lief  ore  me  1 can  scarcely  realize  that  the  distance  of 
four  thousand  miles  separates  me  from  the  pictui'ed  jiersons. 

Lislion,  February  27,  1884.  The  month  of  court  mourning, 
which  occurred  in  the  carnival  season,  is  hnished,  and  the 
usual  amusements  and  soirees  have  been  resumed.  Yesterday 
the  carnival  ended.  We  passed  the  afternoon  at  the  house 
of  a friend  on  the  Cliiado — the  Broadway  of  Lisbon — where 
we  remained  on  the  balcony  three  houi's  to  observe  the 
closing  scenes.  Having  seen  sometbing  of  carnival  spectacles 
in  Athens,  you  will  be  al  >le  to  appreciate  an  account  of  those 
of  the  last  day  of  this  one. 

Eacli  successive  year  exhil)its  some  new  and  pretty  caprice, 
while  some  of  the  old  and  al)surd  practices  are  repeated. 
( )ne  of  the  al)surd  amusements  this  year  was  throwing  flour 


EARTHQUAKE  AND  CAENIVAE  IN  LISBON. 


217 


at  each  other ; those  engaging  in  this  sport  protect  their  heads 
with  caps  drawn  tightly  over  them,  don  clothing  whicii  can 
he  washed,  and  remove  the  furniture  to  closed  rooms.  But 
no  one  can  avoid  the  play  of  the  hisna(/as,  or  small  syringes, 
through  which  is  ejected  perfumed  water.  Children  fre- 
quently salute  their  parents  in  the  early  morning  with  a 
sprinkling  from  their  hisnagas. 

In  the  house  opposite  us  there  were  a dozen  men  and 
women  covered  with  flour  from  their  heads  to  their  feet. 
Long  l»efore  six  o’clock,  the  hour  of  terminating  the  carni- 
val, these  people  were  ghostly  white  and  moved  about  in 
clouds  of  flying  flour.  Small  paper  l)ags  containing  flour  are 
often  thrown  upon  the  people  passing  in  the  streets,  and 
others  hurled  across  at  those  seated  or  standing  at  the  win- 
dows of  the  opposite  houses.  Persons  thus  assailed  have 
no  other  redress  than  that  of  retnrn-peltings.  Everything 
is  considered  as  “fair  }day”  during  the  last  day  of  carnival. 

Small  liags  of  l)eans  and  corn  are  thrown  into  carriages  as 
disguised  accjuaintances  are  discovered  passing  each  other 
in  the  streets.  I saw  a peck  of  beans  showered  upon  the 
crowd  beneath  the  lialcony  of  the  house  across  the  street. 
Sacks  of  small  squares  of  colored  paper,  cut  very  flne  by 
machinery,  are  often  dropped  upon  the  heads  of  the  passers- 
l>y,  making  as  they  flutter  about  pretty  effects.  Another 
pretty  spectacle  are  showers  of  silver  and  gilt  tinsel  paper, 
cut  in  small  pieces  and  sent  down  from  the  roofs  of  the 
houses  and  which  are  wafted  about  on  the  Chiado  in  the 
l>right  sunliglit  l)y  the  breezes  and  lighting  here  and  there 
upon  the  merry  crowd  below,  like  so  many  fallen  gold  and 
silver  stars.  Nosegays  with  mottoes  or  hiJJets  doux  hidden 
in  among  the  flowers  are  also  throvm  at  recognized  friends. 
Another  cunning  device  for  carnival  sport  are  small  halls 


28 


218 


FRAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


made  of  tiiie-cut  white  paper  saturated  with  perfumed 
water,  and  used  as  carnival  missiles  and  hurled  at  each 
other ; these  l)alls  explode  as  they  strike,  and  the  wet  paper 
dies  apart  and  sticks  fast  on  whomever  it  falls. 

During  the  last  three  hours  of  the  carnival  everybody 
gets  wild  with  excitement,  and  consequently  great  liberty  is 
allowed.  Nolmdy  takes  offense  at  anything,  knowing  well 
that  the  only  way  to  escape  the  inconveniences  of  carnival 
sports  is  to  remain  at  home.  Naturally,  however,  every- 
body wants  to  see  the  sport,  and  of  course  are  assailed  where- 
ever  they  go.  Not  only  do  the  people  of  the  lowei-  classes 
imrticipate  in  these  contentions,  hut  ladies  and  gentlemen 
in  the  highest  society  disguise  and  mask  themselves  and 
join  the  wild  throng  in  the  Chiado.  Often  entire  families 
give  way  to  the  carnival  “ craze,’’  and  go  along  the  streets 
hurling  l)eans  and  corn  at  the  persons  in  carriages  and  on 
l)alconies. 

The  grand  finale  of  the  carnival  is  deferred  until  even- 
ing, wlien  the  theaters  l)econie  l)all-rooms.  San  Carlos,  the 
royal  opera  house,  has  its  parquet  doored  over,  and  there 
dancing  begins  at  nine  o’clock,  to  end  at  midnight.  Some- 
times the  meml)ers  of  the  royal  family  engage  in  tlie  amuse- 
ment of  the  evening  from  the  royal  l)Ox ; and  they  too  are 
sul)ject  to  tlie  play  of  the  lusnaga,  without  showing  any 
resentment,  and  pleasantly  join  in  the  general  pelting  of  tlie 
people  about  them.  Attendants  at  these  halls  are  masked 
and  wear  dominos  over  the  wash-toilets  which  are  worn 
on  these  occasions,  and  everybody  is  armed  witli  bisnagas. 
During  the  last  three  days  of  the  carnival,  I did  not  dare  to 
venture  out  in  an  open  carriage.  Even  last  Sunday,  return- 
ing from  church,  the  carriage  door  was  opened  and  a bis- 
naga  was  dred  at  me.  A little  farther  on  and  the  caiTiage 


EAETHQUAKE  AND  CAIINIVAL  IN  LISBON. 


219 


door  was  again  opened,  and  a coil  of  ninddy  string  was 
thrown  into  iny  lap  and  quickly  drawn  out,  leaving  a dirty 
track  on  iny  dress.  This  advantage  is  taken  of  carriages 
when  they  are  going  up  a hill  and  are  moving  slowly.  And 
this  is  called  carnival  sport!  However,  with  the  carnival 
come  certain  advantages : the  tiu'keys  and  birds  have  good 
pickings  in  the  streets  for  days  afterward. 

It  is  a puzzle  to  foreigners  to  learn  the  names  most  in 
use  of  some  of  the  streets  in  Lisbon,  for  many  of  them 
are  commonly  called  in  conversation  by  an  entirely  differ- 
ent name  from  those  displayed  on  the  sign-hoards.  For 
instance,  Ilua  Bella  da  Baiulai^  in  English  the  Street  of 
the  Beautiful  Qneeii,  is  generally  spoken  of  as  Baa  da 
Praia,  Silver  Street.  Also  some  of  the  streets  have  very 
long  names  : Baa  da  Porta  do  Ckirro  do  HospiUd  Beal  de  S'. 
Jo.se,  Street  of  the  Gate  on  the  S(piare  of  the  Royal  Hos- 
pital of  Saint  Joseph.  Another  long  street  name  reads. 
Baa  de  Saato  Aatonio  da  Praga  do  Coareato  do  Coraedo  de 
Jems,  Street  of  Saint  Antonio  on  the  Square  of  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Heart  of  Jesus.  Some  of  the  signiticant  names 
read  as  follows : Bo(a  das  Jaaellas  Verdes,  Street  of  the 

Green  Blinds ; Baa  da  Madre  de  Peas,  Street  of  the  Mother 
of  God ; B)ia  das  Cebolas,  Street  of  the  Onions ; Baa  da.s 
hem  Casados,  Street  of  the  Happy  Married.  While  study- 
ing the  street  names  one  acquires  consideral>le  knowledge 
of  the  vernacular  of  the  country. 


rx 


Lishon.  Beliyions  Proces.sioHS. 


SBON,  April  6,  1884.  Among  tlie  most  striking  sights 


in  the  streets  of  Lisl)on  were  formerly  the  religious 
})rocessions,  hut  since  the  partial  disestahlishment  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church  in  Portugal  they  have  become 
greatly  reduced  in  nunil^er,  as  well  as  in  magnitude  and 
s|)lendor.  One  of  the  chief  processions  nowadays  is  the 
Corpus  C'hristi  procession.  It  represents  our  Samor  on 
his  way  to  the  crucifixion.  There  are  six  different  figures 
of  Christ  in  wood,  carried  upon  as  many  platforms,  deco- 
rated with  artificial  and  natural  flowers.  Each  platform 
was  ])orne  h}^  eight  priests  witii  uncovered  lieads  preceded 
l>y  a little  girl  al)Out  eight  years  old,  dressed  to  represent  an 
angel,  who  wore  a light-hlue  dress,  shoes  of  the  same  color, 
and  had  two  silver-paper  wings  attached  to  her  shoulder, 
and  a wreath  of  white  roses  on  her  iiead.  The  first  figure 
of  Christ  was  di*essed  in  a long,  flowing  purple  robe,  repre- 
senting him  as  a teacher. 

The  second  was  in  a kneeling  position  and  had  a green 
branch  in  its  hand.  The  third  figure  had  a heavy  rope 
around  its  waist  The  fourth  was  naked,  and  its  feet  and 
hands  were  l)Ound  with  ropes.  The  figure  on  the  fifth  plat- 


220 


RELIGIOUS  PROCESSIONS. 


221 


form  was  bent  and  bore  a heavy  cross.  The  last  ligm*e 
represented  Christ  nailed  to  the  cross.  Then  followed  the 
ligiire  of  Mary  the  mother.  Behind  the  lig’ime  on  the  cross 
walked  several  men  and  women  doing  penance.  They  had 
made  vows  that  if  certain  prayers  were  answered,  they 
would  go  through  the  streets  l)arefooted  in  the  procession 
and  afterward  dispense  with  shoes  for  a certain  length  of 
time ; each  having  his  or  her  own  peculiar  vow  to  fidhll. 

Among  the  penitents  was  a woman  dressed  in  a short,  bright 
pnr|)le  dress,  wearing  a long  black  veil  over  her  head  and 
face.  She  carried  a crucilix  in  her  hand,  and  walked  solemnly 
along  with  the  other  penitents.  She  was  a lady  of  nobility, 
and  was  fnlfilling  a vow  made  when  her  child  was  very  sick. 
I observed  that  her  feet  were  white  and  looked  very  delicate. 
That  they  were  not  accnstomed  to  the  hard  pavement  was 
emdentfrom  her  walking.  Tliere  was  a large  military  escort, 
and  thousands  of  people  in  the  procession.  For  many  years 
this  procession  was  abandoned,  l)nt  some  years  ago  a ricli  Bra- 
zilian died  and  left  among  his  bequests  a sufficient  anioimt 
of  money  to  a particular  churcli  to  pay  the  expense  of  an 
annual  procession  for  a limited  number  of  years.  If  the  pro- 
cession is  not  annually  made,  the  money  is  thereafter  to  be 
used  for  another  purpose.  The  king  and  his  ministers  and 
other  high  officials  soinetimes  take  part  in  the  procession. 

There  is  another  procession  in  which  the  viaticum  is  carried 
to  the  sick  and  dying.  The  priests  and  necessary  attendants 
are  called  together  by  the  ringing  of  a l)ell  at  the  chiu'ch  door. 
A bare-headed  priest  carries  the  blessed  sacrament  under  a 
canopy  preceded  by  other  priests  wearing  scarlet  capes  and 
bearing  lighted  candles.  The  approach  of  the  procession  is 
announced  by  the  ringing  of  a l)ell,  at  tiie  sound  of  which 
many  of  the  passers-by  kneel  and  uncover  their  heads  until  the 


222 


FEAGMENTAKY  LETTEES. 


procession  has  passed.  If  it  takes  place  in  the  night,  lighted 
candles  are  often  placed  at  the  windows  on  the  street 
throngh  winch  the  procession  is  passing.  The  attendants 
sing  in  a low  chanting  voice  until  they  arrive  at  their  des- 
tination. I have  sometimes  met  these  processions  when  out 
driving,  and  have  frequently  seen  them  passing  our  hotel  at 
night. 

Lisl)on,  April  12,  1884.  We  have  not  been  in  a railroad 
car  since  the  5th  -of  last  October,  the  day  we  separated  in 
London,  you  going  to  Liverpool  to  embark  for  New  York, 
and  1 to  Southampton  to  embark  tor  Lisbon.  1 have  not 
since  seen  a railroad,  nor  a car,  nor  even  heard  a locomotive 
whistle ! However,  we  intend  soon  to  go  to  Oporto  by  rail. 

The  Easter  holidays  have  l:)egun;  to-day  the  sti’eets  are 
alive  with  people,  the  women  wearing  new  spring  bonnets, 
and  the  men  the  latest  fashions  of  hats  and  neck-ties.  To-mor- 
row, Easter  Sunday,  is  a grand  church  festival.  The  churches 
are  l)eautifully  decorated  with  evergreens  and  dowers.  A choir 
of  one  himch’ed  voices,  male  and  female,  has  been  practic- 
ing tor  weeks  in  a l)nilding  very  near  us,  to  sing  to-morrow 
in  one  of  the  large  churches.  A special  dispensation  was 
obtained  from  the  pope,  ijermitting  female  voices  to  take 
part  in  this  Easter  musical  celel)ration.  This  is  considered 
as  an  extraordinary  indulgence,  tor  it  will  he  the  drst  time 
that  female  voices  will  have  been  heard  in  the  church  choirs 
of  Lisbon. 

Lisbon,  April  27,  1884.  W"e  gave  a (hnner  a few  days  since 
to  some  of  our  colleagues,  and  to  several  members  of  the 
king’s  cabinet  and  their  wives.  There  were  eighteen  covers 
and  twelve  coiu'ses.  Our  reception-room  was  beautifully 


RELIGI0U8  PROCESSIONS. 


223 


decovated.  We  had  twenty-two  different  tloi'al  desi^'ns,  inclnd- 
ing  three  hnndred  and  hfty  roses  and  a score  of  calla-lilies, 
besides  many  other  dowers.  Onr  salon  is  quite  spacious,  and  I 
arranged  around  the  center-tahle  the  sofas  and  chairs  in  such 
a manner  that  between  them  and  the  wall  there  was  suffi- 
cient space  for  a number  of  tallies  on  which  1 placed  the 
doral  decorations  and  jardinieres  of  trailing  vines.  The 
dining-room,  which  adjoins  the  reception-room,  was  also 
made  very  attractive  with  dowers  and  ferns.  On  the  dining- 
tahle  were  arranged  very  effectively  pink  and  tea  roses. 
The  dower-mottoes  from  New  York  came  in  time,  and  were 
quite  novel. 

We  are  to  have  a Kerin f.sse^  oi*  fair,  in  the  Tapada,  or  royal 
})ark,  which  is  to  l>e  nnder  the  auspices  of  the  queen.  This 
fair  is  for  the  henedt  of  the  children’s  home  and  liospital.  The 
queen  has  accepted  the  presidency  of  the  Kermesse  Associa- 
tion, and  has  kindly  consented  to  preside  in  person  in  the 
doral  pavilion.  A tent  has  been  erected  and  elegantly  fur- 
nished and  carjieted.  In  it  the  dowers  are  to  lie  artistically 
aiTanged,  and  Her  Majesty  will  personally  dispense  the  dow- 
ers. It  is  generally  nnderstood  by  the  memhers  of  the  diplo- 
matic corps  that  not  less  than  £2  sterling  will  l)e  offered  for 
a rose ! It  is  even  whispered  tliat  gentlemen  must  not  vent- 
nre  to  attend  the  Kermesse  with  the  expectation  of  spending 
less  than  £5.  The  ladies  of  noliility  have  pavilions  around 
the  doral  tent,  [ind  will  sell  fancy  and  nsefnl  articles.  It  is 
believed  that  $25,000  will  he  reahzed  from  the  sales  at  the 
Kermesse. 


X 


Oporto. 


POKTO,  May  12,  1884.  We  have  left  Lisbon  for  the 


summer,  ami  only  intend  to  stop  there  for  a few  days 
on  onr  return  froni  Oporto  i>efore  going  to  Cintra.  We  are 
a i>arty  of  fom-  persons,  inclmling  a jolly  old  Scotch  gentle- 
man, Mr.  P.,  and  Mr.  W.,  of  Lisbon.  The  distance  between 
the  two  capitals  of  P<^rtngal,  as  Lisbon  and  Oporto  are 
called,  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  l)ut  it  requires 
thirteen  hours  to  accomplish  the  journey.  The  slow  run- 
ning-time and  frequent  stops  make  a long  journey  between 
the  two  cities.  The  railroad  passes  throngh  the  finest 
agricultural  portion  of  the  kingdom.  We  saw  thonsands 
of  men,  women,  and  children  lal)oring  in  the  vineyards,  rice 
and  other  fields.  In  the  \dcinity  of  0])orto  is  the  ])ort-wine 
district,  where  we  saw  the  grape  extensively  cultivated. 

At  Coimbra,  the  university  town  of  Portugal,  about  two 
hours  from  Oporto,  students  were  awaiting  at  the  station 
the  arrival  of  friends.  IWiile  at  college,  students  do  not 
wear  hats  in  winter  or  in  summer.  The  uniform  is  a plain 
black  suit,  comprising  a long  black  frock-coat  and  a Spanish 
cape  having  long  tal)S,  one  of  which  can  he  thrown  over  the 
left  shoulder,  and  the  other,  in  had  weather,  over  the  head. 


224 


OPOETO. 


225 


Tlie  imiveTsity  is  a wealthy  and  well-managed  institution, 
and  has  ahont  one  tlionsan<l  students. 

From  Coiml)ra  to  Oporto  the  country  is  very  x>i<‘tnresque. 
Tlie  railroad  crosses  the  rivers  Minho  and  DoTiro,  whicli  rnn 
through  the  most  aral)le  ])art  of  the  conntry,  Tliere  are 
many  liamlets  along  the  route  where  tlie  farmers  live.  At 
this  season  of  the  year  all  the  stont  and  able-liodied  meni- 
l)ers  of  these  little  commnnities  are  at  work  in  the  fields, 
and  only  the  old  women  and  hahies  are  seen  aliont  tlie  doors 
of  their  linmble  homes. 

We  are  very  comfortaldy  located  at  the  Glrand  Hotel 
d’Oporto,  the  nianagement  of  which  is  very  ef&eient,  and 
tfie  cnisine  excellent. 

Opoido  lias  a population  of  100,000,  emhracing  a colony 
of  100  Englisli  families  and  as  many  more  Grerman.  Oporto 
is  hnilt  on  liotli  hanks  of  tlie  Donro  River,  three  miles  from 
its  month,  and  is  more  pictnrescpiely  situated  than  Lisbon. 
The  river  is  crossed  by  two  fine  bridges,  and  constantly 
plying  ferry-lioats.  Oporto  would  have  been  long  ago  a 
rival  of  Lisbon  had  there  not  been  such  a perilous  entrance 
for  large  craft  to  the  river.  The  city  runs  up  and  dovm 
hills  as  does  Lishon.  The  houses  are  generally  cased  out- 
side with  tiles  of  Moorish  patterns  and  liright  colors.  Every 
window  has  its  balcony,  and  the  eaves  project  so  far  that 
they  really  offer  a protection  from  rain  to  the  passer-by. 
The  entrances  to  the  houses  are  low,  dark,  and  disagreeable. 

The  Oportians  are  a more  active  people  than  the  Lis- 
bonese.  They  move  cpiicker  in  the  streets,  and  shop  with 
fewer  compliments.  One  of  the  finest  streets  is  occupied 
almost  entirely  by  the  gold  and  silver  trade.  Beautiful 
gold  and  silver  filigree  work  is  made  there,  which  finds 
ready  sale  in  Lisbon. 


29 


22G 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


The  women  fish-venders  are  very  good  patrons  of  this 
ornamental  industry;  they  wear  neck-chains,  ear-rings, 
finger-rings,  and  large  brooches,  either  of  gold  or  silver, 
while  they  are  iniiins  hats  and  shoes,  and  have  barely  length 
enough  of  skirt  to  cover  their  knees.  But  with  a gay  scarf 
aronnd  their  waists,  the  fish -venders  look  quite  bonny. 
These  women  invest  the  most  of  their  earnings  in  gold  and 
silver  jewelry,  which  they  buy  by  weight,  a certain  sum 
l)eing  allowed  for  workmanship,  and  with  a certificate  of 
value  l)earing  the  name  of  the  seller,  and  stating  how  much 
will  l)e  paid  for  it  if  returned  witliin  a certain  time.  The 
buyer  may  wear  the  large  ear-rings  in  her  ears  for  years  and 
then  return  them  at  a fair  price.  The  fish-venders  wear  the 
longest  chains,  the  heaviest  finger-rings,  and  the  most 
elaborately  wrought  ear-rings  that  are  seen  in  the  streets 
of  Lisbon  or  Oi)orto. 

In  0})orto  tlie  carrying  business  is  done  by  oxen  driven 
l)y  old  women  and  little  girls,  who  walk  by  the  heads  of  the 
animals  bare-footed  and  bare-headed,  handling  with  dex- 
terity the  long  svfitches  with  which  they  hasten  the  steps  of 
the  slow-moving  animals.  And  they  too  are  good  patrons 
of  tlie  gold  and  silversmiths.  We  visited  the  City-hall,  one 
of  the  finest  buildings  in  Portugal,  and  the  pride  of  Oporto. 
Its  construction  reminds  one  of  the  Alhambra  at  Grenada. 
It  is  decorated  in  stucco-work  after  Moorish  designs,  and 
is  very  rich  in  coloring.  Tlie  interior  work  alone  cost 
$200,000. 

A cliurch  stands  near  liy  bearing  the  inscription  that 
it  was  Imilt  one  thousand  years  ago.  The  elaborate  wood- 
carvings  in  the  church  are  bright  with  pure  gold-foil.  The 
wood-work  was  regilded  four  hundred  years  ago,  since 
which  time  it  has  not  been  renewed ; still  it  looks  as  fresh 
as  if  the  gilding  had  been  done  a few  years  ago. 


OPORTO. 


227 


Yesterday  we  lunched  with  the  Cternian  cotisul,  at  his 
country  seat,  called  ^"Quinta  Amarell(('''  or  yellow  quinta,  so 
called  from  the  color  of  the  house  and  inclosing  walls.  It 
was  a family  party,  and  so  the  children  were  introduced  to 
ns  at  the  lunch -table,  eight  in  all,  ranging  in  age  from 
a three-year-old  miss  to  one  of  seventeen  years.  All  tlie 
meml)ers  of  the  family  speak  (Ternian,  French,  English, 
and  Portuguese.  The  motlier  of  this  interesting  family  is 
only  thirty- seven  years  old. 

In  the  snl)uibs  of  Oporto  are  many  line  cpiintas  and 
pretty  villas.  The  roses  of  Oporto  are  famous.  Last  year 
when  the  king  went  to  Madrid,  he  took  as  a present  to 
Queen  Christina  of  Spain  eight  hundred  roses,  which 
included  three  hundred  varieties,  all  grown  in  Oporto. 


XI 


Braya.  The  PihjrhiKiye  Chapels  of  the  Bom  Jesus. 

EAGA,  ^lay  15,  1881.  1 now  write  from  the  Grand  Hotel 


of  the  Good  Jesns  of  the  Mountain,  the  Grand  Hotel 
do  Bom  Jesus  do  Monte,  an  old  cathedral  town  of  Portugal, 
a summer  resort  in  tlie  mountains  overlooking  Braga.  The 
liotel  derives  its  name  from  the  church  neai‘  it  upon  the 
mountain.  Prom  Oporto  to  Braga  is  a distance  of  forty 
miles,  l)nt  it  takes  three  hours  to  make  it.  Arrived  at 
Braga,  we  were  transferred  to  a tramway-car  drawn  hy 
horses,  and  passed  through  the  town,  wlien  tlie  horses  were 
detached  from  the  car  and  a small  locomotive  was  attached 
to  it,  and  we  were  taken  two  miles  farther  to  the  foot  of 
the  monntain,  when  hy  another  transfer  we  were  placed  on 
l)oard  a cable  elevator  car,  which  took  us  almost  perpen- 
dicularly up  twelve  hniuh'ed  feet  to  the  hotel. 

From  Oporto  to  Braga  the  road  runs  tlirongh  a valley 
of  \dneyards  and  wild  flowers.  The  wine  made  north  of 
Oporto  is  a sour  white  wine,  called  "'rinho  verdef  the  com- 
mon wine  of  the  country.  It  is  fimiished  at  the  table  as  free 
as  water.  The  grapes  growing  south  of  Oporto  make  the  best 
port  wine.  The  vines  are  trained  on  chestnut-trees,  at  the 
foot  of  which  the  \dnes  are  planted,  which  in  time  over- 


?28 


BKAGA. 


229 


run  tlieir  branches.  The  trees  are  planted  so  close  together 
that  the  vines  hang  between  them  in  inter-tAviniug  festoons. 
For  miles  one  sees  a continuous  trellis  of  grape-vines.  The 
trees  also  produce  abundant  crops  of  chestnuts.  The  sight 
of  the  miles  and  miles  of  chestnut-trees  l)earing  their  o’wn 
fruit  and  burdened  with  great  clusters  of  purple  grapes,  is 
indeed  a novel  one  to  foreigners.  The  grape  is  the  prin- 
cipal product  of  this  district ; the  ohve  does  not  grow  here. 

We  lind  the  Hotel  do  Bom  Jesus  much  better  kept  than 
country  hotels  in  general  in  Portugal.  The  cuisine  is  fair, 
and  the  iincarpeted  bedrooms  are  clean  and  cozy.  The  beds, 
however,  are  as  hard  as  straw  beds  can  l)e.  Spring  beds  and 
hair  mattresses  have  not  yet  found  their  way  into  this  part 
of  Portugal.  The  pillows  are  little  cushions  about  twelve 
inches  square,  one  on  a bed,  and  are  about  as  thick  as  a 
biscuit,  and  the  pillow-cover  as  stift'  as  starch  could  make  it. 
These  little  pillows,  dainty  to  look  at,  are  not  very  practical 
for  the  inexperienced  person,  as  1 learned  at  the  cost  of  a 
disturbed  night’s  rest.  1 awakened  to  find  it  had  mysteri- 
ously disappeared,  and  after  searching  for  it  1 discovered  it 
on  the  door  at  the  side  of  tlie  bed.  The  pillow  was  missed 
again  that  night  and  was  again  found  on  the  door.  On  the 
second  night  1 pinned  the  pillow  to  the  straw  bed,  and  had 
no  repetition  of  the  exiieriences  of  the  previous  night. 

W e are  furnislied  three  good  meals  a day,  the  last  one  at 
nine  o’clock  in  the  evening,  which  consists  of  hot  1)ouillon, 
liot  milk,  tea,  bi'cad  and  butter.  There  are  pleasant  walks 
in  every  direction  in  winch  we  can  wander  for  hours  under 
the  shade  of  the  pink  and  white  dowering  chestnut  and 
acacia  trees.  Active  preparations  are  making  to  celebrate 
early  in  June  the  centennial  aninversary  of  the  Church  of 
the  Bom  Jesus.  During  the  week  of  the  celebration  a fair 


230 


FRAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


will  he  held  which  will  afford  the  young  people  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  the  opportunity  for  inatch-inaking  and 
getting  married. 

The  hotel  has  heen  engaged  for  the  week  hy  the  Bishop  of 
Braga  and  Ids  neighhoring  clergymen.  The  corner-stone  of 
this  church  was  laid  June  1,  1784.  Until  the  last  fifteen 
years  this  ])lace  on  the  mountain  was  occupied  only  as  a 
quiet  retreat  hy  a few  priests,  since  which  time,  however, 
two  small  hotels  have  heen  huilt,  and  the  priests  wfillingly 
consented  to  share  the  enjoyment  of  it  with  the  secular 
world,  and  now  it  has  heconie  a popular  Portuguese  summer 
resort.  Tlie  tourist  seldom  visits  it,  for  it  is  too  far  from  the 
general  line  of  travel. 

On  Palm  ISunday  a pilgrimage  is  made  to  the  chm*ch  hy 
devotees  from  far  and  near.  Sometimes  penitents  make 
the  ascent  of  the  four  hundi*ed  steps  on  then*  knees.  This 
church  is  a Mecca  to  many  Portuguese.  Upon  hoth  sides 
of  the  stair- way,  called  the  “Ascent  to  the  Grood  Jesus,”  at 
short  intervals  are  small  stone  chapels,  about  tliirty  feet 
square,  richly  decorated  inside  and  outside  vfith  sculptimed 
stone.  Each  one  of  the  chapels  contains  from  ten  to  twenty 
l)ihlical  sculptured  wooden  figimes,  life-size  and  painted  to 
represent  the  supposed  cUess  of  Christ’s  time.  The  figures 
are  so  arranged  in  the  chapels  as  to  represent  the  trial, 
the  judgment,  the  crucifixion,  and  the  ascension  of  om* 
Savior.  On  stone  tablets  above  the  doors  of  the  chapels 
are  inscriptions  of  quotations  from  the  Bible,  referring  to 
the  representations  within.  Near  the  top  of  the  stam-way, 
and  also  at  intervals,  are  nine  platforms  about  thirty  feet 
square,  each  surmounted  vdth  three  stone  statues,  larger 
tlian  life-size,  of  Old  and  New  Testament  worthies.  Many 
of  the  wooden  figures  were  made  in  Rome,  and  others  were 


BEAGA. 


231 


carved  on  the  <>;roimd.  Upon  all  the  platforms  are  stone 
fountains  of  rnnning  water  engraved  with  Bible  texts. 

On  the  first  platform  at  the  l)eginning  of  the  ascent  is  a 
very  large  square  stone  fonntain  on  which  are  cut  represen- 
tations of  the  instruments  used  in  the  scourging  and  crnci- 
fixion  of  Christ.  People  may  l)e  seen  at  all  times  kneeling 
l>efore  the  chapels,  which  are  always  open.  This  stair-way 
is  a wonderful  construction,  and  makes  the  place  one  of 
peculiar  distinction.  Every  year  several  solemn  processions 
ascend  the  mountain  l)y  the  stair- way. 

The  Church  of  the  Bom  Jesus  is  really  a rich  cathedral, 
heantifnl  in  proportions,  and  costly  in  decorations.  The 
work  of  renovating  its  interior  and  of  cleaning  the  statu- 
ary is  in  progress.  The  entire  ceihng  is  a bed  of  heavy  gild- 
ing, on  which  are  represented  sacred  scenes  in  stucco-work 
richly  colored.  The  hnilding  is  constructed  of  granite 
(piarried  on  the  mountain,  and  also  many  of  the  statues 
were  made  there. 

There  had  been  a very  strong  sentiment  expressed  on  the 
part  of  the  Roman  Catholic  clergy  against  the  innovation 
caused  by  the  erection  of  the  two  hotels  and  the  presence 
of  irreligious  visitors  on  this  considered  sacred  mountain. 
However,  these  ol)jections  have  been  overcome  to  a certain 
extent  l)y  the  increasing  liberality  of  the  Clinrch  in  Portugal. 

We  have  passed  a most  delightful  week  at  this  mountain 
retreat.  I have  never  met  an  Amencan  tourist  who  had 
heard  of  this  place.  I was  somewhat  surprised  to  see  on 
the  glass  shade  of  one  of  the  large  lamps  in  the  hotel  sitting- 
room,  a pictorial  view  of  the  Hudson  River  at  West  Point, 
one  of  the  Buttermilk  Falls  at  Catskill,  and  one  of  the 
Thousand  Islands  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  the 
respective  names  in  the  English  text. 


232 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


Braga  is  situated  near  the  base  of  the  mountain  of  the 
Bom  Jesus,  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  Portuguese  cities  of  the 
second  order.  It  has  a population  of  16,000,  among  which 
is  a large  nunil)er  of  ijriests.  There  are  two  large  and  well- 
shaded  parks  in  the  city,  and  many  public  fountains.  The 
catherh'al  is  a hue  large  building  of  the  twelfth  century. 
It  is  a very  pretty  scene  to  look  dovm  upon  Braga  at  night 
from  the  elevation  on  wliicii  our  hotel  is  situated,  and 
observe  the  thousands  of  glimmering  street-lights  stretching 
in  long  and  devious  lines  through  the  town.  . Ghmpses  of 
the  sea,  thudy  miles  away,  are  caught  at  different  points  on 
tlie  mountain.  There  is  not  a word  of  English  spoken  in 
our  hearing  except  by  the  mend^ers  of  our  own  httle  party. 
However,  aided  by  gesticidations,  we  make,  vdth  our  limited 
knowledge  of  the  Portugnese  language,  our  ■ wants  and 
thoughts  intelligible  to  those  unacquainted  with  our  Enghsh. 


Xll 


Adieu  to  Lisbon.  Arrivid  at  Handmru. 

IiSBON,  May  27th,  We  returned  to  this  city  well  satisfied 
J and  ninch  enlightened  by  onr  fortnight’s  visit  in  the 
north  part  of  Portugal.  The  Kerniesse  took  place  during 
onr  al)sence,  and  the  fullest  expectations  of  its  projectors 
were  realized.  Al)ont  $30,000  were  netted,  and  were  placed 
in  the  hands  of  the  queen  to  dispose  of. 

The  eighty  days  in  all  of  conrt-nionrning  this  season  has 
at  last  come  to  an  end ; it  has  had  a restraining  effect  upon 
court  and  diplomatic  society,  and  now  as  the  warm  season 
has  commenced  the  society  people  are  preparing  to  go  to  the 
country.  Many  families  are  going  to  Cintra,  and  we  shall 
soon  follow. 

[The  letters  written  between  the  date  of  the  last  one  of 
]\Iay  29,  1884,  and  the  following  one  were  lost,  hence  the 
noticeable  break  in  the  correspondence.] 

Lisbon,  August  23,  1884.  We  shall  soon  take  our  depart- 
ure from  Lisljon,  and  proceed  to  the  post  of  your  father’s 
recently  received  appointment  at  Vienna.  We  have  been 
staying  a few  days  in  Lisbon ; the  heat  here  is  intense  dur- 
ing the  day,  Imt  with  the  sunset  come  the  cooling  breezes 
from  the  sea,  which  make  this  semi-tropical  temperature 


30 


233 


234 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


endurable.  We  have  taken  passage  on  the  Brazilian  steamer 
Pefropolis  for  Hainhurg,  which  is  expected  to  arrive  here  in 
a day  or  two.  A voyage  of  six  or  seven  days  and  twenty- 
two  hours  of  railroad  traveling  will  carry  ns  to  Vienna. 

Your  father’s  (official  duties  as  United  States  Minister 
here  liave  terminated.  An  audience  wdth  the  king  and 
(iueen,  last  visits  to  our  colleagues,  and  several  dinners  witli 
friends  have  occupied  us  during  the  few  days.  After  some 
good-hyes  to  other  friends,  we  shall  embark  for  our  new 
destination,  with  many  pleasant  memories  of  the  attract- 
ive city  and  its  cultivated  and  hospitable  peojjle.  The 
numerous  souvenirs  of  our  two-years’  residence  at  the  capi- 
tal of  Portugal,  which  we  take  with  us,  will  always  remind 
us  of  the  very  enjoyidde  period  of  our  life  in  this  country. 

There  is  a very  interesting  story  respecting  the  founding 
of  Lisbon,  which  I must  tell  you  before  leaving  the  city, 
although  I do  not  voucli  for  its  truth.  It  is  related  that 
Ulysses,  with  a hand  of  followers  in  liis  long  wanderings  on 
the  sea  after  the  conquest  of  Troy,  found  his  way  into  the 
River  Tagus,  where  he  found  the  harbor  so  dehghtful  and 
welcome  after  his  long  and  dangerous  huftetings  on  the  seas, 
and  the  products  along  the  shore  so  satisfying  to  his  famish- 
ing men,  that  he  determined  to  trace  out  a city  close  by 
the  shore.  This  he  did,  and  erected  a temple  to  Minerva, 
naming  the  new  city  Ulysippo.  The  intruding  customs  and 
the  overbearing  manners  of  the  Glreeks  at  last  di'ew^  upon 
themselves  the  hostihty  of  the  natives,  and  Ulysses  was  com- 
pelled to  abandon  the  liope  of  making  a permanent  settle- 
ment, and  induced  his  men  — many  of  whom  were  inclined 
to  join  with  the  natives  — to  sail  once  more  in  search  of 
his  beloved  Island  of  Ithaca,  hoping  to  meet  again  Penel- 
ope and  Telemachus,  his  wife  and  son. 


ARRIVAL  AT  HAMBURG. 


235 


N board  tlie  Pefropolis^  August  31,  1884.  Tlie  steamer 


arrived  at  Lisbon  on  time,  and  we  enil)arked  with  bag 
and  baggage  on  the  25tli  inst.  Until  we  had  crossed  the  Bay 
of  Biscay, — old  Neptune’s  domain, — a passage  of  tliree 
(lays,  I could  not  find  on  the  ship  a “ level  si)ot  ” on  which  to 
write  my  name,  inucli  less  to  indite  a letter.  Now  we  are 
in  the  English  Channel,  witliin  two  or  three  days  of  Ham- 
hurg,  and  are  having  smoother  water  and  more  agreeable 
conditions  of  hfe  on  shipboard. 

The  distance  from  Lisbon  to  Hamburg  is  1350  miles.  Our 
steamer  is  a merchant  vessel  running  from  Hanilmrg  to  the 
La  Platte  River  in  Brazil.  It  is  a clean  and  comfortable 
little  ship,  and  has  accommodation  for  sixteen  cabin  passen- 
gers and  two  hundred  steerage.  We  are  but  four  passengers 
in  the  cabin,  a Swiss  governess  returning  lioine  on  a three- 
months’  visit  after  seven  years’  residence  at  Rio  Janeiro,  a 
Swiss  merchant,  and  ourselves.  Tlie  cargo  is  cork,  Iddes, 
and  thirty  thousand  sacks  of  coffee.  You  can  imagine  that 
in  this  warm  climate  the  ship  is  thoroughly  permeated  with 
bad  odors.  The  disagreeable  smells  and  the  odor  of  fresh 
paint  cause  us  to  remain  , on  deck  the  greater  part  of  the 
twenty-four  hours.  A ship  in  this  line  makes  four  round 
trips  a year,  counting  eleven  thousand  miles  each  voyage. 
Tlie  sea-route  to  the  north  of  Europe  is  far  more  comfort- 
able than  to  go  by  rail,  with  tlie  Spanish,  French,  and 
Austrian  custom-houses  to  pass,  and  the  annoyance  of  mak- 
ing the  necessary  changes  of  money  to  pay  incidentals  and 
eating  en  route. 

September  2, 1884.  Here  we  are  in  the  River  Ellie  aground, 
with  the  bow  of  our  ship  emliedded  in  a sand-har,  and  we 
are  within  a half-hour’s  distance  of  Hamburg.  We  have 


236 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


already  been  eighteen  hours  in  this  position,  where  we  can 
see  the  spu’es  of  the  churches  in  the  city.  The  removal  aft 
of  the  cargo  is  in  progress,  and  we  hope  the  vessel  will  he 
sufficiently  lightened  to  enable  it  to  pass  over  the  bar.  How- 
ever, the  captain  has  sent  to  the  harbor-inaster  for  a small 
l)oat  to  take  off  the  passengers,  so  there  is  some  hope  that 
we  may  reach  tlie  city  l)efore  night.  We  are  just  otf  the 
beer-garden  of  Blankenese,  a summer  resort  a few  miles 
distant  from  Hamburg,  and  vdthin  soiuid  of  the  orchestral 
music,  which,  while  we  do  not  hear  it  in  its  completeness, 
comes  to  ns  in  occasional  strains,  and  helps  us  to  while  away 
tlie  tedious  hours  of  waiting  to  be  landed. 


AjMBUEG,  September  3,  1884.  In  coming  into  the  dock 


yesterday  we  saw  the  Holmtia  and  the  Frisia,  in  which 
steamers  we  crossed  the  Atlantic  some  years  ago.  We  are 
at  Strait’s  Hotel,  a nice  old-fashioned  house,  where  we  find 
tlie  United  States  consuls  of  Hamburg  and  Bremen  are 
living  at  present.  Tlie  scenery  of  the  Elbe,  near  Hamburg, 
reminded  me  of  that  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson  at 
Yonkers.  The  banks  of  the  Elbe  are  terraced  down  to  the 
water-side,  and  are  occn|)ied  by  fine  gardens  and  villas. 

In  the  center  of  Hamlmrg  is  a small  lake  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  some  of  the  largest  hotels  and  many  of  the 
finest  residences  in  the  city,  besides  several  lai-ge  cafes. 

Hamburg  is  one  of  the  handsome  cities  of  northern  Cler- 
niany,  and  we  regret  that  our  short  stay  will  not  permit  us 
to  see  much  of  it. 


XIII 


Vienna.  Ring  Sfrasse.  Court  Balls. 
lENNA,  September  14, 1884.  We  had  a pleasant  journey 


from  Ham})urg.  The  weather  was  line  and  we  greatly 
enjoyed  the  fresh  landscape  of  this  northem  country  after 
seeing  so  recently  the  dry  and  arid  fields  of  Portugal,  as 
they  are  at  this  season  of  the  year.  We  occupy  the  apart- 
ment of  your  father’s  predecessor.  Judge  T.,  and  retain  the 
Grerman  servants.  Fortunately  my  little  knowledge  of  the 
(Termaii  language  enaldes  me  to  understand,  and  to  he  under- 
stood, in  the  management  of  household  affairs.  Pro^dded 
with  an  Englisli -Grerman  chctionary  I get  along  very  well. 

Your  father  has  had  an  audience  with  the  Emperor  of 
Austria,  Prancis  Joseph,  and  presented  his  letter  of  creden- 
tials. The  eni])eror  received  him  most  kindly,  and  recol- 
lected having  seen  him  eleven  years  ago  in  the  palace  of 
8chdiil)runn.  At  that  time  we  were  on  oui‘  way  home  to  the 
United  IStates  from  Athens,  where  your  father  was  minister. 
We  had  come  by  the  way  of  Vienna  to  visit  the  Exposition. 
The  empress  gives  no  special  amUences.  We  shall  l)e  i)i*e- 
sented  to  her  majesty  on  the  occasion  of  the  first  court  hall 
in  January. 


237 


238 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


We  have  a charming  apartment  in  a large  building 
situated  on  the  corner  of  Lothringer  Strasse  and  Canova- 
gasse.  It  includes  twenty-two  rooms,  of  which  there  is  a 
continuous  suite  of  six  beautiful  rooms  overlooking  Loth- 
ringer Strasse  on  the  River  Wien.  The  hanks  of  this  river 
are  terraced  down  to  the  water,  and  are  laid  out  in  public 
gardens,  small  parks,  and  parterres  of  flowers.  Two  flne 
stone  l)ridges  span  the  river  in  this  part  of  the  city.  Across 
the  river  are  blocks  of  magnificent  houses,  two  flne  churches, 
and  the  Swartzenberg  Palace.  We  are  vis-d-vis  the  Con- 
servatory of  Music,  and  very  near  the  art  gallery  where 
Marcott  has  his  scores  of  paintings  on  exhibition.  We  are 
not  a minute’s  walk  fi’oin  the  Ring  Strasse,  the  grand 
promenade  of  Vienna. 

Vienna,  September  21,  1884.  We  are  now  cpiite  settled  in 
our  new  home,  and  have  already  commenced  the  round  of 
etiquette  visits.  We  have  had  the  pleasure  of  having  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  S.,  of  Athens,  and  tlieir  daughter  Andromache  to 
dine  with  us.  He  and  his  vufe  are  still  engaged  in  making 
excavations  in  Ureece,  and  also  are  occupied  in  writing  a 
work  on  their  latest  archaeological  discoveries.  You  wiU 
reineinber  Anth’oniache  as  a Iniglit,  black-eyed  baby  when 
you  were  with  us  in  Athens.  She  is  now  a beautiful  and 
interesting  girl  of  fourteen  years  and  is  much  devoted  to 
her  studies.  Her  brother  Againeinnon  is  not  less  studious. 
The  family,  besides  speaking  daily  four  languages  for  the 
practice,  when  at  home  converse  in  ancient  Cireek  at  the 
table.  They  send  you  and  C.  very  kind  remembrances. 

The  j)opular  evening  entertainments  just  now  are  Strauss’s 
orchestra  at  the  Folks  Gfarten,  and  an  occasional  opera  at 
the  Royal  Opera  House.  The  opera  begins  at  seven  and 


^TENNA. 


239 


closes  at  ten  o’clock.  Sensible  hours!  We  have  dined  at 
Count  de  Y.’s,  the  dean  of  the  ministers  in  the  diplomatic 
corps,  at  his  villa  about  an  hour’s  drive  from  the  city.  The 
countess  and  her  daughter  speak  English  perfectly. 

In  another  a])artment  in  the  same  l)nilding  with  us  lives 
the  nnnister  of  the  Argentine  Republic,  South  America. 
Many  mistakes  occur  in  delivering  messages,  maii  matter, 
and  telegrams  to  the  two  American  ministers,  which  can 
only  be  avoided  by  asking  tlie  question  of  the  door-servant, 
“ Is  it  the  North  American  or  South  American  minister  who 
lives  here  ? ” The  kitchens  of  the  two  apartments  face  each 
other  in  the  court,  and  it  happened  one  day  that  the  house 
service  of  the  two  legations  got  a little  mixed ; the  maid 
of  our  house  eloped  with  the  butler  of  the  Argentine 
Republic ! 

There  is  one  peculiar  custom  prevailing  here  that  we  have 
never  met  wdth  eJsewhere  in  our  travels;  tliat  is,  the  pay- 
ment of  ten  kreutzers — equal  to  four  cents — to  the  house- 
porter  for  opening  the  entrance  door  after  ten  o’clock  at 
night,  at  which  hour  the  street-door  is  closed  and  locked. 
This  is  the  porter’s  perquisite.  Two  of  our  servants  do  not 
sleep  in  the  building,  and  when  they  are  detained  by  us  later 
than  ten  o’clock,  we  are  obliged  to  pay  for  their  leaving  our 
door  and  the  entrance  to  their  own ; the  sum  amounts  to 
sixteen  cents.  And  this  occurs  ahnost  nightly.  We  occupy 
the  heJ  etage  of  tlie  building,  and  to  it  from  the  street  is  a 
flight  of  sixty-live  steps.  To  descend  and  ascend  several 
times  in  an  evening  is  no  pastime  for  a servant.  The 
custom  here  is  to  send  a servant  to  accompany  a visitor  to 
the  street-door  to  ])ay  his  exit  in  case  the  hour  for  closing 
the  door  is  passed,  and  also  to  avoid  the  mistake  of  the 
porter  collecting  ten  kreutzers  from  the  out-going  visitor 


240 


FRAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


wlien  it  is  intended  that  he  shall  not  pay,  as  snch  exits  are 
generally  charged  to  the  apartment. 

The  King  and  Queen  of  Grreece  were  in  Vienna  last  week, 
when  yonr  father  had  an  andience  with  the  king ; the  queen 
gave  no  audiences. 

We  expect  to  see  many  more  Americans  here  than  we  saw 
in  Lisbon,  for  Vienna  is  quite  on  the  line  of  continental  toims. 

Vienna,  September  25,  1884.  We  dined  yesterday  vdth 
Prince  R.,  the  fTernian  ambassador,  and  his  wife  at  their  villa, 
six  miles  from  the  city.  They  are  a charming  family,  and 
received  us  most  cordially.  Before  dinner,  their  two  httle 
sons  were  brought  in  and  introduced  to  the  guests ; the 
family  speak  English  tluently. 

Vienna  is  a beautiful  city;  tlie  architecture  of  its  buildings 
is  more  elaborate  and  imposing  than  that  of  Paris.  There 
are  many  magniticent  palaces  here  occupied  by  branches  of 
the  royal  family.  The  Ring  Strasse,  three  miles  in  length, 
which  extends  around  the  old  city,  is  the  principal  avenue, 
and  on  it  are  some  splendid  public  buildings,  many  blocks  of 
elegant  a])artnient  houses,  the  Folks  Glarten,  tlie  Stadt  Park, 
and  other  heautiful  uninclosed  parks  and  gardens.  There  are 
six  parallel  rows  of  large  chestnut-trees  along  this  avenue. 
There  is  a fine  horseback  track  on  one  side  of  it,  a wide  car- 
riage-way and  two  fine  promenades,  besides  the  sidewalks  on 
l)oth  sides.  Also  there  are  long  stretches  of  green  lawns  with 
numerous  settees  l)eneath  the  shade  of  the  noble  trees,  and 
many  fine  cafes  and  enticing  flower-shops  continue  around 
the  entire  circle  of  the  Ring  Strasse.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  enjoyal)le  city  promenades  in  Europe.  The  daily  move- 
ment of  regiments  of  militaiy  through  it  also  adds  much  to 
the  animation. 


\^ENNA. 


241 


There  are  about  one  huiich’ed  American  families  in  the 
city.  They  are  mostly  students  in  medicine  and  music. 
There  are  a dozen  laches  attending  lectures  at  the  hospital. 
I am  told  that  in  this  hospital  are  four  thousand  beds,  and 
that  every  facility  is  offered  to  the  student  for  practice  and 
observation. 

Col.  W.,  the  American  consul-general  at  Vienna,  and  Mrs. 
W.  and  their  two  lovely  young  daughters  are  a most  agree- 
able nucleus  for  many  of  the  Americans.  On  Sunday  evenings 
visitors  are  invited  to  take  part  in  the  singing  of  hymns  at 
their  house,  a service  which  the  family  have  been  accustomed 
to  for  many  years  during  their  residence  abroad.  After  an 
horn*  spent  in  singing,  tea  and  pleasant  conversation  follow. 
Mrs.  W.  is  the  daughter  of  the  late  Bishop  S.  of  Philadelphia. 

Vienna  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  leather- work.  Leather 
is  manipulated  here  in  every  conceivable  way,  and  manufact- 
ured into  countless  useful  and  ornamental  articles.  Excel- 
lent imitations  of  metals  and  fabrics  are  also  made  in 
leather.  There  are  not  elsewhere  in  Europe  such  large 
collections  of  hue  glass  and  porcelain  wares  as  are  found  in 
Vienna.  Bohemian  glass  and  Hungarian  porcelain  are 
highly  prized  in  every  part  of  Europe.  The  finest  Sevi’es 
wares  may  also  be  prmchased  here. 

A complimentary  greeting  is  in  vogue  here  which  1 have 
not  seen  practiced  elsewhere.  On  entering  a shop,  the  shop- 
man ejaculates,  Kiiss  die  Hand,  or,  I kiss  your  hand,  and  on 
leaving  he  repeats  the  same.  The  servants  also  use  the  same 
expression  when  they  come  mto  the  presence  of  the  master 
or  mistress  of  the  house.  Before  retiring  to  their  rooms  at 
night  they  observe  this  salutation.  Hand-kissing  in  the 
morning  is  never  forgotten.  The  coachman  gets  down  from 
the  box  of  the  carriage  to  kiss  the  hand  of  the  master  and 


31 


242 


FRAGMENTAKY  LETTERS. 


mistress,  adtling  a hopeful  word  about  the  weather  if  it  be 
dark  or  rainy.  The  collecting-boy  has  the  same  hand-kissing 
salutation  when  he  is  paid  a-  bill  at  the  door,  and  the  house- 
servants  never  forget  it  when  they  receive  their  monthly 
wages.  The  Kellners^  or  waiters,  at  the  restaurants  always 
liave  a polite  salutation  for  those  frequenting  them. 
Indeed,  as  soon  as  you  enter  Vienna,  you  become  aware 
that  it  is  a place  of  extraordinary  civilities. 


Vienna,  New  Year’s  Evening,  1885.  We  had  the  pleasure 
of  1‘eceiving  to-day  about  sixty  \dsits  from  the  Americans 
sojourning  in  Vienna.  1 am  wondering  how  you  have 
])assed  the  day.  It  is  now  eight  o’clock  in  the  evening 
here — our  New  Year’s  Day — and  visits  are  over,  and  in 
Yonkers  it  is  about  two  in  the  afternoon,  and  your  New 
Year’s  visits  are  just  commencing. 

Christmas  week  passed  very  pleasantly  with  us.  The 
Christmas  tree  co-exists  vdth  the  day  in  this  country. 
Every  Grernian  family  must  have  one.  The  poorest  will 
have  a Christmas  tree,  if  it  be  Imt  a branch  of  evergreen 
decorated  with  a half-dozen  wax  tapers  and  a gay  rihbon. 
At  the  market-places,  corners  of  the  streets,  and  flower- 
shops  evergreens  of  all  sizes  and  at  all  piices  can  be  pur- 
chased. 

Here  Christmas  does  not  always  mean  an  obligation  of 
gifts,  but  rather  an  occasion  for  a reunion  of  family  and 
friends.  Don’t  let  us  abandon  the  Christmas  tree  in  Amer- 
ica, even  it  it  is  a borrowed  idea. 

The  season  of  social  gayeties  has  begun,  and  the  carnival 
is  already  under  way.  The  carnival  here  is  not  what  the 
carnival  is  in  the  southern  countries  of  Europe.  The  cli- 
mate of  the  north  does  not  permit  of  outdoor  demonstra- 


yiEKNA. 


243 


tioiis ; the  entertainments  are  indoor  nieriymakings,  festivi- 
ties, and  costume  and  masked  halls.  The  first  court-hall 
wfill  take  place  January  27th.  Eacli  of  the  ambassadors 
gives  a grand  hall  during  the  season. 

The  winter  climate  in  Vienna  is  by  no  means  semi-tro])- 
ical ; snow  falls  in  considerable  quantities,  Init  it  is  not 
allowed  to  stay  on  the  ground.  Hundreds  of  men,  women, 
and  children  are  set  to  work  to  sweep  it  into  piles  as  soon 
as  it  falls,  and  hundreds  of  wagons  are  employed  to  cany 
it  off. 

There  is  a fine  rink  here  where  skating  is  generally 
indulged  in.  People  of  high  rank  enjoy  the  amusement. 
A few  evenings  ago  a beautiful  skating  fete  by  electric- 
light  was  given.  Twelve  pantomimic  tableaux  were  pre- 
sented on  skates  while  the  orchestra  played  selections 
of  lively  music.  During  the  evening  a red-painted  chariot, 
drawn  by  six  white  horses,  gayly  caparisoned,  repeat- 
edly passed  around  the  outer  circle  of  the  rink.  After 
the  tableaux  dancing  was  introduced  and  beautifully 
executed  upon  skates.  A platform  was  erected  and 
trimmed  with  crimson  velvet  and  gilt  decorations  for  the 
royal  family.  A large  and  brilhantly  illuminated  cafe,  with 
dressing-rooms,  was  arranged  for  tlie  skaters  and  spectators. 
The  price  of  admission  was  six  florins,  equal  to  $2.40.  Ten 
thousand  tickets  were  sold.  The  Viennese  are  accomplished 
skaters.  Old  and  young  enjoy  alike  the  exhilarating  ex- 
ercise. 

On  Saturday  last,  by  invitation  of  Prince  R.,  the  Ger- 
man ambassador,  we  dined  for  the  second  time  with  him ; 
on  this  occasion,  at  his  city  palace,  the  company  was  brill- 
iant and  the  dinner  magnificent.  The  piece,  de  yeaiatance 
was  a wild  boar’s  head  served  on  a large  silver  tray.  Among 


244 


FKAGMENTAEY  LETTEKS. 


the  guests  was  Baron  von  H.,  a gentleman  who  has 
traveled  extensively  and  has  written  many  valuable  works 
on  his  travels  in  foreign  lands.  The  ornamental  service  of 
the  table  was  composed  of  seven  superb  pieces  of  Sevres 
porcelain,  a present  from  the  Emperor  Napoleon.  The 
designs  of  the  service  were  hunting  scenes ; the  porcelain 
was  cream  white,  mounted  upon  a base  of  rich  black  and 
gold  ornamentation.  The  meat  service  was  of  sterhng  sil- 
ver. The  other  courses  were  served  on  rare  and  beautiful 
porcelain.  The  court  being  in  mourning,  the  ladies’  toilets 
were  black,  which  gave  a somewhat  somber  effect  to  the  sur- 
roundings. Thirty  people  seated  around  a table,  and  all 
in  black  dress,  present  ratlier  a solemn  appearance,  hut 
brilliant  illumination  and  bright  flowers  relieved  the  scene. 
Tlie  prince  and  the  princess  are  artists,  and  spend  much  of 
tlieir  leisure  at  their  easels  in  painting  and  ch’awing. 

Vienna,  January  29,  1885.  The  first  court-lmll  took  place- 
in  the  palace  last  evening.  Al)out  two  thousand  people  were 
present.  We  were  presented  to  the  empress  before  the  hall 
l)egan.  The  Empress  of  Austria  is  a charming  woman,  and 
although  she  is  a grandmother,  does  not  appear  to  he  more 
than  thirty  years  of  age.  It  is  said  that  the  Empress  Elizabeth 
is  the  handsomest  reigning  sovereign.  In  figure  she  is  tall, 
graceful,  and  erect.  She  has  the  fresh  coloring  belonging  to 
health,  large  expressive  dark  eyes,  and  magnificent  soft 
l)rown  hair.  In  manner  she  is  affal)le  and  elegant.  As  a 
friend  she  is  sympathetic  and  kind.  The  emperor  is  a man 
of  genial  manners,  and  has  a pleasant  word  for  everybody. 
He  is  a hard-working  man.  I understand  he  rises  at  five 
o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  by  nine  o’clock  he  has  ah’eady 
ended  his  audience  with  his  ministers. 


VIENNA. 


245 


The  empress  is  a most  accomplished  equestrian.  She  has 
in  her  stables  live  hundred  white  horses,  the  greater  nundier 
being  carriage  horses. 

The  empress’s  toilet  at  the  l)all  was  simple  and  yet  rich  and 
beautiful.  It  was  a composition  of  pearl-colored  velvet  and 
satin,  and  jewels  of  rul)ies  and  diamonds.  The  Crown 
Princess  Stephanie  is  a charming  young  woman  of  twenty- 
two  years,  a lovely  Idonde  with  sparkling  blue  eyes  and 
lieautiful  golden-brown  hair.  Her  toilet  was  of  white  satin, 
emliroidered  with  silver  thread.  Her  jewels  were  sappliires 
and  diamonds. 

Tlie  ball-room  is  spacious  and  grand.  It  was  brilhantly 
illuminated  with  a double  row  of  chandeliers,  one  al)Ove  the 
other,  in  which  wei’e  burning  hundreds  of  wax  candles.  At 
one  end  of  the  room  was  a dais,  or  elevated  platform,  richly 
upholstered  witli  crimson  velvet  and  gilt  trimmings,  which 
the  royal  family  occupied.  Opposite  the  platform  was  a bal- 
cony where  Strauss’s  orchestra  of  fifty  musicians,  directed  by 
the  famous  composer,  ])layed  delightful  music.  Ai*ound  the 
room  was  an  elevated  platform  about  ten  feet  wide,  which 
was  filled  vdth  plants  in  lilossom,  and  in  l)eautiful  fohage, 
1 )anked  up  fifteen  feet  high.  The  ladies’  toilets  were  magnifi- 
cent, generally  of  pearl,  white,  and  delicate  rose  colors  ; these 
being  the  empress’s  favorite  colors  the  lathes  observe  her 
majesty’s  preference.  Thei*e  was  a great  variety  and  profusion 
of  magnificent  jewels  displayed  that  evening.  The  young 
ladies  observed  strict  simplicity  in  their  toilets,  which  were 
generally  of  delicate  shades  of  tulle,  witli  only  few  jewels, 
but  lovely  ribbons  and  flowers  for  ornamentation. 

With  so  much  lirilliancy  and  beauty  combined  with  the 
music,  dowers,  and  the  dashing  jewels,  and,  in  addition,  the 
diplomatic  uniform  of  the  different  countries,  richly  embroid- 


246 


FRAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


ered  witli  gold  and  silver  thread,  the  Hungarian  conrt-ch*ess, 
which  is  composed  of  velvet,  fur,  and  precious  stones,  and 
the  Austrian  court  and  military  uniforms, — than  which  none 
can  be  more  brilliant, — it  was  indeed  a fairy  scene,  and  one 
long  to  be  remembered.  Invitations  to  the  court-balls  are 
given  for  nine  o’clock.  The  dancing  begins  at  ten,  and  at  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  before  midnight,  when  the  emperor  and 
empress  leave  the  ball-room,  the  guests  depart  immediately. 

Vienna,  February  6,  1885.  We  chned  at  the  palace  yester- 
day ; there  were  thirty  persons  at  the  table,  including  sev- 
eral members  of  the  diplomatic  corps  and  their  vdves,  the 
ladies  of  honor,  and  members  of  the  emperor’s  cabinet.  The 
emperor  and  empress  were  most  courteous  to  their  guests. 
My  seat  was  the  tim’d  on  the  right  of  the  emperor.  The 
hour  for  the  dinner  was  six  o’clock,  and  at  eight  o’clock 
we  were  again  at  home.  Court  and  diplomatic  dinners  are 
of  short  duration.  To  sit  one  hour  and  a quarter  at  table 
at  a grand  dinner  is  considered  comme  iJ  fan f.  Ten  to  twelve 
courses,  including  coffee,  are  quickly  served,  so  that  no  tune 
is  lost  in  waiting.  Very  little  time  is  devoted  to  conversa- 
tion, and  no  speech-making  or  toast-drinking  is  indulged 
in,  and  the  guests  depart  in  a half-hour  after  dinner,  unless 
a soiree  follows. 

The  winter  is  breaking  up  and  no  one  is  sorry.  The  weather 
has  not  been  very  frosty,  but  disagreeably  cold  and  windy. 
An  Austrian  told  me  the  other  day  that  on  an  average  during 
the  year  there  are  only  forty  days  on  which  there  is  not  a 
stiff  and  sharp  wind,  and  so  far  we  cannot  gainsay  the  infor- 
mation. 


Vienna,  February  18,  1885.  The  second  coiu*t-ball  is  over. 


VIENNA. 


247 


It  was  a liner  fete  and  more  exclusive  in  invitations  than  the 
first  ball.  There  were  seven  hnndred  and  twenty  guests  in 
attendance.  The  grand  entree  in  the  ball-room  took  place  at 
ten  o’clock,  and  after  two  rounds  of  dancing,  supper  was 
announced.  The  tables,  seventy-two  in  all,  were  laid  in  a 
halt-dozen  rooms,  each  table  seating  ten  persons  and  presided 
over  by  some  representative  of  royalty  or  nobility.  The  em- 
press left  the  ball-room  before  the  supper  was  announced  and 
did  not  re-appear.  Supper  being  over,  the  emperor  and  the 
Crown  Princess  Stephanie  led  the  way  to  the  ball-room  when 
the  cotillion  was  danced,  and  at  twelve  o’clock  the  royal 
family  left  the  ball-room  and  the  company  immediately  dis- 
persed. The  floral  decorations  remained  the  same  as  at  the 
first  ball.  I never  saw  such  magnificent  toilets  and  profu- 
sion of  jewels  as  were  there  displayed.  The  Polish,  Bohe- 
mian, Croatian,  and  Hungarian  costumes  of  the  government 
officials  greatly  enhanced  the  attractiveness  of  the  spectacle. 
I saw  ladies  wearing  jeweled  necklaces  of  not  less  than 
seventy  thousand  dollars  in  value,  and  tiaras  of  diamonds 
exceechng  that  sum,  besides  bracelets,  buckles,  and  agraffes 
of  great  beauty  and  cost.  The  bodice  of  one  toilet  was  orna- 
mented around  the  points  with  a dozen  clusters  of  diamonds. 
The  empress’s  toilet  was  of  cream-colored  satin,  embroidered 
with  gold ; her  jewels  were  emeralds  and  diamonds.  The 
crown  princess’s  dress  was  of  rose  satin  and  velvet  of  same 
color,  brocaded  with  gold  thread;  her  jewels  were  pearls  and 
diamonds.  Many  of  the  family  jewels  of  the  Viennese  are  of 
almost  priceless  value,  if  reckoned  by  present  prices.  They 
are,  in  many  cases,  heirlooms  and  tlie  inheritance  of  several 
generations  with  additions  in  each  decade,  so  that  the  original 
cost  of  them  is  not  to  be  compared  vdth  modern  prices.  In 
olden  times  the  diamond  was  not  appreciated  as  in  these  days 


248 


FKAGMENTABY  LETTEKS. 


and  had  not  the  same  value.  Precious  stones  were  then  only 
possessed  hy  the  families  of  royalty  and  of  nobility,  and  the 
demand  for  them  was  quite  limited.  In  earlier  days,  some  of 
the  old  Austrian  and  Hungarian  families  had  great  posses- 
sions, and  they  obtained  every  fine  gem  that  became  nier- 
chantal)le  in  their  countries.  This  is  the  explanation  of  the 
enormous  collection  of  jewels  in  these  countries.  A very 
])retty  and  pleasing  feature  of  the  hall  was  the  distribution 
of  beautiful  bonbonnieres  to  the  guests  when  they  departed 
from  the  ball-room. 


XIV 


Vietnm.  Coffee.s.  Flotver  SJio/r.  Foot-  Waslthuj. 
^lENNA,  March  7,  1885.  This  is  the  time  of  the  year 


tor  “coffees” — especially  a (lerman  custom.  They  are 
largely  in  vogue  vhth  the  Viennese.  The  fashionable  hour 
for  them  is  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  ladies  at- 
tending them  always  bring  their  work-hags.  The  guests  are 
expected  to  arrive  promptly  at  the  lioui*  named  in  the  invi- 
tation. They  remove  their  hats  and  wraps,  and  pass  an 
hour  in  conversation  and  work  until  coffee  is  announced. 
The  guests  are  seated  at  table,  which  is  prettily  laid  with 
choice  china,  l)onhons,  and  flowering  iflants  sprinkled  with 
X)erfinned  water.  A delicious  cup  of  coffee,  a la  Viennoise^ 
vdth  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread,  plain  cakes,  fruit- jellies, 
and  fruit-creams  comprise  the  simple  repast.  Sometimes 
there  are  rearhngs,  which  occupy  an  hour  very  agreeably 
before  the  coffee  is  announced.  Very  soon  after  the  refresh- 
ments have  been  served  the  ladies  separate,  vdth  the  parting 
words,  auf  triederselieii,  or  a a revoir. 

Yesterday  I visited  an  exhibition  of  spring  flowers,  where 
there  were  four  thousand  beautiful  hyacinths  of  every  con- 
ceivable color  and  shade,  besides  hundreds  of  pots  of  lilies 


32 


24Q 


250 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


of  the  valley,  and  as  many  more  of  jonquils  and  crocuses. 
The  pots  containing  the  flowers  were  imbedded  in  soft  green 
moss,  and  arranged  in  a variety  of  forms.  Some  were  placed 
()iie  above  the  other,  to  take  the  sliape  of  pyiumids  ; others 
were  placed  together  to  make  the  form  of  crosses,  crowns, 
(drcles,  and  other  designs.  Each  design  was  composed  of 
flowers  of  the  same  color.  A flower  show  is  held  annually, 
and  is  yjatronized  by  the  royal  family  and  nobility. 

Vienna,  April  2,  1885.  To-day  we  vdtnessed  the  ceremony 
of  “ foot-washing  ” at  the  palace.  This  is  an  old  religious 
custom,  and  hits  continued  from  time  immemorial  ; it  has 
l^een  done  in  Vienna  by  all  the  reigning  sovereigns.  His 
Majesty  Francis  Joseph  has  performed  the  rite  for  thirty- 
six  years.  Tlie  foot-waslung  is  done  in  the  presence  of  the 
court,  the  diplomatic  corps  and  the  nobility,  and  is  attended 
wdth  as  much  pomp  as  any  coiud  ceremony.  It  is  now  only 
ol)served  in  Austria  and  Spain.  It  was  instituted  by  the 
Church  as  an  act  of  humiliation  to  he  performed  by  sover- 
eigns in  the  presence  of  their  subjects,  and  to  inculcate  the 
supremacy  of  the  Church.  This  rite  consists  in  the  emperor 
pouring  a little  water  over  the  right  foot  of  twelve  old  men, 
and  then  wiping  them,  the  empress  doing  the  same  to  twelve 
old  women.  The  empi'ess  l)eing  absent  from  the  city,  con- 
sequently the  old  women  did  not  appear.  The  ceremony 
took  place  at  eleven  o’clock  in  tlie  morning,  in  the  grand 
ceremonial  hall  of  the  palace.  A long  table,  at  which  the 
twelve  old  men  were  to  sit,  was  as  handsomely  laid  as  for  a 
dinner,  near  the  entrance  door.  The  emperor  was  assisted 
by  the  crown  prince  and  several  archdukes.  The  old  people 
are  selecte<l  from  the  poorest  class,  and  of  that  class  the 
oldest  are  chosen. 


VIENNA. 


251 


This  year  the  oldest  man  was  niiiety-tliree  years  old,  two 
were  ninety-two,  and  live  were  eighty-eight  years  of  age, 
and  the  others  younger.  Of  the  women  chosen,  who  did 
not  appear  for  the  reason  already  given,  there  were  eight 
ninety  years  old,  and  all  the  others  much  younger.  Although 
they  were  not  present  they  received  the  same  apportioned 
dinner  and  its  belongings  that  the  men  received.  The  old 
men  were  dressed  in  simple  black,  seventeenth  century  (*os- 
tuine,  and  wore  black  silk  stockings  and  vdde,  tmiied-down 
white  collars.  They  were  led  into  the  room  by  their  rela- 
tives and  friends,  and  were  placed  in  the  seats  by  court 
officials,  the  oldest  ha\dng  the  head  of  the  table,  and  each 
one  having  the  attendance  of  a special  officer,  the  relatives 
and  friends  standing  behind  them.  The  table  was  strewed 
with  rose-leaves,  and  beneath  it  were  placed  brown  linen 
cushions  for  the  feet  of  the  old  men  to  rest  upon. 

At  each  plate  were  a loaf  of  bread,  a napkin,  knife,  wooden 
spoon  and  fork,  a wooden  vase  tilled  with  flowers,  a large 
white  metal  mug  of  wine,  and  a wooden  tankard  of  beer. 
The  emperor,  in  full  uniform,  came,  accompanied  by  his 
coiu't  officials  and  assistants,  and  took  his  place  at  the  head 
of  the  table ; then  followed  twelve  palace  officials,  in  scarlet 
and  gold  uniform,  bearing  black  trays,  each  containing  four 
dishes  of  viands,  and  took  their  places  opposite  the  old  men, 
who  sat  along  one  side  of  the  long  table.  The  emperor 
cleared  the  first  tray  and  placed  its  (hshes  upon  the  table 
before  the  old  man  who  had  the  seat  of  honor.  The  crown 
prince  stood  next  and  served  the  next  old  man  in  turn ; and 
thus  each  of  the  old  men  was  served  in  like  manner  hy  a 
grand  duke  or  some  member  of  the  Austrian  nol)ility.  After 
the  trays  were  emptied,  which  was  ({uickly  done,  the  palace 
guard,  in  full  uniform  and  wearing  tlie  bear-skin  high  fiats. 


252 


FKAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


entered,  l^earing  trays,  on  each  of  which  were  foni*  dishes, 
which  were  placed  l)efore  the  old  men,  as  those  of  the  first 
course,  and  the  third  course  followed  quickly  the  second. 
The  fourth  and  last  course  was  the  dessert,  which  included 
one  dozen  fine  apples,  a large  piece  of  cheese,  a sweet  dish, 
and  a plate  of  shelled  almonds. 

When  the  (hnner  was  ended,  although  not  a morsel  had 
been  eaten,  the  tal)le  was  taken  away,  and  each  old  man  in 
turn  presented  his  riglit  foot,  which  in  the  meantime  had 
l)een  hared  f)y  his  attending  friend.  Then  a large  golden 
tray,  a golden  pitcher,  and  a large  napkin  were  hronglit,  and 
the  emperor  knelt  upon  one  knee,  and  poured  a little  water 
over  the  old  man’s  foot  and  wiped  it,  and  in  the  same 
way  he  washed  and  mped  one  foot  of  the  twelve  old  men. 
He  did  not  rise  to  an  upright  position  until  he  had  concluded 
the  washing,  he  moving  along  the  column  upon  one  knee. 
Tlie  emperor  then  arose  from  his  kneeling  posture,  and  the 
grand  chanil)erlain  x)om‘ed  water  over  his  hands,  which  the 
emperor  wiped  with  a chy  napkin,  and  the  ceremony  was 
finished.  Then  a court  official  hroiiglit  in  a large  black  tray, 
with  twelve  small  black  hags,  vdth  a long  black  cord  attached 
to  each  hag,  containing  thirty  silver  fiorius,  which  the 
emperor  (hsposed  of  hy  placing  a hag  upon  the  neck  of  each 
of  the  old  men.  This  being  done,  tlie  emperor,  accompanied 
ly  his  assistants,  left  the  hall. 

During  the  ceremony  a priest,  with  twenty  assistants, 
intoned  a serffice  and  recitations  from  the  gospels,  describing 
the  washing  of  the  feet  of  the  disciples  hy  Christ.  The  cere- 
mony lasted  a half  horn*.  All  tlie  articles  of  food  and  the 
plates  placed  before  the  old  men,  together  with  the  foot- 
cushions,  were  packed  into  liaskets,  and  sent  to  their 
homes.  Tlie  tankards  and  mugs  liore  appropriate  inscrip- 


VIENNA. 


253 


tioiis  with  the  date  of  the  ceremony.  The  recipients  are 
jiemiitted  to  sell  their  mugs  and  tankards.  The  mugs  are 
sold  for  twenty  llorins  ; the  tankards  for  less.  Each  old 
man  was  escorted  from  tlie  hall  by  a palace  official  and  the 
attemhng  friend. 

The  grand  master  of  ceremonies,  Count  H.,  a Hungarian 
comd,  official,  wore  a magnilicent  Magyar  uniform  of  scarlet 
and  gold,  with  a white  fur-lined  dolman,  and  carried  the 
white  and  gold  staff  of  office.  The  spectators  came  in  plain 
black  morning  dress,  the  ladies  wearing  l)lack  lace  veils 
over  the  head,  and  black  gloves.  Tins  ceremony  once  seen 
can  never  he  forgotten.  The  crown  princess  with  several 
gi*and  duchesses  looked  down  upon  the  scene  from  an  upper 
balcony. 


XV 


Vienna.  The  Stadt  Park.  TJte  Prater. 
lENNA,  April  27,  1885,  Vienna  is  really  lovely  at  this 


writing.  The  pink  and  white  Idossoins  of  the  chestnut- 
trees  are  bursting  into  bloom,  and  the  parks  are  ah*eady  filled 
witli  the  fragrance  of  fiowers.  Our  recent  change  of  residence 
l)i*ings  us  within  two  minutes’  walk  of  the  Cur  Salon  Cafe  in 
the  Stadt  Park,  where  we  go  daily  for  our  morning  coffee. 
Tliis  is  the  finest  park  in  Vienna.  The  cafe  building  is  located 
nearly  in  the  center  of  the  grounds,  and  is  embowered  by 
l)eautiful  fiowering  trees.  This  morning  we  took  our  coffee 
in  a bower  of  rose-buds  just  bm’sting  into  bloom,  and  near 
a beautiful  fountain.  Here  and  there  are  lovely  little  nooks 
slieltered  by  evergreens  and  pretty  shrubbery;  parterres  of 
fiowers  artistically  arranged,  summei-houses,  shaded  pavil- 
ions, and  settees  and  cliairs  are  to  l>e  found  everywhere. 
There  is  also  in  the  park  a large  astronomical  clock,  which 
indicates  the  time  at  the  different  capitals  in  the  world.  The 
Vienna  dial  displays  the  name  of  the  month  and  its  date, 
and  the  name  of  the  day  of  the  week,  also  a barometer  and  a 
thermometer. 

Glenerally  there  are  a thousand  people  in  the  park  from 
five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  until  eight  in  the  evening,  tak- 


254 


THE  CUR  SALON-CAFE,  IN  VIENNA 


VIENNA. 


255 


ing  tlieii-  ahmd  e.ssen,  or  evening  meal.  On  a tine  Sunday 
afternoon  there  will  l>e  at  least  fifteen  Inindred  people 
there. 

T1  le  Prater — Vienna’s  famous  park  and  ])ronienade  — is 
also  in  its  spring-time  beauty.  The  grand  central  avenue, 
the  Nolde  Prater,  as  it  is  named,  is  three  miles  long,  and  is 
as  straiglit  as  an  arrow  and  wdde  enough  for  six  carriages  to 
go  abreast.  On  one  side  of  it  is  a tan-bark  track  for  eques- 
trians, and  also  a broad  sidewalk.  On  the  other  side  is  a 
vdde  avenue  for  pedestrians,  sliaded  by  six  rows  of  tine  old 
chestnut-trees.  Then  there  are  dozens  of  cafes  along  the 
avenue,  where  from  this  time  until  November  may  daily  be 
lieard  tine  orchestral  music.  In  one  of  the  cafes  is  an 
orchestra  of  twenty  young  women.  The  leader,  a pretty 
young  woman,  handles  her  baton  with  as  much  sang-froid 
as  Strauss. 

The  fasiiionable  hours  for  the  afternoon  promenade  are 
from  three  o’clock  until  five  o’clock.  The  evening  prome- 
nade is  from  six  until  eight  o’clock.  The  Crown  Princess 
Stephanie,  accompanied  l>y  a lady  of  honor,  may  be  seen  on 
the  promenade  daily  wlien  in  town ; she  gracefully  returns 
the  salutations  of  the  people  ; and  when  the  little  two-year- 
old  princess  Elizabeth  is  riding  on  the  avenue  slie  throws 
kisses  on  both  sides  of  the  drive  as  she  goes  by  those  who 
recognize  her.  On  a tine  Sunday  a thousand  carriages  may 
l)e  seen  on  the  Prater,  besides  fifty  thousand  people  roam- 
ing around  at  pleasure  through  the  park. 

Tliere  is  another  avenue  in  ttie  park  called  the  Wiu’stel 
Prater,  distinguishable  from  the  Noble  Prater  t)y  the  varied 
amusements  it  affords.  Here  are  to  be  seen  scores  of  cafes 
vdth  fine  orchestral  music,  merry-go-rounds,  fi  ve-cent  shows, 
comic  gymnastic  performances,  bowling  and  shooting  alleys, 


256 


FEAGMENTAKY  LETTEKS. 


May-pole  dancing,  and  jugglers.  There  is  also  an  attractive 
Hnngarian  vine-covered  cafe,  where  there  is  a hand  of  gypsy 
musicians.  In  the  Wnrstel  Prater  on  a fine  Sunday  after- 
noon, fifty  thousand  people  may  he  seen  in  family  groups 
gathered  around  hmclieons  laid  on  the  grass. 

This  park  was  originally  a deer  park  and  hunting-ground, 
the  private  23roperty  of  the  royal  family.  In  1766  the 
Emperor  Joseph  II.  presented  it  to  the  inhahitants  of 
Vienna,  who.  at  once  took  Idndly  to  it,  and  have  made  it  in 
course  of  time  their  owm  “People’s  Park.”  In  all  the  sm*g- 
ing  mass  of  people  in  the  Prater  I have  never  heard  any 
rough  talking,  or  seen  anything  approaching  rudeness.  The 
Austrian  people  are  well-hehaved,  and  seem  never  to  forget 
their  innate  politeness. 

Ahont  the  Folks  CTarten,  wliere  one  hears  Strauss’s  iinap- 
proachable  music,  I need  not  teU  you,  for  you  have  seen  it 
yourself.  Hei'e  one  finds  always  a charming  enterfainment. 
Tlie  opera  season  was  finished  several  weeks  ago,  hut  the 
suhurlEin  cafes,  with  their  fine  music,  offer  an  objective 
point  for  many  a country  drive. 


XVI 


Hungurj).  Budapest. 


UDAPEST,  May  3,  1885.  Tliis  is  our  first  outing  since  we 


came  to  Vienna  last  Septemljer.  We  came  here  to 
attend  tlie  opening  of  the  first  Hungarian  national  exposi- 
tion. From  Vienna  it  is  a five  hours’  ride  hy  rail,  or  twelve 
hours  hy  steamer  on  the  Danuhe  River.  We  have  observed 
extensive  improvements  in  this  city  since  we  were  here 
twelve  years  ago.  Andrassy  Avenue,  a s])lemhd  thorough- 
fare two  miles  long,  has  been  opened  and  improved  in 
ten  years.  On  both  sides  of  it  are  beautiful  villas,  palatial 
residences,  and  fine  pul)lic  buildings. 

Budapest  is  on  the  Danuhe,  and  embraces  the  municipah- 
ties  of  Pest  on  one  side  of  it,  and  Ofen  on  the  opposite  side. 
The  two  cities  were  annexed  in  1873,  since  which  time  the 
greater  nund)er  of  improvements  have  been  made.  Budapest 
is  a city  of  street  cafes.  From  early  morniug  until  midnight 
they  are  patronized.  From  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon 
until  nine  in  the  evening  they  are  enlivened  vdth  music.  The 
Hungarian  music  is  of  the  weird  and  mournful  character ; 
it  is  called  gypsy  music.  It  is  generally  in  the  minor  key 
and  played  vdthout  notes.  At  oru*  hotel  we  have  two  hours 
of  this  music  daily  during  the  time  (hnner  is  served. 


33 


257 


258 


FRAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


The  Jluiigarians  are  a more  stirring  people  than  the 
Austrians.  The  Hungarian  language  is  used,  in  social  and 
hnsiness  relations  more  now  than  formerly.  They  have 
bright  and  keen  faces  which  indicate  great  earnestness  of 
purpose.  The  exposition  is  the  grandest  aifair  that  has 
taken  place  here  since  the  crowning  of  the  king  and  qneen 
twenty  years  ago.  The  nobles,  the  aristocracy,  and  the 
jieasants  are  in  their  best  attire  these  days. 

The  opening  ceremony  occurred  yesterday  in  the  park 
where  the  exposition  is  lieid.  Crown  Prince  Rudolph  read 
the  opening  speech  in  the  Hungarian  language,  standing  on 
the  platform  of  the  royal  parilion.  It  was  adth'essed  to  the 
king,  and  announced  the  object  of  the  exposition  and  its 
importance  to  the  }>eople.  The  king  replied  in  a few  words, 
using  the  same  language,  wishing  much  success  to  the  enter- 
prise, after  which  the  king,  with  the  Princess  Stephanie  on 
his  arm,  followed  by  the  Hungarian  and  Austrian  ministries, 
the  diplomatic  corps,  and  the  nobility,  imide  the  tour  of  the 
principal  Ijuildings.  Opposite  the  royal  pavilion  was  an 
elevated  platform  fnrnished  with  cushioned  cliairs  for  the 
laches  of  the  nobility  and  of  the  diplomatic  corps. 

The  favorite  Hungarian  color  is  vermilion  red ; this  color 
is  worn  tor  gentlemen’s  dress  neckties.  Several  ladies  of  tlie 
diplomatic  corps  wore  toilets  of  that  color,  including  hats 
and  parasols,  in  compliment  to  the  occasion.  All  the  bunt- 
ing decorations  of  the  grounds  were  of  this  color,  which 
made  a striking  and  In-illiant  contrast  with  the  green  foliage 
of  the  trees.  The  Hungarian  nobles  wore  snperl)  costumes 
of  velvets,  furs,  and  gold  embroideries,  richly  ornamented 
with  precious  stones.  1 observed  several  costumes  with 
buttons  of  line  pearls,  turquoises,  carhnncles,  and  emeralds 
set  with  diamonds.  All  the  nobles  wore  upon  their  velvet  or 


BUDAPEST. 


259 


fur  caps  aigrettes  of  feathers  and  })recious  stones.  I saw  an 
aigrette  of  turquoises  and  diamonds  as  large  as  a tea-sancei- ! 
Tlie  costmnes  are  of  every  bright  color. 

Imagine  the  spectacle  of  one  Immlred  of  these  niagniti- 
cent  costnmes  and  several  hundred  more  of  richly  dressed 
military  officers  moffing  about  on  the  fresh  green  grass 
under  a forest  of  trees  in  spring  verdure  ! There  were  also 
hunch’eds  of  ladies  to  be  seen  in  brilliant  toilets,  and  spark- 
ling with  diamonds  in  the  bright  siudight.  The  waving 
white  plumes  on  the  velvet  caps  of  the  aristocracy  added 
not  a little  to  the  beautiful  picture.  The  plain  black  suit  of 
the  American  minister  was  not  left  unmentioned  l)y  the 
newspapers.  I observed  in  a Grerman  joimial  this  morning 
a paragraph  which  stated  that  among  the  different  uniforms 
the  extreme  republican  plainness  of  the  American  minister’s 
di*ess  w^as  conspicuous. 

The  procession,  in  which  there  were  royal  personages, 
foreign  notables,  and  j)ersons  of  nobility,  escorted  by  a tine 
display  of  military,  passed  througli  the  Andrassy  Avenue  to 
the  exposition  grounds.  The  buildings  along  the  avenue 
were  decorated  with  flags,  rich  tapestries,  oriental  fabrics, 
shawls,  velvet  cffaperies,  and  Turkish  carpets  suspended  from 
the  windows  and  balconies. 

Onr  hotel  is  upon  the  Corso  and  faces  the  palace  situated 
on  a high  bluff  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  While  I am 
writing  by  the  balcony  door,  I have  a tine  view  of  the  biillian  t 
illumination  of  the  palace  and  also  of  the  Corso,  the  grand 
promenade  of  Budapest.  This  tine  avenne — the  Corso — 
extends  along  the  river  bank  for  a half  mile  and  is  hke  a 
continnous  cafe,  brilliantly  illnminated,  and  animated  by  the 
music  of  several  bands.  Many  of  the  residents  along  the 
Corso  go  into  the  cafes  to  take  the  after-dinner  cup  of  coffee. 


260 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


There  is  a ball  at  the  palace  this  evening  to  which  youi* 
father  has  gone.  \¥hile  almost  every  house-top  displayed  a 
flag  to-day,  not  a color  was  to  he  seen  on  the  palace.  I am 
told  the  Hungarians  will  not  allow  the  Austrian  flag  to  float 
there,  and  hence  the  king  does  not  permit  the  Hungarian  flag 
to  l)e  placed  on  the  building.  Tit  tor  tat ! 

'’Idle  route  from  Vienna  to  Budapest  is  through  the  valley 
of  the  Danube  Biver,  a rich  agricnltnml  country.  The  diifer- 
ent  grains  are  ah'eady  well  advanced  in  growth,  and  the  fruit- 
trees  are  loaded  with  green  fruit.  The  hlacs  in  this  country 
attain  a luxuriance  and  beauty  that  I have  not  seen  else- 
where. The  lilacs  here  are  of  three  shades — purple,  a dehcate 
peach  blossom,  and  a very  itch  ci'eain- white  color.  Along  the 
route  we  saw  hedges  of  lilacs  resembling  ribbons  of  pimple 
satin  laid  upon  the  grass. 

Tlie  Hungarian  peasant  costume  is  very  picturesque.  The 
women  wear  bright-colored  short  skirts,  reaching  just  below 
their  knees,  black  bochces  vith  white  sleeves,  and  chemi- 
settes, high-topped  lioots,  meeting  their  shuts,  and  bright 
rililions  or  handkerchiefs  arranged  jauntily  upon  then*  heads. 
The  men  wear  coarse  white  home-spun  linen  trousers,  nearly 
as  wide  as  the  women’s  shuts  and  just  long  enough  to  cover 
their  knees,  gayly  colored  open  jackets,  with  bright  cords 
dangling  from  the  front  lapels,  black  felt  broad -brimmed 
hats,  with  a little  lirown  or  green  feather  stuck  in  the  band 
on  one  side,  and  low  shoes  with  large  showy  buckles. 

The  nurse-girls  in  Budapest,  as  in  Vienna,  are  generally 
Croatian  women,  and  their  costume  is  becoming  and  serHce- 
able.  They  wear  short  sldrts  of  bright  colors,  generally  red, 
with  black  bochces  over  white  chemisettes  and  short  flowing 
sleeves,  liigh-topped  boots,  made  of  line  leather,  with  high 
lieels ; their  coilfure  is  a large  double  bow,  made  of  bright 


BUDAl’EST. 


261 


ril:>bon,  eight  or  ten  inches  wide,  having  streamers  extending 
to  the  1)ottoni  of  their  skh*ts.  You  can  imagine  how  l)i‘ight 
and  cheerful  tiie  streets  in  Budapest  look  with  these  pretty 
costumes  thi*onging  them. 

Respecting  tlie  wines  of  Hungary,  1 may  say  that  every- 
body knows  that  the  delicious  Tokay  is  made  in  this  country, 
and  that  the  viii  ordinaire  is  excellent.  There  are  many  vari- 
eties of  good  wines  here,  to  be  had  at  low  prices.  In  the  south 
of  Hungary  the  grape  is  a very  important  product. 

From  a high  point  near  the  palace, — Blocksberg, — live 
miles  distant  is  seen  the  valley  from  which  the  Hnnyadi 
l)itter  water  is  obtained.  This  water  is  exported  to  the 
United  States  in  great  quantities,  and  it  is  also  extensively 
used  in  Europe. 

Pest  was  built  by  the  Bnlgarians  long  before  Ofen,  where 
the  palace  stands,  and  yet  Pest  has  the  appearance  of  a 
modern  town.  It  has  been  taken  and  destroyed  seAmral 
times  l>y  the  Turks,  and  rebuilt  as  many  times  by  its  ovm 
people.  It  was  almost  ruined  again  by  the  terrible  innn- 
dation  of  1838.  In  Ofen  is  the  celebrated  White  Church, 
l)uilt  by  St.  Stex)hen  in  1015.  Pest  and  Ofen  Avere  incorpo- 
rated into  a mnnicipahty  in  1873,  under  the  name  of  Buda- 
pest, since  which  time  great  improvements  have  been  made, 
especially  in  Pest,  AvRich  is  rapidly  becoming  one  of  the 
l)eaiitifnl  cities  of  Europe. 

While  the  better  class  of  Austrians  are  a handsome  people, 
the  Hnngarians  have  stronger  and  more  marked  features. 
Their  complexions  are  dark  as  those  of  Southern  countries, 
while  the  Anstrians  are  of  lighter  complexions,  like  the 
people  of  northern  Europe. 

The  hath-honse  on  the  Margarethen  Insel,  not  tar  from 
Budapest,  is  perhaps  the  finest  public  bathing  building  in 


262 


FRAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


Europe.  It  is  a stone  structure,  surrounded  by  stately  old 
trees  and  beautiful  shrubl)ery  and  flowers.  The  baths, 
twenty  in  all,  are  of  marble.  The  portieres  and  upholstery 
are  of  crimson  velvet.  Ijuxurions  lonnges  and  easy-chairs 
are  found  in  the  corridors  and  on  the  verandas,  inwting  rest 
and  repose  after  the  bath,  beside  charming  little  nooks  with 
fountains  and  flowers,  and  a flue  restaurant,  which  induce 
a longer  tarry  on  the  grounds.  The  building  was  erected 
by  one  of  the  nobles  of  Hungary  and  presented  to  Pest. 


XVII 


Bohemia.  CarJsharl. 


CARLSBAD,  May  24,  1885.  After  a week’s  sojourn  in  Pest 
we  returned  to  Vienna,  and  arranged  oui*  affairs  tor  a 
trip  to  Carlsbad.  From  Vienna  to  this  place  is  a railroad 
ride  of  twelve  hours.  This  was  one  of  the  most  interesting 
journeys  we  have  ever  made,  at  home  or  abroad.  Every 
mile  of  the  way  was  novel  to  us,  and  the  scenery  very 
engaging.  Until  we  reached  tiie  Boliemian  frontier  the 
country  was  a continuity  of  lowland,  stretching  along  the 
valley  of  the  Danul^e;  but  it  was  not  without  many  interest- 
ing features.  We  passed  by  scores  of  neat-looking  little 
farmers’  \dllages,  and  miles  and  miles  of  fruit  orchards.  For 
miles  along  the  route  the  helds  of  ripening  grain  to  be  seen 
in  the  distance  looked  like  measureless  lengths  of  shaded 
green  ribbons  laid  out  upon  the  ground,  without  a fence  or 
hedge  to  mar  the  beautiful  delusion.  Emerging  from  the 
valley,  we  entered  a rough,  moimtainoiis  country,  vdth  great 
forests  of  pine  and  many  small  lakes.  We  soon  recognized 
the  fact  that  we  were  among  the  mountains  of  Bohemia. 

We  saw  many  bands  of  gypsies  encamped,  and  others 
momng  along  the  route.  The  numerous  little  ^dllages  and 
hamlets  were  pictures  of  quiet  rural  scenery.  The  \dllages 


263 


264 


FEAGMENTAKY  LETTEES. 


contain  probably  from  thirty  to  forty  one-story-liigh  white- 
washed houses,  and  a chm’ch,  with  its  spire  rising  above  the 
embowering  trees.  A half-dozen  low  houses  comprise  a 
hamlet  where  there  may  be  seen  a small  church,  or  perhaps 
a shrine  instead.  Each  little  house  seemed  imbedded  in 
rose-bushes  and  clumps  of  fruit-trees.  Along  the  raih*oad 
are  many  shrines  containing  statues  of  the  Holy  Family. 
Here  and  there  in  the  fields,  and  by  the  way-sides  of  the 
country  roads,  small  shrines  are  erected. 

I shoidd  say  that  Bohemia  produces  fruit  enough  for  all 
Europe,  judging  from  the  many  orchards  we  saw.  The 
liighways  are  even  shaded  l>y  apple,  clierry,  and  plum 
trees,  which  are  now  in  full  bloom.  All  along  the  raih-oad 
are  orcliards  with  not  a-  fence  about  them,  nor  is  any  sign 
seen  indicating  “ hands  off.”  The  fruit  here  is  as  plenty  as 
pine  buri's  in  the  Adirondacks.  I don’t  believe  the  nomadic 
Bohemian  pays  much  tor  his  fruit ! 

Bohemia  is  vdldly  pictnrescpie  and  full  of  scenic  surprises 
to  the  ti’aveler.  The  constant  chaiige  of  scenery  from 
mountain  to  valley,  and  high  ledges  of  rocks  suddenly 
a|)pearing,  and  again  Helds  of  “ ril)l)ons  ” of  grain  with  a 
little  hamlet  a|)parently  interspersed  here  and  there,  makes 
an  enchanting  variety  of  landscape.  To  me  it  was  hke 
passing  through  a picture  gallery  with  a constant  change  of 
snl)jects. 

The  women  seem  to  do  most  of  the  farm-work.  We  saw 
only  a few  men  in  the  fields.  In  Europe  tlie  women  and 
chil(h*en  must  do  the  planting  and  cultivating,  and  the 
harvesting  too,  while  the  men  are  engaged  in  military 
S(‘r\dce.  The  grape  is  grown  successfully  in  Bohemia,  and 
tine  vdnes  are  made  tliere. 

Carlsl^ad  is  indike  any  otlier  place  in  the  work!  that  we 


CAELSBAD. 


265 


have  seen  in  all  onr  travels.  Yonr  father  became  quite 
infatnated  with  Carlsbad  when  he  first  visited  it,  and  is 
even  more  enchanted  now.  He  is  delighted  with  the  long 
rambling  walks  over  the  mountains.  Every  one  here  soon 
becomes  a mountain  ranger,  for  the  inducement  to  much 
walking,  as  a part  of  the  scheme  of  cure,  is  most  success- 
fully effected.  The  ascents  of  the  high  peaks  are  made  so 
gradual,  and  the  provision  of  frequent  pavilions  Avith  com- 
fortable seats  where  one  can  take  rest,  that  one  soon  learns 
walking  is  the  thing  to  do.  And,  too,  it  affords  the 
opportunity  of  meeting  friends,  for  nobody  stays  at  home. 
There  are  thirty  miles  of  well-constructed  walks  traversing 
the  mountains  and  valleys  in  the  vicinity  of  Carlsbad,  and 
occasionally  a cafe  where  one  can  take  rest  and  refresh- 
ment. One  meets  here  with  constant  suri)rises  in  the  way 
of  comfortal)le  accommodations  and  charming  entertain- 
ments. 

Carlsl)ad  has  a population  of  20,000  inhalfitants.  It  is 
situated  in  a basin  encircled  by  mountains,  and  has  a rapid 
little  stream  coursing  through  the  valley.  Near  this  stream 
of  sweet  water  are  several  mineral  springs  bursting  out  of 
the  ground  at  intervals  of  one  hnmh'ed  to  two  hunch’ed  feet. 
The  water  of  some  of  these  springs  has  a temperatiu-e  of 
almost  boiling  heat,  while  that  of  the  others  is  tepid.  There 
are  no  cold  mineral  waters  nearer  than  Montoni’s  CTessiil.)ler 
spring,  about  two  hours’  drive  from  Carlsbad.  In  places 
along  the  streets  the  pavements  are  quite  warm  from  the 
hot  waters  bubbling  underneath  them. 

The  most  celebrated  spring,  the  SpnuleJ,  or  Bubbling 
Well,  discharges  a stream  not  less  than  five  inches  in 
diameter,  which  is  nearly  at  a boiling  heat.  The  water  is 
so  hot  that  the  ladies  handle  the  mugs  containing  it  with 


34 


266 


FRAGMENTAKY  LETTERS. 


napkins.  It  can  only  l)e  taken  into  one’s  nioutli  by  sips. 
The  Sprudel  corridor  is  always  tilled  with  steam.  The  hot 
water  of  this  spring  lias  l)een  gushing  from  it  for  hundreds 
of  years,  except  at  the  time  of  the  great  earthquake  in 
Lisbon,  a hundred  and  thirty  years  ago,  when  there  was  a 
partial  sul)sidence.  However,  it  resumed  its  full  force  of 
how  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  days. 

The  Sprudel  was  accidentally  discovered  six  hundred  years 
ago  on  the  occasion  of  a deer-hunt.  The  animal,  being  closely 
followed  by  some  hunters,  leaped  from  a high  ledge  of  rocks 
into  this  boiling  spring,  whicli  was  hidden  by  the  imder- 
brush.  The  dead  deer  was  found,  as  also  was  the  source  of 
the  Sprudel  Spring.  It  is  said  that  the  hunter  who  di’ove  the 
deer  oft  the  rocks  was  Carl  IV.,  lienee  the  derivation  of  the 
name  Carlsbad,  or  Carl  lY.’s  bath.  The  Sprudel  was  a 
resort  for  invalids  long  before  the  site  of  the  town  of  Carls- 
bad was  built  upon.  In  the  early  days  of  its  discovery  the 
noliility  came  from  far  and  near,  and  encamped  near  the 
spring  in  order  to  drink  the  water.  Now  lift}^  thousand 
]>eople  visit  Carlsbad  every  summer.  The  tirst  promenade 
corridor  was  Imilt  in  1718. 

In  a corridor  adjoining  the  Sprudel  corridor  is  a Vienna 
orchestra  of  twenty  musicians,  who  discourse  fine  music 
from  six  until  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning,  during  the  time 
prescribed  for  the  “cures”  to  drink  the  water.  It  was  an  odd 
sight  this  morning  to  see  thousands  of  people  of  all  nation- 
alities, each  with  a glass  or  china  mug  strapped  over  the 
shoulder,  walking  tlu'ough  the  long  corridors  of  the  Sprudel 
Spring,  sipping  the  hot  water,  and  chatting  as  they  strolled, 
or  sat  and  listened  to  the  music,  while  sipping  the  morning 
draught.  An  invalid  is  instructed  by  one  of  the  ]diysicians 
liow  to  take  the  watei-.  The  doctor  first  diagnoses  his  disease, 
and  tells  him  the  cpiantity  of  water  to  be  taken  and  at  what 


THE  SPRUDEL  SPRING  CORRIDOR,  AT  CARLSBAD. 


i 

■'i 


I 


i 

1 


■; 


CA1IL8BAD, 


2G7 


intei’vals.  For  histaiice,  your  fatlier  is  instructed  to  go  fast- 
ing to  the  Sprudel  at  seven  o’clock  in  the  inorning.  He  is  to 
drink  one  cup  of  water,  and  then  to  stroll  twenty  niinntes, 
when  he  is  to  drink  another  cup  and  stroll  again,  and  then 
to  drink  a third  cup  about  eight  o’clock.  Then  we  go  to  the 
Swiss  bakery,  and  get  bread,  or  .civiehaok,  of  a certain  kind 
eaten  by  the  “ cures,”  wliicli  is  handed  to  ns  in  a pink  paper 
l)ag,  and  we  go  thence  to  some  cafe  along  tlie  sidewalk 
to  a garden  where  coffee  or  tea  and  two  lioiled  eggs  can  be 
obtained,  which,  with  onr  nnbnttered  bread,  makes  onr 
breakfast. 

After  an  hour’s  rest  everybody  falls  into  a line  and  starts 
for  a walk  to  the  mountains.  Those  who  are  not  able  to 
walk  can  get  a cart  and  donkey,  the  chiver  walking  by  tlie 
side  of  the  animal,  and  so  the  invalid  is  en<d)led  to  keep 
alongside  of  the  good  walkers.  People  and  doidceys  reach 
the  heights  by  shaded  paths,  resting  every  tew  minutes  until 
they  have  arrived  at  the  top  of  some  high  rocky  cliff,  where 
one  tiiids  a pretty  snmmer-honse  and  a well-conducted  cafe. 
Fine  views  of  the  snrronnding  country  are  seen  through  the 
clearings  made  in  the  intercepting  woods. 

t)ne  o’clock  is  the  hour  for  dinner,  which  yon  may  take 
wherever  you  chance  to  be,  for  there  are  iinmmerable  and 
excellent  restaurants  to  be  found  about  Carlsbad,  with  about 
the  same  bill  of  fare  that  is  provided  at  tlie  hotels.  There  is 
but  little  choice  in  the  cuisine  ; it  is  nearly  the  same  thing  all 
over  Carlsbad,  and  only  embraces  a plain  style  of  cooking. 
In  order  to  insure  the  proper  food  for  the  “ cure,”  his  doctoi- 
will  give  him  a written  hst  of  such  articles  of  food  as  he 
may  eat.  However,  it  matters  very  little  what  yon  may  wish 
to  order,  tor  there  is  only  the  prescribed  menu  to  be  found 
at  the  hotels  and  restaurants.  The  tare  is  good  in  qual- 
ity, plainly  cooked,  hmited  in  variety,  and  ample  enough  in 


268 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


quantity.  After  dinner  another  walk  or  donkey  ride  of  two 
lioiu’s  for  one’s  health  is  taken.  Then  one  may  go  to  some 
garden  cafe,  and  enjoy  an  hour  of  hue  music.  At  seven 
o’clock  a supper  of  cold  meat  and  bread,  vuth  tea  or  a pre- 
scribed ^\dne,  is  allowed.  No  butter  is  served  to  “ ciu’es,” 
except  when  ordered  by  the  physicians.  At  nine  o’clock,  the 
hour  for  retiring,  a glass  of  cooled  Sprudel,  or  the  water  of 
some  other  spring,  is  drank. 

No  exception  is  made  even  for  royalty  in  the  early  morn- 
ing walk  and  taking  the  waters  at  the  springs.  The  King 
and  Queen  of  Holland  are  now  in  Carlsl)ad  and  go  daily  at 
seven  o’clock  to  the  spring  for  their  two  or  three  cups  of 
water.  There  are  a half-dozen  principal  springs  which  vary 
greatly  in  temperature  and  somewhat  in  mineral  quahties. 
At  each  spring  are  six  or  eight  “ dipi)crs  ” — little  girls,  from 
ten  to  twelve  years  old,  tKessed  in  rul)her  aprons — who  fill 
tlie  cups  and  retimi  them  to  the  drinkers.  Thousands  upon 
thousands  of  persons  may  he  seen  at  the  springs  daily  during 
the  morning  hours,  and  it  is  a motley  crowd  as  they  pass 
along  in  line, — the  stout  and  the  thin  iiivahd, — all  with  their 
mugs  in  hand  or  strapped  over  the  shoulders,  for  each  one 
must  wait  Ids  turn  to  get  his  cup  lilled.  There  are  generally 
two  hundred  j)eople  in  line,  or  in  tiie  cu’cle  formed  around 
the  spring.  As  fast  as  the  cups  are  lilled,  the  “cures”  tall 
out  of  line  and  stand  on  one  side  until  they  have  di*ank  their 
portions,  and  others  fall  into  then'  places.  Sometimes  I have 
been  seven  minutes  in  line  moving  slowly  along  to  get  my 
cup  lilled.  As  my  prescription  oidy  calls  for  one  mug  of 
water,  1 have  a half-hour  to  spare,  which  I spend  in  the 
Sprudel  corridor  and  listen  to  the  music. 

All  along  the  banks  of  the  Kiver  Taped  rumnng  through 
the  town,  are  attractive  shops  and  bazars  where  are  for  sale 
all  kinds  of  small  wares  and  Bohemian  glass.  Among  these 


CARLSBAD. 


269 


shops  is  one  called  the  “Yankee  Notion  Shop,”  where  a great 
variety  of  small  American  wares  may  l)e  found.  Some  of 
these  shops  are  no  more  than  five  feet  wide,  and  jnst  deep 
enough  tor  two  people  to  sit  behind  a small  counter,  and  a 
narrow  space  tor  three  or  tour  shoppers  in  front  of  it.  Tlie 
street  running  along  the  river  is  called  Chestnut  Alley ; it  is 
shaded  hy  chestniit-trees  a hundred  years  old,  whose  wide 
reaching-out  l)ranches  overhang  many  street  cafes  which  are 
estal)hshed  under  them  oidy  for  smnnier  occupation. 

We  have  two  very  comfortable  rooms  in  Hotel  Anger  in 
Chestnut  Alley.  We  ])ay  a rent  of  sixty-tive  tlorins  a week 
for  the  rooms,  not  including  board.  Every  visitor  remaining 
more  than  a week  in  Carlsbad  is  recpiired  to  pay  a curt  axe  of 
tifteen  tlorins  tor  repairs  to  walks  and  for  the  music.  A 
liiuidred  years  ago  the  nol)ility  paid  a tax  of  two  tlorins 
weekly,  and  the  i)oorer  class  paid  one  llorin.  The  advance 
in  the  rate  of  taxation  is  not  very  remarkable. 

It  is  customary  here  to  go  in  parties  on  afternoon  walks, 
and  afterward  to  a garden  or  cafe,  where  tlie  ladies,  liaving 
with  them  their  inevdtahle  work-bags,  devote  an  hour  or  two 
to  enil)roidery  or  knitting,  wliile  the  gentlemen  indulge  in  a 
cigar,  all  Ijeing  seated  around  a large  table ; at  half -past  six 
o’clock  the  laigs  are  closed  and  the  members  of  the  party 
leisurely  saunter  along  in  the  middle  of  tlie  streets  to  their 
respective  homes.  In  certain  thoroughfares,  where  the  popu- 
lai*  springs  are,  no  carriages  are  allowed  during  the  early 
morning  houi's  wliich  are  devoted  to  taking  the  waters,  so 
that  the  “ cures  ” have  the  entire  roadway  for  tlieu-  “ consti- 
tutionals.” On  the  other  streets,  where  the  large  cafes  are 
situated,  carriages  are  not  allowed  until  the  morning  cotfee 
has  been  taken. 

Tliere  is  but  little  bathing  recommended  in  the  mineral 
waters  of  Carlsbad  ; indeed,  many  people  are  positively  for- 


270 


FKAGMENTAHY  LETTEES. 


bidden  to  bathe  in  them.  The  especial  medicinal  bath 
recommended  for  nervous  derangement  and  rhenmatic  com- 
plaints is  tlie  mud  bath.  This  bath  is  a mixture  of  clay, 
brought  from  Mariensbad,  and  hot  Sprudel  water.  The  clay 
is  as  black  as  peat,  and  is  largely  composed  of  iron,  sulphm*, 
and  salt.  The  facilities  for  fimiishing  the  mud  bath  are 
very  perfect  here.  A mud  bath  is  certainly  not  as  agreeable 
as  one  of  pure  water,  for  one  has  an  aversion  to  an  immer- 
sion in  dirty  water.  However,  in  many  cases,  it  is  a very 
efficacious  remedy  for  disease.  Car-loads  of  the  clay  are  daily 
brought  to  Carlsbad  dining  the  summer.  Glenerally  sixty 
pounds  of  the  clay  are  mixed  with  hot  Sprudel  water,  to  the 
consistency  of  a thick  batter,  the  mass  having  a temperature 
of  28°  Reaumar.  The  patient  remains  twenty-five  minutes 
in  the  bath.  After  taking  it,  the  attendant  gives  the  patient 
a clean-water  bath.  Not  more  than  a half-dozen  of  these 
baths  are  recommended  to  be  taken  ; one  every  alternate 
day. 

We  have  become  somewhat  accustomed  to  a sight  which 
is  very  novel  to  Americans.  The  erection  of  an  opera-house 
is  in  progress  on  the  lot  adjoining  our  hotel,  and  the  brick 
and  mortar  used  in  constructing  the  building  are  carried  to 
the  masons  by  young  women.  They  cany  the  hods  with  no 
evident  discomfort ; they  ascend  and  descend  the  ladders 
with  as  much  ease  as  men.  I have  noticed  among  them  a 
very  comely  and  bright-faced  girl,  to  whom  the  masons  are 
particularly  gallant,  for  while  they  permit  the  other  women 
to  dump  them  owui  hods,  there  is  always  a mason  ready  to 
dump  hers.  The  gMs  wear  short  gray  skmts  and  sleeveless 
jackets,  long  red  stockings  and  stout  wooden  shoes.  They 
seem  perfectly  happy  in  their  work,  if  I judge  rightly  from 
their  frequent  singing  and  chatting. 


XVIII 


Vienna.  Deparinre  from  fite  Oitjj. 


lENNA,  July  19,  1885.  To-day  is  the  anniversary  of  the 


parting  of  three  years  ago,  when  the  tng-hoat  witli  yon 
and  yonr  brother  C.  aboard  left  the  Gallia,  on  which  yonr 
father  and  I were  starting  for  Lisbon.  I can  still  see  the 
little  tng  plowing  its  way  l)ack  to  the  New  York  dock,  with 
C.  half-way  np  the  mast,  where  he  liad  clambered  that  we 
might  see  him  wave  to  ns  his  bat  once  more,  and  others 
with  nmbrellas  waving  ns  a last  good-bye.  On  the  suc- 
ceeding anniversaries  of  the  day  we  were  in  Lisbon,  and  on 
this,  the  third  one,  we  are  here,  and  still  a long  way  from 


This  is  the  birthday  of  the  old  porter  of  oiu-  house.  He  is 
seventy-four  years  old.  His  good  ndfe  told  me  the  other 
day,  probably  with  a view  to  obtain  a little  poar-boire,  that 
lier  )nann\s  fesf  tan  would  be  to-day.  I said  it  would  be  mine 
also.  She  asked  me  how  many  years  I counted.  1 told  her. 
Last  evening  she  came  into  my  room  radiant  with  delight, 
bringing  a large  cake  all  ablaze  ^vith  many  little  candles.  I 
said:  “Oh,  meine  liehe  fra  a,  I do  not  coniit  so  many  years  as 
are  candles  on  the  cake.”  “ Oh,  yes,”  she  replied,  “ there  is 
not  one  too  many.”  Indeed,  she  had  made  no  miscount. 


home. 


271 


272 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


She  placed  the  blazing  cake  on  my  table,  expressing  many 
good  sentiments  in  my  favor,  and  told  me  to  make  a wish, 
adding,  “ If  every  candle  burns  clean  down,  yon  will  realize 
yonr  wish,  and  yon  will  have  good  luck  before  yon.”  In 
about  three  minutes  all  of  the  candles  burned  to  the  end  of 
their  wicks.  I divided  my  cake  with  the  old  porter,  and 
gave  him  a little  frinJ^-fjeld,  which  he  was  to  share  vdth  his 
good  frau.  It  seems  that  the  old  man  has  the  idea  that  he 
will  die  on  his  birthday,  and  to  add  to  his  conviction  he  had 
an  attack  of  illness  early  this  morning.  However,  in  the 
evening  he  was  at  his  post  again,  with  an  extra  Miss  die 
hand. 

The  time  of  onr  sailing  for  home  is  fixed  for  October  22d, 
in  the  Bremen  steamer  Elbe.  If  your  father  is  relieved  from 
his  duties  at  this  post  by  the  beginning  of  August,  we  can 
carry  out  our  long-cherished  plan  of  going  to  Norway  and 
Sweden.  It  will  he  too  late  to  go  as  far  as  North  Cape,  as 
we  had  purposed  doing,  hut  we  can  make  a short  trip  in  the 
Scandinaman  country. 

Vienna,  August  10,  1885.  Our  affairs  are  all  arranged,  the 
last  ^dsits  made,  and  we  leave  for  Hamburg  on  the  15th  hist. 
(Onr  short  sojourn  at  this  diplomatic  post  has  been  full  of 
interest  and  pleasant  incidents,  and  we  leave  this  heautifnl 
capital  with  many  regrets.  During  the  last  few  years  we 
have  been  three  times  in  Vienna,  and  we  observe  that  many 
improvements  have  been  made  in  the  city  since  we  first 
visited  it.  I think  it  is  by  far  the  most  heautifnl  of  the 
capital  cities  of  Europe,  not  excepting  Paris.  The  interest 
taken  liy  the  Emperor  Francis  Joseph  in  its  affairs  and 
growth  greatly  conduces  to  its  rapid  advancement  in  impor- 
tance and  attractiveness. 


XIX 


Hamburg.  Liibeck.  Niendorf. 


AMBUEG,  August  16,  1885.  We  are  indeed  homeward 


l)ouud ! We  left  Vienna  yesterday,  and  arrived  here 
early  this  evening.  We  are  at  Straits’  Hotel,  where  we  spent 
a tew  days  eu  route  from  Lisbon  to  Vienna.  We  learn  that 
it  is  too  late  in  the  season  to  make  the  Scandinavian  trip. 
The  antnnin  rains  have  already  commenced  at  the  north,  and 
it  would  l)e  folly  for  ns  to  go  there  in  the  rainy  season. 

The  Giermans  love*  flowers.  Here,  as  in  other  Grerman 
cities  and  also  in  Vienna,  the  flower-shops  are  a prominent 
feature  of  the  principal  streets.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
street,  ris-d-r/s  onr  windows,  is  a flower-shoiD  in  which  the 
arrangement  of  flowers  and  plants  is  changed  every  day. 
The  street  is  narrow  at  this  point,  so  that  1 can  count  the 
roses  in  the  floral  pieces.  There  is  a large  street-trade  in 
flowers  in  Hamburg.  The  flower- venders  have  stands  at  the 
hotel  entrances,  and  make  beantifnl  l)onqnets  at  a moment’s 
notice.  The  flower-women  come  to  town  on  foot  early  in 
the  morning  from  the  near  provinces,  oftentimes  a walk  of 
a dozen  miles,  and  are  ready  with  their  fresh  flowers  for  the 
hTitlers  of  the  large  houses,  and  for  the  maids  of  the  smaller 
ones,  who  go  to  the  flower-stands  at  an  early  horn*  in  the 
morning  to  make  their  daily  pimchases. 


35 


273 


274 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


The  tlower-woineii  wear  a peculiar  costume,  and  speak  a 
distinct  dialect,  which  is  quite  unlike  the  Grerman  language. 
They  wear  yellow  wide-hrhnmed  straw  hats  of  the  shape  of 
tea-saucers,  and  large  Alsatian  bows  of  stiff,  hlack  cambric, 
with  Inroad  ends,  on  the  hack  of  their  hats,  short  skirts 
reaching  just  below  their  knees,  Ijlack  bodices,  white 
chemisette,  witli  sliort,  white  sleeves.  They  wear  wooden 
shoes,  long  black  stockings,  and  Inight-colored  garters. 
These  women  cannot  be  called  “pretty  dower-girls,”  for 
they  are  the  old  women  who  are  physically  Tuidtted  by  age 
for  any  hard  work. 

The  nurse-girls  and  house-maids  of  Hamburg  have  a pretty 
and  serviceable  street-costume  of  their  own.  They  wear 
short  skirts,  half-higli  top  boots,  jaunty  lace  caps,  beauti- 
fully emln*oidered  white  aprons,  and  short  puffed  sleeves, 
having  their  arms  l)are  nearly  to  their  shoulders.  The  little 
children  seen  in  the  streets  vdth  l)are  necks,  arms,  and  legs 
look  stout  and  healthy. 

The  most  attractive  objects  in  Hamburg  are  the  ferry- 
l)oats  on  tlie  Alster,  a little  lake  in  the  heart  of  -the  city. 
These  boats  are  gayly  painted  and  move  about  very  rapidly. 
They  sid)stitute  omnibuses  in  this  part  of  the  city.  The 
morning  and  evening  boats  are  packed  with  passengers,  and 
remind  one  very  much  of  the  Brooklyn  and  Jersey  City 
ferry-boats. 

♦ — 

Niendoee,  August  22,  1885.  Here  we  dnd  ourselves  in  a 
very  odd  but  enjoyable  sea-shore  resort  on  the  Baltic 
I8ea.  W e are  passing  a few  days  in  this  out-of-the-way  place 
just  to  see  a little  of  the  hfe  of  a North  (Ternian  bathiug- 
place.  Here  also  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  anchovy  dsheries. 


NIENDOKF. 


275 


We  came  by  way  of  Liibeck,  a very  interesting  town, 
thirty-nine  miles  from  Hambm’g,  where  we  remained  a day 
or  two.  Liibeck  is  a type  of  an  old  (ferman  city  where 
notions  of  modern  architecture  are  not  at  all  accexjted. 
Everything  about  this  part  of  the  coTintry  has  the  appear- 
ance, and  1 might  say  the  odor,  of  oldness.  We  visited  the 
old  ItathhaHa^  or  town  hall,  which  has  been  in  public  use  for 
six  hundred  years.  From  time  to  time  repairs  have  been 
made,  but  we  have  been  told  that  some  of  the  benches  and 
high-backed  chairs  have  not  been  repaired  for  several  hnn- 
di'eds  of  years.  The  interior  wood-work  and  the  furniture 
are  of  oak,  black  with  age.  In  the  assemlhy-room  the 
wainscoting  is  of  oak  four  feet  high  al)ove  tlie  backs  of  the 
benches.  On  it  are  carved  historical  scenes. 

Liibeck  is  situated  just  at  the  month  of  the  River  Trave, 
from  which  ships  and  steamers  going  north  depart  daily. 
Copenhagen  is  only  one  night’s  sail  from  Liibeck.  From 
Lhl)eck  to  Niendorf  is  an  hour’s  ride  by  rail  and  a half-hour 
l)y  omnibus.  I imagine  very  few  American  tourists  seek 
this  curious  place  nestled  between  the  monntains  and  the 
Baltic  Sea.  The  little  village  of  a hundred  houses  stretches 
along  the  shore  for  a distance  of  a mile  and  a halt.  The 
promenade,  called  the  Strand,  is  on  a t)lnff  overlooking  the 
beach,  and  where  one  can  observe  the  leathers  and  enjoy  the 
wide  sea  view.  Here  we  observe  a style  of  architecture, 
tm-nitnre,  and  cuisine  pecnhar  to  this  place,  and  entirely 
different  to  anything  we  have  seen  elsewhere  in  (lermany. 
The  bedrooms  have  no  snx)erllnity  of  furniture — a narrow, 
hard  bed,  a washbowl  of  the  size  of  a quart  basin,  a })itcher 
holding  scarcely  a x)int  of  water,  two  small  chairs,  a looking- 
glass  not  larger  than  a dinner-x^late,  and  Imiig  so  high  on  the 
wall  that  I can  only  get  a glinq)se  of  the  toji  of  my  head. 


276 


FEAGMENTABY  LETTEES. 


However,  this  equipment  is  quite  sufficient  for  one’s  needs. 
There  is  also  a small  towel  with  a loop  by  which  to  hang  it 
on  a nail. 

There  is  no  lack  of  good  provisions  in  this  small  gastliaus. 
Four  meals  a day  are  served, — coffee,  bread  and  butter,  at 
eight  o’clock  in  the  morning;  breakfast  at  10:30,  consisting 
of  boiled  eggs,  raw  ham,  bread,  coffee,  and  milk ; dinner  at 
two  p.  M.,  and  supper  at  7:30  o’clock  in  the  evening,  consist- 
ing of  bread,  coffee  and  tea,  uncooked  ham,  and  raw  sausage. 
The  dinner-tahle  seats  twenty  persons,  and  is  not  more  than 
two  feet  VT.de.  The  meal  is  placed  upon  the  table  and  each 
one  helps  himself. 

The  bathing  here  is  tine ; the  wheeled  bath-houses,  with 
the  occupants,  are  drawn  into  the  water  by  stalwart  men  or 
women,  and  drawn  back  when  the  bath  is  finished. 

The  anchovy  fishing  is  just  at  its  height.  The  men  go  out 
two  or  three  miles  in  small  boats  and  empty  the  seines  which 
have  been  set  there  and  which  they  reset.  On  the  retmn 
of  the  boats,  women  carry  the  anchovies  in  l)askets  to  carts 
drawn  by  oxen  and  driven  by  women  to  Liibeck, — a six-hours’ 
journey  for  an  ox-team, — where  the  fish  are  prepared  tor 
market.  The  anchovies  are  excellent  pan-fish  when  cooked 
fresh  from  the  water. 

In  our  party  is  an  American  lady  who  prides  herseh,  vfith 
good  reason,  on  the  peculiar  Christian  names  of  her  family. 
The  family  name  is  Love,  and  the  Christian  names  of  Beloved 
and  Virtuous  have  been  handed  in  the  family  down  for  gen- 
erations. Her  ovm  name  is  Hubertina.  Her  hrotlier  and 
sister  are  respectively  called  Beloved  Love  and  Virtuous 
Love.  But  what’s  in  a name ! 


XX 


B)  ‘emen.  The  Bath  ha  us  Keller. 


illmann’s  Hotel,  Bremen,  August  30,  1885.  From  tins 


point  we  sail  tor  Soiitliampton  in  the  steamer  Ems. 
From  there  we  go  to  London  for  a few  weeks.  This  will  he 
the  tirst  stage  of  onr  homeward  voyage.  Yesterday  eighty 
people  left  the  hotel  to  sail  for  New  Y"ork  on  the  steamer 
Fulda.  We  are  pleasantly  situated  in  two  cozy  rooms  on  the 
second  hoor,  leading  out  upon  a little  terrace  bordered  mth 
pots  of  flowering  plants  and  covered  with  an  awning,  from 
which  we  have  a view  of  the  park  extending  along  the  river 
opposite  the  hotel.  Yesterday  morning,  the  once -a- week 
orchestral  concert,  from  seven  to  eight  o’clock,  at  the  park, 
awakened  ns.  We  were  ignorant  of  this  custom  and,  of 
course,  greatly  sTirprised  to  see  an  orchestra  of  twenty  musi- 
cians in  the  park  at  this  early  hour.  This  orchestra  plays 
every  morning,  at  the  same  lioiu*,  at  some  one  of  the  hotels, 
for  the  purpose  of  entertaining  the  guests  awaiting  the  sailing 
of  the  steamers  of  the  Bremen  line  for  New  York.  The  hotels 
and  the  North  Grennan  Lloyd  Steamship  Company  shcire 
the  expense  of  these  morning  concerts  with  the  municipality 
of  the  city. 


377 


278 


FKAGMENTARY  LETTERS. 


Bremen  is  a smaller  city  than  Hamburg,  but  more  attract- 
ive as  a place  of  residence.  The  moat  which  surrounded  the 
old  city  in  early  days  has  been  widened,  and  a cmTent  of  water 
now  circulates  through  it  from  the  Weser  River.  The  moat, 
including  the  parks  on  both  sides,  is  called  the  Sfadt-Grahen. 
Upon  both  sides  of  the  moat  is  a variety  of  fine  old  trees, 
and  many  beautiful  fohage  plants  and  flowers.  The  city  has 
extended  in  its  growth  far  outside  the  moat,  where  are  situ- 
ated the  finest  residences.  There  are  many  beautiful  villas 
and  flower-gardens  on  the  streets  along  the  Stadt-Graben. 
Many  of  the  houses  on  this  street  have  glass-inclosed  corri- 
dors on  them  fronts  where  grapes  are  grown.  It  is  a pretty 
sight,  these  corridors  festooned  with  grape-vines  loaded  with 
piuple  and  white  grapes. 

We  have  visited  the  Mathhaus  Keller^  or  town  hall  wine- 
cellar.  It  is  an  historical  and  interesting  old  place.  It  was 
estabhshed  when  the  Rathhaus  was  built,  in  1405,  many 
years  before  the  discovery  of  America.  In  1053  the  city 
authorities  began  to  collect  the  best  wines  of  the  country, 
which  they  stored  in  the  cellar.  There  are  fom’  mammoth 
casks  of  wine  in  the  collection  which  have  not  been  di*awn 
from  in  a hundred  years.  The  largest  of  the  four  contains 
thirty-six  thousand  bottles;  each  of  the  other  three  holds 
thirty  thousand  bottles.  There  are  besides,  in  store,  scores 
of  very  large  casks  of  choice  wunes.  None  but  Rhine  and 
Mosel  wines  are  in  it.  From  a certain  nunil3er  of  the  large 
casks  a few  bottles  are  drawn  on  rare  occasions,  then  the 
casks  are  hlled  up  again  with  old  wine,  to  remain  undis- 
turbed until  another  fitting  occasion  caUs  for  another  draw- 
ing. In  the  Rathhaus  Keller  restam-ant  only  wine,  cold 
meat,  bread,  and  oysters  from  Hehgoland  are  to  be  obtained. 

The  cellar  is  spacious,  and  is  chvided  into  many  compart- 


BEEMEN. 


279 

ments  with  vaulted  roofs.  Tlie  greater  |)art  of  it  is  used  tor 
storing  wine,  only  a small  portion  l)eing  nsed  as  a restaurant. 
In  this  cellar  are  several  historic  chainhers,  in  which  the 
city  council  met  in  days  of  yore.  One  room,  known  as  the 
Suh-Bo.sa  chamher,  is  about  twelve  feet  square,  and  is  with- 
out seats.  On  the  ceiling,  over  the  center  of  the  room,  is  a 
large  red  rose  fonr  feet  in  diameter,  surrounded  vdth  a 
vueatli  of  green  leaves  luade  of  copper,  and  |)ainted  the  nat- 
ural color  tor  rose  and  rose-leaves.  From  time  to  time  this 
copper  rose  is  cleaned,  or  repainted,  to  keep  it  l)right  and 
fresh  in  color.  The  menil)ers  of  the  city  council,  in  olden 
times,  used  to  descend  to  the  Rose  Keller  from  the  conncil 
chamber  al)ove  when  they  had  serious  state  questions  to 
discuss,  which  was  done  standing — the  council-men  never 
allowing  themselves  to  sit  during  the  discussion  in  the  rose 
cellar.  The  deliberations  of  the  council  were  never  to  l)e 
disclosed,  hence  the  term  suh-yoHa. 

There  is  jdso  another  interesting  chamher  in  the  cellar,  a 
room  where  the  conncil  of  twelve  came  to  discuss  cpiestions 
that  must  he  settled  unanimously.  They  sat  around  a small 
table  with  only  one  l:>ottle  of  wine  for  refreshment  for  all, 
where  tliey  were  kept  until  an  agreement  was  arrived  at. 

The  old  cathedral,  or  was  founded  nine  hundred 

years  ago,  and  parts  of  the  original  structure  still  remain. 
Bremen  is  largely  a Protestant  community.  In  the  dom  the 
old  Lutheran  service  is  maintained. 

The  school  hoys  and  girls  here,  as  in  Haml)urg,  wear 
knapsacks  on  their  l)acks,  in  which  they  carry  their  school- 
books, and  canteens  belted  around  their  waists  to  hold  their 
lunch — a piece  of  meat  and  bread.  We  have  not  yet  seen 
any  liegging  or  any  e\ddences  of  s(pialid  poverty  in  Bremen. 

Apropos  to  the  mention  of  the  Rathhaus  Keller,  I wall 


280 


FKAGMENTAKY  LETTERS. 


relate  the  following  story,  which  was  told  to  me  in  Grerman. 
Shakspere  once  said,  according  to  my  historian,  “ Grood 
wine  is  a good  and  sociable  thing,  and  everybody  can  afford 
for  once  to  allow  himself  to  be  inspired  by  it.”  My  story- 
teller continned  by  saying,  “So  probably  thought  the  hero 
of  the  follovdng  story,  as  he  descended  the  steps  leading  to 
Rathhaus  wine  keller  in  Bremen.”  The  story,  as  told  by  the 
hero  himself,  runs  about  as  follows : 

“It  was  ten  o’clock  in  the  evening  when  1 presented  myself 
at  the  door  of  this  famous  vdne-cellar.  ‘A  late  hour  tor 
admittance  to  this  place,’  said  the  porter  at  the  door,  ‘for 
it  is  about  our  closing  time.’  However,  observing  the  name 
of  the  manager  of  the  ^vine-room  on  my  card  of  permit  to 
enter  at  this  horn’,  he  hesitatingly  opened  the  door  a little 
vdder,  and  I went  in,  remarking,  in  the  mean  time,  for  me  it 
is  never  late  l^efore  twelve  o’clock,  and  after  that  horn*  it 
is  early  enough  in  the  day  for  anybody.  The  porter  asked 
it  I expected  any  company,  I replied  no,  and  selecting  one 
of  the  arched  halls  of  the  underground  rooms,  I laid  my  hat 
and  cane  upon  the  table,  with  the  intention  of  caiTying  out 
the  proposition  made  to  myself  to  have  a little  carouse  all 
alone.  With  one  of  the  senator’s  permits  in  my  pocket  I 
had  the  right  to  chink  a glass  from  the  wine  in  the  Twelve 
Apostles’  cellar,  from  the  wine  in  the  Bacchus  cellar,  and 
from  that  in  the  Rose  cellar.  I asked  to  be  conducted  at 
the  porter’s  earliest  convenience  to  the  Bacchus  cellar;  to 
this  the  porter  replied  no,  that  was  impossible.  Said  he, 
‘ To-day  is  the  first  day  of  September,  Dame  Rose’s  anni- 
versary. To-night  the  Twelve  Apostles,  Bacchus,  and  Dame 
Rose  come  down  from  their  stony  seats  and  hold  high  carni- 
val from  midnight  till  the  dawn  of  day.  No  man  would  pre- 
sume to  remain  here  after  midnight.’ 


BEEIIEN. 


281 


“I  laughed  at  the  good  man’s  superstition,  and  replied  that 
I had  heard  of  various  kinds  of  ghosts,  hut  never  had  heard 
of  wine  ghosts.  Then  I peremptorily  said  : ‘ Look  again  at 
my  permit  from  the  senator,  and  in  the  name  of  the  Council 
of  Bremen  I command  you  to  open  the  Bacchus  cellar.’  We 
went  slowly  idong  through  several  large  and  dark  cellars, 
vdth  only  the  light  of  a lantern  to  guide  us,  and  at  last 
reached  the  inner  cellar,  where  a wooden  tigure  of  Bacchus 
sat  astride  upon  an  immense  wine-cask.  ‘ Grood  heavens  ! ’ 
cried  the  old  porter,  ‘ don’t  you  see  how  the  old  fellow  rolls 
his  eyes  and  shakes  his  feet.  He  is  getting  ready  to  come 
down.  Let  us  he  oft.’  ‘ Why,  man,  it  is  only  the  shadow 
of  our  tiickering  candle  that  gives  you  this  impression,’ 
said  I.  We  left  the  cellar,  and  the  porter  locked  the  big  door 
with  nei'vous  celerity,  Init  not  until  I had  had  a glass  of  the 
old  Bacchus  wine  from  the  sample  harrel.  ‘ Here,  old  porter,’ 
said  I,  ‘ take  a glass  at  my  expense ; it  will  give  you  a httle 
courage.’  ‘ God  preserve  me  from  (h*inking  a drop  of  it  this 
night,’  he  exclaimed. 

‘'We  wandered  on  a little  fartlier  l)y  the  dim  light  of  our 
lantern  and  came  to  the  Apostles’  cellar.  The  rusty  lock  of 
the  great  door  gave  an  unearthly  grating  sound  as  the  key 
slowly  turned  in  it.  The  door  opened,  creaking  on  its  hinges, 
and  there  stood  the  statues  of  the  twelve  apostles  in  their 
garl)  of  liewn-out  stone  up  in  the  high  niches  in  the  wall, 
and  beneath  them  twelve  great  casks  of  wine.  ‘ I must  have 
a glass  of  wine  from  this  cellar  to  drink  the  health  of  these 
antiques,’  said  1.  The  porter  fairly  trembled  at  my  light 
remark,  and  said,  ‘ Good  sir,  don’t  you  know  you  are  tempt- 
ing the  devil  ? This  is  the  night  when  all  the  wine  ghosts 
come  down  from  their  places  to  have  their  yearly  carousal. 
It  is  now  nearly  midnight.  I have  never  known  of  a man 


36 


282 


FRAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


sta>diig  here  until  the  stroke  of  twelve.  I must  go,  and  I 
cannot  answer  for  your  safety  if  you  persist  in  remaining 
later.’  ‘ But  you  cannot  go  until  you  have  taken  me  to  the 
Bose  cellar,’  said  1.  We  passed  on  quickly  until  we  came 
into  the  Suh-Eom  cellar.  ‘ What  a monster  cask  of  wine,’ 
said  I,  ‘ and  every  glass  of  it  is  worth  a gold  piece!  ’ I read 
upon  it  the  date  of  1615.  ‘ Fill  me  a glass  from  the  sample 

cask  quickly.  I must  drink  old  Dame  Bose’s  health  before 
the  clock  strikes  twelve,  and  then,  good  porter,  you  can  go, 
and  I w\\]  stay  in  the  Bose  cellar  for  a little  time.’  ‘ Oh,  no ! 
this  is  impossible  ; I should  lose  my  place  were  I to  leave 
the  door  unlocked,’  declared  the  old  man. 

“ 1 followed  in  the  wake  of  the  lantern  and  went  hack  to  the 
place  where  I had  left  my  hat  and  cane.  ‘ But  before  you  go, 
good  man,’  said  I,  ‘ give  me  a few  l)ottles  of  the  vintage  of 
1718.’  Tie  did  as  I requested,  and  said:  ‘I  cannot  leave 
you  all  night  alone  in  the  cellar ; you  will  be  frightened  to 
death  with  the  doings  among  the  ghosts.’  ‘ You  know,’  1 
said,  ‘ I have  permission  to  stay  here,  and  I intend  to  remain. 
So,  good-night,  my  friend,  and  don’t  worry  any  more  about 
me.  Bock  the  door  and  take  the  key  wdth  you,  and  I will 
di*aw  the  inside  bolt.  I want  no  outsiders  to-night.  Leave 
me  a half  dozen  candles.’  He  complied,  and  went  hesitat- 
ingly toward  the  door,  opened  and  closed  it  slowly  to  give 
me  time  to  change  my  intention  if  I mshed  to  do  so.  He 
called  to  me  from  outside  the  door  and  said  : ‘ My  Mend,  I 
am  sure  I shall  hud  you  dead  from  fright  when  I return  at 
six  o’clock  in  the  morning.’  I examined  my  quarters  care- 
fully and  found  no  other  door  than  the  one  through  which 
I had  entered,  and  three  bottles  of  real  Johannes  wine 
marked  1718. 

“ I heard  the  dom  clock  strike  twelve,  and  I had  aBeady 


BEEMEN. 


283 


drank  iiiy  sixth  glass  of  wine,  wlien  the  thought  occurred  to 
me  that  there  was  a time  when  wine  would  go  to  one’s  head, 
and  I was  just  wondering  whether  1 could  drink  all  the  wine 
in  the  three  l)ottles,  when  1 fancied  that  I heard  a heavy 
door  slowly  opening  on  its  rusty  hinges,  and  in  another 
moment  I was  sure  1 heard  the  echoing  sound  of  the  heavy 
tread  of  footsteps.  1 rememhered  that  the  outside  door  was 
locked  and  that  the  porter  had  taken  the  key  mth  him,  and 
that  the  bolt  was  ch*awn  on  the  inside  of  tlie  door  of  the 
room  in  which  I was.  So  I quieted  myself  with  the  thought 
that  there  was  no  admittance  under  any  circumstances  to 
the  room  this  night. 

“At  this  moment,  and  to  my  utter  astonishment,  the  door 
opened  without  being  unlocked  or  imholted,  and  I saw  two 
men  stamUng  in  the  door- way  (h’essed  in  antique  costume, 
saluting  each  other.  They  advanced  slowly  into  the  room, 
and  taking  off  their  swords  and  hats,  hung  them  on  large 
hooks  on  the  wall.  They  then  seated  themselves  at  the 
table  where  I was,  apparently  not  ol)serving  me.  I was 
about  to  speak,  and  make  known  my  presence,  when  four 
more  unbidden  guests  entered  the  door,  saying,  ‘ Good- 
morning, gentlemen  of  the  Rhine ; where  is  the  old  servant 
Johannes?  Is  he  still  sleeping  at  his  post?’  ‘Yes,  he  is 
in  the  clmrch-yard  fast  asleep.  I’ll  just  ring  him  up,’  said 
the  man  nearest  me,  who,  taking  up  a huge  bell,  rang  it  loud 
and  long.  The  simimons  was  quickly  answered  by  a hollow- 
eyed  old  man,  who  appeared  at  tlie  door  yawning  and  rubbing 
his  eyes,  having  a large  basket  tilled  with  bottles  on  his  arm. 
‘Hallo,  old  Johann,  you  are  a sluggard  this  time;  step  along 
a little  more  lively,’  said  the  man  who  had  luiig  the  bell. 
The  old  servant  Johannes,  for  it  was  he  who  answered  the 
summons  of  the  bell,  rephed  that  he  had  forgotten  it  was 


284 


FEAGMENTAEY  LETTEE8. 


the  1st  of  September ; that  since  they  had  paved  anew  the 
chiirch-yard  he  did  not  hear  so  well  what  was  going  on  over 
his  head  as  formerly,  ‘ But,’  said  he,  ‘ where  are  the  rest 
of  you  ? Yon  are  only  six,  and  old  Dame  Rose  is  not  here 
yet.’  ‘ WeU,’  said  the  one  called  Judas,  ‘put  down  the  bottles, 
we  must  wet  our  lips ; give  ns  the  glasses  and  then  go  over 
there,’  ]xhnting  to  the  door,  ‘ and  call  up  the  rest  of  our 
number  who  are  still  sleeping  in  the  wine-harrels.’ 

“At  this  moment  a great  commotion  was  heard  outside  the 
door,  and  old  Johannes  cried  out : ‘ Here  comes  Dame  Rose 
and  her  lover,  the  jolly  old  Bacchus,’  What  a sight ! There 
was  the  wooden  Bacchus,  and  the  mammoth  cask  of  wine 
which  1 had  seen  in  the  Rose  cellar,  and  which  they  called 
Dame  Rose,  followed  closely  by  six  lively  old  fellows  swing- 
ing cocked  hats  in  their  hands.  ‘ At  last  we  are  all  here,’ 
said  one  of  the  party  of  stone  statues,  ‘ and  as  for  Dame 
Rose,  she  looks  just  as  she  did  fifty  years  ago.  But  how  is 
this ; we  are  thirteen  at  the  table.  Who  is  this  stranger 
among  us  ? How  happens  it  that  lie  is  here  ?’ 

“ Aware  that  1 was  an  unbidden  guest  among  them,  I at 
once  hrietiy  explained  my  presence.  1 said  that  I was  sim- 
ply a Doctor  of  Philosophy,  and  that  at  present  1 was  living 
at  the  Hotel  Frankfurt  in  Bremen.  ‘ Ydiat  brought  you  here 
on  this  particular  night,  good  sir  ?’  incpm’ed  another,  ‘You 
know  you  do  not  belong  to  the  noble  society  of  two  hun- 
(h*ed  years  ago.’  ‘ Of  that,’  I replied,  ‘ I am  perfectly  well 
aware,  for  I chd  not  live  two  hundred  years  ago.  Yoim 
noble  selves  have  come  to  me  to-night ; I (hd  not  make  the 
trespass  upon  you.  When  I came  1 found  no  company. 
The  good  porter  locked  the  door  and  took  the  key  with 
him.’  ‘ What,’  asked  Bacchus,  ‘ are  you  doing  in  the 
Rathhaus  Keller  at  this  late  hour  of  the  night  ? The  world’s 


BEEMEN. 


285 


people  in  Bremen  are  never  out  of  their  houses  at  midnight.’ 
‘ Yonr  excellency,’  said  I,  ‘ there  is  good  reason  for  my 
being  here.  I am  a friend  of  good  old  Rhein  wine,  and 
obtained  permission  from  one  of  the  nol)le  senators  to  come 
here  and  get  some  to  my  taste ; and  I chose  tliis  night, 
because  I have  read  some  very  interesting  stories  al)ont  the 
carousal  held  here  on  the  night  of  the  tirst  of  September  by 
some  of  the  distingnished  men  of  tlie  olden  time,  and  I 
desired  to  make  some  scientitic  observations.’  dHa ! ha!’ 
langhed  Bacchus,  ‘that  is  all  well  enough  ; yon  shall  liave  a 
little  dance  witli  ns  to-night.’ 

“ I now  began  to  look  around  me  and  to  observe  the  com- 
pany. There  were  the  stone  statTies  of  the  twelve  apostles 
that  I had  seen  standing  in  their  niches  as  1 passed  through 
the  Apostles’  cellar,  Bacchus  in  his  wooden  body,  and  Dame 
Rose.  Her  body,  a great  vdne-cask,  was  standing  u])on  two 
tiny  little  feet  near  them,  her  coquettish  face  peeping  out 
from  the  upper  end  of  the  cask,  vdth  the  copper  rose  of  the 
Sul)-Rosa  cellar  hanging  on  tlie  front  of  it.  All  were  in  a 
jolly  mood.  They  langhed  and  talked  with  each  other  in 
unearthly  tones.  I judged  from  their  conversation  that  they 
were  accustomed  to  have  a reunion  every  year,  and  that  they 
laid  been  meeting  together  in  this  way  for  two  hundred  years 
or  more.  They  told  stories  over  their  glasses  of  wine,  kept 
continnally  full  by  the  old  servant  Joliaimes.  The  stories 
related  by  them  referred  to  historical  and  social  events  of 
their  times.  ( )ne  told  how  the  members  of  the  old  Bremen 
families  used  to  come  to  the  Rathhaus  Keller  at  five  o’clock 
in  the  afternoon,  grandmothers,  wives  and  children  included, 
and  remain  until  eight  o’clock  at  night,  when  the  cellar 
would  be  closed.  ‘Yes,’  said  Dame  Rose,  ‘those  were  good 
old  times,  when  we  drank  only  pure  Rhein  wines ; we  chthi’t 


286 


FKAGMENTAEY  LETTEES. 


have  this  miserable  vStuff  now  called  tea,  coffee,  and  such 
beverages  as  are  drank  nowadays.’ 

“ The  carousal  was  gettuig  more  hvely,  when  suddenly  a 
new  apparition  made  its  appearance.  All  voices  were  hushed. 
Even  Bacchus  turned  pale.  The  intruder  took  a seat  by  me. 
I whispered  to  a ghost  close  by  me  and  asked  who  this  last 
comer  was.  He  replied,  ‘ Do  you  not  see  it  is  the  dewl  him- 
self i He  always  conies  in  at  our  anniversary  meetings  and 
tries  to  disturb  us.’  A glass  of  wine  was  set  before  him. 
After  several  olden-time  songs  had  been  sung  at  the  request 
of  Dame  Rose,  she  winked  at  me  and  said,  ‘ Now,  doctor,  it 
is  your  timi ; you  must  give  us  a song  which  has  never  been 
sung  before.’  I attempted  to  excuse  myself  on  the  ground 
that  I could  neither  sing  nor  make  verses.  ‘ No  excuses  are 
accepted  here,’  she  said.  ‘ You  have  come  unbidden  to  us 
to-night,  and  you  must  join  us  in  all  we  do.  Come,  sir,  we 
are  waiting  for  you.’  Trembhngly  1 arose,  and  by  some 
happy  inspiration  the  following  words  were  put  into  my 
mouth ; 

“ ‘ On  the  beautiful  Rhine  where  grows  our  vine. 

There  grows  our  golden  luscious  wine; 

Yonder  it  grows  on  our  Gremian  coast. 

And  gives  us  all  the  never-dying  toast, 

Rhein  wine,  Rhein  wine. 

Always  in  tune  and  in  time.’ 

“ The  ghostly  company  laughed  heartily,  and  Bacchus  ex- 
claimed, ‘ What  a noble  addition  the  doctor  will  be  to  our 
choice  spirits  ; \ve  all  hope  that  he  may  join  our  merry  circle 
soon.’  In  my  soul  I could  not  agree  wdth  him,  for  I had 
not  yet  seen  enough  of  life.  But,  under  the  circumstances, 
I did  not  wish  to  discuss  the  subject. 


BKEMEN. 


287 


“ They  now  coiimiencecl  to  arrange  for  a dance.  Bacchus 
was  the  major-domo  of  the  party.  He  called  to  me,  and  said  : 
‘ Of  course,  doctor,  you  know  music.  We  shall  depend 
on  you  to  play  for  us.  Get  up  on  that  cask  of  \wne  and 
beat  the  drum  to  oiu*  dance.’  I obeyed.  A step-ladder  was 
necessary  to  aid  me  in  reaching  the  top  of  the  wine-cask. 
When  seated  my  head  just  touched  the  timbers  forming  the 
ceihng  of  the  arched  room.  AW  was  proceeding  well,  when 
suddenly  I saw  the  heavy  l^eams  over  my  head  part,  and  I 
with  my  drum  dew  hke  an  arrow  out  in  the  open  air.  I said 
to  myself,  ‘ Good-bye,  good-l)ye  to  this  life  ; these  accursed 
ghosts  have  entered  my  name  in  their  death-book.’ 

“ The  drst  sensation  I experienced  afterward  was  the  toucli 
of  the  Rathhaus  Keller  porter  on  my  shoulder.  Hearing  his 
morning  salutation  and  inquiry  respecting  my  welfare,  I 
began  to  rub  my  eyes,  and  getting  up  on  my  feet  I found 
that  I had  become  intoxicated,  and  had  fallen  from  the 
bench  to  the  stone  door.  As  tliere  was  no  evidence  of  my 
having  had  company  in  the  night,  I concluded  that  my 
solitary  carousal  was  only  a dream.  1 could  not  convince 
myself  that  the  stone  statues  had  not  come  down  from  their 
places — so  strong  was  the  impression  on  my  nund  that  the 
night’s  adventure  was  a reality — until  I made  the  round 
of  all  the  cellars  I had  visited  the  night  before,  and  saw  for 
myself  that  the  stone  dgures  were  all  in  their  places.” 


XXI 

London.  Hatfield  Hoia^e. 

Tondon,  Septeml)er  13,  1885.  We  bad  a delightful  voyage 
J of  twenty-eighth  ours  from  Brenieii  to  Southampton  in 
the  steamship  We  came  immediately  li ere.  The  most 

of  our  packages  were  sliipped  for  New  York  from  Hamhm-g 
in  a sailing  vessel.  Tlie  time  taken  by  tlie  modern  large 
steamships  for  crossing  tlie  Atlantic  is  much  less  than  it 
used  to  lie  in  the  slow,  old-fashioned  vessels,  and  we  expect 
to  make  a quick  crossing  in  the  Elhe^  wliich  sails  on  October 
22(1.  We  sliall  occupy  ourselves  till  then  with  visiting  and 
sight-seeing.  Almost  every  day  we  meet  an  old  acquaintance 
whom  we  invite  to  lireakfast  or  dine  vdth  us.  We  are  com- 
fortably situated  at  the  Army  and  Xavy  Hotel,  where  it  is  a 
pleasure  to  receive  friends. 

Last  evening  we  visited  an  exliibition  of  macliinery  called 
the  “ Inventions.”  Although  most  of  the  machines  were  of 
English  manufacture,  Troy  had  no  little  iirominence  in  one 
part  of  the  building,  where  a number  of  red-cheeked  English 
girls  were  operating  a laundering  machine  exhibited  by  a 
Troy  tirm.  The  united  testimony  of  the  guds  was  that  the 
machine  “ operated  beautifully.”  The  l)uildings  andgTOunds 
were  illuminated  by  electric  ligiits  glovdng  in  thousands  of 


288 


LONDON. 


289 


various-colored  globes  and  lanterns.  I never  imagined  sncli 
brilliant  effects  could  be  ])rodnced  artificially.  We  failed  to 
see  the  thousand  interesting  things  in  the  l)uildings,  for  we 
were  entranced  with  the  gardens  and  the  fine  music. 

Godfrey’s  orchestra,  whicli  took  so  prominent  a part  in 
the  musical  jubilee  at  Boston  some  years  ago,  gives  a con- 
cert here  every  night  in  alternation  with  another  fine  band. 
At  ten  o’clock  in  the  evening  bells  are  rung  in  different  parts 
of  tlie  grounds,  which  is  the  signal  for  closing  the  exhibi- 
tion for  the  evening.  There  is  an  underground  passage 
leading  from  the  belt  railway  to  the  grand  entrance  of  the 
“ Inventions.”  This  passage  is  half  a mile  long  and  fifty  feet 
vdde.  It  is  Inllliantly  illuminated  with  electric  lights.  Last 
evening  the  tunnel  was  thronged  with  })eople  going  and 
retnruing  from  the  exliibition. 

While  we  were  quietly  taking  our  supper  in  a restaurant 
near  one  of  the  music-stands  last  night,  I observed  in  a mirror 
opposite  me  several  constellations  of  brilliant  stars  suddenly 
reflected.  At  first  I could  not  imagine  the  cause,  but  a 
moment’s  thought  disclosed  the  fact  that  the  reflection  came 
from  the  nnmerous  electric  lights  distril)uted  about  the 
garden. 

Albert  Hall,  which  stands  in  these  grounds,  an  immense 
l)uilding  witli  its  long  glass  corridor,  appeared  under  the 
electric  illumination  as  it  every  joint  and  beam  was  studded 
with  silver  stars. 

The  Albert  Monument  in  the  center  of  the  groimds  w^as 
])eautifully  festooned  with  red  lights,  and  two  music-kiosks 
were  closely  dotted  with  glovdng  ruby  lights.  A multitude 
of  variously  colored  stars  beamed  in  and  about  the  exhibi- 
tion bTiildings.  The  trunks  and  I)ranches  of  the  great  elms 
gleamed  in  an  intensity  of  color;  the  wmter  of  the  large 


37 


290 


FKAGMENTAHY  LETTEKS. 


foimtaiii  ill  the  center  of  the  grounds,  rising  in  great  jets 
and  falling  in  sheets  of  spray,  was  effiilgently  iridescent.  At 
times  the  wind  would  catch  up  the  sprays  from  the  five 
large  jets  and  send  them  chasing  each  other  for  an  instant, 
then  again  tlie  whole  volume  of  water  would  rise  to  a great 
height  and  fall  into  the  hasin  of  the  fountain  like  so  many 
colored  gems  siiarkling  in  the  strong  fight.  Then  a shifting 
breeze  would  waft  the  waters  upward  in  a sohd  column  of 
colored  crystals  apparently,  and  in  an  instant  they  would 
settle  in  a circle  around  the  fountain  in  iimhrella  form. 
There  was  constant  cliange  of  form  and  color  produced  on 
the  water  gimng  a kaleidoscopic  effect  to  the  fountain  of 
spouting  water.  Tliere  were  fifty  thousand  people  in  attend- 
ance that  evening. 

We  have  been  to  see  the  Billingsgate  fish-market,  where 
at  a restaurant  a well-cooked  fish  dinner  may  lie  had.  Seated 
at  one  of  the  httle  tables  near  a window,  we  looked  directly 
u|oon  the  Thames  River,  and  saw  the  fish-l)oats  delivering 
their  contents  to  the  market-men.  A fish  dinner  at  Billings- 
gate comprises  five  courses  of  fish,  one  course  of  roast  beef, 
l)read,  and  a tankard  of  beer. 

Now  the  sky  is  clear  and  l)lue,  the  air  is  hahny,  and  the 
oft-repeated  assertions  that  London  is  always  enveloped  in 
fog,  and  that  “nasty”  weather  is  continuous,  is  not  to  he 
accepted  too  literally. 

London,  Septemher  14,  1885.  I wrote  you  yesterday 
lulefiy  of  the  “Inventions”  or  machine  exhil3ition.  After 
mailing  my  letter.  Colonel  McM.  called  to  see  us,  and  told  us 
of  the  grand  reception  given  on  tlie  exhibition  grounds  by 
Professor  B.,  the  chief  of  the  staff  of  engineers  in  England. 
He  obtained  the  use  of  the  exhibition  hiiiLhngs  and  gi'ounds 


LONDON. 


291 


for  an  evening  entertaininent.  He  issued  twelve  thousand 
invitations,  and  provided  ample  refreslmients.  Professor  B. 
and  liis  wife,  with  a host  of  friends,  received  the  guests. 
The  entire  electric  capacity  on  tlie  grounds  was  used  to 
illnininate  the  place.  The  two  orchestras  discoursed  their 
best  music,  and  thousands  participated  in  the  dancing.  The 
weather  was  favorable,  and  nothing  happened  to  mar  tiie 
splendor  and  gayety  of  the  scene.  The  entertainment,  it  is 
said,  cost  $25,000.  I know  that  grand  entertainments  are 
given  in  America,  hut  not  many  so  extensively  grand  as  this 
one  was. 

London,  September  22,  1885.  Yonr  welcomed  letter  of 
August  30th  and  the  entertaining  and  beautifully  written 
letters  from  Riette  and  John  were  duly  received.  I was 
pleased  to  hear  about  yoiu*  grandma’s  birthday  party.  In- 
deed it  must  have  been  a most  dehghfnl  event,  especially  to 
her,  siuToimded  as  she  was  on  her  eightieth  bulhday  by 
so  many  of  her  childi’en,  grandchildren,  and  great-grand- 
childi*en. 

Last  Satiu'day  we  went  to  Hatfield  House,  the  country 
seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury,  now  Prime  Minister  of 
England.  It  is  about  an  hour’s  ride  by  rail  from  London. 
The  estate  is  in  the  very  heart  of  Enghind,  and  contains 
twenty  thousand  acres,  twelve  thousand  of  which  are  in 
parks  and  lawns.  There  are  seven  gate-keepers’  lodges  on 
the  grounds.  Fom‘  hundred  people  are  employed  on  the 
estate,  among  whom  are  one  liumh-ed  pensioners,  who 
receive  a small  weekly  gratuity  for  doing  nominal  service. 
The  mansion  is  more  than  three  hundi*ed  years  old.  It 
contains  thirty  guest-chambers,  among  which  are  two  suites 
of  rooms  which  have  been  occupied  at  various  tunes  by 


292 


FKAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


Queen  Victoria  and  tlie  Prince  of  Wales.  Also  there  are 
rooms  which  were  once  occupied  by  Queen  Anne  and  King 
Janies.  There  is  another  apartment,  where  Lord  Beacons- 
field  was  “at  home”  occasionally.  In  Queen  Elizabeth’s 
chamber  are  to  be  seen  many  relics  of  her  time.  The  house 
has  one  hunch'ed  availalde  bedrooms  and  as  many  beds. 
When  the  family  are  at  Hatfield  forty  house-servants  are  on 
duty,  and  sixty  horses  are  kept  in  the  stables.  The  grand- 
mother of  the  present  marquis  was  burned  to  death  about 
fifty  years  ago,  in  one  of  the  wings  of  the  building.  The 
unfortunate  woman  had  retired  to  her  room  tor  the  purpose 
of  writing  invitations  for  a ball,  when  it  is  supxiosed  that 
her  cap  caught  fire,  and  she  was  too  terrified  to  be  able  to 
give  an  alarm.  When  discovered,  she  was  dead. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  estates  in  England.  In  the 
museum  hall  of  the  mansion  may  be  seen  Queen  Ehzabeth’s 
cradle,  and  the  garden-hat  she  wore  at  the  time  she  received 
the  news  of  her  sister  Mary’s  death,  which  made  her  Queen 
of  England.  When  tlie  news  was  brought  to  her  she  was 
seated  under  an  oak-tree,  engaged  in  reading.  The  old  oak 
is  still  ahve.  Among  the  treasures  in  the  museiun  is  a rosary 
of  uncut  diamonds  as  large  as  filberts,  and  many  other  gems 
of  priceless  value,  because  of  their  historic  associations. 
Many  objects  of  interest  are  to  lie  seen  at  Hatfield,  of  which 
I have  not  time  now  to  tell  you. 

London,  September  24,  1885.  We  have  Hsited  the  Kew 
Gardens,  making  the  trip  liy  river  steamer,  a distance  of 
about  one  hour  and  a halt  from  Westminster  Bridge.  There 
are  two  huncLed  and  fifty  acres  in  these  gardens,  beautifully 
laid  out  in  lawns,  parterres  of  flowers,  and  small  artificial 
lakes.  There  are  several  large  conservatories  of  exotics,  in 


LOISTDON. 


293 


wliicli  I saw  some  fine  specimens  of  the  pitcher-plant,  which 
grows  in  great  ahnndance  on  the  borders  of  some  of  the 
Adirondack  lakes.  It  is  named  the  American  water-lily. 

I Iiave  also  had  a glimpse  of  the  Kensington  Gardens,  but 
I found  my  two  and  a half  hours  permitted  me  only  a hur- 
ried glance  at  the  East  Indian  galleries  and  the  rooms  of  the 
Kensington  home  art-work.  How  many  women  of  our  land 
would  he  glad  to  inspect  these  rooms,  with  their  treasures  of 
female  ingenuity — to  see  the  fine  painting  on  fahrics,  the 
richly  colored  embroideries  on  the  most  delicate  textures, 
and  the  curious  inventions  and  devices  to  beautify  homes 
with  small  outlays  of  money. 


XXII 


Stratford-on-Avon.  Shotterij. 


>NDON,  October  1,  1885.  Your  letter  from  Robinlawn 


found  us  engaged  in  a round  of  sight-seeing  and  visits 
about  this  great  city  of  the  world.  And  also  a letter  from 
Spring  Villa  was  received  at  the  same  time,  telhng  us  of  the 
new  house  and  other  improvements.  It  will  be  a pleasm'e  to 
us  to  find  both  families  nicely  located  in  their  new  houses. 


STKATFOED-ON-AVON,  October,  1885.  We  have  visited  the 
renowned  birthplace  of  Shakspere.  It  is  a joimiey  of 
tlmee  hoims  by  rail  from  London.  There  were  extensive 
parks,  clumps  of  venerable  oaks  and  elms,  picturesque  old 
water-mills,  quaint  old  villages  with  their  gray  stone  churches, 
little  old-time  thatched-roofed  cottages  with  their  moss- 
covered  walls,  and  much  more  of  England’s  beautiful  scenery 
which  appeared  before  us  in  panoramic  view  as  we  passed 
along  through  the  country. 

We  took  lodgings  for  one  night  in  the  Shakspere  Inn, 
the  identical  tavern  where  the  poet  went  daily  for  his  cup  of 
sack.  Time  has,  however,  made  its  ravages  in  the  old  build- 
ing. There  have  been  some  additions  made  to  the  old  inn, 
but  in  the  general  arrangement  of  the  rooms  we  are  told  no 


STEATFOED-ON-AVON. 


295 


change  has  taken  place.  All  the  rooms  are  named  from  the 
poet’s  plays,  eacli  rooia  having  its  name  painted  in  l)lack 
letters  over  the  doors.  My  room  was  the  Romeo  and  Jnhet 
chamber;  yonr  father’s,  Tinion  of  Athens;  Mrs.  McM.,  a 
friend  from  London,  who  went  with  ns,  was  lodged  in  All’s 
Well  that  Ends  Well;  another  friend,  Mr.  T.,  occnpied  the 
King  Tjear  chamber.  The  colfee-room  is  called  As  Yon  Like 
It ; the  family  sitting-room  is  named  the  Merry  Wives  of 
Windsor ; the  tap-room  has  over  the  door,  in  Idack  letters. 
Measure  for  Measure.  One  l^ech'ooni  is  named  the  Desde- 
mona  chamher,  and  so  on,  until  the  forty  rooms  of  the 
house  are  all  designated. 

If  we  believe  what  is  told  us,  the  old  house  is  still  con- 
ducted as  it  was  in  the  great  poet’s  time.  The  bedrooms 
remain  unchanged  in  size,  and,  judging  from  the  appearance 
of  the  furniture  in  the  bedroom  I occupied,  there  has  I>een 
hut  little  change  in  it.  I am  sure  a modern  toilet  of  a lady 
could  not  be  made  in  one  of  these  small  hech'ooms.  The 
window-panes  are  five  by  six  inches,  and  are  set  in  very 
heavy  sash.  Everything  about  the  hoiise  is  marked  by 
antiquity. 

Our  Mend,  Mrs.  McM.,  is  said  to  he  well  read  in  English 
history.  She  is  certainly  well  informed  respecting  the  history 
of  Shakspere  and  his  times.  Om*  Mtty  Scotchman,  Mr.  T., 
is  not  less  versed  in  Shaksperian  lore.  W e visited  the  house 
in  which  the  immortal  poet  was  born.  The  old  servant  there 
informed  us  that  it  “ looks  just  as  it  did  when  baby  Wilham 
lay  there  in  his  cradle.”  The  house  is  ]iow  used  as  a museum 
of  Shakspere’s  relics.  We  went  to  the  church  where  the 
poet  was  baptized.  On  one  of  the  pews  is  a metal  plate  on 
which  is  engraved  the  name  of  the  poet’s  father. 

We  also  visited  Shottery,  the  httle  farm-house  in  wliich 


296 


FRAGMENTAEY  LETTERS. 


Ann  Hathaway’s  parents  lived,  about  a mile  and  a half  from 
the  village,  and  where  the  yonng  poet,  nnsuspecting  his 
fntnre  renown,  made  freqnent  excursions  to  pay  court  to  his 
Mistress  Ann,  whom  he  mamed ; his  sweetheart  being  his 
senior  by  several  years.  A descendant  of  the  Hathaway 
family — an  old  lady,  far  along  in  her  seventies — occupies 
the  old  house.  She  called  our  attention  to  the  well,  the  iden- 
tical one  from  which  the  family  drew  water  in  olden  times. 
“ The  well-sweep  was  renewed  about  a hundred  years  ago,” 
said  the  old  lady.  She  showed  us  a few  pieces  of  old  delf 
which  was  used  by  the  family  in  the  days  when  William  was 
accustomed  often  to  sup  there.  In  reply  to  the  question  if 
one  or  two  of  these  articles  could  be  bought,  the  good  old 
lady  said,  “Not  for  any  money.”  We  sat  upon  tlie  same 
settle  in  the  chimney-corner  on  which,  it  is  related,  the 
young  poet  and  Mistress  Ann  sat  many  a time,  and  where 
he  composed  the  following  sonnet : 

“ Would  you  be  taught,  ye  feathered  throng. 

With  love’s  sweet  notes  to  grace  your  song, 

To  pierce  the  lieart  with  thrilling  lay! 

Listen  to  mine  Ann  Hathaway; 

She  hath  a way  to  sing  so  clear, 

Plioel)US  might  wond’ring  stop  to  hear; 

To  melt  the  sad,  make  blithe  the  gay. 

And  nature  charm,  Ann  hath  a way; 

She  hath  a will. 

She  hath  a way, 

To  l)reathe  delight,  Ann  Hathaway.” 

I can  accept  the  age  of  the  old  bench,  for  it  has  been 
strengthened  on  all  sides  l )y  l)ands  of  Aon,  and  the  back  legs 
are  kept  in  place  l)y  a couple  of  thick  hickory  blocks. 


XXIII 


' Ramsfjate.  London.  WindHor  Ca.'^tle. 

•NDON,  October  14,  1885.  One  week  from  to-morrow  we 


shall  sail  for  America.  In  the  three  and  a hah'  years  of 
onr  absence  from  home  I have  had  no  time  to  indnlge  in  nial 
de  pa  I/s.,  until  now,  within  a few  days  of  home  and  friends,  I 
am  experiencing  my  first  home-sickness. 

We  have  been  to  Ramsgate  for  a couple  of  days.  This  is 
a delightfnl  sea-shore  resort  for  Londoners,  one  hundred 
miles  away  from  the  city’s  fog  and  smoke.  The  Granville  is 
a magnificent  hotel  and  outrivals  many  of  our  fine  Ameiican 
simimer  hotels.  We  have  before  ns  a broad  expanse  of  ocean 
view,  and  enjoy  the  sweet  and  bahny  atmosphere.  Here 
excellent  oysters  and  fish  are  served  in  all  styles  to  please 
the  most  fastichous  palate. 

We,  with  several  other  people,  are  the  guests  of  Colonel 
and  Mrs.  McM.  of  London.  Our  host.  Colonel  McM.,  now  and 
then  makes  an  inimitable  salad  with  the  aid  of  each  guest  at 
the  table.  Om*  hostess  calls  it  an  “ amalgamation  salad.” 
There  must  be  eight  persons  at  table,  as  there  are  eight  differ- 
ent articles  used.  To  each  one  is  given  a component  part  of 
the  salad  to  prepare.  The  ingredients  are  boiled  salt  codfish, 
boiled  potatoes,  fried  bacon,  cooked  beets,  a delicate  prepara- 


38 


297 


298 


FEAGMENTAKY  LETTERS. 


tion  of  uncooked  onion,  hard-boiled  eggs,  water-cresses,  and 
mayonnaise  sauce.  Each  guest  receives  on  a plate  one  of  the 
articles  to  be  used  in  the  salad,  which  is  to  be  cut  in  small 
pieces.  To  the  hostess  is  given  the  mayonnaise  sauce  to  make. 
When  all  is  ready  the  plates  are  sent  to  the  host,  who  puts 
the  ingredients  into  the  salad-l)owl  and  mixes  them  well 
together,  and  it  is  ready  to  be  served.  This  novel  manner  of 
making  a salad  is  likely  to  lead  to  a general  conversation  on 
the  art  of  cooking.  On  this  occasion  some  valuable  hints 
on  the  subject  of  cookery  were  introduced,  and  also  several 
practical  experiences  related,  which  afforded  to  the  guests  no 
little  entertainment  as  well  as  much  information. 

Ramsgate  is  a desiral)le  resort  for  its  fine  sea-bathing. 
Here  every  known  kind  of  a sea-bath  may  be  taken.  Sea- 
weed baths  are  recommended  for  general  debility.  This 
Ijath  is  prepared  with  fresh  sea- weed  of  a ])eculiar  quality, 
which  is  found  on  the  rocks  near  Ramsgate,  and  sea-water. 
The  bath  may  be  taken  cold  or  warm. 

Among  the  pleasant  reunions  with  friends  from  the  conti- 
nent was  that  on  the  occasion  of  a delightful  lunch  party 
given  l)y  Mrs.  P.,  the  vfife  of  the  English  minister  at  Lisbon, 
who  is  spending  a few  weeks  in  London.  The  wife  of  the 
Swe(hsh  minister  at  the  same  com*t.  Countess  S.,  and  other 
charming  people  attended  it.  We  enjoyed  another  agreeable 
reunion  vfith  Lisbon  friends,  Mr.  B.,  the  English  consul  at 
Lisbon,  and  his  wife,  who  dined  witli  us  at  our  hotel.  I had 
also  the  pleasure  of  having  Lady  H.,  of  London,  of  whom  I 
wrote  you  last  summer  at  Cintra,  where  she  spent  some 
time  mth  friends,  lunch  vfith  me.  We  have  also  received  a 
visit  fi*oni  Mr.  T.,  who  has  been  prime  minister  of  Glreece 
for  many  years.  You  will  remend)er  Miss  T.,  liis  sister,  as 
an  acquaintance  at  Athens,  when  you  were  with  us  there. 


LONDON. 


299 


Mr.  T.  sends  kind  renien durances  to  yon  and  yonr  l)i*otlier 
C.  ; also  Mr.  Gr.,  tlie  (Ireek  cJhariie  (V affaires  at  London, 
desires  to  be  remenil)ered  to  yon  mid  C. 

We  visited  tlie  other  day,  for  the  tirst  time,  Windsor  Cas- 
tle, an  hour’s  ride  liy  rail  fi‘oni  London.  We  were  sliown 
tlie  state  apartments.  Queen  Victoria’s  drawing  and  dining 
rooms,  and  the  chambers  just  made  ready  for  the  Princess 
Beatrice  and  Prince  Henry  of  Battenbnrg.  The  latter  suite 
of  rooms  is  called  the  “ bridal  apartment,”  and  it  is  always 
given  to  the  last  married  couple  of  the  royal  family.  Noth- 
ing more  cozy  and  comfortalile  can  be  imagined  than  this 
beautiful  apartment.  The  sitting-room  is  warm-1  ooldiig  and 
cheerful  in  crimson  velvet  and  gold  decorations.  The  lovely 
little  morning-room  is  prettily  fitted  with  pink  and  white 
satin  decorations.  The  stately  bed-chamber  is  upholstered 
in  blue  satin,  with  silver  cord  and  tassel  trimmings.  The 
pretty  little  di'essing-rooms  have  pink  and  blue  satin  chape- 
ries.  The  baths  are  niarhle.  From  the  windows  looking 
eastward  are  seen  vistas  of  stately  old  elms,  and  \wde 
stretches  of  green  lamis,  with  here  and  there  beds  of  bright 
dowers ; and  beyond  one  sees  the  noble  forests  of  Windsor 
Park,  with  countless  sheep  grazing  quietly  on  its  l)orders. 

The  castle  covers  twenty-two  acres.  It  is,  ])erhaps,  the 
largest  stone  palace  in  Eiu'ope.  When  the  queen  is  at  Wind- 
sor, four  hundred  servants,  inclnding  three  de  (■ii/.sine, 
are  employed.  Each  chief  cook  has  liis  own  kitchen  and 
assistants. 

One  of  the  finest  collections  of  Sevres  and  antique  ]>orce- 
lain  in  the  world  is  to  be  seen  at  Windsor  Castle.  It  is 
arranged  in  large  ebony  cabinets,  lined  with  cream-colored 
satin.  There  are  forty-five  of  these  calhnets  in  the  differ- 
ent drawing-rooms  and  in  the  portrait  gallery.  The  queen’s 


300 


FEAGMENTAKY  LETTEES, 


drawing-rooms — four  in  all — have  cabinets  of  choice  por- 
celain along  the  four  sides  of  their  walls.  We  were  shown 
the  china  pantry.  This  is  a large  room,  with  shelves  from 
floor  to  ceiling,  filled  with  rich  and  costly  old  and  new 
china,  much  of  which  is  in  disuse,  the  modern  cliina  largely 
substituting  the  antique.  Of  the  porcelain  in  use  there  are 
ten  services  of  rich  Sevres,  each  of  which  is  sufficient  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  covers. 

In  the  hanqueting-hall,  adjoining  the  queen’s  apartments, 
is  a punch-howl  made  of  thirteen  thousand  ounces  of  pure 
silver  and  heavily  plated  inside  and  outside  with  gold.  This 
punch-bowl  has  been  used  only  once,  and  that  was  on  the 
day  when  the  Prince  of  Wales  was  one  year  old.  We  spent 
five  hours  wandering  through  this  famous  old  castle. 

I must  not  forget  to  mention  that  among  the  several 
pianos  we  saw  at  the  castle,  one  was  a “ Chickering,”  of 
American  manufacture. 

London,  Octol)er  19,  1885.  In  three  days  more  we  shall  be 
on  board  the  Elite  out  at  sea,  plowing  orm  way  through  the 
deep  waters,  homeward  bound.  We  shall  go  to  Liverpool 
to-morrow,  when  we  shall  have  a day  to  spend  in  looking 
about  that  gi’eat  commercial  city.  1 will  send  you,  by  the 
outgoing  mail  to-morrow,  a few  lines. 

In  his  great  mercy,  may  Grod  bless  us  all  and  keep  us  in 
health  to  meet  one  another  again  in  a few  days  at  home. 


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